Incursion64

This past weekend I decided to do it myself and board is working great. Lot of flux and patience. I’ve purchased these with great success as well. As far as difficulty, I found it to be a 7/10 but most was nerves not having done it before. Here are pix of my first attempted (and successfull board). My advice, don’t be afraid to try if your comfortable with a soldering iron. You can’t go wrong buying one either, prices are very fair. Good luck

To elaborate on part 2 of your question. As OGXbox Admin stated you can copy with a dock, but the drive must be unlocked. I only mention that because there are a lot of people who only softmod. If you are intending on cloning a soft mod disk, either have another disk that you can use to load chimp to re-lock when you are done,. Another method is to use a TSOP xbox with nulled keys and lock the softmod drive there, and move back into the softmodded unit (which would also need nulled keys prior to doing any of this). If you are using Unlocked drives, then just clone away.

Are those USB ports repairable?

pmed you, i'm in need of that x3cp

Use HD Raw Copy 1.10. Format the new drive in the PC and assign it a letter.. This way if you are using two of the same brand/model number you know which is which (my dock makes it look like they are identical). Then select your source drive (without a hard drive letter) and your target (one with letter). 2TB clone will take about 12 hours to finish. You can also buy a dock with offline cloning which can do the job in 5-6 hours on a 2TB but if you have any bad sectors (mainly on the host drive) it will sometimes fail.

I’ve used 30awg kynar because I was using a crappy iron. Now I use a good iron and learned the air bridge technique and can do it in 5 seconds per bridge. the wire method is a safe way to go for beginners and as long as it gets the job done. Glad this guide was reposted, had to bridge the alternate points on a board with missing pads. Using 30 awg kynar it was a breeze. using wire on the alternate points is actually quite easy to do. .

sharp is the only one with a jumper. ST, Hynix, Hyundai are all no jumper and use regular flash option in HeXen. Windbond you choose the windbond/sharp option, then choose bios that doesn’t say sharp only. That will boot up Gentoox and you quickly select advanced setting and navigate to hdd flash and select the bios.bin. Do this quickly and use a Microsoft brand controller only.

That depends on the skin I think. I use confluence and set everything to wide icon, so its loads up default.tbn. My problem is just the quality of the picture,. I know it will blur a little on big TV but the difference I'm seeing on the computer when zooming in compared to the poor resolution on the xbox is what's troubling me.

I've been making custom icons in illustrator and photoshop and they look great on the PC. On the xbox however they are blurry as hell on some of them. I've been exporting the files as a PNG, then resizing to 758 X 140, Should I be exporting as JPEG, then rename on the xbox to default.tbn?

Looks like a modified Ultimate Chrome skin

I would check with N64 Freak on the bios in case he made any modifications to allow you to run the upgraded CPU. I ordered one as well and just received yesterday (have to put it in the case still so can't confirm anything). I thought he mentioned IND-BIOS 5004 (which i assume would be a beta bios as HeXen and knowledge base always refers to 5003).

probably not, I just know that all of my games have videos (99.9% in case a couple aren't there), I don't have every system and every game for CoinOps, just have everything I could get my hands on at one time or another. I have all of the major consoles though, so if the OP wanted a custom build with full sets on those systems I'd be happy to compile that if he or someone else needed it.

How so? All of my games have video previews, just have to copy the video files over to the new build. CoinOps 8 has the videos broken down into folders, so sorting out what isn't needed isn't an issue, and even if some arcade videos or unwanted consoles slipped through, there is no game pointing to them.

It's not that bad if you have a source to pool the games from. I build my CoinOps PC side. It's really just a matter of copying the right folders over from an already built version (romsconsoles etc). So if he said, Hey I want all nintendo and sega stuff, it's pretty easy to do.

If you are referring to full one as being CoinOps Massive, that's an option. You would probably want to copy standalone R6 over it, delete arcade roms and videos, and re-scan for good measure. However, CoinOps Massive does not have full game sets for consoles (with arcade has 4191 games), which is what I presume the OP is looking for. I think my CoinOps 8 has about 14,500 games for example (I'm sure some people have even more) with complete sets on the major consoles.

Very nice guide hoping to get some use out of it. On the subject of powder supplies, does anyone have any suggestions on some small form factor PSU's that can be used on the XBOX (obviously I'd have to wire to the correct pins etc). I'm working on some creative mods and space is coming at a premium.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but basically isn't what you are asking simply taking CoinOps 8 Standalone and adding in just the console emulators, roms and videos? If this is what you want, I can build that for you pretty easy. Just let me know the systems you want included.. Premium would look a lot nicer but it's more work to put together.

I did a quick run through on Dave C's thread of one of my methods. Too me 35 minutes total to clear it out, and I was lolly gagging it,

compressed air and simple green everywhere. Shines up the case very nicely and doesn't streak

Started at 8:40, finished at 9:13 Step 1 - Remove RF shielding from underside of Case Top. Use a heat gun or hair dryer on the underside where the jewel sits above. Don't heat too long and move the air around, too much heat can warp or burn through the plastic. Once you have sufficiently warmed the bottom, the foam tape under the jewel will have softened. Use a prying tool or a thin flat head to pry up. Don't force it too much, you don't want to damage the edge of the jewel. Once you get the flat head under the jewel a little ways, lift the handle of the screwdriver upward so you are lifting the jewel with the shaft of the screw driver instead of the tip. Lift slowly, the tape is stretchy and will work itself free. The jewel can be fragile, you don't want to fracture or crack it. Step 2 - Use thermal paste remover to soften tape if needed.. On that hard rubber tape that some units have I had to re-apply and scrape off, I actually used the flat heat a little for that (carefully). The soft stuff you can just wipe with a rag. Just like when removing thermal paste the more moist the substrate, the more it penetrates what you are removing. I actually used that to completely get rid of all the green also by wiping over it.. BE CAREFUL IF USING - If you let the remover sit too long it can damage the plastic. When I did the jewel above, i had no issues, i did another yesterday and completely screwed it up. ALTERNATIVE - Sand it down, start with a little grit like 320 or so, if you can get the tape off by warming, peeling, goo gone or whatever, you can probably go right to 600 grit (can use an orbital here). Then do the wet sanding at 1000 grit, then 3000 grit. Step 3 - using Meguiars Headlight kit, I wet sanded using the 1000 grit (have used orbital also, but easy enough by hand). I did both sides of jewel, continuously adding water, then used the 3000 grit pad on both sides jewel. step 4, Use about a nickels worth of plastX cleanser and polish (to both sides) and buff with the drill wheel. Dry with microfiber cloth and ready for paint or leave as is if you want a clear jewel. The kit you can get on Amazon. It comes with the buffing wheel, 2 sanding pads, an the plastX solution.

You can use an orbital sander, I usually use 1000 grit pads (add a little water to the pad first), then sand by hand using one of those car headlight kits. Wet sand using the two pads that come with it and buff it with the attachment that hooks up to a hand drill. Clear looks awesome and perfect for painting. I usually get the scuffs off the front also with that kit.

So does the dishwasher Goo gone is great for label residue and general gunk. I also find simple green to be effective on the old lady

big F is correct - just flip the standard 24" cables around and it will work great. I have used the longer ones, some worked, some didn't., After having inconsistant results I went to 24" and haven't gone back.

Great info from poster above - I do 2TB drives all the time and have some quick notes on the setup. What's needed - 2TB drive, 80 wire 40 pin IDE adapter, Sata/Ide adapter This adapter will workhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Female-SATA-SSD-HDD-Hard-Drive-To-IDE-3-5-40-Pin-Male-Converter-Adapter-7-15P-/172719304915?epid=2264787562&hash=item2836df70d3:g:UWUAAOSwal5YEEAL Step 1: Typical soft mod - or go right to mod chip Step 2: Softmod - Replace IDE cable with new one, put adapter on new drive and set the jumper on the adapter to slave. I usually take a game case and anti static hard drive sleeve and lay on top of the dvd drive, placing HDD on top of that. so the back of the adapter isn't too far from the IDE connection of the DVD drive. Use latest chimp from Rocky5 Softmod tool, hot swap IDE connector to hard drive and clone master to slave. Step 2 - TSOP - Using original hard drive still, bridge your points and flash new BIOS using HeXen or other preferred utility - make sure you flash a Bios that has LBA48 support. Examples are: IND-BIOS 5003, Evox M8 (F&G) X2.5035. Step 3 - TSOP/Softmod - Install drive (for TSOP), set jumper to master. TSOP you will just start new drive setup with HeXen, and install applications from CD on E partition (this will put XBparitionner.. Softmod tool may handle your partition/cluster sizes correctly, I do mostly TSOP but install XBpartitioner in your apps folder on E to double check. FORMATTING THE DRIVES - here is the trick/easy way to do it. Do this from UnleashX dashboard not from HeXen CD. load it up XBpartitioner v1.3, and hit the A button until you see the 927GB as shown above in the picture. from the poster before me. Now, before formatting highlight partition 6 and use the right d-pad to change that value to the next increment down (926GB). Repeat this step for Partition 7. Now format. After format is complete, exit/restart. You will see like 486GB on F and nothing in G. Load Xbpartitioner again, and set both values to 927 (max) and re-format. When you restart you will have 949,000 MB on each partition and they will be at 64K.

I use the cheapy ones with the jumpers (amazon or ebay) and have used Startech also. I have not seen a noticeable difference in boot times. Your boot times in general seem slow. Are you running custom icons and have a lot of Xbox Backups on the drive? I ran into this issue where it was 30-40 seconds and I believe it was Rocky5 that mentioned that UnleashX caches all the images. I had to add a delayload in my config file for everything and it cut my boot times quite a bit.. Also I noticed that that more Xbox games, the slower it booted. I typically run a 2TB setup. The the F has all of my emulators and about 150-200 xbox games. The G folder has all Xbox games. I remember when I had transferred half the content (filling up just F), the Xbox booted a lot faster than when I had both folders full. The delay load worked great and cut those times down quite a bit. I have since gone to XBMC as my dashboard of choice, it boots so much faster than UnleashX.