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Localhorst86

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About Localhorst86

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  1. what exactly does that contain? I know Eurasia as a release group, surely 128Gb (92Gb according to the label) would not be able to hold all the releases from a 15-year time span...
  2. Well, yes and no. Before, his PC was limited to 100Mbit/s overall. So in addition to the transfer to the xbox, the PC would share that same bandwidth with other applications, Web browsing, downloading and general network overhead. So switching the PC to a gigabit connection can improve transfer speed even to a 100Mbit/s fast-ethernet-only device because other activities do not cut into that fast-ethernet bandwidth. But yes, ftp transfer to the xbox will never exceed fast-ethernet speeds.
  3. Localhorst86

    Hdmi

    there seems to be a flat ribbon connector that you solder directly to the video encoder.
  4. to be honest, I'd keep it and put it in the box for the xbox stuff. It can be usefull to troubleshoot issues if your modded xbox ever runs into issues - I have a spare original drive set up with a softmod and nulled eeprom (i have the eeprom of my xboxes nulled) so if any of my xbox ever has issues, I can just go ahead and swap the drive in and troubleshoot HDD issues.
  5. are you sure it's not just someone who wrote their name on it to mark it as theirs?
  6. Ok, at the risk of talking to myself and appearing like a lunatic in the process, I figured it out. I bought a VS1838B ir receiver at a whim and low and behold, using this part everything works.
  7. can't seem to edit the above post. I have tried both versions of the firmware, with the same result (with the exception that I had to switch PB and EB on version 1000, as mentioned in the readme). I have tripple checked all connections and soldering, and I can see that the IR receivers get a voltage of 3.3V. I can also see a voltage of 2.8V applied to the SCK pin of the attiny85 IC when idle, which drops to 2V when pressing a button on the remote. Am I just using incompatible IR Receivers? Which IR Receiver would I need to use?
  8. has anyone built one of these? I just programmed the attiny, I built the board and connected it to the xbox. WHen I plug the xbox into the wall, I get the pulsing LED which tells me the system is working. However, I can not get the xbox to power on using the remote. When I enter programming mode, the LED also never flashes. I've tried two different IR receivers (I desoldered the one from the xbox DVD playback kit and another one from a RC6 receiver I used back in the day.) with the same result. any ideas what might be wrong?
  9. Do you have the Wii2HDMI internalized? I tried a bunch of wii2hdmi adapters and wiring them up externaly (for flexibility), but they all have this wavey pattern through the image which is - apparently - to blame on the MSA9288A chipset used in these.
  10. @Rocky5 not sure if it's of any importance, but I do like your XISO splitter tool. It's very convenient because you don't have to remember the proper filesizes for splitting the files. I have noticed that the tool will fail to split XISO files of games that contain special characters (like "Conker: Live and Reloaded") - because if limitations of the Windows OS (":" is an invalid file character). As I said, not a huge issue - I just split the file manually using a hex editor, but maybe you're interested in fixing that at some point. Other than that, I'd like to say: top job on the Softmodding tool.
  11. OK, posting this here in case someone comes across it looking for the solution. I had to switch my Evox m8+ BIOS's IGR method to "more compatible" and skip the PBL from the pack (instead directly using the virtual drive patcher). Now when I IGR, the system reboots to the dashboard.
  12. thanks, so I guess if I don't solder up the IR receiver from the USB port, I don't actually need that diode. But I guess I can use the spare IR Receiver I have to salvage the IR unit and wire it directly to IR+/-/d - I just need to figure out which leg is which
  13. What kind of components do I need? U1 = ATTINY 85-20 SU? MMBT3906 = MMBT3906 SOT32? R1,2,4 = 10kOhm but what size? 0603? R3 = 100 Ohm but what size? 0603? C1= 4.7uF but what size? 0603? I assume 6.3V would be enough? C2 = 0.1uF but what size? 0603? 6.3V? D1 = ??? couldn't find that in the original schematic
  14. Yes, modern TVs need to do processing on the image (upscaling it to the resolution of the panel) and often have various filters enabled to try and improve the image when doing so. Often TVs have a "gaming mode" that will disable most of the processing and reduce it (and the resulting lag) to a minimum. Try additionaly disabling any image processing in the TVs menu. As the upscalers built into TVs are often not very good or particularly suited/intended for game consoles, the best solution would probably be a dedicated hardware scaler like the OSSC or a Framemeister (allthough both are not very cheap, either). The wii2hdmi mod is a cheap alternative (like, laughably cheap), allthough most of the units available on the market nowadays have a ms9288a chipset which introduces interference (wavy lines across the screen, usually noticable in dark, solid color areas.).
  15. So I am trying to use this on a TSOP modded 1.0 xbox. I am using the files from this post: and mounting the ISO works fine. However, when loading an ISO game, using the In-Game-Rest button combo will not return me back to my dashboard but only restart the game. I need to power the xbox off and back on to switch to a different game. Is there some way to fix this?

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