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thanks to redherring32 we are now able to safely remove the clock cap in a 1.6 rev xbox. research and testing done by redherring32

From finland, with xbox original with bad psu.

Hi, i´m Stef from Germany and recently got my hands on a apperantly "half"- working Classic XBOX for free, MFD 2005. Since almost nothing was included (no AVIF Adapter, Cables of the Controllers were cut and are not available), I removed the AVIF-Socket and tried to get at least a Composite output on Pins 21&23 by bridging Pins 11&12 in order to select Mode 2 (both seen from the underside of the PCB). I have no signals on any Video Output Pin except for Scart Blanking. The Box starts up, LED turns solid green, Powerbutton opens the DVD tray, box turns automatically off after some time of inactivity. Before i made the 11&12-Bridge to select the mode, the Box started to Flash Green/Red after some time, so at least it recognizes the Mode settings and acts accordingly. Likewise it could be a fried BIOS, but i have some electronics experience (small analog Oscilloscope in 10 MHz Range, a 8 Channel Logic Analyzer and Fluke MM is available) and i´d like to check the Signal Flow / In-out of the - i assume - Video Converter Chip straight below of the AVIF-Plug. Is there any pinout description for this specific IC available or any additional documentation regarding signalling on the board available? Caps seem to be ok, Voltages are in their specific range. Fiddling around with heat in order to detect a loose IC connection or pressing on the board on some areas doesnt´t change anything. Thank you very much! Best regards Stef

I have way more than I need, but I do have them in the off chance that a PCB is wanted instead of a manual rebuild. The fug was I thinking!?

This Xbox had one issue of being placed in a different case and shorting. I replaced the faulty 2T transistor and all was working. Voltages were normal on all rails. I then was getting glitchy video on composite cable so I changed the large caps on the board and the video issue went away. It powered on and work fine all day. Even would power cycle multiple times without issue and run stable with any game I threw at it or just stay running for hours. The next day it would not power on at all. I changed the two large output caps on the PSU and reseated the modchip and it booted and ran perfectly so I played Doom3 for a few hours without issue. Shutdown normally. Next day it would not power on again.

Once installed to be able to boot cerbios and retail bios on a 1.6 Do I solder d0 on this lpc rebuild to ground and then the 1.6 point on the OpenXenium chip.

Been a bit bored as of late and wanted to see how low temps I could get. Microsoft in their infinite wisdom gave the CPU farrrr too much voltage: 1.7V! Nuts! Well the CPU itself runs perfectly fine at 1.3V (lowest the voltage reg will go without messing with the feedback loop). 1.0: Remove the 0ohm resistor on R2E4 1.6: Remove the 2 0ohm resistors on R2E7 & R2E3 The only drawback of doing this, is you'll no longer be able to push the CPU frequency over ~950MHz. The temperature screenshot is from my 1.6, I'm aware that the 1.6 does not have entirely accurate monitoring, but you can see a clear difference. Both were taken at a ~73F ambient with fan running at 20%. Enjoy.

Hi I'm currently doing a lpc rebuild on a 1.6 og xbox and I've managed to lift the trace on the trace near R7P4 does anyone know if theres somewhere else on the board I can pick this up? Thanks in advance.

Hi friends! as title says I get error 16 every time I boot with Cerbios , and i get that error with m8+ too when i turn on Xbox with eject tray ,everything were fine before I decided to give 128mb ram upgrade a shot on my 1.6 OGxbox , I have deleted and formatted all the partitions and installed everything from scratch still i am getting that error , I dont know that if it is hardware related or not please help me I am out of patience by trial and error

Greetings all! First time posting anything but have gathered a lot of great tips and fixes from this forum for a few years now. This problem has me stumped though. Here’s the situation: The xbox boots fine to the ms dash. I can access the hdd, copy saves to memory unit (or usb via adapter), browse settings, etc. The eject button on the dvd player just flashes green. There’s no disc in the drive, it doesn’t make any horrible noises, it won’t open, and there’s nothing impeding it from opening. I took it apart, removed a lot of dust et al, cleaned the laser, checked to see that the manual eject via the release button worked, double checked the tray side rails, etc. Everything looked normal. Reassembled and had the same problem listed above. I put in a known good drive and that remedied the non stop green light flashing so I thought I’d figured out the issue. I go to test a disc and the known good drive starts to not eject or close intermittently. Additionally it won’t do anything with the disc. If I put a few known good and un scratched games it the drive just flashes green forever. It never gives a dirty disc type error or anything and again this is a drive I know works (tested it right before I pulled it out and put it for test in the current Xbox). I’m stumped. I thought about changing out power and ide just to see. Swapped out two known good AV cables just for grins. No effect. Nothing on the MB looks bulging and I can’t see and trace rot,etc on the top at least. Any ideas? Thank you, MaGee

I'll do my best to describe the strange issue... I received a dead 1.6 xbox. Wouldn't power on. I changed all the bulging caps that were noticeably damaged. NOT all of them. (Maybe I should) Now the xbox powers on and works flawlessly, HOWEVER, when I power down the console. The console doesn't power back up. But, when I pull the power cord from the back and let it sit for a bit, it can power back on normally. I tried doing a google search and search this site with no luck. Help! Ideas?

Intro Since the beginning of time (2004) it was known that the 1.6 was missing the unpopulated footprints for the extra 4 RAM chips and this made the upgrade impossible. I was thinking recently that if all the signals for the extra RAM chips are still available on the board, we can add RAM to the 1.6 by just connecting all the necessary signals. After the tutorial segment I'll go into why this mod works. I'll also post a video on YouTube at some point. Be warned: this is more difficult that a 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade Tutorial Required items Everything mentioned in the 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade tutorial: https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:RAM_Upgrade 4x 90mm long mod-wire. I used enamelled wire from a transformer. ~8 hours spare time Step 1: flash the modified XBlast OS BIOS XBlast OS (as a BIOS) is super helpful in doing this install correctly. It will boot with any number of extra RAM chips and includes a test for the additional RAM. XBlast OS will not show the 128MB test option on a v1.6 Xbox, so I've gone ahead and rebuilt it from source with that check removed. xblast_os_v0.60.bin Alternative Download Link: https://mega.nz/file/eeAwTZKQ#aaFcbACj3htA6cEtKwoiy1L7uK93o4YwUSqkGBEsUz8 If you don't trust my build, this is the line of code that needs removing: At this point, I suggest booting it up and running the test. The test is under Settings > Tools > 128MB RAM test Step 2: Remove the motherboard from the Xbox Step 3: Place the new RAM chip on top of an existing chip You'll want to solder down the corner pins first to get a good mechanical bond and so that you can adjust the alignment. I do this by pushing down pins 30 and 31 and soldering them down to the chip below. Then I check the alignment of the rest of the pins. If it's bad, then the chip can be nudged into position while reflowing the two pins. Then solder the two pins opposite. Step 4: Push down the rest of the pins Except pin 28! That is the chip select pin and it is unique for each RAM chip. Leave this pin floating in the air and don't solder it yet. Pin 30 is marked on the PCB. The pins come in a kind of ‾‾\__ shape. When you push them down, the whole pin will rotate around this end -> ‾‾\__ . I like to also push down the tail ‾‾\__ <- of the pin to get more contact with the chip below. Step 5: Start soldering all the pins Very little extra solder is required. Use lots of flux. I like the tacky flux that usually comes in syringes. I also like the drag-soldering method. If there's any excess solder, you will get shorts between pins and this extra solder can be wicked away. The new pins won't naturally touch the pins below even after pushing them down. Step 6: Check for shorts and missing connections For the first pass, I like to go in with a microscope and nudge each pin (of the new chip) with a cold soldering iron tip. If the pin moves easily, it is not soldered. Also check for shorts at the same time. If you have the patience (and want it to work first try without frying your Xbox), check for shorts and continuity with a multimeter. I skipped this the first time and got bitten! Best to clean the pins and pads with IPA before checking with the multimeter. Step 7: Add the chip-select wire First, figure out which bank you are adding: Then, find the chip-select solder point: Bank 1 CS is left of the label for C4P10 Bank 2 CS is between the labels for C4R12 and C4R13 Bank 3 CS is left and above the label for C4P21 Bank 4 CS is between and above the labels C4R1 and C3R1 For banks 2 and 3, the chip-select wire can go through the hole to the left of the GPU. For bank 2, 90mm may be too short, so check the wire length and cut it as short as possible. I removed the GPU heatsink to access this hole. At this point, it should look something like this: Step 8: Reassemble and test in XBlast For a quick test, I don't bother with adding the fan, GPU heatsink, HDD, or DVD drive. The test in XBlast should look like what I first posted on reddit: If the Xbox reboots twice and FRAGs, check the bios selection (if you have one available). A normal BIOS will not accept between 1 and 3 extra RAM chips. If the Xbox reboots three of four times (and it's faster than a normal FRAG sequence) check for shorts. This happened to me. Step 9: Repeat for the other 3 chips The first one is the hardest. Step 10: Reflash with your favourite BIOS Some 1.6 BIOSs won't support 128MB. The X3 BIOS works just fine and it's the only one I tested so far. xblast_os_v0.60.bin

Anybody have a 120V PSU out of an Xbox v1.6 they wouldn’t mind parting with? The Delta variant PN is 96DP. Not sure what the other ones are. Thanks!

I haven't used my og Xbox for a while I decided I wanted it set up and to play it again did all of that and it goes to boot up gives me a display but shows the contact service center with error code 12. I looked up the code and it points to the dvd drive. I've opened it cleaned it and still no luck. What are my options would a hard mod and no dvd bios be a better fix than replacing the drive? Or would buying a parts machine be better. Thanks Kyran.

I just picked up a 1.6 Xbox and it does not turn on. Whenever I hit the power button there is 3.3V, 5V and 12V all present for about 1 second then nothing. All standby voltages are good too. Idk whats wrong.

I think this is just a "replace the power supply" issue (DPSN-96DP), but I'd appreciate anyone's insight if they have advice: (Video of issue) https://imgur.com/INZWEUK Summary -- push power, no LED ring lights, X3 mod chip front indicator panel briefly lights up, then turns off. Eject button has same result. Case fan briefly twitches when power/eject is pressed. Continuously holding the power button 'on' keeps the lights on the X3 front panel lit, and the hard drive can be heard spinning up, but then nothing appears and it powers back off after release. Removed the motherboard, examined the traces to see if there was any rot -- looks really, really clean, nothing was visible after several minutes of inspecting. (Shot of a section of board) https://imgur.com/HIuVLGm CPU capacitors look a little sussy and puffed, I should replace, but nothing leaking onto the board. Clock capacitor looks good, too, but I think I should replace that as well. (CPU caps) https://imgur.com/NR7H58m (Clock cap) https://imgur.com/pFDgFPA Probably will get capacitors from Console5, I have enjoyed ordering from them before. Should I just replace the power supply? Is that what this issue looks like? https://imgur.com/FVbfgB6 (Delta power supply) Thanks anyone that feels like replying! This is my daily driver, I'd like to have it back!

Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Redherring32 (of OpenTendo fame) has been putting in some research into bypassing the need for a clock capacitor on the 1.6 revision Xbox; unlike the prior models a 1.6 will not boot without it. By removing R7P3 and R7P6 current limiting resistors which go to the positive leg of the clock cap and then connecting 3v3 standby voltage to that same leg, you can remove it entirely and still have a functioning system.

H all, I attempted to recap a 1.6 . I thought things went alright, however instead it no longer works at all. When I first saw plug it in the LED on the Aladdin lights as usually, but quicks dims out. After unplugging and waiting a bit, and then again trying again, the Aladdin lights again then off again. I’m guessing one or more the caps didn’t flow to trace or something. Is that what I should expect with a missing cal?

I bougth broken og xbox 1.6 for repairs when i try boot xbox he blinks green lights three times and then flashing red/green .i open up and see that xbox was modded with super aladin modchip live when i delsoder wires from modchip xbox boot up with error code 05 so i redo soldering on xbox and i saw that there was not cut trace u7c1 so i cut and xbox begins again fraging here picture of soldering lpc and modchip what do next did i need buy new modchip swap or console is not fixable https://ibb.co/JsmkYR2 https://ibb.co/yFBtCPR https://ibb.co/pdxkJRN

Attempting a OpenXenium 1.6 mod and there appears to be an issue with the LPC board. I had it all completed and OpenXenium screen came up but after about 1-2 minutes (sometimes less) the fan will speed up, orange light flashes and Xbox powers down which appears to be either a overheating issue or there maybe some solder splatter I cannot see. I'm more than likely going to remove the board and wire it instead, or at least this is what I would like to do. Is there a diagram out there that shows where the header pins should be wired? I have looked and have not seen anything. I do have another board but would rather wire it if this is possible. Thank you!

Hello, Some help would be really appreciated. I really don't understand why it occurs. But it's the second PAL OG XBOX 1.6 that "dies" after doing the modchip : Open Xenium with LPC Rebuild. I have successfully followed this tutorial (and the solder joints look good): - 1st one working fine during a week after Xenium mod chip LPC Rebuild + Version 2.3.5 Make MHZ then sudden black screen and after Flashing Red and Light - 2nd one working fine after Xenium mod chip LPC Rebuild + Version 2.3.5 Make MHZ: Then died after one hour same symptom Flashing Red and Green. Is there a way to fix this Red and Green issue? Tried different power supplies did not make a change. Seems to be an issue for the motherboard?

Hi everyone! After much hesitation I decided to replace the capacitors in my Xbox 1.6 ... well it didn't go as expected. The 3300uf caps were a pain to desolder for an unknown reason and I lifted 4 pads in total (the positive of C1F2, both pads of C1G10 and the positive of C6G3). So, initially I didn't know that I made such a disaster and the console FRAGged with alterating green/red light after attempting to booth two times with green light and also no video. Troubleshooting I noticed that the dvd drive didn't want to open unless I unplugged it from the IDE cable and that no error was showing even with only the motherboard and psu connected. As adviced by some kind guy on Reddit I checked the joints of the 3300uf caps and I discovered what I did with the pads. The same guy said that in order to repair the traces I had to connect the positives of C1F2 and C1G10 toghether an then to one of the legs of the coil above (L2F1); the negative of C1G10 to ground an finally the positive of C6G3 to the positive of the cap next to it (C6G2). Done all that the Xbox doesn't boot anymore. When pushing the power button there is a soft buzzing noise. So I decided to check the voltage of the 220-240V Delta PSU. I found that the voltage doubled: orange is 10.3V, red 10.3V and yellow 0.5 in stand by and 24.8V when pressing the on button. I also tested the transistor next the clock cap and it says 6.3 V. What can I do? Please help me, I don't want to lose my cherished xbox. Thank you in advance!

Hello everyone, I am reaching out to the community for some help. Long story I had a working HDMI mod with Open xenium on an Xbox. I wanted to try the ram upgrade. I had the Hynix ram stock, tried to replace them with Samsung, ram error and could not get that board to work again. I used a working spare board from my stock Xbox and just brought the open xenium and Makemhz HDMI over. I rebuilt the LPC using Amtech flux and my hakko soldering iron with my Kester ledded solder. I get great joints with these in combination and using an amscope for seeing what I'm doing. A mistake I think I made because it's been awhile, I removed the AV port and did both the LPC rebuild for the open xenium and HDMI board at the same time. Like I said it's been awhile and I may just need to patch the bios right? Problem is I am getting solid green on the chip and HDMI board (btw I used a new flex cable and use precision micro soldering pen to get those joins solid. I tested with a multimeter getting continuity and 33 ohms across each. No bridging or issues I can see under the scope with the ribbon cable, connector or the packages. I rebuilt the lpc again and still persists. One issue I should be honest and mention is the pin I took out for the lpc pins second one on the back left (was on some install guides to remove the pin). The hole pan was burnt off. Completely my mistake had the iron temp set way too high for another project. The trace going from that to a via on the front side of the board had been disconnected. That via goes to the back of the board but then it goes to the lpc where the pin is missing anyways. Basically I don't know if this is the issue. I am not getting a short that I can tell. Do I need to reflash my open xenium since it was working and setup on the old Xbox or is the issue that disconnected trace from the burnt out hole to the via, or is it something else potentially, can I test something with my multimeter? Do I just need to somehow patch the bios. Idk how now with the old av port missing. Audio works when I disconnect the open xenium but no video. I tried my testbench HDMI monitor. I tested my crt with an adapter that adjusts an HDMI signal to be adapted to composite. I tested on my TV upstairs and computer monitor with three good known working HDMI cables. I get no video when xenium is plugged in. I get no frag and can't see anything under the scope or infrared camera for chips going bad like the encoder. I've attached a short video showing the status of the lights. Any help is appreciated, thank you. https://youtu.be/Q00fV6C5C7c

The 2TB disk works fine, including all games, on my v1.0 console. I installed it in a v1.6 console with an Aladdin chip/Evox F&G bios but it does not load all the games. The files are there, confirmed via File Explorer and FlashFXP, but the games will not start. It loads some games but not all. It will go back to the startup menu. Very strange. Any recommendations?