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@KaosEngineer Thankyou for posting this obscure info about the ADM1032 chips relation to the temp sensors and fan high RPM/flashing orange light. My Xbox decided to only show the logo then nothing and shutoff, then eventually no logo even. Replaced every capacitor, and swapped the PSU, still no life. Then I found this post. Replaced the ADM1032 from a spares motherboard and everything is running solid again. Thanks again, you saved another console

Ich schmeiss Morgen mal meine XBox mit dem SmartXX ran und schau mal nach. Soweit ich weis habe ich die SmartXX FW da auch noch nicht aktualisiert aber Biose hab ich geflasht mit dem Tool von Warlock (Das erste untouched funktionierte bei mir auch nicht so wirklich). Ich geb Morgen abend bescheid.

Eaton mentioned on Reddit that support was coming in the new week or so, check r/originalxbox.

OOOOOH SHIT!

@Bowlsnapperthat is an understatement lol. He's like the xboxlopedia. Mad Props. This is great to understand, so i had to dig more. Found this from old Xbox-Scene knowledge: GREEN/RED Flashing: Probably a bad chip or bad image. SOLID GREEN/No EJECT/No AUDIO/No VIDEO: Probably a bad solder point. Check all your points again. It could also be a heat problem , make sure your fan is connected and don't put your xbox near heat sources. You can also try to open the top of the xbox and check if it goes better. SOLID GREEN/No AUDIO/No VIDEO: This is probably a problems with your audio settings. Try to boot your xbox with a standard a/v pack instead of a HD pack. ORANGE/GREEN Flashing: No AUDIO/VIDEO (A/V) pack. This may also be down to a solder splash on the board or a damaged track. ORANGE Flashing: This may also be down to a solder splash on the board or a damaged track. May also be due overheating. GREEN for half a sec then RED Flashing: Bad/Corrupted or Empty Eeprom. SOLID RED: System overheated , hardware failure , ... FLASHING RED: Dead, broken or empty eeprom. and: This would be good images/knowledge to save on the site. The solution for the Orange Circle error and then turning off the console. After a lot of research, changing capacitors, power supply, forced cooling on the motherboard, I found the problem, it was the temperature controller, a chip that has a sensor connected to the CPU and internally has another one, which checks the temperature of the motherboard. The chip in question is located in the vicinity of the MCPX marked on the motherboard as the U6F1 They are extremely cheap, but from China it takes at least a month to arrive, it occurred to me that, being a chip for general use, it could be found in other devices, and yes, it is in many electronic devices, even in notebook motherboards, the which checking some broken ones, I found that they all had one, from different manufacturers but the pinout is the same. And finished, several ignition cycles, stress control, more than 9 hours of operation, without problems.

The guy has some seriously impressive cumulative knowledge.

From reading a lot of information about the Xbox shortly after they were released/modded till present day and repairing them. It's getting harder each day to find much info since many of the old Xbox scene web sites no longer exist. Xbox Temperature Sensor The ADM1032 chip is an I2C bus connected dual-temperature sensor. One sensor is used to detect the ambient air temp around the chip and one to process the CPU thermal diode signal. When an overheating condition is detected by the PIC processor (System Management Controller - SMC), it flashes the eject ring orange and speeds up the fan(s) to cool things down. After a short time if that has no effect, the SMC shuts off the console to prevent damage. The ADM1032 chip can die and the SMC sees that as an overheating condition. Sometimes the clock cap's leaked electrolyte if it reached this chip can cause a false reading. If the electrolyte reached the temp sensor, cleaning the electrolyte from the printed circuit board can sometimes clear the problem. However, if the chip is dead, it has to be replaced.