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  1. Hello, Some help would be really appreciated. I really don't understand why it occurs. But it's the second PAL OG XBOX 1.6 that "dies" after doing the modchip : Open Xenium with LPC Rebuild. I have successfully followed this tutorial (and the solder joints look good): - 1st one working fine during a week after Xenium mod chip LPC Rebuild + Version 2.3.5 Make MHZ then sudden black screen and after Flashing Red and Light - 2nd one working fine after Xenium mod chip LPC Rebuild + Version 2.3.5 Make MHZ: Then died after one hour same symptom Flashing Red and Green. Is there a way to fix this Red and Green issue? Tried different power supplies did not make a change. Seems to be an issue for the motherboard?
  2. Hi everyone! After much hesitation I decided to replace the capacitors in my Xbox 1.6 ... well it didn't go as expected. The 3300uf caps were a pain to desolder for an unknown reason and I lifted 4 pads in total (the positive of C1F2, both pads of C1G10 and the positive of C6G3). So, initially I didn't know that I made such a disaster and the console FRAGged with alterating green/red light after attempting to booth two times with green light and also no video. Troubleshooting I noticed that the dvd drive didn't want to open unless I unplugged it from the IDE cable and that no error was showing even with only the motherboard and psu connected. As adviced by some kind guy on Reddit I checked the joints of the 3300uf caps and I discovered what I did with the pads. The same guy said that in order to repair the traces I had to connect the positives of C1F2 and C1G10 toghether an then to one of the legs of the coil above (L2F1); the negative of C1G10 to ground an finally the positive of C6G3 to the positive of the cap next to it (C6G2). Done all that the Xbox doesn't boot anymore. When pushing the power button there is a soft buzzing noise. So I decided to check the voltage of the 220-240V Delta PSU. I found that the voltage doubled: orange is 10.3V, red 10.3V and yellow 0.5 in stand by and 24.8V when pressing the on button. I also tested the transistor next the clock cap and it says 6.3 V. What can I do? Please help me, I don't want to lose my cherished xbox. Thank you in advance!
  3. Hello everyone, I am reaching out to the community for some help. Long story I had a working HDMI mod with Open xenium on an Xbox. I wanted to try the ram upgrade. I had the Hynix ram stock, tried to replace them with Samsung, ram error and could not get that board to work again. I used a working spare board from my stock Xbox and just brought the open xenium and Makemhz HDMI over. I rebuilt the LPC using Amtech flux and my hakko soldering iron with my Kester ledded solder. I get great joints with these in combination and using an amscope for seeing what I'm doing. A mistake I think I made because it's been awhile, I removed the AV port and did both the LPC rebuild for the open xenium and HDMI board at the same time. Like I said it's been awhile and I may just need to patch the bios right? Problem is I am getting solid green on the chip and HDMI board (btw I used a new flex cable and use precision micro soldering pen to get those joins solid. I tested with a multimeter getting continuity and 33 ohms across each. No bridging or issues I can see under the scope with the ribbon cable, connector or the packages. I rebuilt the lpc again and still persists. One issue I should be honest and mention is the pin I took out for the lpc pins second one on the back left (was on some install guides to remove the pin). The hole pan was burnt off. Completely my mistake had the iron temp set way too high for another project. The trace going from that to a via on the front side of the board had been disconnected. That via goes to the back of the board but then it goes to the lpc where the pin is missing anyways. Basically I don't know if this is the issue. I am not getting a short that I can tell. Do I need to reflash my open xenium since it was working and setup on the old Xbox or is the issue that disconnected trace from the burnt out hole to the via, or is it something else potentially, can I test something with my multimeter? Do I just need to somehow patch the bios. Idk how now with the old av port missing. Audio works when I disconnect the open xenium but no video. I tried my testbench HDMI monitor. I tested my crt with an adapter that adjusts an HDMI signal to be adapted to composite. I tested on my TV upstairs and computer monitor with three good known working HDMI cables. I get no video when xenium is plugged in. I get no frag and can't see anything under the scope or infrared camera for chips going bad like the encoder. I've attached a short video showing the status of the lights. Any help is appreciated, thank you. https://youtu.be/Q00fV6C5C7c
  4. The 2TB disk works fine, including all games, on my v1.0 console. I installed it in a v1.6 console with an Aladdin chip/Evox F&G bios but it does not load all the games. The files are there, confirmed via File Explorer and FlashFXP, but the games will not start. It loads some games but not all. It will go back to the startup menu. Very strange. Any recommendations?
  5. I have a Tuscany PSU that is a 1.6 version and I wanted to know can this be tested with out the xbox? The 5VSTB (reds) on the 20 pin connector is measuring 3.9V. Is this normal if not connected to xbox?
  6. I have this xbox PSU TUSCANY model but with missing components ,and i wanna repair it Can anyone help me with missing components reference. thnx.
  7. Does the XboxHD+ fix the 480p issue on 1.6 xbox's?
  8. Hi, i´m Stef from Germany and recently got my hands on a apperantly "half"- working Classic XBOX for free, MFD 2005. Since almost nothing was included (no AVIF Adapter, Cables of the Controllers were cut and are not available), I removed the AVIF-Socket and tried to get at least a Composite output on Pins 21&23 by bridging Pins 11&12 in order to select Mode 2 (both seen from the underside of the PCB). I have no signals on any Video Output Pin except for Scart Blanking. The Box starts up, LED turns solid green, Powerbutton opens the DVD tray, box turns automatically off after some time of inactivity. Before i made the 11&12-Bridge to select the mode, the Box started to Flash Green/Red after some time, so at least it recognizes the Mode settings and acts accordingly. Likewise it could be a fried BIOS, but i have some electronics experience (small analog Oscilloscope in 10 MHz Range, a 8 Channel Logic Analyzer and Fluke MM is available) and i´d like to check the Signal Flow / In-out of the - i assume - Video Converter Chip straight below of the AVIF-Plug. Is there any pinout description for this specific IC available or any additional documentation regarding signalling on the board available? Caps seem to be ok, Voltages are in their specific range. Fiddling around with heat in order to detect a loose IC connection or pressing on the board on some areas doesnt´t change anything. Thank you very much! Best regards Stef
  9. Modded a 1.6 with an Aladdin chip following a thorough tut on YT Rebuilt the LPC per the tutorial. I programmed with the latest cerbios. Pic attached isn't mine, but i followed this exact pic Powered on = frag Removed the hdd = frag Removed the disc drive = frag Disconnected the chip = no frag. Console booted up to the splash screen followed by errors related to the hdd and disc drive since they were disconnected Other then that Will cerbios run the origins 2tb? When i did a cerbios on a 1.4, i remember having to format the hdd with cerbios in fatxplorer Suggestions? Thanks in advance
  10. Plato

    HD+ on 1.6

    Hey all, I'm not new to the modding scene but querying the HD Plus install on a 1.6. I see that the flex cable is soldered to the resistor array network which is pre Xcalibur. Question is, are these resistors actually used in a HDplus install or can they be removed and flex soldered direct to board? There are 4 array resistors on the HDplus itself so it appears they are utilised rather than the one on the board. Reason I ask is that in one array on my board, one of the fours pins isn't having continuity whilst the rest have continuity at 33ohms. The bottom pad of the board linking to the pins can be soldered to the flex but I'm not sure if I need to run a 33ohm jumper resistor.
  11. Dears My xbox 1.6 is working intermittently. Checking the PSU, it was identified that where it should present 5v, I find approximately 1v. In addition, there is noise in the low voltage sector. In visual analysis, there are no components with deformations. However, this behavior is intermittent and, at the moment I write to you, it is working normally. Any tips on how to fix?
  12. Hey all, Having some issues here. I fired up my Xbox after some time and Xbox wasn't seeing my games on F and G. So I tried to reflash with M8+_16 from both slayer and HeXEn dvd with no luck. Here is the error I get. It was once working so not sure what's going on, I did reflow solder point and there are notl issues getting to a dashboard but my F and G will not show up. Also, I did not have the 1.6 bridges on the Modchip. Thank you for any help!
  13. Intro Since the beginning of time (2004) it was known that the 1.6 was missing the unpopulated footprints for the extra 4 RAM chips and this made the upgrade impossible. I was thinking recently that if all the signals for the extra RAM chips are still available on the board, we can add RAM to the 1.6 by just connecting all the necessary signals. After the tutorial segment I'll go into why this mod works. I'll also post a video on YouTube at some point. Be warned: this is more difficult that a 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade Tutorial Required items Everything mentioned in the 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade tutorial: https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:RAM_Upgrade 4x 90mm long mod-wire. I used enamelled wire from a transformer. ~8 hours spare time Step 1: flash the modified XBlast OS BIOS XBlast OS (as a BIOS) is super helpful in doing this install correctly. It will boot with any number of extra RAM chips and includes a test for the additional RAM. XBlast OS will not show the 128MB test option on a v1.6 Xbox, so I've gone ahead and rebuilt it from source with that check removed. xblast_os_v0.60.bin Alternative Download Link: https://mega.nz/file/eeAwTZKQ#aaFcbACj3htA6cEtKwoiy1L7uK93o4YwUSqkGBEsUz8 If you don't trust my build, this is the line of code that needs removing: At this point, I suggest booting it up and running the test. The test is under Settings > Tools > 128MB RAM test Step 2: Remove the motherboard from the Xbox Step 3: Place the new RAM chip on top of an existing chip You'll want to solder down the corner pins first to get a good mechanical bond and so that you can adjust the alignment. I do this by pushing down pins 30 and 31 and soldering them down to the chip below. Then I check the alignment of the rest of the pins. If it's bad, then the chip can be nudged into position while reflowing the two pins. Then solder the two pins opposite. Step 4: Push down the rest of the pins Except pin 28! That is the chip select pin and it is unique for each RAM chip. Leave this pin floating in the air and don't solder it yet. Pin 30 is marked on the PCB. The pins come in a kind of ‾‾\__ shape. When you push them down, the whole pin will rotate around this end -> ‾‾\__ . I like to also push down the tail ‾‾\__ <- of the pin to get more contact with the chip below. Step 5: Start soldering all the pins Very little extra solder is required. Use lots of flux. I like the tacky flux that usually comes in syringes. I also like the drag-soldering method. If there's any excess solder, you will get shorts between pins and this extra solder can be wicked away. The new pins won't naturally touch the pins below even after pushing them down. Step 6: Check for shorts and missing connections For the first pass, I like to go in with a microscope and nudge each pin (of the new chip) with a cold soldering iron tip. If the pin moves easily, it is not soldered. Also check for shorts at the same time. If you have the patience (and want it to work first try without frying your Xbox), check for shorts and continuity with a multimeter. I skipped this the first time and got bitten! Best to clean the pins and pads with IPA before checking with the multimeter. Step 7: Add the chip-select wire First, figure out which bank you are adding: Then, find the chip-select solder point: Bank 1 CS is left of the label for C4P10 Bank 2 CS is between the labels for C4R12 and C4R13 Bank 3 CS is left and above the label for C4P21 Bank 4 CS is between and above the labels C4R1 and C3R1 For banks 2 and 3, the chip-select wire can go through the hole to the left of the GPU. For bank 2, 90mm may be too short, so check the wire length and cut it as short as possible. I removed the GPU heatsink to access this hole. At this point, it should look something like this: Step 8: Reassemble and test in XBlast For a quick test, I don't bother with adding the fan, GPU heatsink, HDD, or DVD drive. The test in XBlast should look like what I first posted on reddit: If the Xbox reboots twice and FRAGs, check the bios selection (if you have one available). A normal BIOS will not accept between 1 and 3 extra RAM chips. If the Xbox reboots three of four times (and it's faster than a normal FRAG sequence) check for shorts. This happened to me. Step 9: Repeat for the other 3 chips The first one is the hardest. Step 10: Reflash with your favourite BIOS Some 1.6 BIOSs won't support 128MB. The X3 BIOS works just fine and it's the only one I tested so far. xblast_os_v0.60.bin
  14. I've read that this could be a failed memory module but I'd like some more info before I go ahead and start replacing those. I've seen some things that conflict with that info; LPC pin 5's trace, video encoder, etc. random nonsense. The board looks clean, I can't see any corrosion or trace damage, caps looks fine, I scrubbed it with IPA especially around the RAM and had no luck. Maybe someone else that's dealt with this before can share their experience.
  15. Is there a list somewhere of the games that straight up won't run on the 1.6 og xbox models?
  16. So I want to build my ultimate XBOX, I already managed to get my hands on a 14.ghz 128 mb ram xbox (1.4 revision), planning to install stellar. But I also want to put it in a nice case. Luckily I can get my hands on a crystal xbox fairly cheap. But this is a 1.6 revision. I know there are issues putting a 1.6 in a 1.0-1.4 case with grounding, how about the other way around? And is there a fix for the grounding issue? Reason I’m asking is that I would probably put the 1.6 board in the 1.4 case to recoup some of my money. I briefly considered putting in a modchip, but sadly the marked for modded xbox in NL is rather slim. With chip, hdd, sata2ide connector and IDE cable I wouldn’t be able to recoup my money
  17. Hello.. Ive seen a Universal one floating around, but i have a Dead 1.0 PS and a good 1.6PS.. I was wondering if there was a diagram where id be able to splice in the 1.0 connector and remove the 1.6.. thanks in advance
  18. Ok, I'm going out of my mind here, and I hope I can get some help, and a direction. I will try to provide as much info as possible. Xbox Hardware: 1.6 Mod Chip: xecuter 3 ce Bios: (tried multiple with same outcome) Currently one made with EVTool HDD: Western Digital Blue 3TB SATA w/ Startech SATA converter & 80 wire 40 pin IDE cable So here is the problem. I have re-formatted the drive and partitioned it multiple times using different tools off of the "OGXBox Installer 2021 - v1.5.4" Disk. I have use multiple Bios and with success have see the F drive in OGXBox Installer, and XBMC4G as a 2TB usable space. After I transfer my games to the drive, I can only see 256 out of over 800 games. The other games come up as gibberish and can't access them (please see attached photos). Even when I look in the file explorer in XBMC4G I can only see 256 games. If I FTP to the drive, I see all the games. I'm completely out of ideas why I would get this problem multiple times. Please help Thanks in advance!
  19. I haven't used my og Xbox for a while I decided I wanted it set up and to play it again did all of that and it goes to boot up gives me a display but shows the contact service center with error code 12. I looked up the code and it points to the dvd drive. I've opened it cleaned it and still no luck. What are my options would a hard mod and no dvd bios be a better fix than replacing the drive? Or would buying a parts machine be better. Thanks Kyran.
  20. Hi there, I'm back doing another 1.6 mod with an Aladdin XT Plus2. It's a stock 1.6 xbox, so I thought a modchip would be pretty straightforward... Added the pin header and the tutorial I followed said cut the pins marked with an X (hopefully this makes sense) X O O O O O O O X X O O I've rebuilt the LPC and cut the L Frame trace, linked the BT to enable chip at all times, soldering went smoothly, no traces pulled etc. This is my third xbox mod install hi When trying to turn it on, I get the 3 restarts and the green red flashing ring led Any help or checklists to work through would be hugely appreciated, I can add photos tomorrow Cheers, Bryce
  21. What is the best way to upgrade 1.6 Softmodded Xbox Hard drive.
  22. I installed and Open Xenium mod chip and the MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI mod in my old 1.6 Halo SE Xbox, along with a cheap SSD. I initially had everything running, & was able to boot into the EvoX dashboard as well as play games. Once I put all the case screws in & set it up, it booted normally once. After that boot, any other attempt was met with 3 failed boots followed by flashing red and green. I disconnected all the wires, reconnected them, and tried again. Again, 1 normal boot followed by endless FRAG results. Like in Greyleaf's thread, my Open Xenium chip doesn't light up at all with the FRAG boot attempts. I am a soldering novice, having only completed a Boxy Pixel GBA SP Unhinged build and GBC build. I did get some recommendations from a fried for better flux partway through the mod. I accidentally lifted a pad on the HD+ ribbon cable, but I ran a small wire to the trace farther up the cable . My first attempt to solder the cable had some issues. I completely removed & resoldered it. When the system boots, I do have functional video output. If I remove my Open Xenium chip from the pin connector, it boots into an error 16 page (I guess no surprise with a modified dashboard & unlocked drive). I replaced the clock capacitor and reflowed the solder for the Open Xenium. None of this has solved the issue. I also made a Reddit thread when I started troubleshooting. I think I've written the important details here, but it's there if I missed anything important. Summary: 1.6 Xbox Halo SE Delta DPSN-96DP PSU Open Xenium mod chip MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI port SSD upgrade I'm a novice Successfully boots once after reassembly (so far at least) Second boot attempt leads to 3 boot attempts then FRAG No lights on Open Xenium chip during failed boot process Normal lights on XboxHD+ during failed boot Disconnecting Open Xenium mod chip gives error 16 boot screen Looking for any troubleshooting help. Thanks.
  23. I have a 1.6 with a alladin xt +2 non flashable modchip...if I put a 1tb sata in it with starlink sata adapter and use hexen 2022 can I build a hdd in the 1tb?
  24. As the title states I have a 1.6 xbox that after lcp rebuild and mod chip install it reads hexen and works for a few mins then frags...I have capacitor and transistor replacements on the way ..but really curious as to what could be causing it photos will follow. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xgfbhusv4f6h2ff/AAAotnIs2jHOwIA_JFidW-Iba?dl=0
  25. Edited by moderator: Originally posted in similar thread "Xbox 1.1 dead no power". Moved @nerdbombing's post to a new topic thread. I'm having a similar issue with a 1.6 I took the box completely apart to put it into another shell. The box had worked before, no issues, fully softmodded with an upgraded HDD. I wast just trying to put it into a nicer shell as the one it was in had a cracked corner. After putting it into the new shell, nothing turns on. I thought it may have been the front switch or PSU but I replaced both with known good ones. It simply doesn't react to the power buttons, nothing comes on, no lights, and my visual inspection didn't find anything. What's a good place to start diagnosis from here? (Ebay#2)

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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