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Where would/should I start....


ChaoticAnarchyX
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Hello everyone,

I've have been sitting on an Xbox rev 1.0 mobo that had an Xcuter 2.6? (I removed it and am holding on it.) The board doesn't power on at all.

A little back story on it.

My wife was gifted this on a facebook forum and didn't know what the working state of it was. 

The reason the poster choose us was the poster said something about this would be great for someone that tinkers and gets consoles working again. They said the console worked the last time they tried it a year ago (I'm skeptical about that.)

So when the wife came in with it insted of being smart about it and trying to power it up, my giddy nerdy "whats inside" got to me and I tore into it.

I knew instantly that someone was in it before me as the footpads were removed and one missing. Pressing on discovered it had a Thompson drive, a 120 gig HD, and an Xcuter chip and the wires to the 3 switches they snaked through the front by Controller port 1. I never removed any of the wires, the wiring harness was soldered into the ports on the motherboard that you would normally solder them to. Everything looked fine as there was really little to no dust on anything (wife tells me the part of town she picked it up from was definetly upper scale neighborhood.) All caps look very healthy, no bulges, no rust tops. I put everything back together, pluged it in and.... nothing.... at all. 

So i sat on it for a few days, and in that time found a friend that just so happend to be sitting on a rev 1.0 that he was gonna try to mod back in the early days. It was missing the top cover, came with another thompson drive and its original 10 Gig HD, nothing else. I was able to swap out the board, removed both boards clock caps, cleaned up both boards (91 Isopropyl is my friend and nothing less) and horse hair vacuumed. Cleaned the power supplys, checked everything using info and referance pics from this site. I tested both power supplys and DVD drives and all work very well. One power supply is Delta and the other Foxlink.

I tried the power switches of both cases and they both work no prob.

Fast foward a little, I now have one beautifuly hacked Xbox and one thats sticking me in the eye mocking me to figure out. So my ultimate question to you restoration Guru's is: where should I start to get an idea whats plaguing this board from firing up? Bad/borked BIOS? All traces are clean visably, nothing looks cut into.

I am not sure whats the best starting point to diagnose this as a legit DOA mobo, or can it be brought back using the right tools..

 

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Make sure that the power supply is producing a 3.3Vdc standby (STB) voltage level when AC is connected to the console. There is a section of the power supply that is always on.  With a multimeter, measure the D.C. voltage level between the brown and black wire connections on the motherboard's power supply connector.

psu10-11.gif.4f20bac1225477c7611b4c2cc8041c2f.gif

If not, make sure that the solder joints for the AC power connector on the Power Supply Unit are not broken.  If they are, they need to be cleaned (most likely have sparked in the past) and resoldered with some new lead-based rosin core solder.

Next, make sure that there is continuity from the power and eject button to the PIC processor pins as discussed in this Wayback Machine capture of diy.sickmods.net's web page - web.archive.org/web/20150227170644/http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1/Power-Eject_Pinouts/

Note: The Wayback Machine was having access issues when I posted this messasge.

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Do I want the xbox plugged into the wall when i measure the ohm's? If so I am getting pulls. Not the 10k like the pictures. If im doing the right points to measure I'm getting 3.17 ohms from the power terminal that the wiring harness connects to on the motherboard to the right side of the fuse above the R3G4, and 3.11 ohm's from the right side of the fuse on the right of R3G3..

Edited by ChaoticAnarchyX
Testing on the fly
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18 minutes ago, ChaoticAnarchyX said:

Do I want the xbox plugged into the wall when i measure the ohm's?

When testing resistance (ohm's) the Xbox is unplugged from the wall and testing the PSU the power supply you need it connected to the AC outlet with the meter set  to DC volts.

Test the blue and purple pins on the IC and you should have 3.3 volt with the Xbox connected to the mains (Wall)

pe_trace_10-11.jpg.fbf4f7948c5ea07c783d47853651f5df.jpg.a5f1daee96cc3a3246dea2b9b4914487.jpg

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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1 hour ago, ChaoticAnarchyX said:

I am assuming that Im supposed to be taking the reading for the PIC with ground on the left side of the 2nd fuse above R3G4 and the point on the left side and 5th terminal down on the PIC??

Use one of the screws as ground and read the voltage on the pins of the PIC.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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Now test for power at the 12 pin plug with the mains connected

The blue wire marked PowOK should have around 3.3 volt and the brown should also have 3.3 volt + or - 10%.

This is looking at the connector with the front panel towards you

psu10-11.gif

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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13 hours ago, ChaoticAnarchyX said:

Do I want the xbox plugged into the wall when i measure the ohm's?

No.

You are to measure continuity from the violet and cyan colored via on the front edge of the motherboard to the same color-coded pin on the PIC processor.  The top 3/4 of the picture is the PIC processor and the bottom 1/4 of the picture shows the location of the vias by the front panel connector.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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