wikati

i think you are meaning to say "component' not composite. the cheap eBay ones work fine, the odd time I've had interference. (not a big deal for the most part) https://www.ebay.com/b/Microsoft-Xbox-Video-Game-Component-YPbPr-Cables-Adapters/171814/bn_3144376 a stickler will claim they are junk, but they give HD output which is much better than standard AV.

Thanks Forlorn

https://discord.gg/EFURFd dont forget to try the discord for "LIVE SUPPORT"

hello manic!

https://www.amazon.ca/WEP-858D-Soldering-Station-Suitable/dp/B0055B6NGE these are awesome!

yes they are, i kinda figured the hot air soldering stations would be too pricey. but there seem to be (like most other things) accessibly priced units on amazon/ebay. https://www.amazon.ca/THEE-Durable-Display-Soldering-Station/dp/B079M3C228/ref=asc_df_B079M1WSLD/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292953024923&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1808081472911018669&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001157&hvtargid=pla-492971119325&th=1 seems cheap, i wonder how it would work. likely a ton better than the mammoth paint scraper ive used in the past. i just happened to have that cheap air gun form another project. and it did the trick. but for the future this actually looks rather nice. beside the point, pjhcast does nice work. check this im nervous to split the TSOP!! i'd like to try it with a chip as the secondary....

the couple ive done didnt warrant any investment, the whole fun of this console for me has been accessibility (low cost, great for beginners) so it never warranted any sort of investment, but i will say, removal with my heat gun was alot easier. (not sure id be doing any soldering with this heat gun, i think the intended purpose is for scraping paint or something, blows hard with little accuracy)

can be very time consuming for a first time. you need to block off alot of time.

you need to run power out to the unit as well (you can use the adapter but then whats the point), you can do this using the wire intended for L or R audio if you have DIGITAL SPDIF compatibility on your converter seeing as it only needs one set of wires. , working off the 3rd party component cable is not a bad idea, although you get poor shielding with those. Not that its less challenging to do it this way (less case mods....... no case mods) but its just where i ended up after re-hashing a few times on how i'd "complete" this mod. will likely end up with N64 freaks product anyways. hopefully he produces a large enough quantity.

ok, project basically finished, spdif no problem, pin 6 and ground for shield. i ended up using a broken thrid party A/V pack that had the end chewed off by a cat for a donor AV connector i scrapped the internal install idea and instead went external so i can use it on different units.... this is awesome. So, im running the 5V supply off of the DCout pin which is grounded to (any ground pin will do) i got everything soldered to the board and its working awesome. i closed up the old case and although clearly frankestein, it works clean. Side note: you can see in the pic where i installed a dvd board with the tray closed switch taped down (even no-dvd check has its little quirks) recovered the board from dead drve.. it boots smoother wiht the hardware on board. file manager also loads properly with it attached. lots of relevant information was here.

Surreal.ini

185gb more usable space.

well. theres my win for the day. i literally never cared about 3tb. i am shook up by 500gb. now i have a 1tb and its ridiculous. so much stuff.

i remember seeing a youtube video of a seller with a 3TB modded xbox. it was xbmc dash with wide banner icons emulators etc etc.... there was an explination in the video regarding the use of 3tb, arent there a few "extra" 100GB's or so you can get out of it. i literally have no idea where to refrence this info..... oh right, im gonna try google (this is like streaming but im posting in a forum) https://www.google.com/search?q=why+use+3tb+hdd+in+original+xbox&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-ab holy crap

i used this exact schematic lastnight and it worked for me first try. the soldering only takes a light touch. the positive lead is the tip. This schematic is the underside of the xbox main board. The photo i showed alongside the other schematic above is my converter.... they come in several forms these units and you need to asses each one on its own (but i believe the process/idea is very similar for each) I am still in the infancy of this project but i did get video to display rather clearly, this is diy and kinda hackish, but it works. i did notice some grainy stuff going on with the ind-bios screen so im hoping to clean things up a bit. maybe find my own shielding solution etc.... i used wire from an old pc audio port because they were good colors. but i dont think they are shielded (and ended up being rather long) we will see what i can come up with. it wont be pretty but hope to be functional by the end.

yooo, SICK I just found one of those component hdmi converters in value freakin village, cracked it open took 5V off ATX, and wired up with bridged mode pins, i have to route the wires more neatly and install the case port. but video worked first try. I have SPDIF audio only on this one, so i will set that up tomorrow. I take it you just run the SPDIF on pin 6 (center) and GND cool mod, very excited to get it properly installed.

right, sorry KE, i kinda flaked on the communication. i also had a bad hdd that did it for a bit... i think also having the partition scheme wrong has done it to me. where xbox is looking for F only and you have F&G setting in bios.... does that make sense?

2 of my xboxes dont even read my hexen disc. 1 does flawlessly every time. also a possibility is the drive. - i cant really elaborate on which drives work better etc.... but i believe the later ones were better. the thing is the drives that don't read hexen still read games... so they aren't necessarily broke. just stating a possibility.

i'm looking at toying with linux on xbox shortly. my plan was to have one of the cheap aladdin mod chips with BT point on a mini toggle so i could switch between ind-bios and cromwell booting linux from hdd. not sure if the mini toggle idea works, but it makes sense in my mind that the bt point being soldered as "always on" in the standard install instructions could make it switchable between onboard tsop bios and chip bios with an added switch..... for 5-6 dollars in parts its an interesting way to add a boot option. would be a fun experiment. and interesting to see whats possible in linux.

i have the same stutter with no dvd check enabled and no dvd drive installed. it affects nothing else. hdd is fine. it cleans up as soon as i re-install the dvd drive.

Great post to re-discover in a time of need, ripped a pinheader out and destroyed the lpc alongside smashing C7R3 while prying (goodbye to an entire work evening), it wouldn't boot after harvesting the c7r3 from a dead board so i followed baldbouncers photos above. found my broken traces, scraped them and re soldered. after failed boot attempts into orange/red flashing the diagram illuminated the path. what baldbouncer calls pin 4 i decided to test from R7T4, the test via for pin 4 doesn't seem to be correct. either way, THANKS FOR THIS POST AMIGO.

are there any known generic lcd screens that work with these?

Tons of work, love that IR mod with the relay.

ya, how much

if there is i havent found it yet. i only did made change that i spoke about. the interface is a tiny bit different, but you shouldnt have a problem.