Lina_Inverse_

You only need one of them but yes in hand. There's also the modchip route but that involves more soldering.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deSa6-yeY1I In this video, someone does the repair.

The transistor part number is MMBT3906LT1. I believe they're available on eBay.

I have a very old (1970s?) 30W soldering iron with a blunt tip and a 60W soldering iron. I've used both for Xboxes and other consoles. I recommend decent pricier solder wick to suck up old solder. Any 60/40 tin/lead solder should do. Those hard drives should be fine. I have a similar WD in my main console. If you are going to use a SATA drive, you need an 80 pin IDE cable of the same length and IDE to SATA adapter.

I was looking for specifications of resistors myself today. I hope I've found what you're looking for. http://xbx.networkboy.net/encyclopedia_components_r.shtml http://xbx.networkboy.net/encyclopedia_components_other.shtml

Hello and welcome! The clock cap will need to be removed (I typically rock back and forth until it comes free) or swapped, but the rest seem fine on visual inspection. I believe that's a 1.0 revision console. Are you thinking of modding your Xbox?

I haven't used them myself but Console5 does seem to have a great reputation.

I can see there's leakage around the clock cap circuitry on top PCB pic. The solder pads have a greenish tint, compare that to the left. Use cotton swabs and isopropyl for cleaning. Soldering isn't too hard, just be gentle with the board and don't gouge the iron on the board. You need decent (Chemtronics is what I use) desoldering braid that soaks the old stuff up if you want to do it easier. no-name stuff from eBay just doesn't work. Check the traces under the board near the edge. With clock cap leakage, they can get corroded and cause powering issues, should that occur, it is solvable.

Hmm... hard to say. Those capacitors are not power related but in any case they need changing. Yours is a 1.6 version which has a transistor, when faulty, causes no power as a symptom. If not that, then check the voltages coming out of the power supply rails. See the video below:

I swap out the capacitors on those adaptors with better electrolytics. The Chongx capacitors on them went bad in my main console.

The LG GDR-8163B drives are rather common to find in many XP/Pentium 4 era PC builds but they do not sit flush with the Xbox case. I have a few Thompson drives which are dead (never had a problem with the others) that I swap into modded consoles as they are no longer needed. Here's the link to the tutorial and attached firmware flasher if you get the GDR-8163B drive https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Vr7YhKbpjCqktAn2B4njVPy8Rlt42tsG/view?usp=sharing 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar

If that happens like it did to mine just a few weeks after cleaning and putting back, it's best to jump the traces on the bottom of the board with wire. There's a couple of forum posts and Youtube tutorials on it. I used one of them to repair mine. You will need a soldering iron if that happens but, best of luck!

Not mine. I did notice a trace which was corroding in my console that he missed in that video, also undid J2 which looked fine. Now it appears the console I did is working good.

After doing the trace repair (I used this video as an example) my Xbox powers on automatically but at least the random shutdown issues appear to be fixed. I can't seem to open the disc drive unless I press both power and the disc drive buttons. I notice the J2 trace seems to be causing it as I removed that one trace wire in troubleshooting. Nothing appears to be shorting. I can provide pictures once I'm done formatting/setting up the HDD I just put in.

I'd say it's just the MOSFET. Check to see it's not sticking and spins freely when you spin it by hand.

Hi everyone! I have a 1.4 with trace issues, upon plugging in the power it starts automatically and when it's off, will occasionally boot at random. I managed to repair one trace as a preventative but not the 3 needed to ensure it's not an issue anymore, I found them too hard to work on https://imgur.com/gallery/ExATwa6 (not my pictures, just as an example!) I did the equivalent of the white wire and blue, is there another place to solder the other green/purple equivalent connections? It would be on the other side of the board I assume.

I've done the hair dryer method for keeping the stickers like new. Works a treat. I didn't do it for my black original (didn't know of the trick back then) but I did for my crystal.

I'd argue the 1.6 due to the fact the clock capacitor doesn't leak. Most of mine are 1.4 which I've had no issues with after sorting out the common issues.

I've used my OG Xbox since I was much younger but the last few years acquired a few more for cheap (no more than $10 each) and now have 4 machines including one crystal.

Reflow the solder of most of the connectors on the PSU. Yes, they're standard Molex.