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I'm really in a bind here. All my xboxes are faulty in one way or another. They're going to be hard modded, HDD upgraded, and recapped, but I want a working disk drive and I've already sunk a lot of time into this. I have a GDR-8163B, the computer BIOS recognizes it. I have a USB drive flashed (Rufus) with FreeDOS. And I have the Fixed Firmware (8050L), but when I try to flash it, I get the error "no CD/DVD Drive". I am at a loss of what to do to make this work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, I've been lurking around here for a couple days, but haven't found anyone with the same issue so I thought I'd ask. I have a v1.0, never modded, xbox (original and only owner). Last time I used it (about a year ago), it was working great, but when I turned it on the other day, it attempted to boot three times, then started flashing red and orange. I was able to get it to boot after restarting it a few times, and I played through a game for about 5 min (then game froze due to a scratch, I'm pretty sure), but I have not been able to get it to start up again since (just 3 reboots and FOAR). If I hit the disc eject button once it's FOAR, the TV will show the green blob come on screen (it freezes after less than a second), but I'll continue to hear the music that goes with it (haven't left it on long enough to see if it goes to main menu and i can hear the sound of changing menu selection). I've seen a few '3 reboots and FRAG' articles, so I'm curious if this is the same situation, but maybe error colors are different for the earlier xboxes? Based on what I've read so far, I've checked the following: Cleaned the innards of most of the dust (had never opened it up in my 18+ years of ownership) LPC traces are undamaged (even did continuity check for sanity sake) Reseated all connectors Checked PSU voltages -- this was an interesting one, all voltages were correct, except for the power on signal (pin 11/teal wire), which i measured to be be 2.6V, not 3.3V Clock cap wasn't bulging, but it does look like it leaked a little, so i removed that, cleaned the area, but I don't see any damaged traces I'm planning on replacing all the caps on the board as a next step, but I'm wondering if anyone has an idea for something else worth testing to figure out what might be causing the error state. I'm so curious if the 2.6V power on signal is an indicator of anything. Does that get set by the CPU or the PSU? Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions!

I prepped a version 1.2 today for TSOP flashing. Everything went well, I flashed Evox M8 BIOS to it and set up the disk with the latest Hexen disk. A little later, I decided to flash Cerbios 2.3.1 to it and I chose UDMA4. This is a stock hard drive, so when I would boot up, it would give me an error 13 code....then boot me into Cerbios Safe Mode. No problem, the TSOP wasn't ruined or anything, so I was able to re-flash it, this time with UDMA2. The things you learn.... I'm just going to put this console on the shelf for now until I'm ready to do the rest of my mods. I plan on using UDMA5 with a cheap IDE-to-SATA adapter that I've used successfully on three other TSOP'ed machines.

I'm attempting to flash the official wireless D-Link firmware to the adapter. I'll look for the firmware now.

I'm bringing up my console collection to the modern ages... Or at least trying to keep them from wasting away in a pile of leaky capacitor fluid. I have a 1.4 OG that was modded with a Xenium Blue chip. Original HD, DVD, etc. Just modded to turn it into a media box back in the day. Prior to the restoration, I would get an initial green light, then flashing red light constantly. I've recapped the entire system, reflowed the LPC to the Xenium, and verified continuity. There was slight corrosion under the clock cap and a few of the CPU caps had bulged. Post-rehab, I can boot initially to the XeniumOS 1.0 menu. I have two old BIOS images available along with "Original BIOS", however when any of the options are selected the eject button LED goes from solid green immediately to a flashing red light. Two spin-ups of what I believe is the DVD drive, no video, no audio. Flashing red continues until a single press of the power button shuts down the system. Eject button works during this time. Component A/V cables will not work display the XeniumOS menu, but RCA cables will. I've seen another post on reddit discuss an EEPROM failure as the potential cause, and I'm starting to think that's most likely it. In the EEPROM tools section, the Game Region is "INVALID!" and cannot be flashed to another region. Before I go down the rabbit hole of procuring another EEROM, flashing, and reinstallation I wanted to see if anyone here had any other thoughts on the issue. I appreciate any insight you folks may have. Thanks!

Hi all, just finished a cerbios build for a friend. It’s a 1.2 with a 4TB drive. I’m finding that every so often the system will freeze. When I reboot the system, I’ll just have a black screen or sometimes black screen with a sporadic blink of an image onscreen. Then I’ll get a quick green flash on the eject light. Does anyone know what a flashing green light might mean?

I have just found an Xbox v1.1 during a unit clearance so I have no idea of the history. The unit powers on for a few seconds and powers down again, it is flashing just orange and the fan is at full speed. The 5 3300uF caps by the power supply connector have been swapped but no other signs of soldering that I can see on the LPC port or anywhere else. It had a leaking battery cap but only minor. I have removed it, washed the corrosion of with vinegar and then isopropyl but no change. I can't see any broken traces and I have belled the long traces underneath on the front edge (I have read these area common failure) but they are OK. The advice online seems to be that it is a mod problem. Clearly it hasn't been hard modded. It may have a softmod gone wrong so perhaps putting in a modchip might be a good idea so the XBOX has a known working BIOS. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks...

1.Does too much Flashing reduce the life of the TSOP? 2.also someone said: the bioses that load from hdd (like ind-bios Cerbios etc.) They reduce the life of the TSOP is it true?

Hi, I have an Xbox which I believe is 1.0 (fan on the GPU). It's one I've had for a while and used to be working, I had it softmodded and at some point it stopped working so I just put it in a cupboard and used a different one. Recently I thought I'd try to fix it. When I opened it the clock cap had of course leaked, but the corrosion didn't seem too serious. I removed it and cleaned up with no change. The symptoms are as follows: On power on, green light, it shuts off almost immediately, tries again, turns off again, on third boot it stays on and the light flashes green/red rapidly Optical drive won't open No video output No change when IDE devices disconnected I have tried a PSU from a known working system with no change, and cleaned the board thoroughly with IPA. Does anyone have any other suggestions that might help me out with this? Thanks!

Hello, Some help would be really appreciated. I really don't understand why it occurs. But it's the second PAL OG XBOX 1.6 that "dies" after doing the modchip : Open Xenium with LPC Rebuild. I have successfully followed this tutorial (and the solder joints look good): - 1st one working fine during a week after Xenium mod chip LPC Rebuild + Version 2.3.5 Make MHZ then sudden black screen and after Flashing Red and Light - 2nd one working fine after Xenium mod chip LPC Rebuild + Version 2.3.5 Make MHZ: Then died after one hour same symptom Flashing Red and Green. Is there a way to fix this Red and Green issue? Tried different power supplies did not make a change. Seems to be an issue for the motherboard?

I've got one of these Aladdin XT clones from Aliexpress and want to flash it with XBlast instead of using the openxenium for testing my boards I do ram upgrade on. From what I read some said that the SST49LF020A chip needs to be replaced with SST49LF080A. Anyone has more idea of how this is exactly done or is there a write up about this? I've attached a picture of the SST49LF020A that's on the Aladdin XT I got at the moment/

so can i flash the og bios to the tsop? i used flashbios to flash evox but i don't remember if the og bios file is in there if you ask why, well i have an smartxx with bunch of bios banks so don't need the tsop to have another custom bios

Hey all, Having some issues here. I fired up my Xbox after some time and Xbox wasn't seeing my games on F and G. So I tried to reflash with M8+_16 from both slayer and HeXEn dvd with no luck. Here is the error I get. It was once working so not sure what's going on, I did reflow solder point and there are notl issues getting to a dashboard but my F and G will not show up. Also, I did not have the 1.6 bridges on the Modchip. Thank you for any help!

I've read that this could be a failed memory module but I'd like some more info before I go ahead and start replacing those. I've seen some things that conflict with that info; LPC pin 5's trace, video encoder, etc. random nonsense. The board looks clean, I can't see any corrosion or trace damage, caps looks fine, I scrubbed it with IPA especially around the RAM and had no luck. Maybe someone else that's dealt with this before can share their experience.

https://youtu.be/5V48rYfqE6E This guide is a start to finish how to softmod a xbox (upgrade a softmodeded hdd too) and also how to TSOP flash any xbox (excluding mb v1.6) including flashing winbond & sharp tsop chips. All the files needed are included in the video description. I DIDNT MAKE ANY OF THE TOOLS FULL CREDITS GO TO THE DEVS, I just collected them all in one place.

So there are some things I'm trying to figure out and having a hard time with, due to old, contradictory, or lack of info out there, and I'd greatly appreciate any thoughts. For reference, I have one each of v1.0 and v1.1, both with Xecuter 2.6 Lite chips. If caps require replacement (not the clock cap), are there any known to have special requirements for ripple or ESR? I'm thinking regular polymer electrolytic caps from Rubycon or Nichicon would be fine? Is there any reason to use FlashBIOS instead of XBlast? Assuming they're both stable, it looks like XBlast outright has more features. Are the FlashBIOS/XBlast web flashing interfaces reasonably safe to use? Without exploitable games or an Xbox/USB adapter, would the best way to TSOP flash a modchipped Xbox involve FTP backup of C&E, mod the backup with ndure, FTP it back to the Xbox, and turn off the modchip, then flash TSOP from the softmod dash? Can Xblast be flashed to TSOP safely? I've seen posts arguing both ways. If it can, could Xblast on TSOP be used to flash a modchip, if the chip is turned on after booting?

I have a crystal xbox that has been running fine with a x3 chip, I believe its a 1.4 with a Focus video chip. I flashed the bios and set it up for a 2tb hard drive and all was fine. I have stripped the xbox down, cleaned everything, removed the heat sinks, cleaned and added new thermal paste. After rebuilding the xbox it fires up, 3x green blinks between power down then sits flashing red/green. It does the same if I have the x3 in or not. Have I damaged the board while handling? I have checked the chip soldering and D0, cleaned and re-flowed/re-soldered. But it still behaves the same. Any ideas/advice?

I have a 1.0 TSOP was done by a friend years ago wanted to put the orgin 2tb image on it so i ran hexen 2018 got the harddrive installed was trying to figure out how to change to 64 bit clusters it said 16 But here were it all went wrong i put the hexen 2019 while browsing the disc went to use the bathroom left my xbox unattended when i came back my 6 year old nephew was holding the controller in his hand. The box ROL was flashing yellow and red and a blue screen (attached a image of the screen the box is stuck on) . i am pretty much a noob when it comes to og xbox. just wondering if it could be fixed or is it toast .. Thanks for any help

Hello Guys. I need some advice. I have a Xbox 1.4 with a windbond chip that I TSOPed a few years ago using a Hexen disk, I don't remember exactly the bios that was flashed, but when I turn on the xbox the evoX logo comes up, so I'm gonna guess my xbox has a m8 plus. The console works fine, but the fan is very noisy (it's a Sunon), so today I disassembled the xbox, replaced the thermal paste in both gpu and cpu (i've gained like 5 degrees), cleaned and oiled the fan and...it's still very very noisy and loud. So, I've been looking for a replacement fan, and found that people recommend the "Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan". But, they also recommend to up the fan speed (to 40% I think) because by default, it won't cool the console as the stock fan does. To do that, ¿I should flash a new Bios right? the m8 plus using EVtools and selecting 40% fan speed? something like this: My DVD drive is dead, so I can't use Hexen, or the OGXBOX Installer, but I can FTP to the console. Any advice on flashing a windbond chip? Thank you so much for your time.

I have a 1.0 and I flashed XBlast to the TSOP then tested each chip as I went. Once all 4 were passing I reinstalled OpenXenium and attempted to boot iND-BIOS-5003. Only, the LED flashes green and it doesn't boot. I tested several homebrew BIOS loaded from OpenXenium and they all have the same problem. I'm considering triple-checking for shorts (or reflowing with hot air) yet I'm surprised because XBlast boots and says all 4 RAM passes. I found a couple of Reddit posts with the exact problem: https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/7fppvw/attempted_128mb_upgrade_wont_boot_flashing_green/ https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/epel27/no_soundvideo_flashing_green_light_after_128mb/ I'd like to avoid doing anything drastic as XBlast finally states all 4 RAM are passing. The only other oddity is (even before this above error) when FTP to OpenXenium the drives (C, E, F) do not show up. Yet, the drives were available when FTP to a homebrew dash like UnleashX. Tested a different XBOX and FTP to OpenXenium all drivers were available.

Trying to rescue a 1.6 box. The unit booted to microsoft dash but dvd rom drive has failed, tried cleaning and pot adjustment, no luck. Next obvious option was installing a modchip.Installed an Aladdin XT plus I had working in another 1.6 as was already flashed. On boot I get the unit cycle on and off until the third attempt where it flashes Green and red really fast. I removed the lpc wiring and modchip, even pinheader, checked for damage, the header is perfect and the xbox boots normally. I have never had an issue like this before. Do I just keep trying to install again or am i missing something. Does the 3 boot attempts mean something? I am unsure to the sequence of events from pressing the power button. Any pointers, help would be appreciated. Just dont want to throw it out. Update, the green / red fragging is not modchip related and happens intermittently when running the box without a modchip. Progressively worse the more boot resets.

Hello everyone. I just finished TSOPing an Xbox model 1.1 and decided I wanted to flash Cerbios 2.01 Retail, and after flashing I have a red/green flashing light with no picture. The system is hooked up via composite (yellow, red and white) video cables and now I have no picture. I cannot access FTP, either. I was also sure to FTP over the Cerbios.ini and boot animations to the root of C ahead of flashing. Can anyone help or point me in the right direction? Thank you.

This may be of interest to some. It saves having to Soft-Mod to flash the TSOP. I know is low quality video but you should get the idea SS Dave Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.

So I've finally decided to pull out my old 1.6 Xbox which I got from a friend who modded it again. It doesn't boot up properly anymore. No video output and it boots up and shuts back down 3 times before it turn to a red/green flashing icon. Disk tray works normally, I can hear the HDD spin up, but I haven't been able to test it yet. I'm at a loss what to do. Here is a picture of the mod chip:

Hi i have a Xbox 1.0 with a corrupt bios and i discovered that the TSOP mod wasn’t done before i flashed it and ended up corrupting the bios. I tried the 3 wire trick and that didn’t work and can’t seem to find any bios reflash settings on the Open Xenium mod chip. So that really only leaves me with flashing a new chip and soldering it in. Is that the only option i have?