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IsbellDL

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  1. Update a year and a half later. Finally got around to removing the LPC board & running wires the old fashioned way. Still get FRAG. I looked at my solder joints with a digital microscope. There's a few I feel like I should reflow, but I doubt it will fix my issues. I think my next step is to try a new modchip. If neither of those solves it, I'm out of ideas. I may add pictures later. Otherwise, I'll update again after my next repair attempts in a decade.
  2. So, troubleshooting is temporarily on hold. I had covid followed by phone issues that took troubleshooting priority. Once the phone is working again, I'll hopefully be able to start working on the Xbox again. I'll try plugging it in and seeing what happens first, but I'm expecting the same errors. From there, I'm planning to desolder the modchip & solder it again with traditional wire routing. I'll update when I can. Hopefully it won't be another month.
  3. Dave, I tried bridging those pads. No change, still FRAG. I also tried putting kapton tape over the LPC corrector board, just in case there was a short with the case (was certain there wasn't, but being thorough). Still FRAG in that situation as well. I really don't want to do it, as I don't have a heat gun (& I'm crap at desoldering), but I think I'm going to have to try removing the LPC corrector board & manually wiring it. It may be a bit before I get the time to do that step, so if anyone has any other suggestions before I do, I'm open to hearing them. If I do, I will also remove Pin 4 completely while I have it disconnected just to be safe. I guess I could also have a defective mod chip. I doubt it, but I can't rule it out. Any idea how I would check that before spending $60 on another for testing?
  4. Denton, thanks for the clarification on the D0/1.6 bridge. I haven't started removing anything yet. Just trying to do some troubleshooting before I move forward with any more serious work. I got my multimeter out, & checked continuity from the pins on my mod chip to the wire solder points shown here: I have good continuity to all the marked points on the board, as well as the D0 point on the board to the mod chip. I do have a pin soldered in the "Warning no pin" spot (pin 4). The guides I followed never mentioned not having a pin or solder in P4. The GitHub manual for the LPC I purchased shows P16 unpopulated (https://github.com/ChimericSystems/OXC_LPCorrectr/blob/master/LPC install v4.pdf). Macho Nacho's video shows all 16 pins populated and soldered. The GitHub manual for the mod chip I purchased doesn't address P4 at all (https://github.com/Ryzee119/OpenXenium/blob/master/INSTALLATION.md). Note, I also have good continuity to all the points listed on this guide. Should I be concerned about P4? Are there any continuity checks I should do that would confirm whether having a pin in P4 caused any issues or not? I read about 50ohms between P4 & P12/GND. Oddly enough, I see no continuity between P4 & P2, despite 0ohms between P2 & P12. Not sure if this is typical or not of course.
  5. Yes, I have the 1.6 bridge soldered on the Open Xenium. I followed Macho Nacho's video guide for my installation. https://youtu.be/UztpHh_xsAg?t=433 He never mentioned the D0 wire/link. I suspect that may be part of my issue. These are the only "instructions" I can find. https://github.com/ChimericSystems/OXC_LPCorrectr/blob/master/LPC install v4.pdf Can anyone clarify what exactly I need to connect for the D0 link?
  6. I tried to reflow the solder before taking the pictures. It didn't help. This is the closest picture I can get with my camera still focusing.
  7. I installed and Open Xenium mod chip and the MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI mod in my old 1.6 Halo SE Xbox, along with a cheap SSD. I initially had everything running, & was able to boot into the EvoX dashboard as well as play games. Once I put all the case screws in & set it up, it booted normally once. After that boot, any other attempt was met with 3 failed boots followed by flashing red and green. I disconnected all the wires, reconnected them, and tried again. Again, 1 normal boot followed by endless FRAG results. Like in Greyleaf's thread, my Open Xenium chip doesn't light up at all with the FRAG boot attempts. I am a soldering novice, having only completed a Boxy Pixel GBA SP Unhinged build and GBC build. I did get some recommendations from a fried for better flux partway through the mod. I accidentally lifted a pad on the HD+ ribbon cable, but I ran a small wire to the trace farther up the cable . My first attempt to solder the cable had some issues. I completely removed & resoldered it. When the system boots, I do have functional video output. If I remove my Open Xenium chip from the pin connector, it boots into an error 16 page (I guess no surprise with a modified dashboard & unlocked drive). I replaced the clock capacitor and reflowed the solder for the Open Xenium. None of this has solved the issue. I also made a Reddit thread when I started troubleshooting. I think I've written the important details here, but it's there if I missed anything important. Summary: 1.6 Xbox Halo SE Delta DPSN-96DP PSU Open Xenium mod chip MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI port SSD upgrade I'm a novice Successfully boots once after reassembly (so far at least) Second boot attempt leads to 3 boot attempts then FRAG No lights on Open Xenium chip during failed boot process Normal lights on XboxHD+ during failed boot Disconnecting Open Xenium mod chip gives error 16 boot screen Looking for any troubleshooting help. Thanks.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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