ChriZz
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Nobody notices that?
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That's new to me. Thanks for the correction. I only own originals, so that's the only way I know it.
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L1 is intended to control the front LED.
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I haven't read everything yet. But did the Xbox even work before or is it some kind of eBay victim? I also recently had this QUESTION in connection with 3 restarts. It was due to the damaged reset line (pin4) on the lpc. The previous owner simply fried them away. But it was repairable.
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Working on a cap list. Want your opinions
ChriZz replied to FrostyMaGee's topic in General Xbox Discussion
From Nemesis https://www.docdroid.net/KjoNVm8/ogxbox-replacment-capacitors-pdf -
If nothing works, this is what I would do: get enameled copper wire and rewind it. It should be clear that the diameter and the turns must be identical.
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Now I have to ask again. Did you have a sata to ide adapter? And question number 2, do you have that “infamous” yellow, 80-pin IDE cable. There were also many complaints that it led to errors. PS if you do a reflow like that without knowing what it is, well, it usually backfires. Greetings
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Since you've already changed everything, things are starting to get difficult. I hope you don't have the same problem as I did when the heat sinks were removed. Because my console showed exactly the same error. See the picture in the attachment (3 torn pads under the CPU). The 5 capacitors on the CPU are also soldered properly, yes?
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She tries to stop, as you can see in your video, but can't stop. To me it looks like there's something shorted on the circuit board and that's why it's going out. I would roughly check the CPU and GPU for short circuits (multimeter). The power supply works in another console, have you tested that?
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Oh crap, shipping to Germanski costs more than the part is worth. A pity
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48