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Found 10 results

  1. Hello Guys. I need some advice. I have a Xbox 1.4 with a windbond chip that I TSOPed a few years ago using a Hexen disk, I don't remember exactly the bios that was flashed, but when I turn on the xbox the evoX logo comes up, so I'm gonna guess my xbox has a m8 plus. The console works fine, but the fan is very noisy (it's a Sunon), so today I disassembled the xbox, replaced the thermal paste in both gpu and cpu (i've gained like 5 degrees), cleaned and oiled the fan and...it's still very very noisy and loud. So, I've been looking for a replacement fan, and found that people recommend the "Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan". But, they also recommend to up the fan speed (to 40% I think) because by default, it won't cool the console as the stock fan does. To do that, ¿I should flash a new Bios right? the m8 plus using EVtools and selecting 40% fan speed? something like this: My DVD drive is dead, so I can't use Hexen, or the OGXBOX Installer, but I can FTP to the console. Any advice on flashing a windbond chip? Thank you so much for your time.
  2. I wouldn't consider this necessarily a mod as much as a repair but I wanted to talk about how when I was 14 and had absolutely no clue how anything on an xbox worked, I replaced the laser on my disc drive in an xbox that was completely stock (at the time). Now I don't know if I actually fixed the problem but it sure seems like it. At one point I stopped being able to load games from the drive, no games worked except for some reason the JSRF/SEGA GT 2002 game worked every time that originally came with the system. So at the time, all I could think was that the laser was bad and that the only option was to replace it. So I went to Ebay and searched for an original xbox laser and sure enough found one for I believe around $15USD. I swapped it into my drive and its been loading games perfectly fine since. Only I don't know if that affected its ability to read other disc types. In any case, I've read everywhere, for the most part, that people who have dead drives have no choice but to go buy another xbox that still has one working. So the conclusion I am coming to is, why have I not seen anyone mention buying a replacement laser? Did I just happen to find one or did it not occur to anyone that you could potentially just replace the laser? Was just one of my thoughts I've had for several years and just wanted to share and see what other people thought or know about replacing just the laser.
  3. I've been through hell with this Xbox over the past couple of weeks so let me give a bit of a rundown. I've got a 1.6 Xbox that I installed OpenXenium on using an LPC rebuild board, Chimeric's IDE cable, StarTech IDE/SATA adapter, and a WD 2TB drive. For the longest time I had issues with the OpenXenium install where it would FRAG if the chip was installed. I checked continuity and everything was fine with each VIA to its corresponding point, so I redid my soldering twice and it booted into OpenXenium. I then install a dash, setup the new drive, and put the Xbox back together. However it FRAG'ed again whenever I put the top case back with all the bottom screws. Took the case off, still FRAGing. I realized it was FRAGing with just Chimeric's IDE cable after a couple hours so I got a replacement cable, and everything worked fine with the top case back on. Until it didn't. After turning the Xbox off for a few hours it wouldn't turn back on, period. I took the top case off, and it powered on fine, but after a couple seconds I heard a loud whine/squealing noise from the right side of the Xbox (which I assume was the PSU) > turned the Xbox off > and then it never turned back on again, even with just the bare board. So I replaced the PSU. Issue fixed, it powered back on fine. But when I put the top case back on, it wouldn't power back on, and now I'm at the same spot I was before. The Xbox is not powering on no matter what I do. So here's what I've done so far since then to try and narrow this down: I do not know for 100% certain that the motherboard has been case swapped, but I have no reason to believe it was. The bottom stickers were all intact and the screws were not exposed, and there are no missing/extra screw posts on the bottom of the case compared to the board. I've also tested power with the board and PSU isolated from the case and I'm still not getting power, so the case is not the issue I've checked continuity with all VIAs to their corresponding points with a multimeter and they all have continuity. LFRAME is also not grounded I've checked the PSU using this chart here . I'm getting 5.3v on every orange, 0v on white, 0v on red, 0v on yellow, and 0.3v on blue I'm getting 3.25v-3.26v on the collector chip Anyone have any ideas on where to go from here?
  4. My OG Xbox started to Frag after a recap using the Console 5 kits. The PSU has been successfully recapped, mod chip and the extra ram chips work as i did that before the recap, clock cap area is fine, i removed that cap quite a while ago and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Every cap is in the right place and in the right orientation. But i did install C3B1 near the AV port, the 100uf cap the wrong away around the first time. I fixed that mistake, powered it on again but i get a Frag. What could be the problem? I reflowed the solder many times, and can’t find shorts either. Images: https://imgur.com/gallery/WIgbUQI
  5. A while ago I removed the clock capacitor from an Xbox v.1.1. Some days ago came the new capacitor I had ordered and I got to install it. Now, since I'm a complete amateur on the soldering thing, I may have damaged the capacitor or the mb, or the soldering job I did isn't good enough, BUT, how long is the date/time expected to last with a same rating capacitor? I never actually used a new Xbox and I don't know. My first results show that I must have messed up the installation. As far as I can tell I put it in the same place where I removed the old one (there was a leftover capacitor leg in one of the holes) and I used the correct polarity (the negative of the capacitor to the white side of the board's schematic). The capacitor I used is the one in the picture below. Thank you!
  6. Hi! I´m planning to replace IDE-cable but couldn´t find out should it be 40 or 80pin? Or does it even matter in this case?
  7. i, like many others, started having problems with my xbox after replacing the thermal paste. graphics glitching, freezing, frag'ing, and sometimes it would just go into a coma on me. it appears that the problem is that some of the solvent for cleaning the thermal paste gets underneath the gpu chip and causes a short. 1st off, i do not recommend replacing the thermal paste on these consoles but if u already have and are now having problems then here is how to fix it. get a bottle of 91% rubbing alcohol with a squirt top on it(i suggest a quart bottle), hold the motherboard on it's side, and squirt the alcohol all over it. be certain that plenty is going under the gpu. next, take a hair dryer and dry the board very well. be careful not to get it too hot. a good rule of thumb is that if any part of the board is uncomfortable to lay your hand on and keep it there, then it is too hot and should be allowed to cool. next, sit the board in the xbox, hook up the psu, connect a tv and power on the system a few times to be certain that it appears to be working before full reassembly. BE CERTAIN TO REAPPLY THERMAL PASTE AND HEATSINKS BEFORE POWERING ON! i'm not certain that it will overheat the chips without the heatsinks for a quick test but it isn't worth the risk. this fixed my xbox that i was concerned i had forever killed.
  8. haven't been able to find a vid of it. anyone know of one?
  9. I have heard in order to upgrade your xbox original hard drive from the original to a 121gb or more you need a special bios. I am clueless on this topic any help would be appreciated. Also if you couldn't tell already my xbox is hardmodded. Any help would be appreciated!!
  10. I've been reading through some threads and have seen many times that Rocky5's softmod is the best one to use. I have an Xbox that's TSOP flashed already, but I want to replace an ancient hotswap softmod on my 1.6, and installing Rocky5's with the Splinter Cell exploit over it doesn't seem to be working properly. I end up getting errors or the Xbox freezes after the press A screen, which I'd imagine is the old softmod conflicting with it. If it needs to be removed first, how should I go about doing so? It's probably a stupid question, but I'm afraid I'll brick it by doing something stupid, then end up having to hotswap again to fix it. Another thing is that I plan to flash my other stock V1.0 after I replace the PSU, I'd assume I have to install the softmod on that too so I can flash the TSOP, after bridging the points of course. Then afterwards the softmod can be deleted.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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