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Hello, I purchased this chip a while back and decided to install it in my TSOP modded Xbox so I could add another LCD unit to my collection. the pin header section was removed by the previous owner, which I do not think is a problem because I seen a video of someone using the same chip with the wire install using the solder pads as I did. Every time I press power or eject It frags, but if I remove the DO it boots my TSOP fine. I tried all the button presses to try to get the OS to load, but no go. I have been searching online now for a few hours to no avail, not much info on this chip left out there now. I am hoping someone here has experience with this chip. I see there are 3 spots labeled JP1, JP2 and JP3. it appears they are for adding switches for hard selecting a bios on the chip but I'm just not sure. I think someone flashed it incorrectly, is there a way to rescue the chip? I keep seeing posts about there being a backup on the chip to rescue it.
I'm in the middle of a small project to repair a spares or repair Duke and I'm thinking of converting it over to a USB connection (as one of the problems is a frayed cable) and everything I've read says that I don't need the red wire that's in the original cable. Obviously you couldn't get it to work with USB if you did, but I'm curious as to what it's used for if I don't need it. So far I've seen it called "Video Sync", +12V and VCC, but that doesn't tell me why it's there. Except maybe for "Video Sync", but why would a controller need video sync?
I rebuilt the LPC port on my Xbox v1.6 today and had kind of a tough time with it, so I'm curious what everyone else uses to mod their consoles; type of wire, flux, solder, soldering iron/station, soldering tip, soldering temperature, cleaning solution, etc. I used some 30AWG wire-wrapping wire from Amazon, an Aoyue 937+ with the fine tip that came with it, RadioShack rosin flux paste, and RadioShack 62/36/2 rosin-core solder. I've soldered quite a few 0.1" headers on microcontroller and FPGA development kits with great success, but their pads were like twice as thick as those on the Xbox's LPC port. I had a hell of a time getting the pads to heat so that the solder would flow nicely. I also ended up burning the solder mask in a couple of places where I left the tip on too long trying to get the pads heated. Fortunately it still seems to work, but the joints look pretty bad. I think part of the problem was the fine solder tip, but I didn't have much luck with a chisel tip either.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48