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  1. I accidently hit C6R5 while doing a 128mb upgrade. I assume it is a 29 ohm like the others near buy? I has hoping someone maybe could verify before I purchase a bag of them lol.
  2. Hi Everyone, Repackinator v1.0 is now available. Its source & executable can found on our github https://github.com/Team-Resurgent/Repackinator. We are also excited to collaborate with the community to bring additional features & enhancements to Repackinator. Please feel free to commit to our Github Repo. A Patreon has also been set up for those who wish to say thanks or donate. https://www.patreon.com/teamresurgent. Keep an eye out on for further Team Resurgent releases coming soon. Support & Discussions can be found on the Xbox-Scene Discord https://discord.gg/VcdSfajQGK in the General room Under Team Resurgent. Thanks!
  3. Thank you everyone in advance for all the help. I was given an Xbox and it doens't work, showed error code 07, I assumed dead hard drive so I wanted to do a hard mod. I have an early revision Xbox, just installed the Aladdin XT hard mod with EvoX BIOS, the install was a success and I get the logo in the top left on boot, followed by an error code 07. I have tried a few different things as I know that is the result of a hard drive time out. I've tried multiple IDE hard drives, known good IDE cable, known good DVD drive, I've unplugged the hard drive data cable and it still shows error code 07. I have a Hexen 2020 disc at the ready burned using Windows built in tool. I have ordered a few things; IDE to SATA converter to test with a known good SATA drive, and 80 wire IDE cable. Please let me know what I should try next. I am starting to believe the hard drive is actually fine, because when I unplugged the data cable it did not switch to an error code 8. Thank you!
  4. Background. I got hold of a v1.0 (gpu fan model) with the intention of TSOP flashing it, but it wouldn't boot past the logo, and I diagnosed hard drive failure. The clock capacitor hadn't leaked when I removed it, and the Thompson DVD drive works, so I'm guessing the hard drive failed early and the Xbox was put away faulty. Anyway I fitted an Aladdin (breaking a track fitting the rom disable ) Having fixed the track, fitted the rom disable to a different place and swapped the hard drive, it works! However, there is a horizontal line (usually pinky coloured) that slowly moves up and down the lower third of the screen. The line was there before I fitted the Aladdin. Sometimes it disappears, sometimes it is very noticeable. I tried removing the motherboard again and cleaning all the contact points to the screening can, including the fingers on the video socket. The video lead is fine when connected to my other xbox (component video btw) I'm hoping it is just a capacitor, but which one? They all look perfect even under a magnifying glass, no signs of leakage, splitting or bulging. I'm reluctant to just change loads of them, as 1) I'd fit eBay components, so they might be fakes and worse than what is in there at the moment 2) with the trouble breaking a track (my eyesight isn't what it used to be) I might cause more problems than I solve trying to change them.
  5. Hello all !!! This is a new version of my resources pack for XBMC4Gamers (https://mega.nz/#F!5wUBQZSa!44MF7TL02pTjOsHEdTCrtg 12Gb on Mega). It was based on Wikipedia for list of XBox titles, completed with Modded / Unreleased / Ripped games (1106 games !!!) It's easy-to-use : download "Resources4XBMC v1.0", extract it and view the full list of HDD ready files then transfer as needed ! This pack contains few covers, banners, icons, cd, fanarts, previews and synopsis (thanks Cian Cunningham for his work) . I think it the most complete pack you can find and it works with all XBMC 3.5.3 or above once Rocky5's custom version (XBMC4Gamers and XBMC4Kids). What's new in this version : - Added more covers, fanarts, previews... - Better quality for covers, fanarts and preview ; - Add synopsis by Cian Cunninghan ; - Separates folders for modded, ripped, retail and unreleased games ; - And many some little things :) Many thanks to Rocky5 for his programs and Cian Cunningham for his work. Any issues anyone finds I can fix and update accordingly when I have time. I hope this enhances your XBMC4Gamers setup.
  6. I got a free Xbox v1.0 that had Error 21. I cleaned the board, replaced the clock cap with one I bought online (no leakage), installed an Aladdin XT Plus 2 modchip, and used TrueHeXen 2021 to erase the hard drive and install UnleashX. Now, the console turns on without giving an error, but this is where the real pickle is: 1. Trying to boot MS DASH from the menu brings up Error 21 2. Trying to load Burnout 3 (an Xbox Live game) freezes as it loads. 3. Trying to change dashboards (I.e. UnleashX to XBMC4Gamers) ALWAYS fails with an error and no description. This is both with the TrueHeXeN disk or from within UnleashX. As some additional background, it’s a 1.0 and I cannot flash a 512kb BIOS, and it actually says “BIOS: Unknown” in the TrueHeXen disk. I’ve also tried clearing the cache to see if that’s preventing the game from running and it’s not that.
  7. I didnt find a price check thread and wasnt sure where to post this. But wanted to ask how much would this go for? V1.0 Xbox with X3CE + X3CP front panel + 200GB HDD
  8. Hello everyone I got a Softmodded V1.0 Evox with a 500hd, i´ve about 200 titles that work, but recently i´ve installed some via Flashfxp5 but they didn´t launch from the dash menu, it shows loading but it goes back to Evox menu, and doesn´t start from a game disc(does the same thing). The orange light is always on on the tray button. What i tried already: Cleaning cache from E: and X: Y: and Z: (nothing) Patched xbe of some games via c-box tool (nothing) Still, nothing, games won´t start anyway, what i´m missing here? Thank you very much
  9. I got an xbox v1.0 motherboard with an xecuter 2.3 pro modchip that was not working. I took it apart and found the d0 wire was loose, so I resoldered that connection and hooked everything up and the system ran fine for about 4 hours, at which point I powered everything down and went to bed. this morning I go to power on the unit and the blue lights on the modchip light up and the fans spin for a second, but no lights on the front panel and nothing else happens. the capacitors on the power supply and near the psu connector on the motherboard all look fine. not sure what else to check, so any help would be appreciated. Also, the clock cap was removed before I got the xbox, presumably when the modchip was originally installed VID_20220223_031845379.3gp
  10. Hello, i bought a used v1.0 xbox some months ago, which i've modded. but lately i've had problems with it. It manifested by some times i would turn it on and it does the 3 on/offs then christmas lights. Then all of a sudden it can work again for 5 times, next day i turn it on again, and it won't boot. Have to take out the motherboard and inspect my solderjoints, all ok, into the xbox and it might work again, if not repeat process etc. past 2 days i've used it, it's been working perfect then i noticed it just suddenly freezes and throws a high pitch sound on the speakers without me doing anything but just idling in xbmc menu somewhere. And now it won't start sucessfully at all. just christmas lights. And no occasional luck booting it up successfully either. I installed a aladdin modchip in it and have long been suspecting the solderwork there, since sometimes it boots and sometimes not. But now i'm thinking it might be the PSU that is the root of the problems. I looked at another thread and did the voltage testing on the 12v plug pin by starting the PSU and not connecting it to the motherboard. All the wires showed correct voltage except two. The blue wire (or grey as it is on the plug pin) is supposed to be 3.3v but shows 0.04v and the yellow wire which is supposed to be 12v but is showing 5.89v. I'm posting a picture of the psu and you can see 1 capacitor that is very bulged, i've marked it with red arrow. Should i swap out these caps with new ones? are they responsible for the incorrect voltage on specifically those 2 pins? Also the big caps on the motherboard is not bulged but i understand they can very well be off also, even it doesn't show to the naked eye. So basically are the problems coming from the PSU or the motherboard, Would it be enough to just swap out the 3 caps on the psu, you think? What about the big black 400V 180uF one? that can be a culprit too? Btw, when i started up the PSU with no load i can hear a sound coming from the big black 400v capacitator. it's buzzingsound with short 10milliseconds stops in between like as if electrolytic fluid is boiling and hissing in there. is that normal? With load it makes a lower clicking sound. it's prob just the hz from the powerline maybe.
  11. Hey guys, Happy near year, hope you all enjoyed some time off and got some gaming in!! I have a new xbox v1.0 that I have installed a Xblast Lite modchip with a 2Tb sata HDD, all is working OK I think. But just confused as to the best bios to run on each of the banks, it has the 512kb and 256kb bank, correct? Also using the 2021 installer disk how do you chose which bank to flash a different bios onto? Cheers, Bryce
  12. Let me share some context: The past year, I read about the clock capacitor, so I decided to open my xbox to check the clock capacitor status and I found there was some leakage, but fortunatelly it didn't corroded other components nor traces. So I removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Then proceeded to softmod the console with Rocky5 tools and I also updated the harddrive to a 2TB SATA HDD. Then I played almost all Rally Sport Challenge 2 cups (except the last one) to test it and after that I moved the console to the living room. Another day, I started the console to continue playing and, as soon as I started it, I heard a strong crack inside the console and some burned electronic smell, so I turned it off. Then I opened the console and I found a small tube moving around, so I started looking for its original place until I found it was one of the PSU capacitors, the one rated as 25V 47uf in a delta PSU. Then I ordered a couple of new PSUs from ebay, a delta and a minebea. As soon as they arrived, I replaced mine with the Delta one and the console can be powered on, but there was a strong burned electronic smell, so I quickly turned it off. By looking at the CPU capactitors, there was some brownish color, so I changed the 5x 1500uf 6.3v by 3x 3300uf 6.3v Panasonic FM, then turned the console on again and it was FRAGed and the smell it's not longer strong, BUT I still can smell a light "funny smell", this time it smells like "new" electronic. Please help me to throubleshoot this issue, I really would like to repair this xbox as it is the one I used 20 years ago. If you need pictures of anything please let me know.
  13. Hello, i just put a 2TB drive in my original xbox and put some games in it. I went to extract Resources4XBMC v1.0 so i could ftp the artwork over and got an error message. I'm trying to re-download Resources4XBMC v1.0 and i cant find it anywhere? Can anyone help? I think it was around 12 gig's.
  14. Hi! I have Xbox original v1.0. component cable I made Tsop and it work greate. I hope to make ram upgreade, but first i write XBlast OS on my bios. after rebut I donot see start console. XBlast OS in ThuHexen 2021 256kb Maybe it work only with composite cable? can i flash the bios with programmer ? it is posible ?
  15. Hi! Couple of days ago I decided to try repair my xbox which has been sitting on my shelf for at least 15 years after dying suddenly. I opened up a thread on reddit here, and chatted with KaosEngineeer over there. To sum up the current situation: -The xbox is unresponsive when pressing eject and power button, no sign of life. Back in the days it was repaired under warranty (substitution of the PSU) and then repaired and modded with Aladdin and Evo X. -Opening it up I noticed that the clock capacitor had leaked, but seemingly not caused any corrosion. I removed the cap and cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol. - I tried checking the PSU and it seems to work, giving out 3.3 Volts on the standby contact (brown in my case). I tried short circuiting the standby with the PowON (white) contact by using a piece of wire metal, and I verified that the lines (orange, red and yellow) are more or less in line with the pinout (instead of being 5 Volts there are 5.27 Volts and instead of 12 Volts there are 10.73 Volts). - I checked both visually and with a multimeter that the 4 traces under the motherboard are uninterrupted. In particular, looking at this image: There is continuity between the cyan and violet pins on the PIC chip and the cyan and violet contact in the bottom of the image. The 4 resistances in the same image seem to work fine, with a value of about 10 kOhm each. -I checked that the front panel eject and power button work by verifying that, when pressed, they connect to ground the red and blue traces next to the 10kOhm signal resistances. -Now, the stangest thing: if I give power, the brown contact is at 3.3 volts (verified while the psu is attached to the motherboard by inserting the multimeter probe in the top space between the plastic plug and the brown wire), but for some reason the PIC pins that should have the same voltage when the console is plugged (before and after pressing the eject and power button) remain at 0 Volt no matter if I press the front panel buttons or not and no matter if I choose a different point for ground ( I tried using all the black cables and the RF cage). So, basically I'm stuck. Any ideas? Thank you for help
  16. Xbox console revision 1.0 in good condition with the following specs: TSOP flashed 2TB SATA hdd Digitus SATA -> IDE adapter 80pin IDE ribbon cable On the HDD is the excellent full Arcadepunks XBMC Origins frontend! Here is a video they made to demonstrate it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XirumHggTqc The unit has been fully cleaned, no noisy fan's or bad capictors. The DVD drive is serviced and fully working. The power supply is 220volt Picture gallery with images of the Xbox running: https://jiggmaster.synology.me:5008/mo/sharing/5a0ZhM9jY Item located in Sweden, shipping worldwide Price = €100 excl. shipping
  17. I've been struggling recently with getting a dashboard on my recently flashed Xbox, and I'm not very sure where to go. I softmodded it with Rocky5 first, then I flashed it with iND-BiOS with no issues, but since it can't find any dashboard, it just goes black after the startup animation. I tried using two different burned copies of Hexen 2018; one either isn't recognized or flashes red-orange-green, and the other isn't recognized at all. Both discs were burned at 4x with PowerISO on Verbatim DVD-Rs, and the drive was able to boot a burned copy of Outrun 2006 and can play retail games, albeit with some difficulty. I was planning on installing a 1TB SATA HDD, and the only option I can think of is putting a dash on it via XboxHDMUSB and then putting it in, but I can't find any guides for this specific method and I don't have enough experience to really know what I'm doing when it comes to building HDDs. What can I do in this situation?
  18. So I’ve got an Xbox 1.0 that was opened before me when I got it. It flashes red and green after 3 reboots and I get no video please help!! 3 reboots and no video. I’ve changed a couple caps near the clock cap hoping it would be that but no luck. I removed clock capacitor cleaned the whole board with ipa and tested it and still no luck. Bought an Aladdin off eBay hooked it up and still nothing worked. Could someone have done a bad eeprom flash? I’ve ruled out the power supply already and even with the HDD and dvd drive unplugged it still doesn’t work. As far as I can tell the tsop points are not bridged . What else can I try to fix this?
  19. I tried to upgrade my V1.0 Xbox with 4 Samsung version F RAM chips but it won’t boot. I’ve got an OpenXenium mod chip installed but I’ve tried booting both with and without yet it still flashes. Anyone know what this means/ anyway to fix it? Any help would be much appreciated.
  20. UPDATE: The seller is sending me a replacement board. No longer required. Got sent a board from an eBay seller that is FRAGGING out of the box. Many loose capacitors and I fear more underlying problems. I need a v1.0 or v1.1 board, as all I have lying around are single ATX power supplies. TSOP flashed preferred, but if not, then EEPROM extracted, if possible. Please PM.
  21. Not done a chip install before but decided to take the plunge and have just received an Aladdin XT PLUS2 including pin-header. Thing is I have two options: install on a v1.0 or a v1.6. I've started by bridging the BT to adjacent GND point so when fitted the chip will be always be on. A bit fiddly and I overcooked the solder on one end but it looks clean enough. The question is what to do now: there are plenty of guides for the the v1.6 but that involves rebuilding the LPC which with my soldering skills I'm not 100% confident about. There is also contradictory information about the pin-header set up too. Some guides remove just one pin others like this very clear YT guide recommends removing four pins. The v1.6 LPC hassle made me tend towards using the v1.0 instead but the guides I've found for that are limited and seem unclear in comparison. Nothing at all about using the pin header, if there are any differences, and the pins that need removing or even what needs to be connected to what. Available pictures are particular poor. It also appears that to use the pin header I'm going to have to remove the existing solder from the LPC holes too. Is the info in the v1.6 YT tutorial about using 5v from the right transistor leg to make the LED only switch on when the Xbox is powered up applicable to the v1.0? Advice/info please.
  22. i recently obtained a broken xbox and i'm having 2 weird problems with it. (not the weird part)1st off, the power supply had a bad solder joint that i fixed so now the system powers on. (weird parts) 1. there is no picture on the tv screen at all even though the the eject button light turns solid green telling me that it detects the a/v cable. it flashes green/orange when the a/v cable is unplugged. but there is absolutely no change on the tv screen. 2. the disk drive does not eject even though i can take the top off of the drive and see the spindle turn and the laser move reacting to me pressing the eject button. i know a stuck dvd drive tray isn't uncommon on these system but i have tried 2 different drives in it that eject fine in another xbox. the only change i have made to the mobo is that i removed the clock cap which appeared to not even have leaked onto the mobo yet(i did this before testing the xbox which i wish i wouldn't have). the system also has mild rust on the tray underneath the mobo which suggest it's had moisture in it(even the dvd laser has rust on the metal around the laser lens). btw, it's a version 1.0 xbox. any idea what the heck is wrong with it? thanks for any advice.
  23. tmcwboards

    V1.0 - Frag

    Hi, I have a v1.0 that has recently started fragging, tries to start 3 times, and on the 3rd attempt, flashes red and green. No video. The hard drive spins up. A few weeks ago, it fragged a few times, but eventually it did start up, but now it won't. I got it about 10 years ago, clock cap had leaked, so it was removed, and the board was cleaned up with vinegar and IPA. No damage to the traces as far as I could tell. It performed well in the years since. I've tested it with a second hard drive that was prepared and works in it normally, but same result. I have tested the voltages on the 12 pin connector, and I'm only getting 11.49V on the 12V line. Also, seeing 2.54V on the PowON pin when the Xbox powers up; apparently it's supposed to be 3.3V. Other voltages are ok, 4.98 on the 5V, and 3.27 on the 3.3V. Would these abnormal voltages cause the Xbox to FRAG? Does anyone know what the PowON pin/line is for, is it a voltage from the mainboard back to the PSU?
  24. Hi. I have one of the modded Xbox consoles that I bought from N64Freak last year. It's a v1.0 and the power supply has failed, I've tested the console with an old PC PSU just to verify that it's the PSU and it booted. Since the PC power supply has no chance of fitting into the console, and I can't find a power supply that isn't from the USA, I'm going to buy a broken console for spares and use the PSU from that. So here's my question then, I know that a V1.6 PSU likely won't work since it has 5V on in standby and POWOK has 3.3v in standby, while all the other models only have a 3.3V line active in standby. Will a PSU from a V1.1 up to a v1.5 work if I can source one? The v1.0 seems to have these cables running to the motherboard: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 3 cables 3.3v = 1 cable STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 4 POWOK = 1 POWON = 1 The v1.1-v1.5 seems to have: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 4 cables 3.3v = 2 cables STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 5 cables POWOK = 1 cable POWON = 1 cable Am I right in assuming I could just route the cables from a v1.1-v1.5 into the headers they belong in on the v1.0 motherboard, and just leave out the extra unneeded 5v, 3.3v, and GND cables? My main concern is whether the newer PSU will have enough wattage to power the console, since I was thinking that the v1.0 might have used more power.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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