Incursion64

A much cleaner solution to your booting into different dashboards is just to use 1 bios. Then, you dashloader, which is off of the Rocky5github. https://github.com/Rocky5/Xbox-Softmodding-Tool/tree/master/Extras Disc/Hardmod/dashloader. You use this evoxdash.xbe file on C, and you put that dashloader folder on C along side it. You can either edit those configs or you can use the downloader to get the dashloader app. this allows you to map any XBE file to a controller button. want emustation? Hit A, want unleashX, press B, and you assign a default by using the Custom one. It's much easier than flip flopping bios'.

If his Lattice chip was not programmed he wouldn't be able have multiple banks working, and if he chooses either the m8 or the x2 bios it's launching. The issue is the same/similar to my issue. For some reason, The power button press even when you have it selected for 512k or 256k is booting the OS which is supposed to be in bank 2 as it's labeled OS bank. As a work around you can force either the 256 or the 512k by using a toggle switch (on/off/on). BT and ground will force 1 bios, and H0 and Ground will force boot the other. I'm trying to figure out this issue, it's a nagging one to have to use Eject to get the primary bios going and going into OS every boot is equally annoying.

Hello, hoping someone can help here. I've made several xblast aladdin chips, as well as the Jafar chips, and quickboot will never boot the designated bios i have selected in Xblast Settings. No matter what i do, it always boots to the Xblast OS. For example: i have quickboot set to yes, i have X25035 as my 512k Bank(0), IND5003 as bank(1), and Cromwell as bank (2) aka Xblast. If i assign either the 256k or the 512k bios to launch pressing the Eject button, it will work as it's supposed to.

im sorry guys, i didn't see notifications on the post. I handed all the homebrew art over to Rocky5, it should all be packed into the downloader. My google drive links got blocked by facebook because I think someone reported me, and that's where i do pretty much all my posting/sharing so i had to remove them. Being that it's already being hosted im not re-uploading them to google drive. At some point ill put it on mega but the downloader seems to be working great.

I'll send you some later when i get home.

Does anyone know precisely where the lead connects too? would like to test it out. If it all works i can probably get these parts made up.

I have this one with the power splitter. It has a single lead. Have yet to hook it up (and where) to connect it.

Thanks - it's a work in progress. What John has done to this dashboard is incredible work, and way beyond my pay grade. Artwork stuff i can handle :) so just pitching in. what people don't realize is that it isn't that hard to make these. It's a bit time consuming but all the tools are available. My hope is someone will want to pitch in and help do more. These took me a long time, especially the covers that were made from scratch. The more obsure homebrew stuff is even more challenging. Anyway - enjoy!

Here is a work in progress overhaul to home-brew and other unique ports such as ram upgrade games, There is also some collections in the CoinOps realm. These art packs are designed for xbmc4gamers but we compatible with other dashboards. Here is a link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1p5LSdf5RIRJaaFiJaOhCBOlRHRx6CgjT

you going to upload yours?

It really depends on whether or not you will use any of the custom bios options. All of them will play games just fine and work. Most people will just flash the TSOP on any board 1.0-1.4 unless they are using LCD support as the poster above me just mentioned. I usually run with X2 bios for all of my 1.0 and 1.1 boards, and IND 5004 for 1.2-1.4. I do avoid using 1.6 for builds, but Aladdin mod chip or soft-mod are fine options. On a 1.0/1.1 you have a 1mb tsop on board so you can even split that with a switch if you would like and run more than 1 bios off the same box, no modchip required. The "best" chip if that most people would agree on are X3, SmartX, followed by Xenium in that order for custom options.

Cheapest Route - https://www.cablewholesale.com/products/ide-scsi/ide-cables/product-21at-10118-100.php Cheap and Easy Route - https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Cable-Device-Conductor-inch/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=24+inch+ide+cable&qid=1556828217&s=gateway&sr=8-2 Note: the 24" are slated to be in stock May 16th. Cable wholesale sometimes has them on their site direct for less money. What's nice about the 24" cable is you just use the blue end on the hard drive, and you have plenty of space to manage the motherboard and dvd connector. Other options of course were listed above but i've used over 100 of these with no issues.

Ewok0815, for Chihiro what pack are you using? https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jtKjtvfOOZi50BL5MD09IQUz9R5lxOqc That's my pack, works and tested with 128mb of ram. The XBE files in the Sega Chihiro folder are just shortcuts to the xbe's in the root folders. So you really just need to patch the games located in the root of F or G (wherever you place them).

I think the best start is to look at some of the soft mod tutorials. there are various videos on Youtube, i recommend the ones by JCRocky5. Softmod or hardmod is really a preference thing, both will get the job done. I personally like TSOP mods, but when i started out I did the softmod, and got familiar with setting up by back games etc. perfoming the actual tsop mod is quite easy if you are somewhat comfortable with a soldering iron. Seems like you have a lot on your mind on what you want to do with this setup, but start small and tackle one thing at a time. Before you know it you'll be teaching other people how to do this. In order to get further help, learn the ropes a bit, watch some vidoes. This way when you have specific questions, people can help you. Good luck.

easy way is to drop a resources folder in the root of E, F, and G and fanart will pop up. of course if you use the same image for all 3 as the fanart.jpg, all the main category icons will share the same image. What Rocky5 was alluding to above regarding folder specific art is even better. I've never set it up that way but now im going to figure it out (if it has it). really nice skin isn't it? i much prefer it over origins or generic xbmc.

Putting a pack together for Ninja?

I usually get in about 2-3 weeks, right now is Chinese New Year so good luck lol.

Not sure if this is still for sale, but sent you an offer via PM

Not familiar with it, but went on the amazon UK site and saw this one. Might be worth a try. https://www.amazon.co.uk/AAB-Cooling-Super-Silent-anti-vibration/dp/B01HTNV1GW/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516293717&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=Titan+70mm+Fan

I use Articlean Thermal paste remover, usually gets the crust off the sides with a little work. Other guys use various thinners which also work. On some models, i've come across a plastic like paste where regular remover doesn't cut it, I use a very small amount of goof off, and it comes right up. Honestly though, if you have a little paste on the side and it's not on the top flat area,.it should be fine. You can use a 80 mm, you just have to do a little more dremel work to get it to fit. Remove that clock capacitor, even if it looks like it hasn't leaked, because at some point it will. The only time you don't pull one is if it's a gold colored cap, I recommend you watch a youtube video or 2 just to learn a little more detail on these points that I'm mentioning. 3.5" hard drive is what is typically used. The Xbox uses and IDE interface. You can use a SATA hard drive, but you will need to purchase a PATA/SATA adapter, and a new 80 conductor (40 pin) IDE cable. Most people by 24" long on amazon or ebay. I like the Hitachi Ultrastar personally. They are enterprise/server class drives and are very durable. If you decide to use western digital or seagate, i'd stay away from the green drives

I'm pretty sure X2 5035 is (that's the 512k bios) you could check the bios config file to be certain.

Your other questions - fan upgrade is nice, but with new paste it isn't necessary. A lot of guys have guides on how they squeeze 80mm fans in. I prefer a 70 mm nexus fan (amazon). It's a silent fan that you have to just cut two corners off a little (so hdd tray fits nicely). While it doesn't move air like a 80mm, i can run at 75%-100% and barely hear it. The nice thing is that it snaps into the bottom clips in the case, you just need some small cable ties to hold down the top. You will also want to pull off your clock capacitor if you haven't already. That should be an easy one to google.

Thanks Randy - I leaned on the community pretty hard (still do with new things) when i got started, gotta give back . So much outdated info as these consoles have been modded over many years., it's good to have bullet point list that people can work from and do some research as they go.

IND BIOS 5004 and X2 5035 can run without the dvd tray. IND Bios will hang when it's not plugged in.

welcome - seems like you have done some research. I would start start with downloading the latest softmod tool from JCRocky5. You will need to softmod your console before performing the TSOP modification. Also, after you softmod, your board version number will pop up on the main dash as sort of a confirmation to what info you have. Sounds like you are 1..2-.14 so the flashing options are the same. You will also want to download HeXen 2017. You will use that to flash to your desired bios. step 1 - softmod step 2 - solder your bridges step 3 - run HeXen - for this particular xbox you will use non winbond option, then choose a 256k bios. Most people recommend IND-BIOS 5003 or 5004. (F & G). step 4 - Install new hard drive with HeXen in Dvd tray - it will automatically take you through the hdd setup. step 5 - once complete, install applications (you will need Xbpartitioner) step 6 - boot into generic unleashX without HeXen in tray. Run xbparitioner. - see note below note: Xbpartitioner can be a little buggy. Here is what i recommend for a either a smaller drive upgrade or a large one up to 2 tb. Leave the first grouping of rows alone, you will be focused on the second set of rows (1st line or 1st or second line if you are doing a G folder (anything over 1TB will require a G). hit A i believe to set those 1 or 2 rows to their max amount. Example 2 TB will show 927GB in both rows. Before selecting format, lower that number in both rows by one tick using the dpad (926 for ex.), Format by pressing start, then Y. Reboot Xbox, Run Xbpartitioner again, and now set both of those values (or 1 if using a smaller drive) to their max amount, hit start, then Y to format. Now when you reboot your new HDD should be set correctly to the correct cluster size and not show any ER (error as you may see in XBP until you start changing the values). Then it's up to you which dashboard you want to load up. Happy modding