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Added art for the Big Ass Emulator Discs 1-3b. I saw a download for these recently over on backups and thought id grab them for nostalgic purposes. Then needed some art I'm contemplating creating a more risque alternate artwork set for these as they are titled "big ass", I know some of you guys like that sort of artwork Maybe using something like this as a base....

another possibility is there's a failing wire on the power/eject board, this happens get a multimeter, pull the front panel board out and test the wires, wiggle them around a bit while you do

Other than using contact cleaner on the PCB button itself, Just try to repair the power button trace. Thankfully that's the only one. You HAVE removed the clock cap, right?

Thanks for the knowledge. I have this bookmarked as I have a v1.3 that sometimes powers on and sometimes not. I have no experience soldering so wish me luck. Given that I have a v1.3 and the issue is a sometimes unresponsive front panel power button, does anyone have suggestions on where I should be looking in particular? Thanks

It’s always 40 pin, but 80 wire, as opposed to 40 pins with 40 wires.

Lol, no. It's a small bunch. Some in the UK.

It's a one guy team!?

The Insignia Discord server is your best bet for reaching them. https://discord.com/invite/CWkdVdc

Pretty much any IDE cable will have the two ports you are looking for, so I wouldn't worry about that part. 24 inches is ideal, since you wont have a long ide ribbon snaking around and requiring more folds than you really should have. However, if you don't get one of the ribbons designed with Xbox in mind (like those two listings), you will need a ribbon a bit longer since you will have to double back behind the DVD drive. Those listings are examples of the special type of orientation needed for a perfect fit on the console, since the IDE design there is both backwards and mirrored. Just something to keep in mind. Yes, there is a "Master" and "Slave" position on an IDE cable. These are designated on the ribbon in standard spots, if the specific cable supports it. However, normal IDE cables will have the "Motherboard", "Slave" and "Master" positions in the opposite order, so Cable Select will not work. Your HDD SATA adapter or physical IDE drive will need to be set to "Master" manually. The DVD drive is internally set to "Slave". This is reinforced here, by the master himself.

Any of the Insignia devs hanging around here? Additionally do they have any dev journals / blogs, twitter accounts, etc. worth following? I am fascinated with their efforts. Incredible work.

Okay, so in my search for a suitable replacement I am requiring the following criteria... - 24" - 40 or 80 pin How do I ensure I'm getting search results that have 2 ribbon "ports?" (They are referred to as master and slave, right?) Anything else I'm missing? Thanks

I have a spare skeleton faceplate

Not sure. Guy I got this from explained he got it like this. Still looks cool though.

All that may be true but I've never had any issues with the standard 80 wire cables myself. Never fiddled with any jumpers on my HDD's either.........

Where's the rest of the Skeleton box?

For sale is the following... - Original Xbox with Transparent Smoke Grey top panel (top panel only), generic black base - Xecuter 3 modchip installed - 200GB HDD - 2x Microsoft OEM S-Type controller - Microsoft OEM A/C and A/V cables - The Elder Scrolls III - Morrowind w/ manual - Halo 2 official strategy guide - Halo 2 Preview copy of Official Xbox Magazine - Asking $350 CDN / $255 USD. Shipping available from Vancouver Island, BC in Western Canada. Payment through PayPal G&S or Interac e-Transfer. Check my feedback on eBay store "vanislandtech." Tags: original Xbox, og Xbox, Xecuter 3, modchip, mod-chip, mod, chip, modded, chipped, duke, S-Type, Microsoft, halo, elder scrolls

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264826912888 https://ogxstore.com/product/custom-80-conductor-ide-cable/ What I would do is make sure (as these two links ensure) that you have the proper connector orientation. Standard 80-wire IDE cables have connectors facing in the opposite direction, with the placement of those connectors not only facing the wrong direction, but being placed on the wrong ends. This means that Cable Select does not work properly and the priority jumper on the HDD must be used to manually set device priority. The cables I have provided the links to have their connectors oriented properly, and are the correct length. Using a standard cable will require doubling back behind the optical drive, multiple folds and messy origami. I've done it plenty of times, but no more. The proper cables are a bit expensive, but worth the tidiness and lack of a hassle. However, if you are unable to find one of the Xbox direct replacements in Canada, a regular 80-wire IDE cable will work. You just need to do some creative folding here... : Marty is correct. Using one will not just magically make your speeds increase. You will need to install something that can make use of it, as well as a bios configured to enable it. https://techreport.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5523 A 40 wire cable is good for UDMA-2, which is stock speeds for this console. If you would like to use UDMA-4,5, or even 6, you will need an 80 wire. This is because faster speeds that UDMA-2 cause crosstalk and interference to occur and this is cancelled out by having individual grounds for each positive lead. What are your goals for this HDD upgrade? Do you really plan on using a stock HDD?

You may as well upgrade to an 80 wire, as you will need to replace the aging IDE HDD with a SATA one at some point anyway... Getting one that is an exact replacement for the stock one is difficult, there were a few people making them and selling on Etsy/eBay a while back but I don't know if that is still the case. The other option is to "borrow" one from another broken Xbox. I have used the generic 80 wire yellow ones that are on Amazon/eBay many times before, you will need to do some clever folding to make it fit correctly tho.

Any 40 pin(not 80pin) cable will work. The other cables you're referring to is a 40 pin, 80 wire cable. The extra 40 wires are to accommodate speeds up to ATA 133 I believe. You only need the 80 wire cables if you're converting to a SATA HDD using a SATA to IDE adapter. It does allow faster transfer speeds, but won't show any level of performance gains in game.

Can someone recommend where I can buy a replacement IDE ribbon that... - is the right length - has connectors at appropriate spots for both optical drive and HDD I am located in British Columbia, Canada on the far west coast. And lastly, if I'm using a stock HDD will it work with a 80pin ribbon instead of a stock 40pin? Lastly, will I get faster speeds with the 80pin? Thanks

Post a few pictures of the pin header soldering on the bottom side of the motherboard.

I was given Two OG XBOX PSUs but both have 2 missing components One PSU is Delta and belongs to OG Xbox 1.4 revision One PSU is Delta and belongs to OG Xbox 1.6 revision Fuse and varistor are missing in the PSUs, parts are not in the board, someone removed them. i think the owners connected them to 220v (here we have 220v , not 110v in the wall plug) and that caused the fuse to blow up, and varistor to blow up. Just like in the Wii power brick when connected to 220v So i spent some hours trying to figure out what the original components were for those PSUs, searching on forums and i was not able to find the complete info This is what i found online for each OG xbox model, in terms of original components it came with: OG Xbox 1.4 Power supply Varistor= Unknown? I was not able to find information online about this varistor. Fuse: 250v 3.15A (8.35x7.7mm) - OG Xbox 1.6 Power supply varistor: TVR 20241X Fuse : 250v 4A 20mm long - Maybe someone here on reddit knows more about these missing components so Here are my questions for OG Xbox 1.6 revision: The FUSE for OG xbox 1.6 revision, the PCB has printed "250v 4 Amps", and By looking at pictures on ebay i see they originally used a normal Glass Fuse 20mm long, but my question is: DOES IT NEED TO BE A FAST BLOW FUSE? OR SLOW BLOW FUSE? The VARISTOR for OG xbox 1.6 revision is TVR 20241X, but here that part is hard to find, can i use any of these as replacement? S20K150 or 20N241K or 20D241K ? (datasheets images are below) Here are my questions for OG Xbox 1.4 revision: The FUSE for the OG xbox 1.4 revision, the PCB has printed "250v 3.15 Amps", and by looking at pictures on ebay i see they originally used a circle encapsulated in plastic fuse, but again my question is: DOES IT NEED TO BE A FAST BLOW FUSE? OR SLOW BLOW FUSE? The VARISTOR for OG xbox 1.4 revision is UNKNOWN, I was not able to find online what type of varistor they used in that PSU, can i use the same varistor as in the 1.6 revision? here are images of the 1.4 fuse, along with what i was able to find available where i live for the 1.6 revision varistor, I hope someone can help me find the correct replacements

RAM upgrade, nah. CMR HDD is the way to go. Brand, almost all brands are OK for me. WD is crap with their misleading branding. Seagate has simple guide for CMR and SMR drives. 3TB you can fit all library of xbox games + emulators with plenty of space left. But you can snatch a bigger drive with virtually the same price. https://www.seagate.com/gb/en/products/cmr-smr-list/ Don't forget to re-lube GPU fan, it's serviceable.

Did you happen to take pics of before and after? I knew some of that stuff would be okay!