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I did this on a 1.0 tonight and played Halo 2 for a bit. I didn't notice any issues and XBMC4Gamers reported a temperature drop from 145f to 120f (both measured on reboot after playing for a bit). That's 63c down to 49c. I still want to play with it extensively to make sure it's actually stable, but if it's not, I can always put the resistor back.

Madmab did update DOSXBox and his last version is 14beta5. This version was part of the DosXbox Ultimate Set (v0.9) "All games are optimized for stock Xboxes. Speed and emulator configs were tweaked to get the best possible experience for every game. Obviously a lot of hardware demanding games won’t run at all on the Xbox, so these were left out. We went through the hassle to go through almost the complete DOS games database (a few thousand) to gather the most worthy games for this collection. You will find the results in form of over 600 games and about 100gb of data. For a lot of games we choose the CD release over the disk version for when it gives the better experience. Where possible we included the full game over the shareware version. Also you will find quite some super rare asian (mostly korean) DOS games which you won’t find in any other romset out there (i.e. ExoDOS). These are mainly action and shmup titles and are greatly playable. Then there a few german only games, mostly adventures. Furthermore we have only included games which aren’t playable on any other emulator on the xbox as DOS emulation is rather complicated (more on this later). Only exceptions are superior DOS versions as well as some adventures and few other games which can now be enjoyed with the glorious MT32 sound, as this was DOS exclusive and the Xbox ScummVM release can’t emulate it. We have preconfigured and optimized all games for the Xbox. So all installations, setups, button to pad mappings, etc. is all done for every single game. You can start each game with just the press of one button."

CE is a hardware difference. Bios will not matter there. Yes, if it has the switch bank up front, it's an X3. Cerbios will not block live. Either use X3 ConfigLive (hold white button during the boot animation to go into it) to flash Cerbios (I flash it to bank 5 (switches 1,2 & 4 on), keeping the X3 bios on banks 1-4 (switches 1 & 2 on), or use FlashBios which you can boot by pressing power and eject to boot. I would use X3CL to flash. You can flash via HTTP to keep things simple. Use an installer disc, or image the drive with a good downloaded image. You'll be aight.

Yep. Don't apply force to frozen plastic (generally speaking), especially when it's hard to begin with. I've shattered two plexiglass windows in winter trying to smack them open on the corners. I think the temperature was a mere 20F.

direct link is in the readme.md file on github (scroll down) and no you can run both if you want.

mpv player. https://mpv.io/ open source project plays pretty much everything, even in house EA video and audio formats. BIK works fine. xmv plays, but audio out of sync. drawback it doesn't have front end, but i find drag and drop comfier.

Good morning everyone! To give you an update: I sucessfully installed a new SATA HDD to my old XBOX. Everything is working fine. And it seems that the problem was my old IDE HDD. Connecting it to my PC, it did not work properly (lights flashing etc.) and FATXplorer wasn't able to find it. Either accidentally or because of the shock of getting a new BIOS, it must have crashed and burned. Well, it has done its work the last decades admirably - may it rest in peace. So, all things considered, everything is working again. Thank you all for your splendid support, awesome advice and help. It is really much appreciated. Cheers, southcamp

It worked without the resistors. I used Ver. 2.0 . I'm gonna try 3.0 next

*grabs a drink from my crowded freezer* Back to work. I peel off whatever's left of the adhesive pad thing. Maybe I could've just rubbed it off. Meh. For the absolutely clueless amongst us, what I'll be doing here is cutting a hole in order to add LEDs underneath to light the jewel (after polishing out the jewel). Mind you this whole area is not getting hollowed out, the jewel needs a rim of plastic to sit on. I decide the rim will be 4mm wide. Not owning a tool able to directly measure the plastic, I use my ruler to measure 4mm of width on some thick-ish paper and cut out a strip of that to use as my tool instead. With the paper strip and a needle I go around the circumference of the plastic, measuring and poking it with the needle to mark off 4 millimeters. With the needle's tip I connect the dots. Now the rim is clearly defined. Now I get my leather work gloves and safety glasses on. With my utility knife I score a second, smaller circle into the plastic. It looks like this (when it's done). Oh. The second circle doesn't need to be so close, but setting it farther away just means even more plastic to cut off later, and more time out of my day to cut it. At the start of scoring the plastic I'm applying very light pressure with the knife and keeping it slanted backward a bit so (1) the knife doesn't jump off track and cut things it's not supposed to, and so (2) if it possibly does jump, it jumps into the middle area there that we don't care about. Pic below shows the slant. Next pic shows how I'm really using my knife. I am not actually pulling it around with my right hand. My right hand is only holding it while my left thumb nudges against the blade to move it along. This gives me the most control over my cutting. Round and round we go, scoring the circle deeper. My aim is not to cut completely through the case, only to dig a groove. It's needed for the next step. This work takes a long g'damn time tbh. Better turn some music on... That's deep enough. Now I'm going to really cut out the plastic. I stab the groove and press down while wrenching my blade back and forth in the manner indicated by the blue arrows until its tip has penetrated the underside of the xbox's cover. I pull the knife out and continue along the circumference. Some explaining is in order. My reasons for the making the smaller circle and scoring it in before this step are (1) cutting right into the rim that I marked off would obviously ruin everything, and because (2) the plastic in that area of the xbox's cover is 3mm thick, too thick to stab and wrench at, it would take too much force to be safe for me or the xbox. The groove made it safe. All done. Now I reach in from underneath and trim the whole gnarly surface, cutting with a motion indicated by the arrow, gently, with little pressure. This step is not about final shaping so I stop just before reaching the 4mm rim. There's a tiny bit of slack left. ... I should say, even after all this cutting, the tip of the blade was still sharp enough to shave fur. :3 Greatest hobby knife ever, haha. Next step is final shaping. I do this with very coarse sandpaper and I do it outdoors while wearing a respirator (not a useless covid mask) and while running a fan. Sanding this plastic turns it into superfine dust that gets absolutely everywhere into the air, instantly, and I don't wanna discover what diseases I'd get from breathing that crap. If I didn't own a respirator and fan I'd just totally wrap my face in a shirt and jump into the shower afterward with the cover and all my clothes on. You know what. Maybe next time I'll just do the work while showering. Any grit of sandpaper from 40 to 80 will work. No fixed motions or angles are required for the sanding. Just shape the rim. Reaching in from underneath so I don't accidentally hit the exterior. I'm going to finish the shaping later and polish the edge with higher grit sandpapers. This is the look of things now. More to come.

I'm working on it.

Yes, not sure why that URL was inserted into my post. I was visiting the Wayback Machine archived copy of the web page when I copy/pasted it. Weird. Thanks for posting a good link to it.

Take a look at the x-changer manual: http://www.teamxchanger.com/downloads/XOR-X-Changer(2.2).pdf Update: New link as I thought I copy/pasted the Wayback Machine link, not the original URL: https://web.archive.org/web/20060825184258/http://www.teamxchanger.com/downloads/XOR-X-Changer(2.2).pdf

Wow. The dongle seems to contain a TSOP chip, which I'm assuming is split to serve multiple purposes: flash storage, RAM, etc. Very, very cool about the licensing reasons for containment.