big F

One of my clears was all yellow like that, it was an eBay purchase, so I thought it was a contender for paint. When it arrived a soak in a warm bowl of fabric cleaner, bit of a scrub and a dry in the sun and as good as new. I can only assume the yellowness was down to dust accumulation mixed with a bit of tobacco tar and teenaged bedroom. Has me wondering how many of my standard green/black consoles are actually dirty without looking that way. usually when they arrive they get opened to pull the clock cap and a general check over then into the cupboard for another day. When I bring them into service is the only real time they get a clean. Phat 360’s are easy if they look dirty, then they are, often as dirty on the inside as out.

A lot of auto paint suppliers can mix from catalogs and supply in a spray can, cost is slightly higher than off the shelf rattle cans but you get exactly what you want.

They do look nice, stand by what I said earlier in this thread, it escapes me why MS never did this with the clears as a special edition variant.

Well essentially you could do that or probably easier just get some 1mm steel sheet, copper will also do it, if you cant find steel sheet. Then cut out a new one. You can paint it etc as long as its bear metal where the screws attach it to the case and the boards grounds it should be ok. That said if you want to experiment with the minimalist ground shielding you can use coper tape and place it on the board over areas where the video chip connections are and any cnnected path ways on the underside of the board. As long as the tape has a connection to the boards ground it should work. Just avoid taping on through hole solder points as they can perforate the take and creat an unwanted circuit. I used to do this with old video units and signal converters as the ground shielding on them is usually rubbish. Solder a wire tail on to each and either link them together or tap to a near ground.

Kynar wire is the best option. It’s cheap and designed to do the job.

Was planning to make a minimalist bottom shield, to get round this for some boxes, just not done it yet. That said I only run two with completely no shield at all and they work fine.

This needs a thread of its own. The ticking time bomb of capacitor failure is going to start being a thing soon for the OG, just as it has for all my 80’s and 90’s consoles and computers. Im not sure where but I read that modern capacitors have a better tolerance than the crap they fitted in the older day. So the general quality stuff is now as good as the top end stuff was back when the 80-90’s stuff was made, considering the manufacturers would only use cheap or middle of the road stuff, replacement should tighten up timings etc and make consoles better.

and before that we had the 160Gb limit on hard-drives. 160gb seems so tiny now

Anything that opens up the OG more is good in my book.

There’s lots on YouTube about it. I have not made any casts for a few years now but it’s not massively difficult, and something I want to get back into at some point.

Pour cast resin would be the best option for the buttons but that requires a master to then make silicon molds from. Then making new ones is just a matter of mixing a batch of resin and pouring them. Granted to get a really pro job you need a vacuum pot to get the bubbles out of the mix, but there are a few resins out there that are better for bubbles and if you mix slowly, you can get away with not needing a vac pot. How ever there is a mould option in Cura, never used it myself but it can turn you STL into a mould which you could then pour rubberised resin in. So many options to investigate

I used to work for an engineering company, they used to make mould tooling, the real cheap simple tools were @ £10k Something that simply pressed metal into a shape or stamped a panel, could still be a couple of grand upwards. injection mouldings are precision made and usually you meed more than one set, plus they need maintenance and wear out. Eleflex made the OG cases and they had a whole devision that just made plastic injection mouldings, for various clients. Some where out there they'll have at least one example of the tooling archived, as thats the kinda thing they would do, can be used as an example for prospective clients and a history thing for them.

Cant really remember a time when I used any of the switch off chip features on any of my OG’s. The only switches I ever use are the bank switxhes. Last time I probably really used it was when my first OG was still not banned on live. Once it got banned I just bought a new xbox and kept it standard, for live. I still wire all the switches when I build a console just because.

It’s good to know that others are developing things for the OG. more competition creates more products and also promotes different thinking.

Having had another look I think you are correct its in that area for sure. Print colour may also have an influence.

Not got anything worth showing here but this post gives you an idea of what can be made. Its not far off that factory finish and with a bit of paint looks fairly good. I think 01/10 is the nearest to OEM

You have essentially done what I suggested but in a different way. End result however works, so great that you got it softmodded.

I did play with an experimental setting in my slicer programme that gives you a fizzy outer layer. Its not quite the same as the finish on the OG but similar, a bit of fine tuning or post print work could make it more so.

Not 100% on this, as was not even aware you could do this with a nano. It sounds a bit like file permissions, the NT file system which fatx is based on can be a bit picky. What you could try is make a real splintershell save by playing the game enough to get to a save point. Then on your computer delete all the files in side the save, not the folders just the files then from your hacked save copy all the contents into their respective folders. Pop that into the XBox and see if it likes it. He folders will grant the implied permissions on your transplanted files.

Once you make the first, assuming you 3D print it a clean up of the print and then take silicone mould of it you could cast them, would be very much cheaper than commissioning injection tooling and having them produced as a short run commercial job. Resin casting can be cast clear and coloured to match existing parts. PCB’s as we all know can be made by the likes of PCBWay, as long as they are 10cm x 10cm or less the charge is not that massive.

You could have damaged the traces with too much heat during de-soldering. Its a common mistake when new to the task. To be fair I have damaged a board or two doing it and I have literal decades of experience. That said most things can be fixed. My advise to you get hold of some junk electronics, old appliances are a great source. Practice on them that way it wont matter if it breaks as its already junk. Practice removal and reapplying components, you’ll soon grow in confidence. if you can get hold of a few cheap hobby electronics kits for a few dollarbucks, or what ever your currency is. The kind of thing that flashes a light sequence or makes a timer or such. Practice on them and you can remove and reapply.

It does need a lot more attention.

This does seem a bit like trying to re-invent the wheel but arguing over what colour to paint it.

I found mine on ebay. A seller was selling them and had significant stock, I bought 10 just to make sure I had spares. Just checked and they have no stock. some old budget graphics cards have coolers that are similar or suitable with a bit of modding. As long as you steer clear of the premium cards you miss the vintage tax. That said one seller is trying to sell a universal gpu cooler for $30 that you still see at computer fairs on sale new for $5 and carboot sales for less.

Have a look at this thread as they are the same.