MadMartigan

My pleasure. Hope it helps bring a few back to life.

Try two things before you go to drastic measures. 1. Fill a sink or tub with hot water and Dawn liquid dish detergent. Submerge the case and let it sit for an hour or so. Then give it a good scrub and rinse. 2. Buy some Dawn Concentrate spray. Soak the case down and let it sit for 5 mins or so. Then scrub and see results. Both of these have fully revived yellowed and dingy crystal cases for me.

I see some debate in the enhanced fan cooling thread. Was there ever any definitive conclusion on if it’s worth the effort or not?

Yes

I'd be shocked if any of them could pull off 4.

Well damn. Sounds like it’s time to start replacing components. Cheapest first

I’d put a pin in this topic until the new adapter arrives. I’m not suggesting that either bios can support higher capacities. I was more so leaning towards the adapter being crap and some HDDs just don’t play well with those cheap adapters. While some work just fine without a 30 second boot time. Jumper shouldn’t matter using sata drives, but I could be wrong on that. Also, UDMA 5 will not work, I repeat, WILL NOT WORK with a lot of those cheap clone adapters. Doesn’t matter what bios you’re using. Nor will it work using a 40wire IDE.

Are you sure you’re using the correct PSU for the 1.4?

The case looks to have had some corrosion issues. I’d pop the mobo out and check for any broken traces underneath.

It really depends on the combination of drive and adapter. Unless they decide to convert to Cerbios for good, they won’t be able to utilize the faster UDMA speeds. And with a dual bios, you’d only be able to use one of them successfully with a HDD set up improperly. That being said, UDMA2 is the limit with the stock 40wire I believe.

That’s what we thought about 16TB HDDs and direct HDMI ten years ago. Maybe something a little less flimsy. Something along the lines of an LPC rebuild board with small ribbon extensions. Just brainstorming here.

Are you using an 80wire IDE cable or the stock 40wire? What type of adapter are you using?

Have you tried a different cable and different Tv?

The chances of the chip being bad are slim and it’s a good sign that the LED works on the chip. Those connections don’t look good at all. As @Bowlsnapper has suggested, it’s highly recommended to use some flux and add just a tiny amount of solder to each connection of the LPC. I recommend doing the opposite to the D0. The solder is a bit globby and a little too much exposed wire. Not entirely sure what gauge wire you’re using, but the smaller the better in that case. Around 30g or smaller makes for an easier connection. Flux can be your best friend on all connections. Take your time!

Hope these help.

And now after patiently waiting, it’s time to build the perfect Xbox.

No problem at all. Try discord if you have it and look for “Xbox homebrew”

With a mod chip installed, you don’t need to lock the drive any longer. Easiest way to build the newer drive is with fatxplorer 3.0 beta. Get the beta, not the full release.

This forum is for the original Xbox. While someone may be able to help you, this isn’t the place you want to be.

How about a test run maybe?

Yes I do. What all are you looking for?

I bet @KaosEngineer could whip something up in his sleep.

Honestly, those solder joints don’t look very good. Are you applying flux before soldering? How hot is your iron?

You’re right. I had to include that n the post since it is part of the progress towards getting new faceplates. Now we have the three key factors needed to one day see this happen. Edit: For what it’s worth, I’ll take a 3D print any day of the week and twice on Sundays. I’d like to think there are many others with me.

Dustin/MakeMHz, has stated that they’re working on compatibility with the old XLCD screens AND, the STL has been released for the faceplate along with the X3CP board being successfully cloned. I think it’s safe to say that It’s only a matter of time now. Glad I still have the old X3 lying around. In other news, my Stellar just arrived today.