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Yeah I looked up the red/orange and saw it was a ram issue. The odd thing was that it sometimes tosses green in there too. Like flickers between green and orange for a couple seconds. Then goes red/orange. Not all the time though. Also could you all explain to me why you think the 3300 10v caps wouldn’t work there. Looking at the old caps and according to the wiki interactive board that should be what goes there. Unfortunately I have to get new ones either way (beyond the leaking one that needs replaced) cause the legs are damaged and or/very short.

look here: https://www.xbox-scene.info/forums/topic/340-ide-to-sata-adapter-compatibility-thread/#comment-571

The problem with the generic adapters is the quality control isn't really there. Each one of the same model may work well or may not. And the generic adapters vary in compatibility in general. There are 2-3 different interface chips AFAIK. The XBox doesn't like all of them.

My first PC had a 20MB hard card. SSHDs are hard drives with some flash memory that stores frequently accessed blocks. So the weight is there and they do have some noise, but they are usually quiet drives.

I've never used the StarTech brand IDE > SATA adapter. There are three Xboxes I have fitted with SATA HDDs and all are of the same generic design which was recommended on another forum well over a decade ago now. All bought at different times over the years since then too and I've not had any problems with them. https://www.amazon.co.uk/NFHK-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter-Desktop/dp/B09GPGFLWB Important thing are having the jumper pins. some similar designs don't and are, presumably, Cable Select only. Typical price everywhere is £8/$10 or less.

Linked below is my eBay seller account. https://www.ebay.com/usr/vanislandtech

Remember a decade or so ago it was strongly advised to ONLY buy StarTech brand SATA / IDE adapters. I remember them costing around $20 USD. Is this still the case? What is yours experiences? Are the $3 USD cheap Chinese ones on eBay acceptable?

Running this in a slim was one of the first things I thought of. It’s got me thinking how low can it go, if for instance you only want to run emulation for old arcade cabs that only ran games with a few hundred k of ram, the cpu requirement is a couple of hundred mega or less. Thinking fanless box and silent running.

@flintboy22 Art for the Big Ass Emulator Discs is now available in the thread linked below. Custom XBMC4Gamers art thread I have some "spicier" versions on the way later on today

looks dangerous

Would probably be worth going over the mobo and check for any solder splashes/bridges and see if that might be causing the current orange red boot up. Since you’ve been soldering and all. Just thought I’d throw it out there.

Can anybody tell me how I can perform file editing functions? Like, move, copy, delete, rename, etc? I cannot find this in XKUtils or online anywhere. I suspect it may just be a regular C++ command/function.

That's a RAM error too... Orange and red.

Shipping available from Vancouver Island, BC in Western Canada. Shipping to majority of USA via Canada Post "Expedited Parcel" is an additional $45 USD. Shipping to majority of Canada via Canada Post "Regular Parcel" is $50 CDN.

I figured out the issue was due to some problem in the DVD drive. This drive functions correctly and reads games, and works great in any other console. It only seems to cause issues in this console so I swapped it for another and the problem is gone. That's not really a fix but I don't have the time or energy to track down why this one off weird incompatibility exists.

I can’t say I’ve ever run across one of those before. I’ve seen where people have made it adapt but never anything with an actual adapter. Lol. Cool.

Nobody mentioned that the thing is right below the edge of the CPU heatsink enclosure. Working an iron around in there without accident sure took a minute. Results. Played Metal Wolf Chaos for a while with 20% fan and at room temperature. Cpu used to reach like 53C. Right after IGR'ing... Whoa. Then watched The Super with 10% fan. Cpu used to hit 49C now it peaks at 38C (shows 39C only because of running the menu during video playback). The xbox ran about three hours with no freezes, lags, etc.. For context I'm running a slimbox with a puny 60mm case fan which sees CPU temps of up to 64C on hot days unless the fan speed is so high it's noisy. Noisy fans and 64C suck. Maybe after all these years I can stop worrying about the ol' box croaking from heat stroke, lol. That was a genius discovery you made, OP. GENIUS I SAY!

So I tossed in the old ones but no luck. Unfortunately the ends were short so it was a struggle for sure. Still getting orange and red on the eject button and no video.

Great, thank-you so much for your input. I'll report back with my findings.

Gotcha. I’ll swap the olds back in and see what it does. If it works I’ll order replacements for them specifically.

thanks MadMartigan You can just keep one probe held flat across the whole row of leads as shown on the left side of this pic, and test those exposed metal points on the white connector one by one with the other probe. If you don't get continuity with a given wire or if the reading goes on/off while flexing the group of wires around (not too much flexing) that means it's bad. I suggested this because my xbox had your same problem a couple years ago and I needed to replace multiple wires there. If you don't have broken wires, at least you'll have eliminated that possibility.

If you’re comfortable with the task and the others weren’t damaged during removal, then yes. I can take a pic of one of my boards if it’ll help you locate where they’re supposed to go. Then replace all of the silver caps that are bunch together in that pic of the PSU area. 10v is fine to replace a lower voltage. Just never drop down below.

You think those caps won’t work there and thats my issue? Everything worked before I swapped them but I was worried about that leaking long term. However I am definitely willing to put in different ones if those won’t work obviously.

Nothing wrong with recapping an entire board if you want. In this case, you just recapped the wrong caps lol

Turn the dial to the same setting as in the picture. Then press the function button until it matches mine also. After that, you touch your red probe tip to one end of the trace you’re testing, and the black probe tip to the desired destination. You should either hear your multimeter make a beep, or show you a reading on the screen. If no reading or beep, there is no continuity.