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no one replied to this in the repair section so i decided i'd try it here in the hopes that more people see it. 720p and 1080i look beautiful. i've tried the xbox2hdmi adapter and the xedusa one on it. both seem to have issues. they show up better on xedusa because it is a more crisp picture. i'm trying to think of how to describe the issues. 480p has little distortion lines that keep popping up in random places. they can mainly be seen when there is some kind of text one the screen. 480 has those distortions plus it has constant vertical lines through the pic. anyway, what would cause this? bad capicitors somewhere? i have already replaced the clock cap and the 5 in front of the processors and that reminded me i'm not as good at replacing caps as i used to be. it was not fun and i really don't want to risk ruining a trace or something if i try to recap the whole board. so is there any special caps i need to pay close attention to?
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the question is mainly for @SS_Dave and @KaosEngineer. since the xboxs have no ground, i was wondering if maybe rigging up an electrical plug that uses a third ground prong and grounding the metal shelding inside the xbox might fix this problem? -
I'm working on my second original Xbox (version 1.6) motherboard, trying to install a mod chip. Unfortunately, I've run into the same issue as with my first attempt. After completing the installation, the console refuses to power on. I've removed the mod chip, yet the console still won't turn on. Even after disconnecting all wires, there's no response. However, power is reaching the board—the LED on the mod chip lights up when plugged into the header socket. With my first motherboard, I used an LPC board, whereas on this second one, I opted for direct wiring. I'm confident my wiring and soldering are correct. The mod chip I'm using is the Aladdin XT Plus 2. Could the mod chip be causing this issue? It's the only constant between both attempts. But if the chip were the problem, why wouldn’t the console power on even after its removal? I'd really like to understand what's going on. At this point, I'm considering buying a pre-modded 1.6 motherboard with a chip installed. If anyone knows where I can find one, that would be much appreciated.
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720p and 1080i look beautiful. i've tried the xbox2hdmi adapter and the xedusa one on it. both seem to have issues. they show up better on xedusa because it is a more crisp picture. i'm trying to think of how to describe the issues. 480p has little distortion lines that keep popping up in random places. they can mainly be seen when there is some kind of text one the screen. 480 has those distortions plus it has constant vertical lines through the pic. anyway, what would cause this? bad capicitors somewhere? i have already replaced the clock cap and the 5 in front of the processors and that reminded me i'm not as good at replacing caps as i used to be. it was not fun and i really don't want to risk ruining a trace or something if i try to recap the whole board. so is there any special caps i need to pay close attention to?
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Hello, So i have this issue with my OG Xbox 1.6: after installing Cerbios v2.4.2 (i tried different revisions and it's the same - but it doesn't do that with EvoX 8+, so it's not an hardware issue) some games have a noticeable warping in the upper part of the screen, and in others, like Conker Live&Reloaded, the screen remains black after the first loading screen. I'm using UnleashX dash with composite scart on a CRT and these games are set to PAL (60) or NTSC-J, for example Unreal Championship or Metal Wolf Chaos. Only if i set them to NTSC they don't have the warping issue, but i don't like the NTSC colors. Games like Halo 2, Morrowind, Doom 3 and Arx Fatalis works flawlessly if set on PAL. Are there any solutions to this issue?
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Apologies if I leave necessary details out by mistake - am very new to the Xbox modding scene and am learning as I go. Am happy to provide more info as I can. I have a 1.0 Xbox that had a Duo X2 TSOP modchip and 80gb IDE drive installed before it came into my possession. Haven't done anything from a software perspective other than FTP to the xbox and copy everything from the drive over to my PC. (Partitions were C,D,E,F,G, but D and G were empty) I originally actually thought the xbox was soft modded bc the boot animation/xbox screen look the same as factory but saw the chip when I was replacing capacitors/thermal paste. I have a 160gb IDE drive I want to use as a replacement, originally I burned the Rocky5 extras disc and used it to install chimp, then I went through the whole hot swapping method. I was able to get into chimp, it was reading both of the drives and according to chimp at least it cloned successfully with no errors, but now if I plug in the new drive the xbox just freezes on the Xbox/Microsoft logo after the flubber animation. No error code or anything. The original 80gb drive still works fine if I plug it back in. I picked up an IDE to usb 3.0 adapter today, is it best just to hook up the 160gb HDD to my PC and use fatxplorer to reformat the drive and then just copy everything over that I FTP'd from the original 80gb HDD? Am a little bit lost here and any pointers would be appreciated!
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Rocky5 issues (persistent softmod, MS dash etc.)
test23523 posted a topic in General Xbox Discussion
Posting here because this subforum seems more active, feel free to move if needed. Anyway, I have the Rocky5 softmod and ran into a few issues. My Xbox is 1.4 with the 5713 BIOS. I was trying to install the MS dashboard via the extras disc for transferring savegames, this would mess up the previous dashboard (add green buttons, sound etc.) and when actually selecting the MS dash from applications would just boot the game in the drive instead. I then updated the softmod to 1.2.2 because it was on 1.1.8 prior, this said during the install that it won't touch the dashboard. Well, it now defaults to a different skin that I don't want, I can go to the options and selecting default will give me the previous blue one but upon every restart it will go back to this new skin. How to remedy this? The disc has options to restore C or E but I've no idea which is supposed to be which. And installing the MS dash has the same issues under 1.2.2. The other thing is, I've read that with persistent softmod selected in NKPatcher the console is supposed to always boot to the dashboard, but this is not how it works for me with either 1.1.8 or 1.2.2. It always boots to the game if there is a disc in the drive. BTW, what's the difference between between the "Video Mode (EEPROM Safe)" in the regular settings and the various video mode options in NKPatcher? -
I recently dug up my old OG Xbox (V1.0) from my parents' basement. It's been sitting for a while, and when I got to it, it was pretty rusted. Right now, it frags most of the time, cycling twice before flashing red and green, but occasionally it boots to an error screen. I'm testing without the disc drive or hard drive connected, so I think the error might be related to that. I haven't managed to get it to boot with the disc drive/HD connected but I'm not sure if that's relevant or just coincidence. It's stock, it hasn't been soft/hard modded and I'm the first person to open it. I’ve done a few console mods and handheld builds before, but this is my first time working on an Xbox. Any help would be really appreciated! Here’s what I’ve tried so far: Cleaned off as much rust as possible and repainted the metal case. I made sure to file off the paint on the contact points and confirmed continuity from the motherboard and PSU to the case. Removed the clock capacitor. There was a lot of gunk around it, but I didn’t spot any bulging or visible damage on the other caps. I reflowed a few of the components nearby that didn't look nice. I cleaned the area with vinegar and IPA. I also ordered a Console5 cap kit, which should arrive in a few days. Found a broken trace on the bottom of the board using this guide (though it's for a 1.1): Trace Corrosion Fix. Couldn't see the break, but my multimeter showed no contact between the points, so I ran a jumper wire. No power button issues so far, so not sure if it’s related to the fragging. Reflowed the solder points on the PSU connector for the power cord. Removed the CPU and GPU heatsinks, cleaned them, and applied new thermal compound. Checked the LPC voltages, and they seem normal according to this LPC Voltage Guide. I’m getting 5.1V and 3.3V. Tried the "3 pin hack" as a long shot in case it was a bad BIOS, but it didn’t seem to help. As recommended in this thread Once the cap kit arrives, I plan to swap out the capacitors, but I’m not sure what else to try after that. I haven’t spotted anything else visually wrong but I'm hoping someone more experienced will see something I can't. Thanks again. Google Photo Album with more pictures
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Hi, i have a hardmodded version 1.6 xbox running xbmc4gamers as the dashboard, and when im in the dashboard and navigating through menus everything is fine, however when I select a game you can clearly see it switch to like a mode that makes the picture horrible like a purple and green hue over everything and the resolution is blurry and it only occurs in game, the second I back out of the game and return to the dashboard the graphics are fine again. Ive replaced all the caps around the power connector, could it be a gpu issue? Ive reapplied thermal paste to both cpu and gpu, im using standard composite cables on a crt. It did the same when going through a hdmi converter too when i tried using a modern display. Any advice would be very much appreciated.
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Solution - It turns out that neither XBMC4Xbox 3.5.3 or Dashloader Customiser like being run from F. I moved both to E to test and both run perfectly. Anyone else noticed this behaviour before? I have an issue where a couple of apps don't display properly on screen.... The Apps in question are Dashloader Customiser and XBMC4Xbox, see pics below.... As you can see the controller image is missing on Dashloader Customiser as well as the cursor and XBMC is just not displaying the skin properly. As such, both apps are not easy to navigate lol Anbody have any ideas? I have tried redownloading the apps and copying fresh files to the console but the same thing happens. The exact same files work perfectly in another Xbox so I'm stumped. -
Decided it would be a fun idea to add a Xenium chip to my old xbox. Couldn't get the chip to run despite my best efforts so proceeded to remove the pin header and send it to someone a little more handy with a soldering iron. I put it all back together and all I'm getting is 2X restarts and then flashing lights. No power to DVD or HDD by the looks of things. Blank screen no video. Can anyone here spot anything that can be done? Thanks -
It appears there might be an SSD degradation issue affecting SSD setups on XBMC4Gamers, possibly related to the underlying Xbox system. I've tested multiple Samsung SSDs, including the 4TB EVO variants, using the StarTech adapter and a proper IDE cable. Initially, everything runs smoothly with near-instant boot times. However, over time, the boot time increases to about 15 seconds (notably with a blinking green light at the Cerbios logo), affecting all drive operations proportionately. This isn't a major issue and most users may not even notice, as the drive still performs relatively fast. My speculation is that something could be actively writing to the drive or that background operations occur during some power cycles. On one occasion, selecting Shutdown from the XBMC4Gamers menu caused the system to freeze with a faint buzzing sound, and the slowdown began on the next reboot. I'm unsure if there's a definitive solution to this issue besides wiping the drive and making a clean install. As a precautionary measure, I'm contemplating reverting to a spinning disk. I'm concerned that SSD degradation may worsen over time or potentially lead to complete setup corruption. I'm curious if others have encountered this issue and found any workarounds. It appears to be a common challenge when using a modern drive on older hardware that lacks SSD support functionalities. -
Hello everyone, I have a !.0 MOBO that I have recently installed Project stellar on along with the HD+ kit from MakeMhz. I had the ribbon cable to the video encoder professionally soldered on but the rest of the install I was able to complete myself. once i reassembled the unit I was able to get it to post with only the mod chip with no DVD or HDD drive but I had no audio only the splash screen. I then completely reassembled to see if it was an issue with no hard drive (shouldn't be i thought to myself) so unsurprisingly it still had no audio (but the picture is OUTSTANDING). anyway I took everything apart to check my work and now seem to have narrowed down the sound issue to hopefully a bad wire included in the kit or a setting issue on the MS DASH feel free to let me know your thoughts on the audio issue as well. BUT when going to try the MS DASH first i reassembled and now the mod chip itself (project stellar) wont boot idk if the xbox is bricked now or what, I seem to get power to the chip as seen by the little green indicator light on the bottom of the chip but the tiny screen does not display anything not even an error code. So I reconnected the chip to my PC and found that the screen itself does in fact work it displays "PC Mode" so I know the screen didn't die and all of the firmware and bios seem to be on the chip and website tells me that the chip is ready for install now. I figure I should get the chip working first before I can do anymore diagnosing on this thing. At this point I am lost. I'm just trying to make a good birthday present for my little brother. please any help is appreciated TIA!
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Hi everyone. I have a Phillips DVD drive that i have taken apart, cleaned and replaced the belt on. When i slide the tray all the way in, the laser mechanism doesn't "engage" (not sure about the correct term, but it doesn't move up like it should to read a disc if a disc is placed in). I manually slide the black plastic part at the front to get the laser to move up, but sliding the tray back and forwards won't do it on its own. If i plug this back in, when i open the drive, and try to close again, the laser still won't engage, and the drive just pops back out and stays out. If i leave the top off and manually slide the plastic, making the laser move up, then place a disc in and turn it on, it reads the disc perfectly. I can't seem to see any broken pieces. Does anybody know something that could be causing this from experience?
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So I hadn’t done this mod before and figured Id send it. Unfortunately I set a chip kinda off center and when I tried to fix it just created more issues for myself. I sadly damaged one of the legs pads on the chip next to the power by the CPU caps. The system kinda try’s to power on but it is only by slight fan movement over the heatsink (it’s a v1.1) then it turns off. It was doing this prior so it’s not acting worse. I plan to go back and look for solder splashes/bridging. Im worried though that the damaged caused will prevent it from ever working even if I do fix and potential bridges. I stepped away for the night to get fresh eyes later. However I’m concerned I might require professional help haha
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So, I got a modded Xbox off of a friend a few years back. It's been collecting dust on a shelf while i was modding 360s and messing with other things. Some console info: Motherboard Revision: 1.0 Kernel Version: 1.0.3944.1 TSOP Chip: ST-M29F080A In January i decided to play around with it and upgraded its mod with Rocky5s Softmodding Tool, although i had to use the Hardmod method show in MrMario2011s guide. I decided I want to hardmod the system and TSOP Flash rather than run the softmod. While digging through the file explorer on XBMC i found evidence of SmartXX which a google search turned up a modchip. So, I took to r/originalxbox and thanks to the help of @KaosEngineerfound that it must be a softmodded system and I'm good to flash the TSOP. I went on to download and burn a DVD-R with Bios Checker and burned another with the .iso file found in the download of "OGXbox Cerbios Disc v2.3.2". I bridged the R7D3 points on the top of the board and the R7R3 points on the back of the board, reassembled and popped on bios checker to get the info. I then popped in the OGXbox Cerbios v2.3.2. Once the disc launched, I read through the "Read Me" files on my PC and on the disc. After reading, I selected the following options: "Cerbios Disc - Static IP & No BFM Mode" --> "Flash Cerbios with XBlastOS" --> "Flash Cerbios UDMA2" --> "Flash Cerbios UDMA2 256KB" Once in XBlastOS I chose "Boot Onboard Bios". No dice... So, I copied/unpacked a clean .ini to my C partition, ran through the steps again and got to XBlastOS. This time I went to settings and saw Flash options. I selected: "HDD Flash" which gave me "C:\BIOS does not exist.' So, I tried: "CD Flash" which gave me "insert a disc with an img.bin file." I can't figure what step I'm missing or what I'm doing wrong here. Am I supposed to burn both the .ISO and .RAR files to the DVD-R rather than only the .ISO? OR am I missing something else entirely? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi all, Bit of advice please. I'm running XBMC4Gamers and I had to copy over my games again to my F drive after previously getting the artwork working as some games were corrupted when they were copied over, but now I can't get any art work or synopsis to show apart from the default thumbnail for each game. Resources is enabled, and trying to re-run the artwork installer doesn't do anything. Any ideas? Games launch fine. Edit: I have the games in alphabetical folders this time, so added custom paths in the artwork installer and it's installing artwork now.
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Hello, I have had a1.4 xbox with a duox modchip (v1) and I'm a little confused about how I can flash it. I bought this xbox pre chipped 15+ years ago and I've never touched anything past keeping exox dashboard updated. I took it out of storage after a good few years, I would guess I've not used it bar the odd nostalgic game session (It's part of a setup in my living room with an OG xbox a 360 and a series x on shelves) in around 10 years so I have no idea what the latest best things are. Also the xbox came with an 80GB hard drive installed. I have purchased a xbox-HDMI adapter (powered by usb) because my TV has 3 hdmi ports and that's it. literally nothing else. This works. I have an issue with my dvd drive in that the band need replacing, can't get more for a another 2 weeks. In the meantime is it possible to flash the chip without a disc? some places seem to say I must have a dvd and others allude to not needing a disk. I've been researching this for hours and just decided to ask on here. it works ok but I didn't flash the bios so I have never done it before. I was looking at increasing the capacity further but may need a bios flash. in avox settings the BIOS is unknown. So in short, what is the "goto" Bios and dashboard nowadays? Is it possible to do without a DVD drive? Could I do it by stripping the xbox DVD drive putting a disk in and reassemble? If I desperately need to? Bit drastic but I can't do anything for a few weeks. A bit of a bonus question. I had a game of FIFA 2003 last night and it played strange. Like it was sped up. Best description is like an emulator running at 1.5-2x speed. Some games don't boot. I don't know where to start with testing it. If anyone has an idea I'd appreciate it. EDIT: So I've backed up using evox. FTPd it to my PC. I noticed a bios folder. It has 3 files "EvolutionX M7 Bios.nfo" "EvoxM7_ef.bin" and "EvoxM7.bin" I can guess which previous version was. Can I just replace them and flash latest bios from evox launcher then? -
So I ordered a Pound HDMI Cable for my Xbox because my Sony Bravia 850h TV has NO COMPONENT hookups! I really don't mind low resolution when im OG Gaming, but the only TV in my house that has components is in my bedroom and that is not where everyone games. Unboxing the Pound HDMI Cable and hooking it up, I immediately had video drop outs every 5-15 seconds it didn't matter if it was dashboard, games, anything. I also had wavy lines. This was WITH the microusb plugged in and powered. Things i tried: 1) all different HDMI ports 2) different HDMI cables 3) microusb using powered adapter 4) microusb plugged into TV Nothing fixed it, so I recorded and sent my info to pound. Their customer service is top notch and they sent me a new cable. This is where things get interesting. New cable, FLAWLESS HD Video, no lines, nothing! Looks amazing on the dashboard, loaded up CoinOps8 PERFECT, then I started Fable and immediately got drop outs. UGH! I did a lot of testing and I believe the first cable was a hardware issue. The new cable I now believe it is an issue with Sony 4k TV's. The drop out does not occur on ANY 720p+ games: Soul Caliber 2, Nitro cart racing, Tony hawk Underground etc. I have tried EVERYTHING I can think of and am at my wits end. I wonder if Chimera or XBOX2HDMI will have the same issues on my TV. I am really thinking at this point the only real solution is the XBOXHD+ upgrade, but i was really hoping not to shell out 140$ as thats almost the cost of my entire mod, and I would like to keep the case as close to original as possible. Ideas/thoughts? Dashboard - NEW CABLE https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_V5lpQHS1kthf_ItQCE8xTvvxNZ-cJIR/view?usp=drivesdk Fable(not 720) NEW CABLE https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_GwN9ItYl2auE4bt9KUmFxkbBG712OYt/view?usp=drivesdk Tony hawk underground (720) NEW CABLE https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_SbNQVKtSctsCnHYc4cnUh4mq8cff8IS/view?usp=drivesdk
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Hello I'm having an issue successfully flashing a split Tsop using the xblast lite modchip. I've albeit believe I've successfully soldered d0, a15 and A19 to the modchip. I can see the split in xblast os, I can boot either split but it currently has a 1mb cerbios 2.02 on there. I can boot either bank from the modchip. My issue is with tsop_m7, I flash this to the 256k bank of the modchip and proceed to boot with hexen inserted that boots off the other bios. I get no display and a solid green lights, eventually the Xbox power cycles back to xblast os. I've also tried setting the front switches to boot the 256k bank on power on same issue but it'll power cycle every minute or 2. I've tried setting xblast os to boot bank 2 with the power button. Same issue The option "force tsop recovery" has been set to both tsop banks - no change I've also tried tsop_m7 on the 512k xblast lite bank - same issue I'm stuck, not sure what to try next with the exception of shortening the a15 wire as I know I gave it too much ( approx 8 - 10 cm) but would rather not mess around with it if it's fine. Thanks for reading, any help is appreciated
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Hi, I recently updated my Xbox with the Noctua NF-A6X25 FLX fan. The fan works fine, I set it to automatic on XBMC4Gamers settings. But as soon as I start a game from the HDD, I feel the rotation speed drop and it never increases during the game session. Only when I get back from the dash does it start to increase the revs until it reaches the desired temperature. What can I do? I don't think it's normal.
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Hey all, Having some issues here. I fired up my Xbox after some time and Xbox wasn't seeing my games on F and G. So I tried to reflash with M8+_16 from both slayer and HeXEn dvd with no luck. Here is the error I get. It was once working so not sure what's going on, I did reflow solder point and there are notl issues getting to a dashboard but my F and G will not show up. Also, I did not have the 1.6 bridges on the Modchip. Thank you for any help!
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Hello everyone, last night I installed the XEnium mod chip onto my 1.0 Japanese "if that makes any difference" xbox and I’m having a problem with my controller no longer working. XEnium boots up perfectly normal but I can not change any of the bios due to the controller not working. One of my attempts at trying to solve this issue saw a controller work momentarily but then stop. I've tried 3 different controllers "1 OEM and 2 knock offs" with no luck and I've tried every port. When the chip is unplugged the controllers work like normal but when the chip is plugged back in the controllers no longer work. I've only seen one other person on here with this problem and unplugging and plugging back in the chip seemed to work for them but it has not worked for me. I even tried reflowing all of my solder points to make sure my connections were okay and still nothing. My board is fine and hasn't had any capacitors leak on it so that's already ruled out. I'm running out of things to troubleshoot so I’m resorting to this forum. If anyone potentially knows any fixes for this and would like to help that would be greatly appreciated. Until then I'm going to keep troubleshooting to see what I can do. Thanks everyone.
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So I now have my cable to try and connect my Xbox to my PC. I have filezilla set up, I have gone into my adapter settings on my PC and changed the IPV4 settings to: 192.168.0.1 255.255.255.0 192.168.0.1 My settings in my Xbox are: STATIC 192.168.0.2 255.255.255.0 192.168.0.1 my settings screen does not show me the Port or the Max No. of Users In FileZilla I have typed in Host: 192.168.0.2 --- Username: xbox --- Password: xbox --- Port: 21 When I try to Quickconnect using FileZilla I get a Connection attempt failed with "ECONNREFUSED - Connection refused by server" error. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I have checked a lot of videos on Youtube, and it seems that I have entered everything correctly. Not being able to see the Port or the Max No. of Users doesn't help tho
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Hello Wondering if anyone else has issues with wingman xb not working with xenium launch menu or xblast menu? Using wingman and wireless 360 controller I get no response from the controller with xenium or xblast os. Assuming this must be driver issue as retail and other bios I've tried work fine..
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48