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  2. So would using a USB MIC/Headset work through the controller if I do not have a OG Communicator / headset?
  3. Today
  4. If I remember right IGR does not work with these.
  5. I think they are available on Etsy. I bought one there about a year ago. It works well. I've been using it with an 8bitdo wireless adapter and primarily a XBO or PS4 pad. There is a quirk in that the 8bitdo won't pair with the controllers on power up unless I press its connect button.
  6. A few more photos. It is so incredibly basic inside. I had to repair the green component output years ago because the horrible molding caused a wire to eventually break. They charged $50 for this! I don't know if I think a wire is broken. Moving the cable around while it's operating doesn't affect anything. Analog audio and component video are working fine. A cap replacement is easy to find but I'm not sure how to shop for an emitter.
  7. Could also be a broken wire inside the cable not making it detect signal perhaps?
  8. Not much to replace there... There's a ceramic capacitor, but I think those rarely go bad... Maybe try replacing both that and the SPDIF LED module?
  9. My HD AV Pack is no longer outputting a working optical audio signal. The receiver acts as if nothing is connected. The AV box is producing the red light but it is noticeably dimmer when compared to my TV's optical output. I tried two optical cables and two XBoxes. Inside the HD AV pack, the optical audio section is on a mini PCB and has a tantalum cap, as shown in the photo. Could this cap be going bad and causing the LED to dim?
  10. i have also tried something else and this may indicate an issue with the Xblast OS i have on the chip, If i install an Aladdin XT with Cerbios, it boots and detects the full 128mb or ram, so the xblast OS im using which ive used before on a 1.6 with hynix Ram worked fine, but on a 1.6 with the samsung ram as pictured, works up to bank 3 but not bank 4 - attached is a dump of the 1mb OS i have on my xblast Aladdin - if anyone can see whats up with it to not work with the ram im using that be great lol *also, if i install bank 4 FIRST it does not work, there is something about bank 4 that xblast does not like lol* V16 XBLAST
  11. first thing ive tried, its very strange, only affecting Bank 4
  12. You seem like you are an experienced guy... I'm sure you tried another chip just in case that one is DOA?
  13. Hi guys, having a bit of an issue that is trolling me, V1.6 xbox using all K4D263238M-QC50, The ONLY bank i have a problem with is bank 4 and ONLY bank 4, i have no bridges this is not my first rodeo, using xblast all banks 1-2-3 are fine, ONLY when i install the 4th bank, the console just turns on and stays green light with no display, kinda like a coma console, its weird, if i REMOVE bank 4 and boot up, it will boot into Xblast and Test 1-2-3 ok, its not my soldering, i have NO idea why its only doing it with bank 4 - its not caps, its been re-capped, any help would be great
  14. Yeah hopefully they weren't thrown out. The tape is probably wound tightly enough around the spools to not let water get in. Outside layer might be exposed to water but inner could be fine. Even if the plastic shell is hosed, the tape spools could be transplanted into a donor shell. Several of my tapes had mold on them and I took them apart and sprayed alcohol on them to clean the outer layers and edges. But inside was mostly fine. I also have a stack of hi-8 tapes, but decent camcorders are expensive so been holding off on those. Hopefully you can find and salvage them. OXHD is coming along pretty well from what I can see. They have working boards. Here's a shot of one: https://x.com/OGX_Harcroft/status/1772763477519573003 I actually have an unpopulated OXHD board that I still need to build. My XboxHD+ works just fine, but I'd rather not be locked to Stellar or have to jump through hoops to make it work standalone. When my Stellar wasn't working for some reason, it was a very odd feeling not being able to use my Xbox because I couldn't get a video signal. XboxHD+ works well aside from that requirement and I don't mean to speak badly about it, it's just not a product that suits my particular needs.
  15. How can I contact you for the 1 port version one?
  16. Yesterday
  17. Just got a great deal on this. $15 with free shipping on eBay. After your reply I did a little more research on The Third Age. Initially I thought it was Strategy RPG, but to my happy surprise it's standard Turn Base. Don't get me wrong, I like SRPG's, but I have to be in the mood for them. Anyway, thanks again for the suggestion!
  18. don't forget pixelfx is also making their retrogem compatible with Xbox. lots of options very soon
  19. I managed to digitize some of those tapes before this happened, the ones i digitized were shot on VHS-C, the rest Hi8 which i don't have a camera for. I'm actually not quite sure where the tapes ended up, hopefully they didn't get thrown out. I was unaware actually that those guys were all working on HDMI mods, that's super interesting. Harcroft is a good guy, him and i did some work upscaling old XBL ads together lol. I think i'll wait on it and see what happens. The HDMI space could definitely use some competition. Thanks for the info! PS. i love @ModzvilleUSA's videos. been watching him for a while.
  20. It does? I haven't had any on all the consoles I've run it on... What issues are you experiencing?
  21. Wanted to add that bridges are easy to avoid if you use a shit ton of flux (obviously) and then only add a little to the tip of your iron and do the drag method. You can always add more once you sap all the solder off the tip of your iron, but if you have too much, you'll end up with bridges and needing to remove it. Although I don't wick right away, I'll try to go along another side/row of pins and move some of the solder from one row to the next that I work on. Much easier... and you'll need less solder for that next row you started. And never get solder into the vias around the chips. I have no idea why, but it kills motherboards. If it happens, use braid to get it out of the via before you run power through the board... seriously.
  22. If you just did the those I mentioned (and of course any that looked suspect) you’ll probably be fine for a while. Just thought I’d mention the full recap as an option for down the road. If you run in to issues finding the cpu caps on the board dm me your revision or a pic of the mobo and I can give you the locations and values. For the rf shielding I thought you might find this useful. Quite a few people chimed in with different methods they use (sanding, painting, replacing, etc).
  23. I'll look at getting all caps replaced in time but I will do the main ones for the time being. Yes, it's the RF shield - sorry I wasn't specific. Ta
  24. Glad you were able to get everything going! There are 3-5 caps (depending on revision) near the cpu and power connector that’ll be either 1500 microfarad 6.3v or 330 microfarad 6.3v (depending on revision). These tend to be common points of failure so they’re definitely caps to replace if you haven’t already. Given the age of all the of the radial caps they could honestly all use replacing but I’d start with those even if I didn’t do any others. As to your second query it sounds like you are referring to the rf shield underneath the mobo. Is that correct?
  25. I forget where I saw it, but I read that to avoid the issues with power saving drives, you need to disable the head parking feature. Not sure if this is a permanent fix, or it just helps reduce the chance of issues. I saw someone on reddit say that they used Autosol for the shielding. I've never tried anything myself. I've seen some caps between the board and fan bulge, but I don't know if any others fail at a more extreme rate.
  26. Thanks a mill FrostyMaGee! for all the great info and offer in further guidance. It has been a hell of a journey to say the least.In between reading posts, I managed to get one XBox back to stock and softmodded and upgraded the drive. I ordered the IDE(PATA) adapter 6 years ago along with the 80pin ribbon cable, so was all good to go. Had a few 2TB WD green drives that checked all the boxes. I know you said avoid them but they are very quiet and I haven't noticed any stalling when playing or loading - so far. After my negative experience above with the wrong unlock/lock adapter, I had the workflow down pat playing around with the Warmstor brand IDE adapter from eBay, FATXplorerBeta64 and XBoxHDM-2.3-Beta4 (on the borked but recovered drive above). Quick and easy. Did not tick the right box in FATXplorerBeta64 to format the drive correctly so quickly doing that gave access to the whole drive. Managed to rip most of my games onto the HDD (a few refused to work) and have been a happy chappy since. If anyone needs a link to the IDE unlock adapter in Oz, do let me know. The clock capacitor has been removed on this baby, but I need to replace the x3 caps near the CPU/GPU - thermal paste replaced on both chips. Parts coming in from abroad. Another XBox had a flashing orange ring after cleaning copious filth upon opening and stopped working - was working seemigly ok with carpets of filth - with the orange light indicator and refusing to show an image and then completely blank. I narrowed it down and replaced the ADM1032 Temperature Monitor with this https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-humidity-sensor-ics/7919623, which may have been indicating overheat and causing the issue. I ripped pads and spent a week micro-soldering to recreate connections but managed to get it onfor continuity. I'll confirm all is working once the caps come in so I can recap both xboxes and then add a 2TB to this one, too. Two remaining questions I have: 1. The damaged caused over time by clock and other cap leakage should not be underestimated. I have been lucky with these two I have and will ensure I get to all the other caps in time. Please please please remove the clock cap at minimum. Apart from the four caps I will have replaced, are there others that have a tendency to do the above mentioned damaged? 2. There seems to be a lot of corrosion/rust on the metal suppoprt frame at the bottom or near the fan. I tried soaking in baking soda but that did not help - maybe I should make the bath more acidic? If anyone has any experience with this corrosion any advice would be appreciated
  27. Absolutely, it's on my list. I've already been able to pick up the other Tolkien games. Looking forward to getting the Third Age.
  28. Welcome! Since you said you enjoy rpgs I thought I’d recommend Lord of the Rings: The Third Age. It’s an rpg I really enjoyed on the original Xbox.
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