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Hi, I recently bought four xbox one controllers not tested for repair them, I had very good surprises in the lot, only one needs micro soldering to be repaired, except that the problem comes that controllers are not 100% official (both brands appear have permissions from Microsoft to manufacture and sell controllers), the controller in question is a PowerA and I have to change the micro USB port except that I can't find a replacement micro USB port on the net and no one seems to have documented this subject, I wanted to know if one of you had already changed a micro USB port of a PowerA controller and if he still had the reference of the port used for the repair, thanks. Have a good day

So my plan is to design an aftermarket original xbox case that keeps all the original components (mainboard with heatsinks, controller ports, dvd rom, psu, hdd, etc) with the possible exception of the rear fan and metal shielding. To achieve this I have been 3d modelling all of the internals to ensure everything fits. I have some ideas on the style I want to go for but have some questions. 1. Should I include a place to mount an lcd/oled? 2. Would you want to keep the xbox jewel? 3. Hdd/lan activity leds? 4. Any other requests Once I have some feedback the most popular features will be integrated. For now here are some of the 3d modelled components (to scale)

Hello, Doing a mod on a board (1.3 i believe) and C7D1 decided it wanted to leave the chat. As such, i cant find its value anymore to get a replacement. Does anybody know this? Otherwise, does anybody know what other one i can remove from a spare board that doesnt have this? Its right below R7D2. Last time i try and do a mod install after a shitty nights sleep i swear.

I got recently an original black Xbox (the very classic so) but I would like to change the case for another one, like a reproduction of the Halo 2 Bell Ice Blue edition one. I know it would be not legit, but I just want to have one that look like this. It's just for fun and cosmetic for me. How to get one ? Should I try 3D Printing ? Or can I find some here or somewhere else ?

As usual, they gouge you if you try to buy a rubber belt for the original Xbox if they actually call it a belt for the original Xbox. But I heard you could use 23mm or so rubber O rings from the plumber's section of a store. Since I loathe the idea of spending $3.00+ for 1 "official" OGXbox drive belt, what are the exact size measurements (or close to) for the actual OGXbox drive belts so I can attempt an approximation with a 10 for a buck O ring? I want to resurrect my Xbox's troublesome disc drive that refuses to come out of it's shell, like a shy turtle.

H all, I attempted to recap a 1.6 . I thought things went alright, however instead it no longer works at all. When I first saw plug it in the LED on the Aladdin lights as usually, but quicks dims out. After unplugging and waiting a bit, and then again trying again, the Aladdin lights again then off again. I’m guessing one or more the caps didn’t flow to trace or something. Is that what I should expect with a missing cal?

Hi have a bad cap leak and trace rot, can fix the boards but don't know what the value of the transistors are. At the moment looking at three boards a 1.0 1.2 and 1.4 , the legs are to corroded to reuse. Thanks

Hi Everyone, i'm currently offering these replacement cables in an effort to bring back to life as many original xbox Microsoft branded controllers as possible! This cable includes a 5 pin connector so it has all of the data lines that the xbox cable uses. It's a simple replacement, just de-solder the existent pin connector, and put this in it's place. This is a full length cord, includes the breakaway, ferrite cores, strain relief etc. It can also be used as a replacement on most (maybe all) of the cheap aftermarket controllers if you want to be able to use sit further from your monitor/TV. The new connector inserts vertically, the old one lays on it's side, this has no effect on the shell. There is one other difference i will point out for complete transparency. The original xbox controller uses 5 data lines, and has 1 chunky stranded line of shielding that is soldered as a 6th pin. These do not have that 6th pin. For comparison, the cheap aftermarket controllers use 4 pins in their wiring (missing the yellow wire), have no breakaway cable, and are only 5-6 feet in length. These ship from the US, and currently listed at $5.99 per cable. I do have a shopify store for easy payment options, but will not link that here until i have permission to do so. If you are interested, please drop a comment and feel free to PM me. Bulk rates are an option, just have to figure out the best method of shipping whatever qty it is you may be interested in.

Are there any low lag wireless controller solutions for the OG xbox?

Anyone trying to get registered for Insignia can go register on their website as of this morning. This is the OX Xbox Live replacement service that is going live soon. https://insignia.live/

Hello, I was changing out all the capacitors on the OGXbox. The Xbox is a working one. I didn't check for continuity before starting the work. After half way through, I started checking for continuity and saw that there is continuity on capacitors C7E2 and C7F1, circled in the picture. There is no continuity on the other caps, just these two. They show continuity to each other and to ground. I removed the capacitors, but the holes still show continuity, but the capacitors by themselves do not. I am a noob, so I do not know if the continuity is meant to be or not. I held the wires on there for a while to see if it will go away after filling up some caps, but nope. It also shows short to one side of all other caps as well. So, is it supposed to be or not? Please help, I do not want to ruin the board. (Ver. 1.4/1.5)

I started working on an alternative to the HD AV pack but with added SPDIF RCA, as well as an internally mountable version with a 3d printed panel to snap or screw into the outer case if anyone would be interested in that. I liked the XOSVP's use of a VGA connector so I've included that and I see most designs with YPbPr output using 75ohm resistors, but are these actually necessary if my traces are wide enough to have an impedance of 75 ohms and will they make a difference on the L/R analog audio connections? I've only started learning this stuff recently so I'd like to know if anything about the schematic is no good. I'll post the design and editable PCB once I have it finalized. Integrally mounted version with DPDT switch to enable av mode 2+3: based on this diagram:

Hello All! I can't seem to find a thread on this so will ask the question. Does anyone know where I can purchase good quality OGxbox style game cases that match the original green colour from the retail shells?

As the title says i'm after a full cap replacement kit for a 1.4 Xbox. Looking for a UK seller to avoid humongous shipping charges. Looking to replace the caps on the MB and power supply board. This box will be my 2022 Ultimate Xbox build with Cerbios, Huge HDD, Xbox HDMI+ and whatever else I deem fit to add Any ideas anyone? The only place I have found so far is Console5 in the US and the shipping to the UKis $40 at its cheapest. That's a lot for a tiny parcel of caps.

Dear All, As you know, the stock fan of original Xbox is quite loud, and given the age about 15 to 16 years I decided to upgrade/replace the fan, read some forums and some suggest the Nexus 70mm Real Silence fan, which has an airflow of 21.1 CFM, but since I'm from Europe this fan is not available almost in no place, owing probably to being an older fan design, looked for alternatives, and some suggested a Noctua 80mm which we need to butch the HDD plastic bay to fit on the box, but there's also a 60mm model, which fits excellently which is NF-A6x25 FLX. that address an airflow of 29,2 CFM which is better than the first solution Nexus 70 mm. Alright connected the fan with the 4 anti vibration rubbers and this is the final result. Still haven't replace the thermal paste, that's going to be my next project, really now I have a quiet XBOX on my hands

I saw on reddit that they recommended a Taiyo yuden or Nichicon 1F 2.5V, but it seems these are now out of production.

I have two Toshiba/Samsung drives that have bad lasers, I can only seem to find replacement lasers for Thomson drives available to buy online. Is there anywhere that sells lasers for the T/S drives, or are there lasers from other products that might be compatible? I saw someone online who replaced a Playstation 2 laser with one from a music CD player and it worked, not sure if something like that can be done with the Xbox drives?

Hi, Today a colleague and I replaced the DVD drive in my Xbox 1.6 with a cross-flashed GDR 8163B. Unfortunately we were a bit careless with the connections on the bottom of the DVD controller board and ripped off the solder pad for READY. The drive works to an extent regardless, I can launch games when they're inserted at boot and Video DVDs also work in XBMC. The drive status in EvoX dash is constantly "Ejecting" as it seems. Now, the only thing that bugs me is that the Xbox's LED is constantly blinking (alternating orange/red). It only stops blinking while the tray is out. It's probably confused because the pin is not connected and it thinks the drive is getting ready all the time. Am I right to assume that the blinking is done entirely in hardware? I couldn't find any LED setting code related to it in the kernel. Can somebody tell me what kind of signal the Xbox motherboard is expecting for the ready pin? Can I solder it to ground to stop the blinking but keep things working?

I am disappointed with the fan mods for the Original Xbox. I tried a 60mm Noctua Fan and then an 80MM Noctua, but no matter what i do. I cannot increase the speed of the fan. The fan just stays at the same speed settings even during gameplay. And was wondering if i can increase the speed of the Noctua since they are better,quieter fans capable of pushing out more air. I tried increasing the speed through the settings and through the config settings. But it still doesn’t make a difference. My Xbox has an Open Xenium modchip with Unleash X. Did i miss something? Do i need a special adapter?

As it says in the title, I'm new to the Xbox modding scene. I'm wondering if I could just take out the hard drive and replace it with a brand new one (plain and simple). Or do I need to do some other stuff before putting a new hard drive. My Xbox is also unmodded (unmodded as in STOCK, no softmod or hardmods done to it.) And if some soldering needs to be done, then does anybody know what (affordable) soldering equipment do I need? Considering I have ZERO skills in soldering.

Hi I recently got back to the og after seeing the clock cap problem. I have a version 1.0 that has trace damage from the cap. It works boots fine and replaced the thermal paste on gpu & cpu with MX4. I dont think its a heating issue. When I play a game it shuts off. On the dash the temps seem to be at 45 degrees Celsius 1. I am looking to preseve this for the future, is it possible this is a capacitor replated problem ? 2. This is a list ive tried to piece together with information looking around. Will these be suitable? for version 1.0 and 1.4 versions https://au.element14.com/panasonic/eeufr0j152l/cap-1500-f-6-3v-20/dp/2760316 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/16zl1500mefc12-5x20/cap-1500-f-16v-20/dp/1144693 https://industrial.panasonic.com/sa/products/pt/aluminum-cap-lead/models/EEUFR1A681 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/25zl100mefc6-3x11/cap-100-f-25v-20/dp/1144697 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/25ml22mefc5x5/cap-22-f-25v-20/dp/8126402 https://au.element14.com/nichicon/uut1c470mcl1gs/cap-47-f-16v-radial-smd/dp/8823200 https://au.element14.com/nichicon/uwx1c100mcl1gb/cap-10-f-16v-radial-smd/dp/8823022?st=16v 10uf nichicon wx 3. Are the Tantalum Capacitor better than SMD? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983008282.html TANTALUM CAPACITOR, 10UF, 16V TANTALUM CAPACITOR, 47UF, 16V https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=78134 xbox ultimate solid-mod Really appreciate any replies, Kaos & SS Dave really know there stuff

My Xbox is not modded and kind of wanted to keep it that way, I wanted to replace my hard drive, is it as easy as just putting a new drive in my xbox? because i heard about having to unlock and lock with eeprom key, is there a way i can do it without modding or unlocking and locking a hard drive? thankyou for your time everyone!

Hi, three capacitors that goes to the processor are bulging badly... red things on top etc.. Which caps are best to use? Which uF and volt for them?

What list is the most accurate for 1.6? And if anybody has a mouser or digikey part list to share I would love that.

Time passes by, so does the life of our OG Xbox Clock caps (if they are not removed already) but also technology in cap replacement options. So I wonder what the most Reasonable/ Convenient/ Easieast/ Safest/ Cost efficient/ Clock cap replacement of today could be? I know some people are not bothered without it and some people (lile myself) that would like to have it working Through the years I read that it can be everything inbetween replacing it with a 1F 2.5v original spec AeroGel cap, 10F 2.5v AeroGel for longer working time, a CR2032 battery socket with 1N4148 diod in series to prevent REcharge, which would not be good, 2.4v NiMh rechargable battery. My idea, not yet installed and tested, is to solder an AAA batteries socket with two 1.2v 800mA replaceable batteries to the old Clock Cap points and try to fit it in somewhere. The batteries gives 2.7v fully charged and would (theoretically, if the Xbox can give them enough charging) give more than enough unplugged power time and it would all in all cost around 5$. So now in 2020, what is your clock cap replacement (ideas, pictures, pros/cons, results)?