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Showing results for tags '1.6'.
Found 43 results
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So I got a Halo Edition Xbox off of ebay to find that it only stays on for 20 minutes before shutting off, the power button does not function, naturally I thought of corrosion on the traces. Upon examining the underside of the board I found no visible corrosion, my question is, which traces do I need to jump in order to fix it? I'm a bit stumped, any help would be much appreciated.
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I recently bought a Xbox Crystal edition with 1.6 revision board. I’m told the HDD has been upgraded to a 7200RPM 160gb seagate drive and it has an aladdin XT mod chip. It worked fairly well for a couple of days, crashing once or twice and showing error code 07 or 21 a couple of times. I have some tolerance for this kind of thing from old hardware. This morning, however, it was a nightmare to get working. Error codes 07 and 21 came up (mainly 07). It booted up a couple of times operating very slowly and not recognising the HDD. The times I have got it working, games have crashed after about 20 minutes claiming that the disc is damaged even though running from HDD. Any ideas!?!
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Attempting a OpenXenium 1.6 mod and there appears to be an issue with the LPC board. I had it all completed and OpenXenium screen came up but after about 1-2 minutes (sometimes less) the fan will speed up, orange light flashes and Xbox powers down which appears to be either a overheating issue or there maybe some solder splatter I cannot see. I'm more than likely going to remove the board and wire it instead, or at least this is what I would like to do. Is there a diagram out there that shows where the header pins should be wired? I have looked and have not seen anything. I do have another board but would rather wire it if this is possible. Thank you!
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Hey guys, I've got a 1.6 Xbox that only spins the fan when I hold the power button. As soon as let off the power button, the fan stops. There's no video, and the xbox's eject light does not light up at all. The xbox last worked a few days ago. I unplugged it and when I plugged it back in, the above started. I've checked the motherboard and the power supply and there are no obvious burn marks or blown capacitors. I also checked the transistor next to the clock capacitor and it showed 3.25V when the power supply is plugged in. My one area of concern are the five 3300 uF capacitors next to the power supply connection on the motherboard. The tops look a tiny bit bulged. See the attached pics. Any suggestions on further troubleshooting steps? Should the five caps be replaced? Thanks for your help.
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I have a 1.6 xbox that i softmodded using rockys softmod, this somehow suffered an error 16 (cant set clock). I fixed it by using my x3 box to rebuild the hdd (both boxes have nulled keys) after rebuilding the box back to stock by ftping the Clean C and E files to the hdd i put it back in the 1.6 box and booted. All worked perfectly, i set the clock and re softmodded, ftp'd some games, emus and apps across and all was good. However it had been unplugged for the night last night, plugged it in this morning and booted and got the damn error 16 again. I though 1.6 xbox's didnt suffer the same capacitor problem as the older boxes and also that rockys softmod avooided the clock issue?? Any ideas anyone before i go through the whole rebuild process again??
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Xbox turn on by itself after plugging to power mains. It is modded with alladin chip oldskool original. Tried different power supply, same thing, i had disconnected power button, controller ports, still, problem remains. Board looks clean. What could be causing such thing? Thanks.
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Hey there, I have a chipped 1.6 and I'm using it on my LG 4K TV via component cable, I'm experiencing image drop out (see the video below). I've tried 3 different sets of cables, I've changed the Xbox to NTSC to enable HD video mode. Is there anything you people can recommend for me to try? I'm willing to try anything just so I can get this issue resolved. Thanks! Video link:
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Hey guys! I made a video guide on how to install / setup the OpenXenium modchip on a 1.6 OG xbox including an LPC rebuild installation. These chips are not much more than the Alladins prebuilt and significantly cheaper if you want to build one yourself. They're way more feature rich as well and support multiple bios' + LCD support. I'd highly recommend these chips my dudes. Enjoy and let me know if you have any questions.
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SO when I turn it on, it starts and stops a few times before it finally gets going and then when it does I get no image or sound and the light just flashes red and green. At first I thought it was my IDE adapter on my new hard drive, but when I replaced the unnamed brand one with a startech it still did it. To be clear, my xbox DOES work if I keep fucking with the power button and I can play games normally (Have not extensively tested to see if it randomly shuts off or anything after a long period of time. Anyone know what the problem could be? -
What should I do now? I got a copy of truehexen 2019 and Hexen 2018 here, trying to figure out what I should do from here to make it look nicer and get the most out of this. The chip I used is an Aladdin XT+4032
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Ok I want to install my x3 that is on 1.6 board to a 1.0 board the problem is that the modchip has all the bios flashed to 1.6 is it possible for me to reflash the bios to work on the 1.0 board don’t want to mess anything up
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Hi Guys I'm getting this issue with my Enter the Matrix game(NTSC). I am using an NTSC-J 1.6 Xbox with an aladin mod chip running M8plus (EvoX). I tried ripping Enter the Matrix to the console and when I play it, I get a black screen with a couple green dots. I then tried to run it straight from the Disc and get the exact same error. I then put the game in my 1.4 softmodded pal xbox and the game loads just fine. Does anyone know why this is? I have attached an image of the blank screen with dots.
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Hey guys, Due to the current situation in the world I have decided to finally install my mod chip. I do have a few questions regarding the install. I have read many guides and watched several videos on how to install these chip(aladdin xt plus2) and I rather not cut the trace on the motherboard. I found this video and I do like the idea of having the chip not light up while the xbox is off and not cutting the trace, Now that being said I know the internet is filled with people who find ways to do things differently but are not the right way to do them(I am not bad mouthing this gentleman) . Now my questions are 1- will installing the chip this way damage my xbox(short/Long term) 2-Is there any guides that you know of that are better(please link if possible) 3-is it possible to have the chip setup/installs so I can still boot into ms dash.(I read it is possible to set it up so a long power press will start the chip) I do not plan to use a lpc rebuild, I can just do it with wire. Thanks in advance
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Hey guys, i' got this 1.6 PSU that seems to be turning the 12v line OFF after some time until it stops feeding it at all. The PSU was burned and repaired by other than me. It seems to be working perfectly, as i made a jumper from the 12v capacitor and it does indeed boot and work for hours, so it must be some component that's responsible for turning off the 12v line on it that is shorted or not operating properly. The thing is, i can't see any damaged component. All the other lines do work and the power button does seem to function. I've been trying to track what component turns off the 12v line when i turn off the console, but to do that i'd need a spare 1.6 PSU which i don't have at the moment. It's a Delta PSU by the way. I've made another post on this forum about the issue but it was in the wrong section. Also i didn't had a clue about what was making the PSU turn off until i found it was the 12v line.
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Hey guys, I'm trying to find the problem of this Delta psu, it's a us 110v psu. I turn it on, and after some time the console turns off. If I try to turn it on again, it does, but it turns off in a shorter time. It goes like this until it doesn't turn on anymore. If I unplug it and wait some time, it goes back to working until it decides to turn off again. I've checked all caps and all seems to be in working condition. This psu has been repaired before by someone else before I got my hands on it, the fuse has been replaced and the old varistor left some black fumes around it. There isn't any visible damage on the components. Any tips? I just noticed I created the thread in the wrong section. Sorry about that -
I took a 1.6 board I have laying around and decided to do a speed-mod. I paid no attention to quality of solder joints, length of wires, or anything else that a more experienced technician might look at. I did it as quickly and as shoddy as I could, so I could show results similar to what the average Joe may expect. I'm not trying to talk it down. THIS WORKS, and that is what matters and that's what this guide is for. 1. Insert the pinheader. Hold it with one finger against the board and flip it over. Solder 1 pin on the bottom side in place. Make sure your finger is not touching this pin on the other side. Let it cool, and then look to solder the opposite corner (diagonally). Don't let your finger touch that pin this time, and solder it in place. Now you can stop pressing on the opposite side with your finger, and just solder all of the rest of the pins in place. (A MUCH better way than using your finger, is to add a drop of super glue between the plastic holding the pins, and the board. Don't let it touch the metal or it will cook away in a very eye-irritating vapor.) 2. Now we're going to attach the wires to rebuild the lpc. On the top is the guide you should use. On the bottom is the demo job I did, and yours should look similar or better. You'll notice on the bottom picture, the LFrame/D0 wire is soldered to a pad you don't see anywhere else. The guide tells you to solder it to the chip, and the chip has a pad for it. That's not necessary. Just solder it to the pad I show you. That pad is ground, and grounding LFrame/D0 causes the Xbox to boot from LPC instead of the onboard rom. Doing this allows you to take the chip off at will for hotswapping/flashing other chips. (The dark colorations in the bottom pic are not burns. I use rosin-core solder. I usually clean it off to look nicer, but in this case I was trying to demonstrate a real-world normal job someone might do.) 3. Now it's time to get the Aladdin ready to go in. It has features built in for xbox live, which no longer exists for the original Xbox... so we need to defeat those features. Solder the BT pad on the Aladdin to the pad shown. This will enable the chip as soon as power is pressed. 4. Now you're ready to fit your chip and test it out. It mounts on the pinheader like this:
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Hey Everyone, I just recently got a xbox 1.6 in great shape! super clean and a like new shell. I installed OpenXenium chip inside, upgraded the drive to a 2TB SATA (may go to a 500GB IDE I have hanging around maybe) upgraded to a 80 wire IDE, and it works well, only issue is. The DVD drive is DOA. I found it cheaper to buy another xbox for parts than a working/tested drive on ebay. So I paid $5 +SH for another xbox. This one was listed AS IS and not working, case was fair shape. I got it, it's a version 1.0 and seems to work just fine, the DVD drive works as it should. I placed it into my 1.6 and it's fine. Question now is... do I keep the 1.6 xbox as is and call it a day? or should I move the modchip (it's only plug and play really, just gotta solder new header pins to the 1.0 xbox) to the 1.0 xbox? should I go with the 500GB IDE or 2TB SATA? could I move the heatsink from the 1.6 to the 1.0GPU to get rid of the fan on the GPU cooler on the 1.0? and I would assume the system shell is universal and I could use it either way. With the parts I have, what can I do to make the best xbox I could? Thanks everyone! ~John
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Attempting to show my grandson my daughters Bad*** Xecuter 3 Mod Original Xbox. I attempted to power on several times and different ways ( tapping quickly holding down power button and using the disk button) the unit would immediately shut down. The Xbox played fine a year ago. It was unplugged sitting on a shelf. So I opened her up and found some swollen capacitors and replaced them. While in there I also re applied paste to GPU and CPU. I tried again to power her up and same result. I'm lost at this point if any of you guys have an idea. Thanks from East Texas
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Evening all i've got 2 2.3b Lites and one 2.6. Anybody got the install diagrams as I can't seem to find them only the 2.3b+. Also with my LPC Rebuild kit they should work for 1.6's as long as I flash a working bios / Cromwell before installing? As I've ran out of Aladdins and have a few consoles in need of work.
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Hi, Awaiting a few parts from ebay im getting ready to put in a new, bigger sata-hdd in my hardmodded Aladdin chipped 1.6 xbox. (Recently bought it, and it was already modded). I see the 2019 Hexen iso in our forum, but for it says "you are not allowed to download this". So im going with 2018. I`ve never done this myself before, leading to my question: When i run the Hexen disc and prep the new drive (partitions and such) which dashboards will Hexen allow me to choose from? EvoX or UnleashX are the ones I have experience with from 15 years ago, so I am thinking I want to have one of them on my xbox. Thoughts or recommendations? Thanks so much for this awesome forum!
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My Xbox always gets stuck when the Microsoft logo pops up below the big Xbox logo in the center of the screen. How could I boot into the dashboard? I softmodded it in 2012 and could've easily messed up somewhere. Games and unofficial DVDs work just fine, luckily. Thanks in advance
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Hi, guys. I have a problem. I'd like to admit a 1 tb hard drive into an xbox 1.6 with modchip AladdinXT. Unfortunately, by inserting the hard disk with the dvd of rocky5 or Wizard, the hdd is not recognized. I tried in my xbox 1.0 with the same chip, and it is recognized. Partitioning is everything, it is recognized. I put it back in the xbox 1.6 but it is not recognized. If I remember correctly, it's an eeprom problem. Can you help me?
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Hi I'm currently doing a lpc rebuild on a 1.6 og xbox and I've managed to lift the trace on the trace near R7P4 does anyone know if theres somewhere else on the board I can pick this up? Thanks in advance.
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Located in sweden But Will ship worldwide. Can sell board only and without psu/heatsinks etc for cheaper shipping its up to you stock hdd can upgrade to 2tb if requested
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Hi, I have a 1.6 crystal, I'm the first to open it up, it has no life when the buttons are pressed, so far I have, Tested the power supply, and the power when the power button is pressed and held. I'm getting all the correct voltage when standby and when the power button is held, it tells me the power supply is doing its thing. The only one that is slightly out is the 12 line at stand by it shows about 0.34, when plugged on to the board but 0 when removed and just the plug probed. It had the 5 capacitors all leaking and bulging around the power socket, so I incorrectly thought that would be the problem and changed those for some panasonic units. Again this didn't sort the problem. I checked the transistor at Q7C2 and was getting 3.36 volts on the collector, but to prove a point I removed it from the circuit and put it on the tester independently it showed as a working pnp transistor. (I have ordered some new ones as it off the board so might as well replace it.) I have read that the clock cap can be replaced with a capacitor but now cant find the correct value, as a fault clock cap can prevent power up?? plus it looks like i may have damaged this one with the heat gun, could just be the outer paint coating scorcher on closer examination though, been unplugged a while and still showing 1.66 volts. The traces from the power/eject socket are good going up to the xyololops chip. cant see any corrosion on the underside of the board either. so that's where I am with it at the moment any suggestions on what to test next. I have a 1.4 board and ps that i can fit into this lovely case but would like to try and fix this one first. The board dosen't look dead flush where the cpu sit on it slight warpage of the board with the weight of the heat sink pushing down, this may be normal though. Thanks Ted
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48