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I have a 1.4 motherboard with bulging green Sanyo caps below the CPU. I ordered board, power supply, and clock cap kits from Console5 to do the repair. I replaced all power supply caps, reinstalled and tested, normal boot. The stock Nichicon clock cap hasn't leaked or damaged the board, but I replaced it due to age and it booted normally. I then replaced the CPU caps with the provided 6.3V 3300uF caps and I get 3 boot frag. I removed the new caps and reinstalled the old and it boots as normal. Thinking the 6.3V caps may be defective, I then tried the supplied 10V 3300uF caps but still 3 boot frag. I again reinstalled the bulging green OEM caps and system boots. I double checked my power supply solder joints and also re-flowed for good measure. I have experience and success with micro soldering and don't believe my soldering is the problem. Especially since I've reinstalled the original bulging capacitors multiple times and the system again boots. Could one of the other board capacitors be causing the issue when new CPU caps are installed?
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I got recently an original black Xbox (the very classic so) but I would like to change the case for another one, like a reproduction of the Halo 2 Bell Ice Blue edition one. I know it would be not legit, but I just want to have one that look like this. It's just for fun and cosmetic for me. How to get one ? Should I try 3D Printing ? Or can I find some here or somewhere else ?
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Coming soon from Andr0 on the xbox discord is this neat looking USB-C power supply. Future add-ons include always on separate rails etc...
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I want to recap a 1.4 and 1.6 Xbox so I need a complete list of capacitors with part numbers. I found the Replacement Capacitor Reference Guide by NeMesiS? The link to the PDF in the original post is dead so I attached it to this post. The list appears to be very good with all the information need, but I noticed that some capacitors have been changed from their original values. For a 1.4 Xbox, C1G1, C7G1 have been changed from 3300uF 10v to 2200uF 10v and C2F1 has been filled in with a 2200uF 10v. The CPU caps C1E1, C2E4, C3E2 have been changed from 3300uF 6.3v to 1500uF 6.3v and C2E3, C2E5 have been filled in with 1500uF 6.3v. I'm not an electronics expert, but I assumed that when replacing capacitors you should keep the capacitance the same, and voltage should be the same or higher. Can someone please comment on the changes to the capacitor values? Xbox Replacement Capacitor Replacement Guide.pdf
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What's the best replacement fan to make the Xbox run quieter?
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Hello everyone it has been a long time since I have been on this forum for me. I recently wanted to play again on my softmodded xbox but the hdd that I swaped it with makes clicking noises and when I boot it the boot menu lags, when I am in the xbmc4games dashboard it says that the network is busy and I do not get an ip address. When I put in a disk it does not load. I still have my old hdd could I make a new drive using chimp? (If I am correctly the tool I upgraded my hdd with was called chimp) Thanks in advance advice would be appreciated!
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Has anyone replaced a controllers cable before? I've got 2 controllers that play up, If I bend the cable in a certain spot they both work, it's damage inside the cable right up near where it goes into the controller, I wrap them in lots of tape and they stay working as the cable can't bend then. I ordered some replacement cables from Aliexpress thinking I'd just swap them over, yet the Aliexpress cables only have 4 wires, and my controllers have 6. This is the replacement cables I bought, I bought a few of them so I'd have spares. I see in the feedback from buyers people have made them work by soldering the yellow wire on the cable to the location of the green wire, here is a couple of photos where people have done it Does this seem right? Am I safe to do this and not blow my USB ports on my Xbox when I plug it in? Will it work as its meant to with 2 wires missing? Seems odd.
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So my plan is to design an aftermarket original xbox case that keeps all the original components (mainboard with heatsinks, controller ports, dvd rom, psu, hdd, etc) with the possible exception of the rear fan and metal shielding. To achieve this I have been 3d modelling all of the internals to ensure everything fits. I have some ideas on the style I want to go for but have some questions. 1. Should I include a place to mount an lcd/oled? 2. Would you want to keep the xbox jewel? 3. Hdd/lan activity leds? 4. Any other requests Once I have some feedback the most popular features will be integrated. For now here are some of the 3d modelled components (to scale)
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Can someone recommend where I can buy a replacement IDE ribbon that... - is the right length - has connectors at appropriate spots for both optical drive and HDD I am located in British Columbia, Canada on the far west coast. And lastly, if I'm using a stock HDD will it work with a 80pin ribbon instead of a stock 40pin? Lastly, will I get faster speeds with the 80pin? Thanks
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Hey gang, So my son was helping me work an HDMI install for a fun father-son project. Long story short he broke the legs on the encoder and I had to pull it. I need to source a new one and was hoping someone knew of a place I could get just the chip. I have a Version 1 motherboard. Worst case scenario I get another motherboard as a donor but I’m not trying to do that if I don’t have to. I don’t really want to scrap this one either because we already did the ram upgrade, recapped the whole thing and installed a mod chip. Thanks for the help.
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Full Controller 5 pin replacement cables with Breakaway Cable
Incursion64 posted a topic in For Sale
Hi Everyone, i'm currently offering these replacement cables in an effort to bring back to life as many original xbox Microsoft branded controllers as possible! This cable includes a 5 pin connector so it has all of the data lines that the xbox cable uses. It's a simple replacement, just de-solder the existent pin connector, and put this in it's place. This is a full length cord, includes the breakaway, ferrite cores, strain relief etc. It can also be used as a replacement on most (maybe all) of the cheap aftermarket controllers if you want to be able to use sit further from your monitor/TV. The new connector inserts vertically, the old one lays on it's side, this has no effect on the shell. There is one other difference i will point out for complete transparency. The original xbox controller uses 5 data lines, and has 1 chunky stranded line of shielding that is soldered as a 6th pin. These do not have that 6th pin. For comparison, the cheap aftermarket controllers use 4 pins in their wiring (missing the yellow wire), have no breakaway cable, and are only 5-6 feet in length. These ship from the US, and currently listed at $5.99 per cable. I do have a shopify store for easy payment options, but will not link that here until i have permission to do so. If you are interested, please drop a comment and feel free to PM me. Bulk rates are an option, just have to figure out the best method of shipping whatever qty it is you may be interested in.- 18 replies
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Hello! I hope someone is still alive here!! Well that's it, is there currently an adapter to replace the power supply of an Xbox version 1.6? Something like the AT2XBOX project launched
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So I replaced my capacitors as suggested on my V1 motherboard due to leaking on the clock cap. Video had no problems before but now the video gets a bit intermittent/bars on the screen and the sound starts to squeal. Help me out please. Novice here so any pros would be greatly appreciated lol note I replaced the three 16V 1500 and two 10v3300 caps.
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Hey everyone! Figured I'd share a replacement for the XBMC4Gamers start-up screen I made. I love the dashboard but didn't feel it fit with the Xbox's design language. I've found that if you're running the 'night' theme like me, you'll need to find and replace the "night.png" image at C:\skins\Profile Skin\extras\themes\splashes\night.png, this took me forever to find lol. Enjoy!
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Hello everyone. I have not done anything with my original Xbox 1.6b since I softmodded it over 15 years ago, and recently it stopped powering on. I've tried googling and researching, but the loss of Sickmods (and others that I probably don't know about) has made it difficult to find information. Attempts So far: Eject or power button does nothing. Replaced the 5 main caps that are known to leak (I'm pretty sure I did this 10 years ago as well, but had parts on hand so did it anyways) I have replaced the transistor near the clock cap (q7c2) I'm pretty sure its the power supply itself, (Its the Samsung Tuscany one) so I have been trying to modify an ATX supply to use to test. On the earlier versions of the XBox there are lots of information and adaptors, but not the 1.6b. The pinouts I have found for the 1.6 xbox (See below) show it needing 4 lines on 5Vsb, and only one standard 5V line: I'm pretty sure this is backwards, and it should be 1 standby line and 4 regular, can someone with more experience confirm? The other question is regarding the N64Freak adaptor board diagram: From what I have read the 1.6 uses 5Vsb instead of 3.3Vsb, can I omit the LM3490, the 33uf cap, and the link to the ground plane like so: Thank you in advance for any help you are able to provide, and if you have any good tips for a guy who is 15 years out of the scene, let me know.
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They fall off, and it's heartbreaking. Don't worry, they can be replaced. I honestly think they look better than the regular translucent white ones. You get what is pictured here in the top photo. 25 shipped.
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What are the best replacement parts for the Original Xbox and where would I buy them? Thanks to you I've already gotten a new IDE cable and bands for my DVD Drive https://www.ebay.com/itm/264927666468?hash=item3daeeb6124:g:fDoAAOSwYVZfNwU1 https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Drive-Replacement-Drives-Stuck/dp/B079VQCYSM Monoprice AC Cables are amazing Just in case, I'm looking for the rest of the internal wiring Such as the 4 pin peripheral power cable, is the base a standard ATX? What about the power cord for the DVD Drive? What about new ThumbSticks? I heard they can be found on ebay, but there are dozens of sellers, and some even say those don't fit properly. Where do I buy new capacitors? What about external wiring? Whats the best component cable? Best RCA Composite Cable? Once again Monoprice for AV Cable. (I use both the Chimera HDMI and the RetroTink 5x for my gaming) Just trying to rebuild my X-box, and a couple junkers I have so they can last another 20yrs.
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As some of you know, I have been working on a suitable replacement laser/diode for the original Xbox laser. While I have narrowed down the suitable drives (Thomson being the one that needs to be left behind) a replacement laser lens has emerged that works beautifully with the Phillips VAD6011/21 Drive. i did not discover this laser, but was made aware of it by a Reddit post. I am not sure of the link rules so I’m only going to link to my Reddit group where I posted about this in its entirety as I was able to complete the testing today! https://www.reddit.com/r/OGXboxDVDDriveRevival/s/bZ4mKqtrsn With the laser in production, it’s a great option for the foreseeable future, ensuring discs can be enjoyed!
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Hi, I recently bought four xbox one controllers not tested for repair them, I had very good surprises in the lot, only one needs micro soldering to be repaired, except that the problem comes that controllers are not 100% official (both brands appear have permissions from Microsoft to manufacture and sell controllers), the controller in question is a PowerA and I have to change the micro USB port except that I can't find a replacement micro USB port on the net and no one seems to have documented this subject, I wanted to know if one of you had already changed a micro USB port of a PowerA controller and if he still had the reference of the port used for the repair, thanks. Have a good day
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Hello, Doing a mod on a board (1.3 i believe) and C7D1 decided it wanted to leave the chat. As such, i cant find its value anymore to get a replacement. Does anybody know this? Otherwise, does anybody know what other one i can remove from a spare board that doesnt have this? Its right below R7D2. Last time i try and do a mod install after a shitty nights sleep i swear.
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Time passes by, so does the life of our OG Xbox Clock caps (if they are not removed already) but also technology in cap replacement options. So I wonder what the most Reasonable/ Convenient/ Easieast/ Safest/ Cost efficient/ Clock cap replacement of today could be? I know some people are not bothered without it and some people (lile myself) that would like to have it working Through the years I read that it can be everything inbetween replacing it with a 1F 2.5v original spec AeroGel cap, 10F 2.5v AeroGel for longer working time, a CR2032 battery socket with 1N4148 diod in series to prevent REcharge, which would not be good, 2.4v NiMh rechargable battery. My idea, not yet installed and tested, is to solder an AAA batteries socket with two 1.2v 800mA replaceable batteries to the old Clock Cap points and try to fit it in somewhere. The batteries gives 2.7v fully charged and would (theoretically, if the Xbox can give them enough charging) give more than enough unplugged power time and it would all in all cost around 5$. So now in 2020, what is your clock cap replacement (ideas, pictures, pros/cons, results)?
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As usual, they gouge you if you try to buy a rubber belt for the original Xbox if they actually call it a belt for the original Xbox. But I heard you could use 23mm or so rubber O rings from the plumber's section of a store. Since I loathe the idea of spending $3.00+ for 1 "official" OGXbox drive belt, what are the exact size measurements (or close to) for the actual OGXbox drive belts so I can attempt an approximation with a 10 for a buck O ring? I want to resurrect my Xbox's troublesome disc drive that refuses to come out of it's shell, like a shy turtle.
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H all, I attempted to recap a 1.6 . I thought things went alright, however instead it no longer works at all. When I first saw plug it in the LED on the Aladdin lights as usually, but quicks dims out. After unplugging and waiting a bit, and then again trying again, the Aladdin lights again then off again. I’m guessing one or more the caps didn’t flow to trace or something. Is that what I should expect with a missing cal?
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48