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Welcome to the OGXbox community! We're excited to have you join us. Take a moment to introduce yourself and share your journey with the original Xbox. What was your first game? What are your fondest memories of the OG Xbox? Are you a collector, modder, or simply a passionate fan? Let's get to know each other! -
Hey everyone, I'm having a problem with an original xbox that will turn on, with a solid green light for a second, then turn itself off. Then back on with an orange blinking light, then turn itself off and on again until finally staying on with a blinking orange light with it's fan running 100% speed, this would indicate some sort of FRAG and some other issue. Unlike other times in that situation where it's normally a temperature sensor failing where it will shut down, this doesn't turn off. The power button doesn't seem to have any effect after turning on. Holding does nothing. It's a 1.1 revision board. The temperature sensor area is clean with minimal clock cap leakage, and the Xbox is otherwise tidy. It's got an xecuter x2 lite. Disabling via the switch on the front panel to the chip does nothing. Soldering looks tidy. I notice there's no D0 grounding underneath. There is a wire directly from the chip to ground though. Where to from here? Should I put on a D0 and see if that changes anything. Should I then remove the chip and see if we're able to boot if the first step doesn't help?
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I'm working on my second original Xbox (version 1.6) motherboard, trying to install a mod chip. Unfortunately, I've run into the same issue as with my first attempt. After completing the installation, the console refuses to power on. I've removed the mod chip, yet the console still won't turn on. Even after disconnecting all wires, there's no response. However, power is reaching the board—the LED on the mod chip lights up when plugged into the header socket. With my first motherboard, I used an LPC board, whereas on this second one, I opted for direct wiring. I'm confident my wiring and soldering are correct. The mod chip I'm using is the Aladdin XT Plus 2. Could the mod chip be causing this issue? It's the only constant between both attempts. But if the chip were the problem, why wouldn’t the console power on even after its removal? I'd really like to understand what's going on. At this point, I'm considering buying a pre-modded 1.6 motherboard with a chip installed. If anyone knows where I can find one, that would be much appreciated.
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Hey OGXbox community! I recently fired up my old original Xbox and I’m thinking about upgrading the hard drive so I can load games, emulators, and maybe explore more homebrew options. I’ve come across a few tutorials online, but a lot of the info seems outdated or inconsistent. Before I start, I wanted to ask here what’s the most reliable method these days for swapping the HDD? I’m looking at using a SATA drive with an IDE adapter, but I’d love to hear what’s working best for folks right now. Also, will a softmod be enough, or is a modchip still the way to go? Side note: I’ve been going through some Alteryx Training for work lately and it really got me into that “tinkering and optimizing” mindset — figured now's the perfect time to revisit the Xbox modding scene! Would really appreciate any advice, tips, or trusted guides you guys recommend. Glad to be here with fellow OG Xbox fans! Thanks, joloh -
Hi guys, I am looking buy the Ruby Red Xbox preferably NOT modded but modded is fine. I am NOT looking for just the shell, I am looking for a working Xbox.
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I wasted a good portion of the last 3 or 4 years, lots of time and money on this idea. I've created then thrown away at least 6 full prototype xbox case prints that I was not happy with, redesigned several times etc. Here is a link to all versions from start to finish. It's not perfected still, but I am happy enough with mine that I'm not willing to pursue this anymore. I've shared them on cults3d and thingiverse but it's hard to put all the data there. To be clear, anyone can do anything they want with any files I've shared.. print and sell, edit, etc etc. Includes x3cp stl, xtender stl, stock face stl, power button stl, and prototype stl or obj files. I even tried to make a theme based on prototype. It should all be found here. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jPioe3_N8f_HiEhmXxccLfFvJ9h86N6K
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It does for real..... So I put xbox360 slim inside a og xbox. I rewired the front panel work with original buttons and added one extra button for the sync button. Hardest part was to make the dvd drive to fit perfectly. I had to make some crude legs for it. I added larger fan, but then I was like that's not special enough. This sucker will be watercooled. That's more like it. Just need a little bit slimmer fan and install it under the radiator and cut holes to the top cover. It's a perfect fit. On the bottom window you can see the final resting place for the hard drive. Peace XD
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recently purchased a broken 1.1v xbox from ebay. it had never been opened before and the problem was just that the foxcon psu had it's common failure where solder joints break. however, the person that owned the xbox apparently tried hard to pry the disc tray open to get their game out. since no game was left in the tray, they appear to have been successful. when this dvd player is connected to the xbox, i get an error 7. when i connect another dvd player to it, the xbox works fine. so my question is, based on what happened, what could they have messed up inside the the dvd player that the xbox cannot even see it? it is a samsung drive so it probably worth trying to fix.
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I recently modded twelve consoles for a gaming bar. All of them are using Xenium chips, Cerbios, and have XBMC4Gamers dashboards. The owner of the bar was complaining that the consoles will shut off after a few hours of being idle. Basically he's got them on any given game screen just idle non-stop until somebody plays them. They're not overheating since they have new paste and nexus silent fans with the fans set at 75% at all times. I was curious is there a setting to shut down the console after it's idle for a certain amount of time or something I can go and change for him? -
Hello. I wanted to upgrade RAM on my Xbox. First I TSOPed Cromwell inside and it booted. Then I soldered 4 RAM chips from China and Xbox started reboots and showed errors: Green, Green, Green50%-Red50%. After which I desoldered new RAM, but FRAG was still there. I guessed something was wrong with TSOP chip. When I got this Xbox it had some noname modchip from 2003 which I can't even guess clone what of. Anyway, error code switched to: Green, Green, Orange50%-Red50%. Which is RAM error, I guess. Now I think I should have tested it with each new RAM chip soldered. I only left original 4 RAM chips inside right now, but it still FRAGs. What can I do to repair it?
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Just repaired a 1.6b that had a blown RAM bank 2. This is my first ever 1.6b I've worked on. Usually with FRAO systems there's a good reason for a RAM to die and it's usually a thick layer of once damp dust messing with things. But this time the motherboard was fairly clean. Since this is my first 1.6b I don't have a record of common faults like I do with the others. Do Hynix RAM chips commonly go bad?
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I have a strange issue in my set up. I have my OG Xbox (OpenXenium, PrometheOS, Cerbios, Xbmc4Gamers) connected to a RetroTINK 4k using a component cable. I made this component myself from a Xbox 360 component cable and OG Xbox AV connector (actually I made two of them). When I turn on the RetroTINK 4K and turn on the OG Xbox the audio volume is very low. But no distortion is persent, not in the video nor in the audio. When I reseat the AV connector on the Xbox side the volume is on a normal level. When I connect the Xbox using the same cable directly to a TV, the volume is always on a normal level. I have the same issue with two component cables. Today I finished recapping my Xbox, with no luck. Anyone knows how to fix this?
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Recently sourced this Xbox from Japan, thought i'd show it off here! Numbered 735 out of 1000, and has "Kazutoshi 5 Shimizu" etched into it. -
This is going to start out as just being copied directly over from my thread on BitBuilt about the project. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/xboxpsu.3387/ The xbox has some mildly odd power requirements. It uses the same 20 pin Molex MiniFit Jr connector that an ATX PSU output, however the pinout is completely different. As it stands, the typical solution is to use a PicoPSU, a small ATX PSU, a modify it to work with the original xbox. PicoPSUs can be had for around $15, the power supplies for them can be had for around $10. It's a very inexpensive solution. Traditionally when this is done, the Power OK and Power On lines are ignored, the PSU is set to always on, and the wires are run all catywumpus to get to where they need to go. While this solution works, it's definitely a hack, and I believe we can do better. So what are the xbox's actual power requirements? While I haven't actually cut up a power supply and tried to get the xbox to full load while measuring the current draw, I have a V1.1 PSU here that handily has the power requirements right on the label. Max Output Power: 96W DC Output: +5V -- 13.2A +3.3V -- 4.8A +12V --1.2A +3VSB -- 0.045A I hope it's safe to assume that further revisions of the xbox had similar or lower power draw. Regardless, this seems like a good starting point. So, how do I plan to accomplish this? With 4x LM2678 Regulators from Texas Instruments. http://www.ti.com/product/LM2678 Why 4 regulators for 3 voltages? The LM2678 is a 5A regulator. I need 13.2A on the 5V line. Having looked at the specs for the PicoPSUs that seem to work just fine, they're rated for 8A on the 5V line. This leads me to believe that 10A should suffice, so I'll need two regulators for 5V. I'll also need a 12V regulator, as I plan to run this off of an easily obtainable laptop power supply rather than needing to source an 8A 12V supply. I will also be designing a smaller footprint alternative that runs off of 12v for when space is of the highest concern. I'll likely also break down the xbox's power requirements even further at some point to see if I can't design a PSU that allows for aggressive trimming, but that's much further down the road. -------------------------------------------- I've designed the first iteration of the 24v board, it's 60*32mm. Now that it's done, I don't like it for a variety of reasons. I'm going to try again, putting the low profile components on the backside of the board and the tall components on the topside of it. Maybe I'll be able to squish it down a bit more in the process. -------------------------------------------- There, that's a little better. 27.5*49.25 mm -------------------------------------------- Oh, hey, I worked on this a bit. I ditched the 12v regulator and changed it to 12v in. I also had to source different inductors, which are sadly larger, so the whole board got a couple of mm wider in the process. 26.5mm*57.2mm I think I'm gonna actually order this one, and see if it works. -------------------------------------------- I've since looked at the most recent revision and noticed a couple of flaws in it. I've repaired those flaws, and I'm gonna sleep on it again, look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow, and probably order it.
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Hi,Im building a Rework station with arduino mega2560 + ramps 1.4 using marlin firmware. I have a problem, i want to use PS3 Controller to control stepper motors and i don't find anywhere how to use PS3 controller with marlin firmware, i only found about lcd + encoder, but i really want to try PS3 controller to control the x,y-axis. Does anyone have experience with this? -
Here you get a shit load of pre patched EvoX files. 144 EvoX bios'es in total. These files are for 128MB XBox'es version 1.0-1.4 and 1.6/1.6b. You get these in many different versions in many flavors like: EvoX 128MB (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB HDplus (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB HDplus 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB XBoxHDMI (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB XBoxHDMI 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA2 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA2 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA4 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA4 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA5 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA5 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA2 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA2 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA4 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA4 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA5 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA5 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA2 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA2 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA4 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA4 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA5 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA5 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) ******************************************************************************* Some infos about the patches I used: Titan Patch Version: 1.1.0 MakeMHz XBoxHDMI Patch Version: 1.4.3 MakeMHz HDplus Patch Version: 1.0.2 MakeMHz EvoX 128MB Ram Patch Version: 1.0.0* *Could also be v1.0.1 how ever, it's the latest m8plus_true_128MB_fixed.ips. ******************************************************************************* All these bios'es are sorted* and ready to use with XBlastOS or any other flasher which requires that the bios is named bios.bin which has to be in C:\bios (C:\bios\bios.bin). Note: YD = yesDVD and ND = noDVD*. (*Yes you can still boot/cold boot any DVD you like with it!) All these files are also packed as bios.rar files using winrar 3.0. So you could unpack these with UnleashX etc.. (Only of interest if you go to use these of an installer). That lead me to one thing. If you are one of the last ones who creates installer, feel free to use these files on your disc. ******************************************************************************* Credits and a HUGE thanks for the patches fly out to: MakeMHz and Gaasedelen. And also a HUGE thanks to Donnie-Burger for testing. ******************************************************************************* And don't forget to suppport the Devs! Buy'em some coffee because nothing works without coffee! Visit : https://github.com/gaasedelen/titan https://github.com/MakeMHz ******************************************************************************* Download Folders: Mega : https://mega.nz/folder/JFlR2Q5C#lxK9TfF_sgGxl2gPI4uqIw 1fichier : https://1fichier.com/dir/cdrhapgD ******************************************************************************* PEACE! EDIT: How to update your ram on a XBox 1.6/1.6b :
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Shipping from USA, WA! 1 Sealed Gray Japan Original Xbox Controller ($175 USD + Shipping) 1 Sealed Black Japan Original Xbox Controller ($150 USD + Shipping) *Please note the rubber deterioration, due to age, on the thumbsticks.
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On one of my Xboxes I have performed a recap (had some experience doing a NES and N64). I did the PSU first, with succes. Then the main PCB, but now the Xbox doesn't turn on. No LEDs, no video output. Only a slight crackling sound (almost not audible), but It's hard to pin point where te sound is coming from. Already tried reflowing the caps, but without any luck. Unfortunately I already threw away de caps, so can't change them back. All caps have the right orientation, clock cap has been removed and changed to a resistor.
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pm me if you have one original xbox skeleton black controler
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What's the best replacement fan to make the Xbox run quieter?
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Yesterday I installed the OpenXenium modchip from one Xbox to another (both 1.6 revs). I had to disconnect the LPC rebuild PCB, which was kind of a nightmare, but it worked. After installing it, the Xbox booted with modchip connected. But didnt't start without it. Which I thought was weird. So I tried reflowing a couple of the connection with no luck, instead the Xbox wouldn't boot with or without the modchip connected. I decided to remove the LPC rebuild PCB and restore the LPC by handwiring it. Now the Xbox does boot without the modchip connected to the LPC port, but with the modchip installed it doesn't. The green power LED turns on for approx 1 second. And on the OpenXenium a RED led. I have already ordered a new LPC rebuild PCB. Hope anyone over here knows how to solve this. I already meassured al of the pins on the LPC port with a multimeter and all expected voltages are present. I have bridges the two pads on the OpenXenium which are neccesary for a 1.6 rev.
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So, I have had my Xbox basically my entire life. So, It's had a bit of a run. It's currently completely unmodified. Lately, though, I have been having a few problems with it. 1) Ty the Tasmanian Tiger 2: Bush Rescue played perfectly fine, and loaded quite fast, but it had issues with FMVs. 2) Robots did not load at all. I thought the disk had decayed, but now I am not so sure. 3) Spongebob: Battle for Bikini Bottom ran Okay, but dialogue audio would start a second or so later than it should. 4) A known working copy of Halo 2 that I had played a few months ago can no longer be read. THis is what tipped me off to the possibility that it could be the optical drive. Are these symptoms of a dying disk reader? If so, what should I replace it with? Is it finally time to hard mod my beloved xbox to give it a longer life? Side note: Is it normal for the picture to be weirdly dark when adapted from the video output to HDMI? I have heard of old consoles like this having capacitor issues with the display out after some time; could that happen to the Xbox?
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Has anyone replicated the front of the XBOX Alpha 1 or 2 Case?
avery posted a topic in Hardware Mods
As many others have I am looking to build a replica of the Alpha 2 but wanted to also replicate the front of the case. Has anyone else done this before? -
Hello, I have the XBOX Original from 2002-11-22, and I've installed Rocky5 on it. I also have a WD10EZEX hard drive. I saw from this link how to upgrade the drive. I downloaded TruHeXEn, but it doesn't boot into Linux. Could something be missing, or is the drive incompatible?
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Occasionally I see posts on here about people with Xboxs that output no video but show a solid green light like it's working. Often times it gets unresolved. I came across an Xbox with this issue today. After a deep clean, 100% recap and new thermal paste (and undoing some terrible soldering and burn damage from the previous owners attempts to change the CPU caps, ffs) I began fault finding the video issue. Turns out the video circuit was totally ok, same with the RAM. The issue in the end was a corrupted TSOP, so a modchip sorted it right out! It's not going to be this solution every time. But if you're trying to fix this problem yourself and come across this post, try ruling out the TSOP by installing a modchip
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48