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1.6b xbox open xenium install


mcpoodles
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Good evening,

 

I have a 1.6b xbox, it is currently softmodded (this was done about 12 years ago) and the disk drive died on me to the point where the xbox wont boot to the dashboard (error code 12), anyway I read that since this is a 1.6b motherboard a TSOP flash is out of the question. I purchased a open xenium mod chip and performed the installation. Currently when the xbox is powered off but plugged in the mod chip emits a bright white light. This is after rechecking my joints due to having a bright red light. Im not sure which one of those is good or not. Anyway when I attempt to turn on the console with just the power and video cables and fan plugged in, no controller port cables plugged into the mb and no hard drive/disk drive, the mod chip emits a slightly less intense red light and the LED on the front of the xbox starts of green then flashes orange, fan spins up, then everything goes back to a powered down state and the white light returns. This is when powering on with the eject button btw. If I take the chip off the pin header, the xbox boots to the splash screen then ofc does nothing because there is no hard drive or disk drive.

 

edit: forgot to mention I took a multimeter in continuity mode and the pins and points on the board are all connected as they should be, and I do have a picture of the chip itself but it currently is failing to upload here, ill try to do what I can in that regard

 

Any guidance would be appreciated, attached are some photos of my amateur soldering work.

20240104_195506.jpg

Edited by mcpoodles
forgot some pertinent information
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1 hour ago, mcpoodles said:

20240104_195525.jpg

As @KaosEngineer would corroborate, I would make sure none of the LPC wires are crossed. I see that a bit here. No idea if that'll fix any problems, but it should be done. Also, two if the pins look like they are not connected to the Vias. I would make sure the pins have enough solder to make contact with the outside rings. That may be your problem right there.

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Posted (edited)

Thank you for the advice folks, unfortunately while i was removing the wires to redo the install, i messed up pretty bad, the trace and pad are both missing as you can see in the attached picture, not sure how to proceed from here, any advice would be great.

image.thumb.jpeg.c4b6974d5f7af3f803e3b28b54675ed0.jpeg

Edited by mcpoodles
typo
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28 minutes ago, mcpoodles said:

Thank you for the advice folks, unfortunately while i was removing the wires to redo the install, i messed up pretty bad, the trace and pad are both missing as you can see in the attached picture, not sure how to proceed from here, any advice would be great.

image.thumb.jpeg.c4b6974d5f7af3f803e3b28b54675ed0.jpeg

... How much heat are you using, BTW? It looks like anything the iron touches gets torched.

I'm asking because I don't want you to cause damage for yourself as you are trying to do what you are doing. If you are using too much heat, you may want to dial it back down because I think it is causing you problems.

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17 minutes ago, mcpoodles said:

Thank you for the advice folks, unfortunately while i was removing the wires to redo the install, i messed up pretty bad, the trace and pad are both missing as you can see in the attached picture, not sure how to proceed from here, any advice would be great.

image.thumb.jpeg.c4b6974d5f7af3f803e3b28b54675ed0.jpeg

Follow the trace going off to the right from the test pad that was pulled off to find a via.  Cut a long enough piece of kynar insulated 30 AWG wire-wrap wire to solder from that via to the via on the left of the picture where the trace pulled off of the PCB.

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3 minutes ago, mcpoodles said:

@Bowlsnapper I've been running at 450 and now that you mention it, that is way too hot. 

@KaosEngineer thank you, Im going to give that a shot tomorrow, once that is done where do I place the wire that was supposed to go to the pad that was removed?

 

Try 350 instead. :) Do you have temperature control? Are you using flux? I would bathe those joints in flux on the lpc and let the solder reflow itself. Make sure you fill in the areas that were lacking on two of the pins.

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17 minutes ago, mcpoodles said:

@Bowlsnapper I've been running at 450 and now that you mention it, that is way too hot. 

@KaosEngineer thank you, Im going to give that a shot tomorrow, once that is done where do I place the wire that was supposed to go to the pad that was removed?

 

Yeah 450C is too hot. As Bowl mentions try with 350C. If you aren’t having luck at that temp work your way up to 371-375C but you really shouldn’t need much higher than that with a well tinned tip and flux. Also if you aren’t tinning your wires before soldering them to the board do that as well. 
 

Edit - wasn’t sure of your soldering experience level so I thought I’d mention that just in case. :D 

Edited by FrostyMaGee
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5 minutes ago, mcpoodles said:

@FrostyMaGee it's a newer station, in the past I've used irons that just plug into the wall and start getting hot lol so I had no idea what temp was actually reasonable 

I actually was afraid it was one of those that you were using. I was gonna be like, just get a temp controllable one off Ali and hang out for like 10 days. lol.

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5 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

I actually was afraid it was one of those that you were using. I was gonna be like, just get a temp controllable one off Ali and hang out for like 10 days. lol.

I’ve never seen one of the non controlled temp irons even get hot enough to do that. I bet trying to take a cap off an Xbox mobo with one of those would be an exercise in frustration and futility. Lol

Edited by FrostyMaGee
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I don't know why everyone is saying "too hot"....those joints look ice cold. And a lifted via is probably when the wire was tugged on because the solder hadn't been released yet.

When you say 450 degrees, do you mean Fahrenheit?

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4 hours ago, Marty said:

I don't know why everyone is saying "too hot"....those joints look ice cold. And a lifted via is probably when the wire was tugged on because the solder hadn't been released yet.

When you say 450 degrees, do you mean Fahrenheit?

Is there any iron that measures in farenheit? :P I honestly don't know. I doubt it.

I'm saying too hot because things look scorched everywhere the iron has been and he is lifting pads and vias. He is using too much heat. The joints indeed look VERY cold and that's why I asked about flux. Something is not right. It could be that he is boiling the shit out of the solder and making his joints look that way, but I'm honestly not sure.

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Just now, Marty said:

Most stations I've known have the option to switch between Fahrenheit and Centigrade.

Ah. Then I am a tool. I guess that makes sense and thank you for bringing it up.

@mcpoodles As Marty has asked, is it farenheit or Celcius? His question make sense because your joints look very cold. I think it's celcius because I see scorching everywhere and you are lifting things. Is your station telling you?

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34 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

things look scorched everywhere the iron has been and he is lifting pads and vias.

That's not a tiny via or slim trace....that's a big ol' pad.

It looks like someone got impatient because the iron wasn't dumping enough heat onto the PCB...and the just tugged on the wire.

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1 minute ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Ah. Then I am a tool.

Nawwww, you're a good dude. It's wise to be inquisitive.

Also, unless you have a very high-end soldering station, don't assume the reading on the display is the actual temperature.

You can test with an infrared thermometer. They don't lie.

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11 minutes ago, Marty said:

That's not a tiny via or slim trace....that's a big ol' pad.

It looks like someone got impatient because the iron wasn't dumping enough heat onto the PCB...and the just tugged on the wire.

... That's ACTUALLY a VERY good point. Now I understand why you are asking about farenheit. If he's too cold, it would explain the cold joints and how that trace was pulled up as well. Kudos! :)

But why all the damn scorching on the PCB? You're seeing that, right?

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