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Showing results for tags 'xbox'.
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I thought that all of the original Xbox forums online were all gone/dead. It's great to see that there are still active ones to be found! For my first post I wanted to share one of my first Xbox consoles I modded. Its nothing special, just something designed to be used at events where hundreds gather where I wont be afraid to have any number of random visitors using it. The Xbox itself is simply softmodded and it has been reworked to use a 2.5" SATA HDD. From the 120gb it now houses coinops and a number of modded Halo, Timesplitter and Battlefront games. The idea is a very multiplayer friendly console that is intuitive to use. While it has an XBMC dash, it boots directly into coinops so any number of people can use it without having to ask what to do. Before I upgraded the HDD I took a snap of the original guts while I was working on the console. The HDD is sitting on a spacer above the motherboard to allow for increased airflow, done after the capacitors were rewired and replaced. For fans I am using a Sunon for exhaust and the famous Iceberq 4 for the chipset. The PSU has been wired externally similar to a laptop. While I could have used a picopsu, this defeats the purpose of the console being cheap, easy and worry free with strangers using it. It's nothing fancy. But it looks great, its robust, it doesn't overheat after 12+ hour sessions, I have very little money invested in it and I built it so I wouldn't be afraid of strangers mashing on it.
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Ive heard that a major part of the process is booting off of the hexen disc to get it set up. My disc drive is currently non-functional. How would I go about doing a TSOP flash with my Xbox in this state? is it possible? Any help is greatly appreciated!
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I bought a used Xbox (1.4). The chassis fan worked great before. But after I cleaned it up (new thermal paste, removed clock capacitor and replaced the chassis fan with a Noctua 60mm) the fan doesn't want to spin. I've tried setting the fan in the softmod settings as well in NKPatcher but neither work. I thought maybe I damaged the traces on the motherboard but the fan header still outputs power. I used a multimeter to test the fan header and it reads 11.97v. The GPU fan solder pads read 12.02/12.03v but I don't have experience soldering so I would rather get the original one working. I took pictures of the fan header and underneath the fan header. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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hi yall, so i have a v1.1 that will boot into my open xenium menu no issue and xblast with my 128 ram upgrade and xblast shows all chips successful. but will not boot any other bios. I removed ram chip 3 and now boots into all bioses i throw at it. I tried 4 other ram chips that i know work and still wont boot into anything other than my ox menu and xblast. I went over mb with a fine tooth comb no tace damage, i have replaced every capacitor on the motherboard and still wil not boot a bios other than xblast with chip 3 soldered on but still shows successful in xblast ram test. any ideas?
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I have a v1.1 that was modded when i bought it, i added an open xenium mod chip and did the 128mb upgrade with xblast on my open xenium. chips are all successful and xblast loads fine, when i add a new bios to my chip and try to boot that bios i get either flashing green light or solid green with no video with every bios other than xblast bios. Xblast boots no issue from ox menu but no other bios will. it either solid green led or flashing green with no video on screen . I have replaced almost every cap on the board and it still does the same thing. any help would be appreciated wont boot stock hdd either booting perfectly to ox menu and xblast but no other is a very weird issue in my experience and this isnt my first mod
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I recently dug up my old OG Xbox (V1.0) from my parents' basement. It's been sitting for a while, and when I got to it, it was pretty rusted. Right now, it frags most of the time, cycling twice before flashing red and green, but occasionally it boots to an error screen. I'm testing without the disc drive or hard drive connected, so I think the error might be related to that. I haven't managed to get it to boot with the disc drive/HD connected but I'm not sure if that's relevant or just coincidence. It's stock, it hasn't been soft/hard modded and I'm the first person to open it. I’ve done a few console mods and handheld builds before, but this is my first time working on an Xbox. Any help would be really appreciated! Here’s what I’ve tried so far: Cleaned off as much rust as possible and repainted the metal case. I made sure to file off the paint on the contact points and confirmed continuity from the motherboard and PSU to the case. Removed the clock capacitor. There was a lot of gunk around it, but I didn’t spot any bulging or visible damage on the other caps. I reflowed a few of the components nearby that didn't look nice. I cleaned the area with vinegar and IPA. I also ordered a Console5 cap kit, which should arrive in a few days. Found a broken trace on the bottom of the board using this guide (though it's for a 1.1): Trace Corrosion Fix. Couldn't see the break, but my multimeter showed no contact between the points, so I ran a jumper wire. No power button issues so far, so not sure if it’s related to the fragging. Reflowed the solder points on the PSU connector for the power cord. Removed the CPU and GPU heatsinks, cleaned them, and applied new thermal compound. Checked the LPC voltages, and they seem normal according to this LPC Voltage Guide. I’m getting 5.1V and 3.3V. Tried the "3 pin hack" as a long shot in case it was a bad BIOS, but it didn’t seem to help. As recommended in this thread Once the cap kit arrives, I plan to swap out the capacitors, but I’m not sure what else to try after that. I haven’t spotted anything else visually wrong but I'm hoping someone more experienced will see something I can't. Thanks again. Google Photo Album with more pictures
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i bought this xbox v1.6. it has a problem of turning on for few minutes than turns off, after that it keeps turning on for 2 seconds and than off. i opened up the xbox and immediately saw that the power supply was already worked on and whoever did it, did a very ugly job. the power supply is Delta DPSN-96DP. As seen in picture 1 the big capacitor was changed to 400v solder with wires just lying there, the glue was supposed to hold it but it was only stuck on the capacitor and not on the metal and plastic. the below 2 green caps were changed to with higher voltage. both the big and green caps were old used caps. i changed few caps. in picture 2 the caps marked green are what i changed with new and correct caps. the resistor marked red were changed or something else because their underside show sign of different solder than the original ones on board. are these resistors right? in picture 3 the glue on left looks cut off, is there supposed to be different component here or the one here is right? in picture 4 the area circled red, are these capacitors or resistor? they were either changed or lifted than put back with ugly fat soldering. anyway are these right? lastly the mainboard picture these 5 capacitor under cpu/gpu value is 3300uf 16v while online search says its 3300uf 6.3v, are they replaced too? my problem is xbox turning off after few minutes. i tested 500gb desktop hdd, 1tb laptop hdd and without hdd. 500gb desktop hdd turns on for few minutes than off by itself, after that it turns on for 2 seconds and off. have to give it rest for hours to turn it on again for few minutes and than turns off by itself again. 1tb laptop hdd takes very few tries and most of time with first try it turns on and off by itself but stays on for more minutes the 500gb desktop hdd. without hdd always turns on first try and stays on for 10-20 minutes and off by itself. So its just power supply or the main board caps problem too.
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My HDD on my main xbox is an old IDE from 2004 so I decided it was time for an upgrade to modern SATA WD Drive. Only problem is that it now doesn't fit in my case, despite it being large, due to the NES microcontrollers. I'm pretty sure that if I use this adaptor that I can get everything to fit in the case as I'm no longer extending the length of the HDD with my usual goto adaptor. I've tried googling around but everything I see mentions doing some sort of TSOP flash. Is there a way to skip the DVD check without doing a TSOP flash?
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Underclocked 1ghz Xbox to 735mhz by patching the bios to 107mhz FSB (using XBoverclock by WulfyStylez). It fixed GTA Vice City and Rallisport 2, which XBEpatcher (by mwaterbu) did not manage to fix. Not sure if works for all games, but seems like it should. This probably could be loaded by Phoenix Bios Loader or can be on a modchip bank, waiting to be selected when needed. -
I was trying to boot up my dad's old Xbox, and hooked up the power cable to see if it would turn on. It has one of those old replacement cables that were sent out to prevent fires, the ones with a red RESET button and a yellow TEST button. Whenever I plug the Xbox into a live outlet and press the RESET button, the light blinks and the button pops back up, seemingly no longer powering the Xbox. I asked on the Metal Arms: Glitch in the System Discord server, and someone said that it was likely not a cable issue, but rather the "solder joints" needing to be reflowed. I looked up the process and it seems to be a little too much for me to do on my own, so I was wondering if anyone here thinks this is the issue, and also if there's some well-trusted place I could send it to be repaired.
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Hi guys hope you can help me i need the resistor value on the power button board on my xbox 1one x please its R90 the one just after the power button hope you can help cheers
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Looking to purchase an intact AV port for the original xbox. I figure some people might have them lying around from an N64 Freak HDMI mod or something similar so let me know if you have one you're willing to part with!
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Hi everyone. As i mentioned on my introductory post, I have an 1.4 OG Xbox that isn't quite right. I bought it knowing it didn't work, the seller told me a friend of his had replaced the caps and it worked for a while, but that now it's back to not working (when i bought it). After buying it and testing it, it did the classic fragging (reboot 3 times and then "Christmas lights"). When i opened the case, i found the that friend of his did replace some caps, the CPU/GPU ones, but left one without replacing that is arguably way more urgent to replace... the clock cap. Yes, it had already leak all over the place. I cleaned all the acid, removed the cap. Installed a ModXO... and the console boots up!.... but it does by itself, when plugging it to AC... that's not good. Also, pressing the eject button powered off the console. I latter discovered that this is a very known symptom of trace rot. A very good video about it is in the Retro Renegade Repairs channel, he explains in detail how to fix it. It is a matter of bridging the broken traces. If the damage is minimal, you can just bridge tiny gaps, but as i had the trace broken a few times along its length, i opted for just bridging the starting point and ending point of each broken trace with a very thin wire (i used an old IDE cable). This fixed the self powering issue and the eject button works! well, the button does, the tray doesn't open, but that was because the elastic band inside the tray was very old and loose. After cleaning and greasing the tray mechanism, i discovered that the DVD seems to be dead already. It is a Thomson, from what i read over the internet, those drives are the worst ones. So it appears as the previous owner had attempted a softmod, as the HDD already had games and a custom Dashboard. I cloned the Drive with CHIMP, and used XBTable Partitioner to make the clone a new drive, after configuring everything to my liking, i discovered a weird thing. When powering the console, there was no boot animation. Cerbios has a custom one, where is the same as the OG but with custom colors. The screen is just blank, nothing. If i power the console with the Eject button, the console boots in safe mode, skipping the boot animation and goes straight into XBM4G. Then i noticed something i didn't already, there was no sound at all. XBMC4G makes sounds when you move the cursor, but this was completely silent. When launching games, some would load, but then get stuck, and some would just reboot the console. This is where i realized something is still wrong with the console, but i don't really know what. I replaced EVERY capacitor on the board, to no avail. One thing that may have caused this, but i am not really sure, is that when i tried to put an 80 wire IDE cable, the console rebooted itself. The thing is, i don't really remember if the console did or didn't have audio before that. And if this has damaged any crucial part of the motherboard, like the MCPX. I don't think the issue is the RAM, as i read on-line that if it were the case, the console wouldn't even boot. Any ideas? thank you all
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Hi there everyone so anyways I just upgraded my Xbox HDD from 8GB to 1TB last year. But here is the thing, what should I do about it now? Should i hook it up and play with it in the new year? + Should I get a xarcade tank stick for my original Xbox? (Just wondering) -
I did a project similar to this previously so that I could have built in NES ports that could use any controllers from any manufacturer work on the Xbox without any modifications. My friend really liked this design so he asked me to build one for him as well. I call it stealth because it can sit under your tv and guests would assume it's a receiver or an amp. The xbox is soft modded with the usual stuff and runs cooler than factory with my weird setup. I didn't want to waste two iceberq4 fans for a non slim build so instead I bent some pins and threw in a Noctua fan. The picture below is a mockup before completion as I forgot to snap more pics before I gave it to him. It's been 6 years and it still running strong I originally had a different xbox in mind for this with a Chameleon mod chip, if I remember correctly. The previous owner let the capacitors leak resulting in it always powering on when plugged in. I was ok with this, given its use case, until it caused issues when running so I quickly put this softwood together for him instead.
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So after many attempts I'm thinking it's the disc drive luckily I have another og xbox coming
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The XBox game Thief Deadly Shadows (Thief 3) has a serious bug. If you select a harder skill setting than 'normal', then when the game performs a load (either loading a save game, or when you reach a load point in the game's levels), then the difficulty would be set back to normal, which removed much of the challenge, as the game's AI was much more alert on higher skill levels. The PC version was fixed by fans, but of course the XBox never received the fix. A few days back, I posted on the Through the Looking Glass forum (https://www.ttlg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152823) hoping for more information (and also hoping that the problem would be a very easy fix, such as just editing .cfg or .ini files), and (brilliantly!) the author of the fix answered, but I'm not able to do anything with the information. So if anyone proficient with XBox programming could look at the reply, and attempt to get the XBox version of the game fixed, then that would be really good. Thief 3 is a great game, but the difficulty level is really nerfed because of this bug, sadly. -
hey everyone thanks to a bunch of people in discord, i managed to wire a wii2hdmi adapter to the xbox for hdmi and audio, works great and there is a difference between it and composite, i dont have a good way to screenshot it, i tried doing a live stream on twitch but was having connection problems so it does not look to good, however if you want you can check the videos here https://www.twitch.tv/ironsniper1/videos and here is the diagrams, the one with the top of the xbox av port is if you completely desoldered the av port and are replacing the av port with the adapter and the bottom is if you are leaving the av port and just soldering in some wires to the port and adapter
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New user here, so my apologies if I've posted this in the wrong sub-forum. What is the best utility boot disk for an (modded) original XBox, please? So that if your Xbox won't boot because of a problem with the hard drive, then you can download and burn a disc image containing things like an XBox file manager, a utility to lock/unlock the hard drive, (re)-install a specfic dashboard (such as Evo-X), etc. Then put this disk in your XBox, boot up, and you then get access to the utilities so you can fix the problem just using the botable utilities disc. I vaguely remember Slayers and Hexen, but not enough to decide which to use now, plus there might be better or more useful such utility discs nowadays. So what would anyone recommend please? Also, another question, if you'll allow me. Say you have a working original XBox, and it boots up from hard drive properly, to a working dashboard, and you can then load your games and emulator from hard drive. Basically, everything is working fine. But you want to try a different dashboard, then if you were to copy everything from the XBox's partition to a temporary folder on the, say, F: drive, such as: F:\XBMC_bootup_C_partition then if you installed a different dashboard, tried it, and didn;t like it, and wanted to go back to the original, XBMC dashboard, then if you just deleted everything from the partition, and copied every file back from the 'F:\XBMC_bootup_C_partition' folder back into the partition then would the XBox be returned to it's former boot-up state, and everything would work properly, as before? Thanks for any answers.
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On the XBox, some commercial games could run third party fan-made mods (provided the XBox was modded), which was amazing. I remember games such as Morrowind, the Grand Theft Auto games, Star Was Battlefront 2, etc, supporting this. The big limitation was memory, of course, as the XBox only had 64 MB of RAM (which was also used for video RAM), but I have had my XBox upgraded to 128 MB, so I was wondering in anyone had released a patch for any of these games to allow the game to access more than 64 MB of RAM, and so allow more mods to be used with applicable games. Also, or course, fan-ported games such as Duke Nukem 3D (using 'XDuke'), Shadow Warrior (using 'ShadowX), Doom 1 and 2 (using 'Doom-X'), and I think ports of Quake 1 and 2, etc (I don't like the Quake games, so I can't speak from experience), can use third party mods, and with these ports being written specifically for the XBox, then they would see more likely to maybe receive 128 MB support upgrades. Have any of these ports been upgraded, to allow for the support of more demanding mods.
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Has anyone seen this? After talking to a well known scene member he says its legit. up to 8tb hdd and .iso supported. From xbox scene forums: "This is a new custom bios with all existing and new features implemented by the team.While we may share some similarities that can be found in bioses such as config loading, custom colors etc, our solution will be different compared to all existing solutions.In addition new tools will also be released to take advantage of some of the features we have implemented.With our custom LBA support we now support hdds up to 8TB in storage size.No more 2.2tb limitations and file corruption.***8TB size limit may be expanded upon again in the futureMore info will be made available in due time Everyone loves a little ISO in their life. So why not add it natively into our bios.No more patching Bioses with hacky ASM, Diskutilities, Dashloader or Nkpatcher.With Cerbios just boot your console select your favorite game and enjoy endless hours of fun.Existing attach.xbe compatible.Check out the videos below of two problematic games working flawlessly as ISO and on 128mb hardware using Cerbios.https://emalm.com/?v=WU9GVhttps://emalm.com/?v=RNwC3But why should I use ISOs over HDD dumps?Well with our custom LBA support for HDD up to 8TB there is no excuse about not having enough space.ISOs do not have file length limitation like some HDD rip games do, so no patching or truncating of file names is required.All DRM checks pass as ISO (Harry Potter).More info TBA" Cerbios Alpha V1.zip
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Is this power supply multivolt? A friend gave me this power supply and it worked on a 220v outlet despite it saying 100-127v. This power supply doesn't look like it's been modded. I have other power supplies of the same model and I've been using a 110v to 220v transformer with them.
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Hi there, I updated to Cerbios a few month ago and installed a 3tb, now my xbox refuses to boot this one up, cerbios says it can't find the dashboard. Prior to this the xbox froze while playing games and hung while scrolling the menu. The 2tb hdd which i was using before refuses to boot completely without an error code, just black screen - no signal whatsoever. Both hdds load fine on fatxplorer. Using 40pin80wire and startech adapter. My even older 1tb is the only hdd being recognized by the xbox. Could this be a bios problem or are the drives just fubar? Any help is appreciated
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I've been working on these files. A few are finished, and I plan to make one for each revision of Xbox, along with many of the DVD drives and PSUs. You can import these files into Mouser's website. The capacitors are properly spec'd, and the quantities are already listed. If anyone happen to notice anything I could improve, please let me know! I tried my best to pick the highest quality, best fitting components. Attached are the lists I have completed so far. If anyone has lists of their own for the other revisions, Drives, or PSUs I would be interested in seeing them. Thanks all! GLHF Xbox 1.01.1 Mainboard Capacitors.xls Xbox Delta DPSN-96AP96AP-1 Capacitors.xls Xbox Clock Super Capacitor.xls Xbox Phillips VAD6035 DVD Drive Capacitors.xls
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Hope it is OK to post this link here but it pretty much covers the problem my, currently most used, Xbox has developed out of the blue in the last week too. https://old.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/u35int/problem_with_xbmc_flickering_not_affecting_any/ Any suggestions here as there has not been many new ideas posted to that thread about this problem since it was first reported? As indicated this only seems to affect XBMC whether running as main dash or app, all v3 versions and right back before that to the older XBMC v9.04 circa 2008. Not tried it yet with the suggested v2.0 version. UnleashX and EvoX as apps work without issue. Swapping skins (from Xbox-Classic v3.0 compatibility update) makes no difference either. Not tried it with other cables (currently using proven good RGB SCART) or other TV types.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48