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Evening everyone. Tried to post this on /OriginalXbox and for some reason my post isn't going up even though I've been active in it for sometime now. Anyway here is what I am trying to do: Hey fam! I have a 6 Xboxes. 3 are 1.0 and all have chips. 2 Jafars, one x2.0 pro. Most had issues one way or another and I had the chips lying around anyway. So out of convenience at the time, I installed them. I figure I don't need them in there. I already understand the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." I just want the chips for other boxes. Definitely not new to the OG, I've just never swapped mods other than chips. I have TSOP'd before, so bridging points is not a problem. I am just trying to figure out steps. These are my thoughts: Drives are all unlocked (partitioned, formatted, no retail/stock dash), so I am thinking pull the drives, rebuild to stock with FatXplorer, install the drive back in the box, then relock with the modchip still in. Pull the modchip and disconnect d0 Bridge points Boot from exploitable game Use SweetDarkDestiny's TSOP MC Flash Program or his flasher disc Profit? Just looking to see if anyone has done something similar and if this process sounds like it will work? Looking for any and all input other than "don't do it." If I mess up, I still have the chips right?

I haven't used my og Xbox for a while I decided I wanted it set up and to play it again did all of that and it goes to boot up gives me a display but shows the contact service center with error code 12. I looked up the code and it points to the dvd drive. I've opened it cleaned it and still no luck. What are my options would a hard mod and no dvd bios be a better fix than replacing the drive? Or would buying a parts machine be better. Thanks Kyran.

I started working on an alternative to the HD AV pack but with added SPDIF RCA, as well as an internally mountable version with a 3d printed panel to snap or screw into the outer case if anyone would be interested in that. I liked the XOSVP's use of a VGA connector so I've included that and I see most designs with YPbPr output using 75ohm resistors, but are these actually necessary if my traces are wide enough to have an impedance of 75 ohms and will they make a difference on the L/R analog audio connections? I've only started learning this stuff recently so I'd like to know if anything about the schematic is no good. I'll post the design and editable PCB once I have it finalized. Integrally mounted version with DPDT switch to enable av mode 2+3: based on this diagram:

Hello Guys. I need some advice. I have a Xbox 1.4 with a windbond chip that I TSOPed a few years ago using a Hexen disk, I don't remember exactly the bios that was flashed, but when I turn on the xbox the evoX logo comes up, so I'm gonna guess my xbox has a m8 plus. The console works fine, but the fan is very noisy (it's a Sunon), so today I disassembled the xbox, replaced the thermal paste in both gpu and cpu (i've gained like 5 degrees), cleaned and oiled the fan and...it's still very very noisy and loud. So, I've been looking for a replacement fan, and found that people recommend the "Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan". But, they also recommend to up the fan speed (to 40% I think) because by default, it won't cool the console as the stock fan does. To do that, ¿I should flash a new Bios right? the m8 plus using EVtools and selecting 40% fan speed? something like this: My DVD drive is dead, so I can't use Hexen, or the OGXBOX Installer, but I can FTP to the console. Any advice on flashing a windbond chip? Thank you so much for your time.

photo 01 photo 02 photo 03 photo 04 photo 05 provides more power and memory for: - removing slowdowns in emulators - hex patches for 720p output resolution - improved dashboard performance on 720p resolution - improved Linux performance 2TB HDD storage: - new unit installed Xerc2: - makes your Xbox turn ON and OFF from a remote (some TV remotes or Xbox DVD remote) - IR receiver was installed on the left bottom side of the front panel (requires some tweaks to work with your remote) OGX360: - lets you connect wireless Xbox 360 controllers to Xbox Original - installed internally (can be turned ON and OFF by clicking the button on left bottom side of the front panel) - 2 channels soldered and programmed (controller port 1 and 2) - OGX360 USB is located on the back of the console Others: - has 2 options, one for stock Xbox speed, and another one for 1067mhz this way you can play stock Xbox games without troubles and glitches, and also play Emulators in fullspeed - painted blue (automotive paint then clear coat) Listing contains: 1 x Xbox console (with 1ghz CPU, 128mb RAM, 2TB HDD, XERC2 and OGX360) 1 x Wireless Xbox 360 controller 1 x Wireless Xbox 360 receiver for PC 1 x Power Cord (USA or European depending on your location, same for Power Supply, if you are from USA it will be 110v, if from Europe - 220v) 1 x Xbox2HDMI

I haven't really been able to find a ton of info on the communicator, I am curious about it though. It would be nice to have a way to hook up the Xbox to a modern gaming headset, through a combination of Toslink and an AUX jack maybe, ideally without having it plugged into the controller you're using. I'm assuming this is an analog/digital converter and that a simple AUX to USB adapter couldn't replace this thing.

Hello there, I'm hoping to receive some help from you fine experts. First time modding an Xbox and unfortunately I think I made a blunder. Ended up with a service required error 21 screen and discs will not boot. After softmodding with Rocky5's tools I copied over Xblast OS and Cerbios to my C drive. Now the C drive partition was extremely small and wouldn't fit the bios bin so I temporarily removed what looked like some Japanese language files, I suspect this is why I'm receiving the error. Didn't have a mod disc, plan was to just FTP everything over. Was attempting a TSOP for the first time, and I had a Sharp model motherboard so I tried once and got no boot then decided to undo my bridges and just go the modchip route. I should also mention I recapped the CPU and removed the clock capacitor, I don't think this would cause such an error but other people might know better. So after undoing my TSOP bridges I was met with the error screen, whoops. So trying to salvage this, I don't have really any spare parts to try swapping, I suspect the route forward is to buy an IDE interface for my PC to reformat the HDD. Or would it be possible to just install a modchip at this point since I intend to install a large sata drive anyways. I did backup the eeprom and nullify the hdd key as well. Any advice/words of wisdom on how to proceed greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hey guys, my softmodded 1.6 box with a SATA adapter in it is taking a while to boot up and I'm wondering if the drive is on its way out. I'd like to be able to clone the drive to a SATA SSD I have lying around but every drive cloning tutorial I see out there involves hotswapping an IDE drive. How would I accomplish this?

I cant see anything in the file explorer and FTP doesn't work either. I tried to load a Bios from a usb but it file explorer is still empty.

I installed and Open Xenium mod chip and the MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI mod in my old 1.6 Halo SE Xbox, along with a cheap SSD. I initially had everything running, & was able to boot into the EvoX dashboard as well as play games. Once I put all the case screws in & set it up, it booted normally once. After that boot, any other attempt was met with 3 failed boots followed by flashing red and green. I disconnected all the wires, reconnected them, and tried again. Again, 1 normal boot followed by endless FRAG results. Like in Greyleaf's thread, my Open Xenium chip doesn't light up at all with the FRAG boot attempts. I am a soldering novice, having only completed a Boxy Pixel GBA SP Unhinged build and GBC build. I did get some recommendations from a fried for better flux partway through the mod. I accidentally lifted a pad on the HD+ ribbon cable, but I ran a small wire to the trace farther up the cable . My first attempt to solder the cable had some issues. I completely removed & resoldered it. When the system boots, I do have functional video output. If I remove my Open Xenium chip from the pin connector, it boots into an error 16 page (I guess no surprise with a modified dashboard & unlocked drive). I replaced the clock capacitor and reflowed the solder for the Open Xenium. None of this has solved the issue. I also made a Reddit thread when I started troubleshooting. I think I've written the important details here, but it's there if I missed anything important. Summary: 1.6 Xbox Halo SE Delta DPSN-96DP PSU Open Xenium mod chip MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI port SSD upgrade I'm a novice Successfully boots once after reassembly (so far at least) Second boot attempt leads to 3 boot attempts then FRAG No lights on Open Xenium chip during failed boot process Normal lights on XboxHD+ during failed boot Disconnecting Open Xenium mod chip gives error 16 boot screen Looking for any troubleshooting help. Thanks.

So I received this in the post today, to me it looks like a re-design of the Aladding XT. 1mb chip with X2 512k bios, xblas & IND 256k bios each. I've seen several posts and links here before to other forums about re-programming the IC on Aladding XT but no exact step by step guide. And recently someone else did it on discord and I reaced out to them but they never shared how they did it. I got a faulty Aladding XT which was working fine and had the chip on it flashed with Xblast bios for testing while doing ram upgrades until one day it went bad after an attempt and since then it just frags whenever its installed on any board. I know its not the ST chip as I re-programmed it and tried different ones but it just does the same which could only mean the IC gone bad or curruept on it. I've got several devices that could program the xsv files format like NAND-X, Glitch360 Spi & Matrix NAND programmer. anyone used or has idea how any of these can be used to program the IC on Aladdin XT or read the IC on this new Jafar chip?

Good night, I need help about the original Xbox Cromwell, my card is 1.6 and every time I start the Xromwell the screen is full of lines and the control stops working, I've tried changing the resolution to 480i and it still crashes I still don't know what it is. Could this be a BIOS issue?

I mean, played FIFA and it's like... ultra-complex campaign mode... very limited number of national teams (lots of useless clubs)... NO EDITOR (really? that's the funniest part, to build your own team!)... complex commands (some sort of mix between PES and older FIFA titles... switching player makes my mind stun...)... isn't there something really simple like older ISS games or even Virtua Striker series? Asking here instead of usual "top 10 soccer games" pages because those pages only talk about PES and FIFA. Of course, I'm not looking for excellent games... even "decent" are ok to me.

Hi new to all this , managed to softmod and tsop flash my1.0 xbox and i have a IDE from a old xbox. I have been trying to use that but wheni put it in and try boot hexen it wont boot and just goes into the call support screen. I have made sure jumpers are the same but it wont boot into hexen. Could someone maybe point out what i am missing ? I have tried the hexen disc in before and it works fine and in my other xbox and it works fine.

Building a few OX and OGX360s any pointers? Do’s/don’t s? I already have everything minus the j1 conn on the OpenXenium thanks

I’m attempting to fix a friends unmodded 1.0 Xbox with a dead HDD (error 7). I’ve successfully extracted the EEPROM using PiPROM and prepared a new IDE HDD with FATXplorer. However I’m having trouble locking the replacement Seagate ST3320620A IDE HDD which according the Xbox Hard Drive Compatibility Chart supports locking. Initially I used an IDE to USB adapter but XboxHDM23USB Beta 3 and 4 complained about an unknown USB chipset. I then tried a StarTech PATA2SATA3 IDE to SATA adapter which progressed a little further but still fails with “ATA SECURITY SETPASS failed: scsi error aborted command”. The output from XboxHDM23USB Beta 4 shows that the HDD is in the frozen state which I believe prevents unlocking/locking. If this is causing the failure, how can I unfreeze the HDD? Can I use some other utility such as hdparm to lock the HDD?

Trying to rescue a 1.6 box. The unit booted to microsoft dash but dvd rom drive has failed, tried cleaning and pot adjustment, no luck. Next obvious option was installing a modchip.Installed an Aladdin XT plus I had working in another 1.6 as was already flashed. On boot I get the unit cycle on and off until the third attempt where it flashes Green and red really fast. I removed the lpc wiring and modchip, even pinheader, checked for damage, the header is perfect and the xbox boots normally. I have never had an issue like this before. Do I just keep trying to install again or am i missing something. Does the 3 boot attempts mean something? I am unsure to the sequence of events from pressing the power button. Any pointers, help would be appreciated. Just dont want to throw it out. Update, the green / red fragging is not modchip related and happens intermittently when running the box without a modchip. Progressively worse the more boot resets.

Hello everybody. I am just returning to the original xbox ecosystem after quite a long hiatus. I originally joined and frequented Xbox-scene (with the same username I've chosen here) back in 03/04 and eventually fell off somewhere in the early days of the Xbox 360 and sometime before the site disappeared. Recently, I've been seeing a lot of videos on Youtube about people sort of bringing these old systems back into the spotlight, and decided it was time to pull mine out of storage and show them some long overdue love. I started with a v1.2 that I soon TSOP flashed with the Splinter Cell buffer overrun exploit, but soon caught the itch, promptly installed an Xecuter 2.3b lite and began diving in to all of the cool case mods including the clear LED backlit case jewels, a DVD drive window cut and LCD installs that were so popular at the time. After a while I reverted back to plain cases and less flashiness, and fast forward to today, I still have two v1.2s, one in an original case still rocking the X2.3b lite, and another TSOP flashed, in a green Halo style case. I really wish I still had all of my old pictures from those days of the mods I performed. I would love to look over them once again, and re-examine how well or poor of a job I had done as a young tool-inexperienced teenager lmao. So many memories of good days gone by. As for what's next, I've ordered a couple capacitor kits to refit both boards, as I'd like to keep them around another 20 years if possible. I also ordered a set of ram chips to do the 128mb RAM upgrade I always wanted to do back then, but was nowhere near handy enough with soldering, nor had the proper tools to do it. From there, we'll see. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't keen to get back into case modding, bringing with me a couple more decades worth well-needed know-how. Anyway, it's nice to be back. I don't have near as much free time these days, to stay eyes glued to the forums as I did back then, but I hope to stick around and maybe try to relive the magic once more!

I have an Xbox with a 2.6 but it’s missing the bank dip switch board and cable. Does anyone have one for sale?

Hello everyone. I just finished TSOPing an Xbox model 1.1 and decided I wanted to flash Cerbios 2.01 Retail, and after flashing I have a red/green flashing light with no picture. The system is hooked up via composite (yellow, red and white) video cables and now I have no picture. I cannot access FTP, either. I was also sure to FTP over the Cerbios.ini and boot animations to the root of C ahead of flashing. Can anyone help or point me in the right direction? Thank you.

I made some homemade og xbox component cables using og xbox av cables and xbox 360 component cables. At first the homemade cables didn't work as I had read the diagram backward. Eventually it worked with what I assumed was fine colors until I took some comparison photos. Once going into xbmc, I noticed that colors were missing, specifically green and red. I've checked all the connections with a multimeter to make sure they go to the correct output. I also checked with a multimeter to make sure nothing was bridged. Everything appears "fine". https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1p4oX9jJtl0ok6f0cWt4hHe7HL04pc1k8?usp=sharing That's some photos showing a comparison photo of my pound hdmi vs my homemade component cables and the connector itself for the component cables. Any advice on what could be happening would be appreciated. edit: Everything is ntsc, incase that's relevant information

Hello, new member on this forum for a day, Xbox original French Fan for a long time, i'm was looking for help try to resurect one of my xbox, and thanks to this forum i did it, reading a lot of ya Thread help me to win my 3 days battle against that console. thanks to all the members . i've subscribe right after, because you are a source of treasure for this console now it's time to feed the beast . cheers all

A service installed an Aladdin xt modchip into my xbox, works perfectly, the problem I have is that if I press the power button it drops me into the official MS dash, if I hold the power button for 1 sec it takes me to the Slayers custom dash, so I can play anything. I wanted the modchip to be permanently enabled so I dont have to hold every time the power button, so I soldered two joints as shown here: This causes my xbox to turn on as soon as I plug it into the wall, even without pressing the power button, and the xbox can't be turned off. Is it a normal thing? I mean this automatic power on obviously not normal, but that one that I have to hold the power button to enter custom dash, is it normal? Or the service messed up the soldering points with the modchip on the motherboard? I have a 1.6 motherboard I guess.

My family absolutely adores our original xbox. It was modded back in the day with an Xecuter v2.6 chip with is connected to the debug pins, and a few other misc spots. I didn't get to the clock chip in time, and corrosion ate through the tiny edge traces under the board. I've tried repairing it, but it's beyond me... once it warms up, it goes crazy on/off eject/close... I have another 1.0 motherboard and figured I could use that as a replacement, then cross the HDD Key when I got there. So I followed the pinout of the original motherboard and replicated its connections, installed the new motherboard in the original's case and sure enough, Code 6... So I softmodded the new mobo with its original HDD with the Rocky setup and null'd the hard drive. I swapped the HDD back to my original and still no good... I've read that hard-modded xboxes are capable of working better with non-locking HDDs, so I'm hoping there's something I can do to get this new motherboard communicating with my original hard drive. I really would like to keep the content that we have on there. Is there any hope? Thanks in advance!

Xbox original controller modded communicator shell with power button and USB port.... This requires modifications to be done to the console for this to function with the power button. USB port works as is. make sure you Google what this is before you ask me any questions. $20 USA Shipped. Cash App or PayPal goods and services only