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So a member of the group was asking for a Dport to dport wire he was asking other members if they had one available because he had one of those LCD screens that go on top of the Xbox and use a proprietary wire that connects from the Xbox to the intec inc screen.. I told him it was easy enough to make that it was just a few wires he could not be bothered. This got me thinking maybe I should make an easy-to-follow schematic for this. I did not do any YouTube searches or Google searches. I clearly went off my HDMI schematic and figured out the rest for myself. There was an image going around that shows the dport but it is backwards it shows the front view so in this image you will see that it's been deciphered so it's easier to follow well soldering. I did make one of these wires and had great success I used all brand new hardware that I purchased a little while ago. It is working great very basic wiring. I'm pretty sure this LCD does not provide video over 480i I think that's pretty much the max resolution I could be wrong on that this wire is designed to Output in 480i or your typical composite video signal. This pinout / schematic can potentially save a lot of money. I have not seen one of those wires alone on eBay it always comes with the screen so if somebody is looking for that wire it could be very costly pretty much what they want to pay for it. Not only that the same schematic can apply to somebody who has an RCA entertainment series Xbox Ready TV which has the proprietary dport input. In order to make this wire you can follow the diagrams exactly. Just make sure you add a few extra feet to the length in between. I know I bought one off Amazon and I think it cost me around 35 with shipping. This wire can be easily made from 2 $5 RCA wires. The schematic itself was made and designed by me maybe that's why it does not look the absolute greatest. I'm more of a Hands-On guy than the computer guy so I apologize but it looks pretty self-explanatory easy-to-follow what you do on one end you want to do on the other end. You should be fine the only concern is the jump wire pin 8 to pin 20... I have found if you only do one of the Xbox connections with this jump that connection has to be the one that's plugged into the Xbox itself. If you hook it up the other way around it will not display. So you can either remember to always plug that one in your Xbox or just make sure you jump both sides on both connectors. In order to not have to worry about that. In any event I hope somebody somewhere can benefit from this schematic took me a couple hours to wire up in a couple hours to make the schematic itself. But if it helps at least one person in the community save money than it was totally worth it 4 wire I just used regular RCA's. I'm guessing if you wanted the best kind of quality on this you can always use Xbox 360 shielded component cable wire since that is a high build grade for sure..for 5.1 audio out just tap into pin #3 ...thank you very much Frank
Hello, I purchased this chip a while back and decided to install it in my TSOP modded Xbox so I could add another LCD unit to my collection. the pin header section was removed by the previous owner, which I do not think is a problem because I seen a video of someone using the same chip with the wire install using the solder pads as I did. Every time I press power or eject It frags, but if I remove the DO it boots my TSOP fine. I tried all the button presses to try to get the OS to load, but no go. I have been searching online now for a few hours to no avail, not much info on this chip left out there now. I am hoping someone here has experience with this chip. I see there are 3 spots labeled JP1, JP2 and JP3. it appears they are for adding switches for hard selecting a bios on the chip but I'm just not sure. I think someone flashed it incorrectly, is there a way to rescue the chip? I keep seeing posts about there being a backup on the chip to rescue it.
I'm in the middle of a small project to repair a spares or repair Duke and I'm thinking of converting it over to a USB connection (as one of the problems is a frayed cable) and everything I've read says that I don't need the red wire that's in the original cable. Obviously you couldn't get it to work with USB if you did, but I'm curious as to what it's used for if I don't need it. So far I've seen it called "Video Sync", +12V and VCC, but that doesn't tell me why it's there. Except maybe for "Video Sync", but why would a controller need video sync?
I rebuilt the LPC port on my Xbox v1.6 today and had kind of a tough time with it, so I'm curious what everyone else uses to mod their consoles; type of wire, flux, solder, soldering iron/station, soldering tip, soldering temperature, cleaning solution, etc. I used some 30AWG wire-wrapping wire from Amazon, an Aoyue 937+ with the fine tip that came with it, RadioShack rosin flux paste, and RadioShack 62/36/2 rosin-core solder. I've soldered quite a few 0.1" headers on microcontroller and FPGA development kits with great success, but their pads were like twice as thick as those on the Xbox's LPC port. I had a hell of a time getting the pads to heat so that the solder would flow nicely. I also ended up burning the solder mask in a couple of places where I left the tip on too long trying to get the pads heated. Fortunately it still seems to work, but the joints look pretty bad. I think part of the problem was the fine solder tip, but I didn't have much luck with a chisel tip either.
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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48