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Showing results for tags '1.6'.
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Hi everyone, this has me in a permanently befuddled state and I hope you mad scientists can help if I'm missing something obvious. I bought this Aladdin XT clone from eBay with two others. Those worked fine and they're long gone to good homes. This one however, has an odd problem. I've been able to get it to boot on several not-1.6 consoles, but I can't get it to boot on any 1.6. I've tested it with a 1.0, 1.4 and my own personal 1.1. It was loaded with EvoX and booted fine. So I put it in a 1.6 and it would FRAG. Wouldn't even boot my Hexen CD. I put it back in my 1.1 and flashed it with the 1.6 version of EvoX. Standard ecc 256k. It confirmed the flash was successful, so I tried putting it back in the 1.6 console. Still FRAGged. I figured my LPC rebuild wasn't solid. Rechecked the solder points and tried booting an OpenXenium chip...that booted just fine. Am I missing something? Thanks all!
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Been a bit bored as of late and wanted to see how low temps I could get. Microsoft in their infinite wisdom gave the CPU farrrr too much voltage: 1.7V! Nuts! Well the CPU itself runs perfectly fine at 1.3V (lowest the voltage reg will go without messing with the feedback loop). 1.0: Remove the 0ohm resistor on R2E4 1.6: Remove the 2 0ohm resistors on R2E7 & R2E3 The only drawback of doing this, is you'll no longer be able to push the CPU frequency over ~950MHz. The temperature screenshot is from my 1.6, I'm aware that the 1.6 does not have entirely accurate monitoring, but you can see a clear difference. Both were taken at a ~73F ambient with fan running at 20%. Enjoy.
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I just recently got a ModXo 3.0 RP2040 with a compatible Raspberry Pi (can't remember which one) and put Cerbios Hybrid 2.4.2 on it and I get no sound when using Cerbios, I loaded the onboard BIOS and surprisingly, I get sound but when I use Cerbios, I don't strangely, I can't figure out how to fix this, Everything inside the console is fine, and all solder joints on the chip are good. I am on a 1.6 original Xbox.
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I have a 1.6 revision board which shut down in the middle of using it. I have tested the PSU which is working correctly (have tried in another system also). I have traced the problem to this MOSFET - Q2F1 not outputting 5V.Can anyone guide me on a replacement? The numbers on it don't give me a good guide on an equivalent/compatible one.
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Well here goes I have an OG Xbox with a 1.6 board I was replacing the 5 CPU capacitors the 3300 6.3 volt and I may have done something very stupid I believe there's a possibility on two of the capacitors on the positive side I damaged a couple of via I was having a hard time to clean the holes out because of the large ground plane I don't really have the proper equipment now I see that so I did something very stupid and I used a small drill bit twisted in my fingers I may have ripped a couple of the through-hole via's and I'm wondering after I replace those capacitors does anybody have a reference point of where those positive legs should make continuity on the board so I can test to be sure that I didn't ruin this or have any link or reference information any help would be highly appreciated It's my sons console Yes I'm a moron I have not done this stuff in over 25 years I may or may not remember making this mistake before.... I can take it...
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i modded this xbox several years ago and it was working great. i installed an alladin chip on it and got tired of the limitations it caused. so i ordered an open xenuim chip for it and thought that i could just unplug the alladin and plug the OX chip in it's place and everything would work perfectly. however, i'm not getting a picture on the screen of my tv now. when i press the power button, the green eject button flashes a couple times and then stays solid green. what am i miss here? does the OX chip need to be wired differently than the alladin?
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I'm working on my second original Xbox (version 1.6) motherboard, trying to install a mod chip. Unfortunately, I've run into the same issue as with my first attempt. After completing the installation, the console refuses to power on. I've removed the mod chip, yet the console still won't turn on. Even after disconnecting all wires, there's no response. However, power is reaching the board—the LED on the mod chip lights up when plugged into the header socket. With my first motherboard, I used an LPC board, whereas on this second one, I opted for direct wiring. I'm confident my wiring and soldering are correct. The mod chip I'm using is the Aladdin XT Plus 2. Could the mod chip be causing this issue? It's the only constant between both attempts. But if the chip were the problem, why wouldn’t the console power on even after its removal? I'd really like to understand what's going on. At this point, I'm considering buying a pre-modded 1.6 motherboard with a chip installed. If anyone knows where I can find one, that would be much appreciated.
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Hi there, I've bought a crystal OG Xbox (which is in amazing condition), but unfortunately it won't launch any games or apps that stored on its hdd. It has got what looks like an Xecuter 2.6 or 2.6CE modchip. The console launches into UnleashX on either bank, with Xecuter 2.6 However, it won't launch any of the games which have been copied to the HDD. A splash screens appears (Xbox logo + game title), goes fuzzy momentarily, the same splash screen appears off-centre, and it returns to the Unleash menu The box won't run discs (official games, or Ogxbox installer discs) when in unleashx Won't launch official discs from msdash when chip is disabled Won't run most applications from Unleashx and also returns to the main Unleashx menu after (though it will run some bios apps, XCAT etc.) All the above turn the power LED on the Xbox red So, what to do, please? Do I need to reflash the modchip (after backing up the EEPROM)? Would flashing Cerbios, using Xblast, via FTP be best? Or could something else be the cause? And/or do I need to replace the DVD drive? I have been running XCAT on it today, maybe there will be something interesting on it. Many thanks! -
So I thought I was done with the 1.6 I recently fixed but it seems like there is only working audio after I reconnect the AV cable. I have tried component, composite and HDMI converter cable. All cables work with other consoles. So after a cold boot it has no audio, I reconnected the AV cable and the audio is working again... What could be causing this?
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The following content was taken from the Xbox scene discord. Courtesy of Haguero. Its only been 20+ Years but did you know you could flash the xyclops on 1.6 consoles? If not you do now thanks to our good friend @Prehistoricman you can load Cerbios onto your 1.6 & no modchip or softmod is required. More info will be released soon but until then enjoy this video. The scene still delivering after 20+ years 20250502_022211_1.mp4 My 2 cents... This is big news for 1.6 consoles, no more will you need to softmod or modchip your 1.6 to get Cerbios running. No more LPC rebuilds This is akin to TSOP flashing an earlier revision console. Imo a modchip with PrometheOS installed is still the best way to hack an xbox, simply becasue of the extra features it brings but either way @Prehistoricman has smashed it outta the park with this discovery. Great work yet again mate- 12 replies
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Hello, So i have this issue with my OG Xbox 1.6: after installing Cerbios v2.4.2 (i tried different revisions and it's the same - but it doesn't do that with EvoX 8+, so it's not an hardware issue) some games have a noticeable warping in the upper part of the screen, and in others, like Conker Live&Reloaded, the screen remains black after the first loading screen. I'm using UnleashX dash with composite scart on a CRT and these games are set to PAL (60) or NTSC-J, for example Unreal Championship or Metal Wolf Chaos. Only if i set them to NTSC they don't have the warping issue, but i don't like the NTSC colors. Games like Halo 2, Morrowind, Doom 3 and Arx Fatalis works flawlessly if set on PAL. Are there any solutions to this issue?
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I’ve got a weird one here. I’m repairing another lot and I’ve run across an odd one. It was a stock 1.6 that gave about 2 seconds of flubber sound before it cuts out and no video at all. It’s not throwing any errors after leaving it on for a few minutes. Still has a solid green light. I popped in a mod chip and still the same result. Then I starting a few tests. All tests were run with and without a chip. Here’s what I have tried so far. -Composite, component, and HDMI adapter all give same results -Built a new HDD for the mod chip -Changed the 5 caps near PSU (Clock cap doesn’t seem to have leaked at all and hasn’t been changed, yet) -Different, working disc drive -Different IDE and disc power cables -Cleaned A/v port -Applied pressure to port and graphics chip. I’ve run into a bunch of dead ends on the web. Some similar issues that had different solutions or none posted. All suggestions are welcome. Let’s brainstorm
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R3DUX - Xecuter 3 Crystal, 1.6 Control Panel, LCD, X3CP has a custom led ring and led controller ports and power and eject led £300
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Hi New here and looking for help. My two sons are home for Christmas. As every year they love to play some Burnout on Xbox. The first day it worked as usual, but yesterday it was completely dead. The power cord is working. Tested with multimeter. I’ve taken it apart trying to trace with multimeter. Not really sure what I’m doing. I attach some images. There is a wire soldered inside. Is it a mod? What might be the reason and can I fix it right away? Any guide out there? Jimmy
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thanks to redherring32 we are now able to safely remove the clock cap in a 1.6 rev xbox. research and testing done by redherring32
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Hi I’m starting my second fix and this is something I’ve never encountered before. The Xbox is a 1.6 and does boot normal without the mod chip. I have tried several mod chips from working consoles. When I connect the modxo it wil start then shutdown and start again to successfully load prometheos 1.4. What could cause this?
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I was FTP'ing stuff to my 1.6, it was going for about 14 hours OK then it locked up, I turned it off and on and it tried to kick in twice by starting to go green then restarting before anything comes on the screen then the third time it started the light flashing from green to red I thought maybe my mod chip was playing up so I desoldered it and tried the Xbox, exact same behaviour, no signal to screen and flashing red and green.. The boards had all new caps only a few months ago. What could it possibly be? I looked at the board under zoom on my phone and can't see any obvious signs or problems anywhere. -
This is an odd one. Various Emuxtras video collections have been causing me issues with Madmab emulators, some preview videos play, others lock up the Xbox, if I delete all the ones that lock up the emulator the Xbox is fine, it will play 90% of the videos, as soon as it hits one it doesn't like it locks up. I've been on this problem for a couple of weeks or more. I found installing the latest emulator versions has helped sometimes with some emulators, and they no longer lock playing preview videos, others still lock up such as the Colecovision emulator, NeoGensPlusGX and the PSX emulator. On some of the Madmab emulators it won't even acknowledge there are any videos in the video folder, it will just leave the video preview window blank but will still lock up if I hit a game with a known lockup video. Another thing, there was a non-calibrated controller joystick problem with aftermarket controllers causing freezing on some of the emulators, I was using an aftermarket controller so was affected by this, updating versions or just plugging in my stock controller resolved this freezing problem scrolling the menus. All that did is complicated my problem even worse before I saw in the changelogs that was a problem so I was aware of it and could establish when that was the cause of the freezing. At first, I thought perhaps corrupted videos, but today I proved that wrong by removing the HDD from my 1.6 Xbox and putting it into my 1.1 Xbox, suddenly the problem is entirely gone, all preview videos work fine on every emulator. Now I'm totally confused, it's not a software problem, unless it's a 1.6 compatibility problem I'm not aware of, it's a Pal 1.6 Crystal Limited edition Xbox, all new capacitors and no known hardware problems, without the preview videos all emulators work well as do all Xbox Games. Even if my skin isn't set to play the preview videos if the videos are in the folder and I scroll the games it will lock on the games that have the videos that seem to cause the problem. If I change the time that it starts to play the preview video from half a second to 5 seconds or more I can scroll the menu without it locking up, as long as I don't pause on one of the bad game's that I know their video locks it up. If I just disable where it has the option to play movies in the emulator it never locks up. I thought I'd reach out and see if anyone else has encountered this, it would be odd my 1.6 has a fault that only causes freezing in emulators when playing video previews and it works perfectly elsewhere. I spent about a week FTPing all the contents of the 6tb hard drive in it to another Xbox, it didn't freeze once being left on all that time doing the FTP. It gets countless days of gameplay with no freezing. It's running a mod chip with Cerbios 242 on a red Startech adapter, the hard drive in it is brand new and perfectly fine, tested with WD Daigs on a long test. I'm at the point of giving up on this one but thought I'd ask first. My next test I guess is another 1.6 XBox with the same HDD and see if it acts the same.
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Hello Xbox community! I'm reaching out for help with a persistent issue on my Xbox console. For those who haven't seen my previous posts, let me explain the situation: My Xbox is experiencing some strange graphical glitches that I can't seem to resolve. Here's what's happening: 1. When the console is left idle, it automatically plays a video after a while, and everything looks perfectly normal. 2. However, as soon as I start a game or navigate through game menus, annoying graphical issues appear. To give you a clear picture of the problem, I've recorded a video demonstrating these issues. You can watch it here: https://mega.nz/file/nEZgWSxR#h9RkD4JjgEkZdpjB0PqyvOnfPwaAwu3EGuhDXBekJwk I've already tried a few solutions suggested by helpful community members: 1. I gently tapped on the Xcalibur chip, as some suggested this might reseat it if it was loose. Unfortunately, this didn't solve the problem. 2. I don't have a hot air gun for circuit boards, so I couldn't try reflowing the chip. I'm really at a loss here and would greatly appreciate any insights or suggestions. Has anyone encountered similar issues or have ideas on what might be causing this? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. This community has been fantastic, and I'm hoping we can crack this mystery together! -
Hi I have a 1.6 Xbox with X3 chip and a Xbox 1.6 running Cerbios and the fan noise is extremely louder on my cerbios xbox , peeking at about 59db rather than the x3 non cerbios at about 43db on average. As suggested ... I have dropped the fan speed down in the bios tp 50 and turned on and off again but made no difference at all has anybody got any thoughts on this ? I assume it loads the ini each time you load it or do I need to do something else ? I just made a copy turned it to 50 and ftp's back over. ; Fan Speed 0 = Default, 10-100 = Manual Control, Supports increments of 2's FanSpeed = 50 -
I've recently bought a used Xbox, only to find it doesn't turn on. Plugging it in with a known good power cable, neither the power nor the DVD drive button have the console showing so much as a single sign of life. No noise, no lights, nothing. As I was planning to mod it (and replace the capacitors) anyway, I opened it up to try and diagnose the problem. So far, however, I've come up short a definite culprit. Initially I suspected the clock capacitor, but it seems to be fine to my (amateur) eye. There are some other capacitors that look problematic, but I don't quite see why they should prevent the console powering on. There's also some goop I cannot identify on the power supply. Some people I showed it to said it could be epoxy or some other insulating material that got spilled. I've come here to ask for opinions from people who are experienced with the console. Is replacing the bad capacitors and clock capacitor likely to bring this thing back? Is the goop a problem in any way? Is my console beyond saving? I've added some pictures of the guts below to hopefully help anyone who's helpful enough to put up with my questions. Overview: Closer view of the main board (mostly to show this really is a 1.6): Clock capacitor: Unidentified goop: Bulging capacitors: To close, I'd like to ask you to be patient with me. This is my first hardware project, so I'm gonna do this wrong in all sorts of ways, no doubt. I'm also happy to provide more info as requested (and as I am able to gather it).
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I've been wondering lately about creating a small flex PCB interposer for 1.6 RAM upgrades. The QFP-100 pads are relatively long compared to the actual chip legs, it would be much easer to bend down a flex and solder it directly to the pads than it is to solder to the legs of the original chip (especially when using Hynix chips for the upgrade). I downloaded KiCad but I've never designed a PCB. I can't imagine it would be that difficult to create this flex PCB using an existing footprint placement with slightly extended pads. Has anyone else thought about this? Perhaps someone has already made something like this and I just don't know about it.
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EDIT - The console is now fixed and connecting to the net perfectly. The culprit was a faulty ICS1893AF chip and after doing a transplant from another dead 1.6 console with known working internet, everything is up and running. Thanks @prtscn for the pointer. OP - I have a 1.6 from YEARS ago that has never been able to connect to the net. I just sat and replaced the Ethernet port with a known good replacement from another 1.6 board I have that has other issues, and, still no internet connectivity. Anyone have any ideas what else I can swap from the other board that might kick the network into working order?
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Hi all, I have a spare x2 chip I want to drop into a 1.6 but haven't got the cable for the alternate 5v, I dont really want to solder to the connector pins on the chip if avoidable, I was wondering if I can just restore the 5v to the LPC and if so should I take it from the normal point (transistor leg by AV port) or is there a point underneath that is usable? I have rebuilt the LPC already apart from the 5v point Thanks
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I'm having an unlucky day, I have a 1.6 Xbox that's barely been used since new, a crystal box, It's just had a softmod on it although I'd just ordered a mod chip that I could install on it but it hasn't arrived yet. Either way, I went to fire it up today and completely dead, press eject or power and nothing, doesn't try to come on at all as if there is no power going to it. I fired it up last week when I pulled it out of storage and it worked fine. So, it's looking like potentially the power suplly has failed. In my collection of goodies I found an Xbox power supply, it's brand new never used in box. Here are some photos of it. It has both types of power connector. A switch to go between 120 and 240 volts, I'd need the 240. Do you think this would be fine to use on a 1.6 XBox for an Australian 240v Xbox?
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48