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This is going to start out as just being copied directly over from my thread on BitBuilt about the project. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/xboxpsu.3387/ The xbox has some mildly odd power requirements. It uses the same 20 pin Molex MiniFit Jr connector that an ATX PSU output, however the pinout is completely different. As it stands, the typical solution is to use a PicoPSU, a small ATX PSU, a modify it to work with the original xbox. PicoPSUs can be had for around $15, the power supplies for them can be had for around $10. It's a very inexpensive solution. Traditionally when this is done, the Power OK and Power On lines are ignored, the PSU is set to always on, and the wires are run all catywumpus to get to where they need to go. While this solution works, it's definitely a hack, and I believe we can do better. So what are the xbox's actual power requirements? While I haven't actually cut up a power supply and tried to get the xbox to full load while measuring the current draw, I have a V1.1 PSU here that handily has the power requirements right on the label. Max Output Power: 96W DC Output: +5V -- 13.2A +3.3V -- 4.8A +12V --1.2A +3VSB -- 0.045A I hope it's safe to assume that further revisions of the xbox had similar or lower power draw. Regardless, this seems like a good starting point. So, how do I plan to accomplish this? With 4x LM2678 Regulators from Texas Instruments. http://www.ti.com/product/LM2678 Why 4 regulators for 3 voltages? The LM2678 is a 5A regulator. I need 13.2A on the 5V line. Having looked at the specs for the PicoPSUs that seem to work just fine, they're rated for 8A on the 5V line. This leads me to believe that 10A should suffice, so I'll need two regulators for 5V. I'll also need a 12V regulator, as I plan to run this off of an easily obtainable laptop power supply rather than needing to source an 8A 12V supply. I will also be designing a smaller footprint alternative that runs off of 12v for when space is of the highest concern. I'll likely also break down the xbox's power requirements even further at some point to see if I can't design a PSU that allows for aggressive trimming, but that's much further down the road. -------------------------------------------- I've designed the first iteration of the 24v board, it's 60*32mm. Now that it's done, I don't like it for a variety of reasons. I'm going to try again, putting the low profile components on the backside of the board and the tall components on the topside of it. Maybe I'll be able to squish it down a bit more in the process. -------------------------------------------- There, that's a little better. 27.5*49.25 mm -------------------------------------------- Oh, hey, I worked on this a bit. I ditched the 12v regulator and changed it to 12v in. I also had to source different inductors, which are sadly larger, so the whole board got a couple of mm wider in the process. 26.5mm*57.2mm I think I'm gonna actually order this one, and see if it works. -------------------------------------------- I've since looked at the most recent revision and noticed a couple of flaws in it. I've repaired those flaws, and I'm gonna sleep on it again, look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow, and probably order it.

I have been working very, very hard over the last 5 months. I have wanted to create a modchip ever since the days of the Xecuter 3. This does not match that level of mod... However, I have tried to do the best job I can at creating something unique and special. This is the BSX Nova. It encompasses pretty much the entire ModXO pinout and I don't think anything is missing. It should lay a pretty good foundation for what is currently supported and what is planned for the future. There is the Display and Expansion I2C/SPI ports, Motherboard I2C (for things like plugging in HDMI mods and programming with ElpisHD/Cerbios), RGB, UART, and the USB header for the front panel ad future add-ons, whichever works for you. I have a few other mods that are all basically finished and will officially announce them when I plan to go to production with them. I realized that people may not want to spend so much on a flagship modchip, so I thought maybe a cut down version would be a good idea for those not wanting to spend so much. This is the BSX Mini. Please forgive the flux mess; It's stuck in a console right now and I don't wanna remove it. I removed the SD-Card, I2C expansion (still has the Display port) and onboard USB and bootsel button. This allowed me to cut it down to an INCREDIBLY small size and will allow me to sell it at a cheaper price than the Nova. I did give it the Amber eyes though, so I could replace those features with something cool. Both chips feature a dupont docket D0 wire, which will allow for simple install and removal, and especially if you need to remove and install the chip several times before finishing your build you won't have to solder and de-solder multiple times. You just unplug, and pull it out. Then when you wanna put it back, you just pop it on the pin header and plug D0 back in. No soldering ever necessary in that respect. However, there is still a D0 solder pad for when you need or want it. There are no power incompatibilities with 1.6 motherboards. You just rebuild the LPC, hook up D0 to the chip and you're good. The chip will not remain powered by the 5V standby pin when the console is off. The Nova has the entire pinout currently proposed by Team Resurgent. The Mini has about 80%, but has most of the features that anybody could ever want, once those things have fully developed. I have been hesitant to make an announcement for a while now because of concerns about the pinout changing or whatever else may happen. But I really didn't want to keep it to myself for any longer. I am going to go into production soon and am making sure I do everything I can to make it ready to go. I have been working on my mods non-stop for several months now (There is more than just the chips) and have done nothing else with my free time. I've worked VERY hard to try to make these things look polished and professional (Will be ENIG treated) as well as having a robust design and several small considerations that should help rule out bugs or malfunctions. I am going to do a run of the Nova and Mini, small at first and if they end up being popular, I will continue to invest in them over and over until I gain a full head of steam! Let me know if you have questions about features or how things work. The front panel PCB has a Bootsel button, Status LED and USB port for firmware updating the chip from outside the console. The status LED can have its color chosen in PrometheOS and indicates status from the outside of the console, not stuck on the chip. I'm happy with that feature. I would like to credit !!!thexkey for giving me the original template of the schematic with symbols. He asked, "Can you make a modchip with this?" I said, "I have no friggin' idea... but I'll try!" I had never heard of kiCAD or anything before then and this is my first hardware development project. I have fallen in love with hardware design and I am never going to stop! I would like to thank both him and Harcroft for sitting with me for a week or two at night and helping me understand the basics and everything I would need to know in order to get a basic modxo chip to function. It has definitely come a long way since then, as you can see here. Special thanks go out to Team Resurgent and Shalx. This project would not be possible without their work and I am so incredibly, infinitely grateful for what their work has enabled me to accomplish. I cannot thank them enough. Seriously. The status LED up front is a bit bright in these photos, but i have already dimmed it to an appropriate level since these were taken. It is no longer blinding. This can be seen in the last video, which also shows that the status LED is able to have the idle color changed in PrometheOS. I have a Discord server where people can hop in and see what's going on with the project. Feel free to stop by and get in contact. https://discord.gg/kFRKK77dEk

Hi all, wondering if I can get a solution to what I hope for someone reading is a very simple problem! I have received a new console that came with Stellar and a 1TB HDD. It came pre-loaded with emulators etc. The problem is that the only extended F drive (no G) is meant to have around 924GB of free space but it appears to be missing around 400GB. I have gone into various dashboards and when calculating the space used in F it equals around 500GB. Everything works and I have transferred some other games over etc but there's 100% a lot of space missing. I've also looked at the drive in XBpartitioner 1.3 and it shows 1 extended partition with 924.06 free so I really don't understand. Thanks in advance.

Got my hands on a BSX Mini.. The chip looks and functions amazing. I can personally recommend this chip to anyone either on a budget or wanting something simple. The design quality over all feels solid but compact in my hands. I love the LEDs for the eyes on Johnny. The front panel's quality is sturdy, and I love the change of it from Micro-USB to USB-C port on it, and the LEDs are perfect with adjustable settings in PrometheOS. This chip is over all easy and convenient. Amazing work as always @Bowlsnapper! I’m excited to see what’s next for the BSX project!

Project Gotham Racing is by far one of the best racing games on the original Xbox, at least in my opinion. I was recently talking to someone on YouTube, and the idea came to mind of how the game could be reverse engineered to make it playable on PC natively. As some of you may know, PGR 1 still has several rendering issues on emulators to this day, especially on CXBX Reloaded (with several serious texture and sound bugs) and Xemu (where the game runs but there are several Z-order issues [which generally cause problems with structures becoming invisible from certain angles, making us see things we shouldn't] and the game tends to suffer from abysmal power and sound issues where cars sound louder than usual) which are the main emulators for the original Xbox. And although backwards compatibility exists, it (Project Gotham Racing) is non-existent on latest-generation Xbox consoles (Xbox One, Xbox Series X, Xbox Series S), and on Xbox 360 it tends to suffer from the same performance issues and FPS drops. This would be one of the main reasons why it would be interesting for me to reverse engineer the first PGR in order to port it to PC and make it natively playable on that platform. The second reason for my interest in reverse engineering the game, is the lack of interest I see in PGR games prior to PGR 2 or PGR 3. Because when talking about the franchise, often times the first Project Gotham Racing, and sometimes its spiritual predecessor, Metropolis Street Racer on the Dreamcast, are never mentioned or are not of interest to many people. So my reasons are: - Lack of interest in general for the first Project Gotham Racing game - Being backed by terrible performance and functionality on emulators and backwards compatibility Now, to that people: I'm not at all, in any way, shape or form, asking for a native PC port of the game or anything like that, I'm simply making this post to get your thoughts on a native PC port of the first PGR, and also learn a bit more about original Xbox game reverse engineering.

Thoughts? Looks very interesting https://makemhz.com/blogs/news/announcing-project-stellar-plus-more

Hello everyone, I have a !.0 MOBO that I have recently installed Project stellar on along with the HD+ kit from MakeMhz. I had the ribbon cable to the video encoder professionally soldered on but the rest of the install I was able to complete myself. once i reassembled the unit I was able to get it to post with only the mod chip with no DVD or HDD drive but I had no audio only the splash screen. I then completely reassembled to see if it was an issue with no hard drive (shouldn't be i thought to myself) so unsurprisingly it still had no audio (but the picture is OUTSTANDING). anyway I took everything apart to check my work and now seem to have narrowed down the sound issue to hopefully a bad wire included in the kit or a setting issue on the MS DASH feel free to let me know your thoughts on the audio issue as well. BUT when going to try the MS DASH first i reassembled and now the mod chip itself (project stellar) wont boot idk if the xbox is bricked now or what, I seem to get power to the chip as seen by the little green indicator light on the bottom of the chip but the tiny screen does not display anything not even an error code. So I reconnected the chip to my PC and found that the screen itself does in fact work it displays "PC Mode" so I know the screen didn't die and all of the firmware and bios seem to be on the chip and website tells me that the chip is ready for install now. I figure I should get the chip working first before I can do anymore diagnosing on this thing. At this point I am lost. I'm just trying to make a good birthday present for my little brother. please any help is appreciated TIA!

Hello I just instaled Project stellar and Hd+ to my Xbox 1.3. After the install the console boots up everything workes okay for 1-2 min, but then the xbox fan spikes up and the console flash orange for overheating. The fan do spike up for a second when you turn the xbox on to. The image was very green to. I removed clock capasitor and changed the ones on CPU and cleaned the board and looked at every thing and all look fine no corrotion. The xbox did worke with an old aladdin mode chip before. Any ide of what the problem can be? Sorry for my bad English. Thanx

Hello all, Browsing the site, I am aware of some drama surrounding these chips. To be clear...I want no part of that. I am having a repair done on a modded Xbox, it has an SSD already installed, it was running Open Xenium with Make MHz HD Kit. I have been given the option of a good price on a board with Stellar HD+ I just wanted to know if anyone can tell me whether some features are now available with Stellar? Specifically the UDMA and TRIM support... Also, I read somewhere that I can use Xbox One controllers like an ogx360 setup with Stellar too, is that possible? Cheers!

As title suggests... a new announcement was made today that the new xboxHD+ boards will no longer require project stellar to work. https://makemhz.com/products/xboxhd-legacy

So I pull this thing apart, and this is the solder job I see on an X3, no less: Fuck. @fox Old faceplate... New faceplate, with salvaged switch panel and a piece of double sided tape cut to size since the switch panel was being held on to it's front panel with a piece of fucking tape. I'll remove the clock cap, and redo the soldering job. May do a 128MB upgrade as well, since I have no control panel for this one.

Everytime i try to get insignia on my xbox it says it can't connect to the server than i go the troubleshooting and it says that the DNS can't be resolved i am running the connection from a bridged connection on my pc could that be causing it?

Hello good evening guys, I need to clear a doubt about the Xbox HD and the chip.... Come on, My Xbox 1.6 already has the Pin headers installed, and I want to buy Chipmod PROJECT STELLAR, I just fit it in and ready? Since you have everything done.... and another thing I'm going to buy a HD Western Blue, would that be the right one?

Does project stellar chipmod work on an xbox 1.6? And does it work independently of MakeHD+?

I've got 4 Xboxes I've softmodded for my family using Rocky's softmod tool, and I nulled the keys as well during that process (all zeros, but will soon upgrade to all ones to be compatible with Insignia - hopefully its an easy process to upgrade the softmod dashboard/tool). I currently have a larger drive in one of them that has the dashboard, emulators, and games set up just the way I want it. I want to put larger hard drives in the other three and have all four be the exact same setup. Rather than cloning the stock hard drive to a larger drive during the upgrade process and then spending the lengthy time FTPing over the hundreds of MB's of data with the data rate transmission limitations and drop outs inherent with FTP, since all the XBOX's have nulled keys I was planning on just taking the larger drive I've already set up and cloning it 3 times - and then putting those cloned drives into the other 3 xboxes. Much simpler and quicker. However, with Insignia needing the Serial Number, HDD Key, and Online Key for each Xbox would cloning a hard drive from one xbox and putting that newly created hard drive into another xbox change the way the serial number or online key is read in the "newly upgraded" Xbox and make it incompatible with Insignia? Or does it not matter as it will just pull the serial number and online key from the mobo and doing what I described above will still be compatible with Insignia? Thanks all!

Hello friends! I'm looking to make this new Modchip project called Redux. My question is which software to use to place the "VHDL" file to generate the .jed or .svf files in order to program the I.C. Lc4652? My thanks to Kekule for the project and his collaborators! link project: https://github.com/Kekule-OXC/R3DUX THXs Pcb already in manufacture. jlcpcb.com value of 5 pcs $2.00.

Newbie here! So glad to see some kind of OG Xbox community still exists! I'm not the most social bean but I will try! Hopefully I can bring a new level to the community with my tool I am working on to help build Xbox OG source code super easy, called Easy-Build Xbox EDIT: I am not sure on the rules yet of posting about and linking my tool, as the nature of it is source code, as long as there's no direct links on the forum is it okay? But for now I'm saying hi and learning about the forum!

Hey all! I recently completed and posted on a few Facebook groups a little project which I recently finished and one of your members recommend me come here and share it with you all, so here goes! The whole thing started when I decided I wanted to build a PC into an Xbox. I've done a little bit of modding here and there in the past, but nothing to this extent. Sadly I didn't make a build log as I went along, but here is the finished product for you to enjoy! The spec: Intel i5-7400 Processor running at 3.0 GHz Zotac 4GB 1050 Ti Graphics Card 16GB DDR4 Crucial Memory running at 2400 MHz MSi H110i PRO LGA1151 Mini-ITX Motherboard 250GB Samsung NVMe SSD 2TB Seagate Barracude Storage HDD 300w Game Max Power Supply It's got a custom water cooled loop in there too, and boots to Windows desktop in 13 seconds! Enjoy! shoe.

This is a copy of portions of my thread over at BitBuilt https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/xboxdvi.3304/ As some of you may know, the original xbox is really lacking in video output modes for the modern era. It is only capable of analog video out, and doesn't even support VGA through that. Early versions of the xbox use a CX25871 as the video encoder, which can take a variety of digital inputs and in turn outputs analog video. https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/153349/CONEXANT/CX25871/384/1/CX25871.html My suspicion is that the xbox uses the highest quality of these potential inputs, RGB24. If that turns out to be the case, I should be able to use the Texas Instruments TFP410 to turn these signals into DVI https://www.ti.com/product/TFP410 End goal is to have a board with a BOM of under $20 that I can then install in my absurd stack of xboxen. The catch: This is my first circuit design project and my first PCB design project, so I'm starting out way over my head. Wish me luck, I guess. -------------------------------------------------- I've since found that my initial assumptions were incorrect, and I've made it to my second prototype. It still has issues, but I'll find out soon enough if I'm on the right track. --------------------------------------------------

After several attempts at an refurbished WD 1TB SATA HDD, Kingwin ADP-06 adapter and 80 wire IDE cable, I threw those all into closet storage and went for the best instead. A brand new Samsung EVO 500GB SSD, Startech adapter and a Rontech 80 wire IDE cable...and an 80mm Noctua. Results are pretty cool to own:

So I’m working on a portable Xbox briefcase thing. I have an arcade switch on the outside of the briefcase to turn on the tv and the Xbox at the same time. The Xbox is deconstructed and laid out like a test bench computer inside the briefcase and I was wondering if I could bypass with a jumper to have the Xbox turn on with power or does it need to be a momentary switch? I appreciate any help

Has anybody encountered this issue before? I transferred the first pgr to my hard drive via ftp and initially it work great however when i reached the second stage races the game hard locks my xbox on the loading screen as the races is loading up ??

Hi is there anyone on here that will help me with a project that has a 3d printer and knows how to make small curcit boards and such pm me if you know how if you help me i have a reward for whoever can $$$

i recently came across a x3cp console locally for a great bargain since then i noticed some ppl trying to source replacements for some of the x3cp pcbs so I thought I might have a squizz and see if i could help the og scene out currently waiting for delivery on the pcbs from jlcpcb but i will release the gerbers here and on the facee page once they are tested and hopefully confirmed working any questions feel free to ask

Well, a few days ago one original xbox fell in my hands, it has lot of problems but I wanted to mod it to the max and so, I found this forum looking for help. Thank you all in advance!