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About Me

  1. Been a bit bored as of late and wanted to see how low temps I could get. Microsoft in their infinite wisdom gave the CPU farrrr too much voltage: 1.7V! Nuts! Well the CPU itself runs perfectly fine at 1.3V (lowest the voltage reg will go without messing with the feedback loop). 1.0: Remove the 0ohm resistor on R2E4 1.6: Remove the 2 0ohm resistors on R2E7 & R2E3 The only drawback of doing this, is you'll no longer be able to push the CPU frequency over ~950MHz. The temperature screenshot is from my 1.6, I'm aware that the 1.6 does not have entirely accurate monitoring, but you can see a clear difference. Both were taken at a ~73F ambient with fan running at 20%. Enjoy.
  2. I've recently bought a used Xbox, only to find it doesn't turn on. Plugging it in with a known good power cable, neither the power nor the DVD drive button have the console showing so much as a single sign of life. No noise, no lights, nothing. As I was planning to mod it (and replace the capacitors) anyway, I opened it up to try and diagnose the problem. So far, however, I've come up short a definite culprit. Initially I suspected the clock capacitor, but it seems to be fine to my (amateur) eye. There are some other capacitors that look problematic, but I don't quite see why they should prevent the console powering on. There's also some goop I cannot identify on the power supply. Some people I showed it to said it could be epoxy or some other insulating material that got spilled. I've come here to ask for opinions from people who are experienced with the console. Is replacing the bad capacitors and clock capacitor likely to bring this thing back? Is the goop a problem in any way? Is my console beyond saving? I've added some pictures of the guts below to hopefully help anyone who's helpful enough to put up with my questions. Overview: Closer view of the main board (mostly to show this really is a 1.6): Clock capacitor: Unidentified goop: Bulging capacitors: To close, I'd like to ask you to be patient with me. This is my first hardware project, so I'm gonna do this wrong in all sorts of ways, no doubt. I'm also happy to provide more info as requested (and as I am able to gather it).
  3. thanks to redherring32 we are now able to safely remove the clock cap in a 1.6 rev xbox. research and testing done by redherring32
  4. Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  5. I've got a 1.6 with good traces that won't power on. If I hold the power button in I can hear the HDD spinning but nothing else happens, no video output, the led's don't light up, nothing.. Before I go about ordering the replacement transistor for the mb, I'd like to test the psu to make sure it's working, and I don't have any other 1.6's around to try it out in. I've been looking around online for 45 mins and can't find anything specific to testing the psu for correct voltage (it's a Delta if that matters, and everything looks flawless on it, no obvious problems.) If anyone can help me out with this, or has another idea of what may be the problem, I'd appreciate it immensely (and yes I have a multimeter handy :P) Cheers, Jim
  6. I have a 1.6 revision board which shut down in the middle of using it. I have tested the PSU which is working correctly (have tried in another system also). I have traced the problem to this MOSFET - Q2F1 not outputting 5V.Can anyone guide me on a replacement? The numbers on it don't give me a good guide on an equivalent/compatible one.
  7. So I have a 1.6 Xbox that I softmodded with UnleashX few years ago and it's been great. Last week I was playing it just fine, got tired and turned it off for the night. Couple days later it wouldn't boot up at all, id hit the power button and it would attempt to boot for like half second then turn off. Opened it up to see 5 capacitors bulging on the bottom right of the motherboard under the CPU/GPU area. So I ordered replacement caps and installed them and now I'm getting a FRAG with no video output. I've been trying to diagnose for few days. I've swapped out the power supply with known working 1.6 PSU, I've tried swapping back to my original HDD from before the softmod all to no help. I've checked voltages at PSU connector, my issue seems to be the inductor (L2F1) isn't getting the 1.7vdc it should be getting from researching on this site. I've checked the transistor next to the L2F1 and getting 5vdc on one side and 1.7vdc on the other. I've checked the transistor (Q7C2) and getting 3.3vdc at the collector. Any help would be appreciated as I'd hate to make it a parts xbox thanks. Edit: I mightve connected a older revision PSU (1.1-1.4v) without noticing in a attempt to rule out power supply. But have since checked two different 1.6v PSU with no effect.
  8. Edited by moderator: Originally posted in similar thread "Xbox 1.1 dead no power". Moved @nerdbombing's post to a new topic thread. I'm having a similar issue with a 1.6 I took the box completely apart to put it into another shell. The box had worked before, no issues, fully softmodded with an upgraded HDD. I wast just trying to put it into a nicer shell as the one it was in had a cracked corner. After putting it into the new shell, nothing turns on. I thought it may have been the front switch or PSU but I replaced both with known good ones. It simply doesn't react to the power buttons, nothing comes on, no lights, and my visual inspection didn't find anything. What's a good place to start diagnosis from here? (Ebay#2)
  9. When pressing the power button, nothing happens. Sometimes it would make the fan reach max speed 3 times and flash orange for a split second. Sometimes it would do something in between and slightly nudge the fan to spin and nothing more. I should mention my xbox has a modchip. Based off the information i have gathered from forums and reddit posts, this is what i know; - IDE cable and disc drive are not the cause of the problem, everything is disconnected from the motherboard - power button and eject button work - checked the board for corrosion, cleaned with iso. alchohol - fuse on power supply is good - checked voltages on power supply ATX connector (connected it to the motherboard, stuck the probes inside the connector where the wires go and pressed the power button. This probably isnt the way to do it i know). The standby and power on voltages match, but after a few seconds the drop back to zero (excluding the orange wires which do have standby voltage) because i presume the xbox doesnt boot - checked the transistor at Q7C2 and i am not getting a match for the voltages. 1.1v on the collector and 0.6 on the emitter. I might have read the values wrong, but the still dont reach what the are supposed to Not losing hope, open to all suggestions
  10. I installed and Open Xenium mod chip and the MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI mod in my old 1.6 Halo SE Xbox, along with a cheap SSD. I initially had everything running, & was able to boot into the EvoX dashboard as well as play games. Once I put all the case screws in & set it up, it booted normally once. After that boot, any other attempt was met with 3 failed boots followed by flashing red and green. I disconnected all the wires, reconnected them, and tried again. Again, 1 normal boot followed by endless FRAG results. Like in Greyleaf's thread, my Open Xenium chip doesn't light up at all with the FRAG boot attempts. I am a soldering novice, having only completed a Boxy Pixel GBA SP Unhinged build and GBC build. I did get some recommendations from a fried for better flux partway through the mod. I accidentally lifted a pad on the HD+ ribbon cable, but I ran a small wire to the trace farther up the cable . My first attempt to solder the cable had some issues. I completely removed & resoldered it. When the system boots, I do have functional video output. If I remove my Open Xenium chip from the pin connector, it boots into an error 16 page (I guess no surprise with a modified dashboard & unlocked drive). I replaced the clock capacitor and reflowed the solder for the Open Xenium. None of this has solved the issue. I also made a Reddit thread when I started troubleshooting. I think I've written the important details here, but it's there if I missed anything important. Summary: 1.6 Xbox Halo SE Delta DPSN-96DP PSU Open Xenium mod chip MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI port SSD upgrade I'm a novice Successfully boots once after reassembly (so far at least) Second boot attempt leads to 3 boot attempts then FRAG No lights on Open Xenium chip during failed boot process Normal lights on XboxHD+ during failed boot Disconnecting Open Xenium mod chip gives error 16 boot screen Looking for any troubleshooting help. Thanks.
  11. From finland, with xbox original with bad psu.
  12. Hi, i´m Stef from Germany and recently got my hands on a apperantly "half"- working Classic XBOX for free, MFD 2005. Since almost nothing was included (no AVIF Adapter, Cables of the Controllers were cut and are not available), I removed the AVIF-Socket and tried to get at least a Composite output on Pins 21&23 by bridging Pins 11&12 in order to select Mode 2 (both seen from the underside of the PCB). I have no signals on any Video Output Pin except for Scart Blanking. The Box starts up, LED turns solid green, Powerbutton opens the DVD tray, box turns automatically off after some time of inactivity. Before i made the 11&12-Bridge to select the mode, the Box started to Flash Green/Red after some time, so at least it recognizes the Mode settings and acts accordingly. Likewise it could be a fried BIOS, but i have some electronics experience (small analog Oscilloscope in 10 MHz Range, a 8 Channel Logic Analyzer and Fluke MM is available) and i´d like to check the Signal Flow / In-out of the - i assume - Video Converter Chip straight below of the AVIF-Plug. Is there any pinout description for this specific IC available or any additional documentation regarding signalling on the board available? Caps seem to be ok, Voltages are in their specific range. Fiddling around with heat in order to detect a loose IC connection or pressing on the board on some areas doesnt´t change anything. Thank you very much! Best regards Stef
  13. I have way more than I need, but I do have them in the off chance that a PCB is wanted instead of a manual rebuild. The fug was I thinking!?
  14. This Xbox had one issue of being placed in a different case and shorting. I replaced the faulty 2T transistor and all was working. Voltages were normal on all rails. I then was getting glitchy video on composite cable so I changed the large caps on the board and the video issue went away. It powered on and work fine all day. Even would power cycle multiple times without issue and run stable with any game I threw at it or just stay running for hours. The next day it would not power on at all. I changed the two large output caps on the PSU and reseated the modchip and it booted and ran perfectly so I played Doom3 for a few hours without issue. Shutdown normally. Next day it would not power on again.
  15. Once installed to be able to boot cerbios and retail bios on a 1.6 Do I solder d0 on this lpc rebuild to ground and then the 1.6 point on the OpenXenium chip.
  16. Hi I'm currently doing a lpc rebuild on a 1.6 og xbox and I've managed to lift the trace on the trace near R7P4 does anyone know if theres somewhere else on the board I can pick this up? Thanks in advance.
  17. Hi friends! as title says I get error 16 every time I boot with Cerbios , and i get that error with m8+ too when i turn on Xbox with eject tray ,everything were fine before I decided to give 128mb ram upgrade a shot on my 1.6 OGxbox , I have deleted and formatted all the partitions and installed everything from scratch still i am getting that error , I dont know that if it is hardware related or not please help me I am out of patience by trial and error
  18. Greetings all! First time posting anything but have gathered a lot of great tips and fixes from this forum for a few years now. This problem has me stumped though. Here’s the situation: The xbox boots fine to the ms dash. I can access the hdd, copy saves to memory unit (or usb via adapter), browse settings, etc. The eject button on the dvd player just flashes green. There’s no disc in the drive, it doesn’t make any horrible noises, it won’t open, and there’s nothing impeding it from opening. I took it apart, removed a lot of dust et al, cleaned the laser, checked to see that the manual eject via the release button worked, double checked the tray side rails, etc. Everything looked normal. Reassembled and had the same problem listed above. I put in a known good drive and that remedied the non stop green light flashing so I thought I’d figured out the issue. I go to test a disc and the known good drive starts to not eject or close intermittently. Additionally it won’t do anything with the disc. If I put a few known good and un scratched games it the drive just flashes green forever. It never gives a dirty disc type error or anything and again this is a drive I know works (tested it right before I pulled it out and put it for test in the current Xbox). I’m stumped. I thought about changing out power and ide just to see. Swapped out two known good AV cables just for grins. No effect. Nothing on the MB looks bulging and I can’t see and trace rot,etc on the top at least. Any ideas? Thank you, MaGee
  19. I'll do my best to describe the strange issue... I received a dead 1.6 xbox. Wouldn't power on. I changed all the bulging caps that were noticeably damaged. NOT all of them. (Maybe I should) Now the xbox powers on and works flawlessly, HOWEVER, when I power down the console. The console doesn't power back up. But, when I pull the power cord from the back and let it sit for a bit, it can power back on normally. I tried doing a google search and search this site with no luck. Help! Ideas?
  20. Intro Since the beginning of time (2004) it was known that the 1.6 was missing the unpopulated footprints for the extra 4 RAM chips and this made the upgrade impossible. I was thinking recently that if all the signals for the extra RAM chips are still available on the board, we can add RAM to the 1.6 by just connecting all the necessary signals. After the tutorial segment I'll go into why this mod works. I'll also post a video on YouTube at some point. Be warned: this is more difficult that a 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade Tutorial Required items Everything mentioned in the 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade tutorial: https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:RAM_Upgrade 4x 90mm long mod-wire. I used enamelled wire from a transformer. ~8 hours spare time Step 1: flash the modified XBlast OS BIOS XBlast OS (as a BIOS) is super helpful in doing this install correctly. It will boot with any number of extra RAM chips and includes a test for the additional RAM. XBlast OS will not show the 128MB test option on a v1.6 Xbox, so I've gone ahead and rebuilt it from source with that check removed. xblast_os_v0.60.bin Alternative Download Link: https://mega.nz/file/eeAwTZKQ#aaFcbACj3htA6cEtKwoiy1L7uK93o4YwUSqkGBEsUz8 If you don't trust my build, this is the line of code that needs removing: At this point, I suggest booting it up and running the test. The test is under Settings > Tools > 128MB RAM test Step 2: Remove the motherboard from the Xbox Step 3: Place the new RAM chip on top of an existing chip You'll want to solder down the corner pins first to get a good mechanical bond and so that you can adjust the alignment. I do this by pushing down pins 30 and 31 and soldering them down to the chip below. Then I check the alignment of the rest of the pins. If it's bad, then the chip can be nudged into position while reflowing the two pins. Then solder the two pins opposite. Step 4: Push down the rest of the pins Except pin 28! That is the chip select pin and it is unique for each RAM chip. Leave this pin floating in the air and don't solder it yet. Pin 30 is marked on the PCB. The pins come in a kind of ‾‾\__ shape. When you push them down, the whole pin will rotate around this end -> ‾‾\__ . I like to also push down the tail ‾‾\__ <- of the pin to get more contact with the chip below. Step 5: Start soldering all the pins Very little extra solder is required. Use lots of flux. I like the tacky flux that usually comes in syringes. I also like the drag-soldering method. If there's any excess solder, you will get shorts between pins and this extra solder can be wicked away. The new pins won't naturally touch the pins below even after pushing them down. Step 6: Check for shorts and missing connections For the first pass, I like to go in with a microscope and nudge each pin (of the new chip) with a cold soldering iron tip. If the pin moves easily, it is not soldered. Also check for shorts at the same time. If you have the patience (and want it to work first try without frying your Xbox), check for shorts and continuity with a multimeter. I skipped this the first time and got bitten! Best to clean the pins and pads with IPA before checking with the multimeter. Step 7: Add the chip-select wire First, figure out which bank you are adding: Then, find the chip-select solder point: Bank 1 CS is left of the label for C4P10 Bank 2 CS is between the labels for C4R12 and C4R13 Bank 3 CS is left and above the label for C4P21 Bank 4 CS is between and above the labels C4R1 and C3R1 For banks 2 and 3, the chip-select wire can go through the hole to the left of the GPU. For bank 2, 90mm may be too short, so check the wire length and cut it as short as possible. I removed the GPU heatsink to access this hole. At this point, it should look something like this: Step 8: Reassemble and test in XBlast For a quick test, I don't bother with adding the fan, GPU heatsink, HDD, or DVD drive. The test in XBlast should look like what I first posted on reddit: If the Xbox reboots twice and FRAGs, check the bios selection (if you have one available). A normal BIOS will not accept between 1 and 3 extra RAM chips. If the Xbox reboots three of four times (and it's faster than a normal FRAG sequence) check for shorts. This happened to me. Step 9: Repeat for the other 3 chips The first one is the hardest. Step 10: Reflash with your favourite BIOS Some 1.6 BIOSs won't support 128MB. The X3 BIOS works just fine and it's the only one I tested so far. xblast_os_v0.60.bin
  21. Anybody have a 120V PSU out of an Xbox v1.6 they wouldn’t mind parting with? The Delta variant PN is 96DP. Not sure what the other ones are. Thanks!
  22. I haven't used my og Xbox for a while I decided I wanted it set up and to play it again did all of that and it goes to boot up gives me a display but shows the contact service center with error code 12. I looked up the code and it points to the dvd drive. I've opened it cleaned it and still no luck. What are my options would a hard mod and no dvd bios be a better fix than replacing the drive? Or would buying a parts machine be better. Thanks Kyran.
  23. I just picked up a 1.6 Xbox and it does not turn on. Whenever I hit the power button there is 3.3V, 5V and 12V all present for about 1 second then nothing. All standby voltages are good too. Idk whats wrong.
  24. I think this is just a "replace the power supply" issue (DPSN-96DP), but I'd appreciate anyone's insight if they have advice: (Video of issue) https://imgur.com/INZWEUK Summary -- push power, no LED ring lights, X3 mod chip front indicator panel briefly lights up, then turns off. Eject button has same result. Case fan briefly twitches when power/eject is pressed. Continuously holding the power button 'on' keeps the lights on the X3 front panel lit, and the hard drive can be heard spinning up, but then nothing appears and it powers back off after release. Removed the motherboard, examined the traces to see if there was any rot -- looks really, really clean, nothing was visible after several minutes of inspecting. (Shot of a section of board) https://imgur.com/HIuVLGm CPU capacitors look a little sussy and puffed, I should replace, but nothing leaking onto the board. Clock capacitor looks good, too, but I think I should replace that as well. (CPU caps) https://imgur.com/NR7H58m (Clock cap) https://imgur.com/pFDgFPA Probably will get capacitors from Console5, I have enjoyed ordering from them before. Should I just replace the power supply? Is that what this issue looks like? https://imgur.com/FVbfgB6 (Delta power supply) Thanks anyone that feels like replying! This is my daily driver, I'd like to have it back!
  25. Redherring32 (of OpenTendo fame) has been putting in some research into bypassing the need for a clock capacitor on the 1.6 revision Xbox; unlike the prior models a 1.6 will not boot without it. By removing R7P3 and R7P6 current limiting resistors which go to the positive leg of the clock cap and then connecting 3v3 standby voltage to that same leg, you can remove it entirely and still have a functioning system.

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