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I installed and Open Xenium mod chip and the MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI mod in my old 1.6 Halo SE Xbox, along with a cheap SSD. I initially had everything running, & was able to boot into the EvoX dashboard as well as play games. Once I put all the case screws in & set it up, it booted normally once. After that boot, any other attempt was met with 3 failed boots followed by flashing red and green. I disconnected all the wires, reconnected them, and tried again. Again, 1 normal boot followed by endless FRAG results. Like in Greyleaf's thread, my Open Xenium chip doesn't light up at all with the FRAG boot attempts. I am a soldering novice, having only completed a Boxy Pixel GBA SP Unhinged build and GBC build. I did get some recommendations from a fried for better flux partway through the mod. I accidentally lifted a pad on the HD+ ribbon cable, but I ran a small wire to the trace farther up the cable . My first attempt to solder the cable had some issues. I completely removed & resoldered it. When the system boots, I do have functional video output. If I remove my Open Xenium chip from the pin connector, it boots into an error 16 page (I guess no surprise with a modified dashboard & unlocked drive). I replaced the clock capacitor and reflowed the solder for the Open Xenium. None of this has solved the issue. I also made a Reddit thread when I started troubleshooting. I think I've written the important details here, but it's there if I missed anything important. Summary: 1.6 Xbox Halo SE Delta DPSN-96DP PSU Open Xenium mod chip MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI port SSD upgrade I'm a novice Successfully boots once after reassembly (so far at least) Second boot attempt leads to 3 boot attempts then FRAG No lights on Open Xenium chip during failed boot process Normal lights on XboxHD+ during failed boot Disconnecting Open Xenium mod chip gives error 16 boot screen Looking for any troubleshooting help. Thanks.

Reposted with pics on Imgur: https://imgur.com/gallery/rH19myY I need help flashing this corrupt Bios chip on my Og Xbox. Unfortunately this is the only way i can reflash it, as i attempted to flash it but forgot to bridge the points now my Og Xbox only works with a modchip. I got around to picking up a programmer TL866II Plus with Xgpro v11.90 Flasher tool. But i keep getting a pin detect error. I first tried it with a new exact replacement chip using a TSOP 40 adaptor. Then ended up losing that chip. And desoldered the one from the motherboard. I also removed the cold solder from the adaptors and added some fresh new high quality solder with flux to make sure that isn’t the problem. I socketed it into the slot and no luck “Pin detect error”. I then ordered another adaptor this time without a socket and i soldered on the bios chip. I also redid the solder joints, as the ones on that adaptor were dull aswell, and no luck. I picked up the correct or the closest settings on the Xgpro v11.90 software. I tried TSOP 40 Hyundai and Hynix HY29F080 with no luck. It yet again gives me a “Pin detect error”. I even tried auto detect and it says chip not supported. On the chip it says Hyundai HY29F080T-90, but i can’t find that exact model number on the menu. Could that be the issue or is it something else. I have no idea as this is my first time using a programmer. And saw a video or two on how to use it.

i, like many others, started having problems with my xbox after replacing the thermal paste. graphics glitching, freezing, frag'ing, and sometimes it would just go into a coma on me. it appears that the problem is that some of the solvent for cleaning the thermal paste gets underneath the gpu chip and causes a short. 1st off, i do not recommend replacing the thermal paste on these consoles but if u already have and are now having problems then here is how to fix it. get a bottle of 91% rubbing alcohol with a squirt top on it(i suggest a quart bottle), hold the motherboard on it's side, and squirt the alcohol all over it. be certain that plenty is going under the gpu. next, take a hair dryer and dry the board very well. be careful not to get it too hot. a good rule of thumb is that if any part of the board is uncomfortable to lay your hand on and keep it there, then it is too hot and should be allowed to cool. next, sit the board in the xbox, hook up the psu, connect a tv and power on the system a few times to be certain that it appears to be working before full reassembly. BE CERTAIN TO REAPPLY THERMAL PASTE AND HEATSINKS BEFORE POWERING ON! i'm not certain that it will overheat the chips without the heatsinks for a quick test but it isn't worth the risk. this fixed my xbox that i was concerned i had forever killed.

I have the Aladdins. I made the jtag cable with 3.3v output utilizing a USB blaster. I managed to get the drivers installed in windows 11. I have the XBlast Aladdin svf file. I have quartus. I have a tl866II. I have the SST flash adapter for the xgecu. I have 1mb flash chips. I should have the software installed for the SST flashing. I have everything. Just don't know how to use the software. Tried urjtag and it just gave me bullshit errors and I don't wanna fuck with it. What do I do? @sweetdarkdestiny @KaosEngineer @SS_Dave @ModzvilleUSA

Can I make money out of making and selling original games for the console? The games will have original assets and settings to avoid copyright and will be sold with decent prices so I thought it was a good idea. But is it legal to do it? Meerjel01

I really don't want to do it, but I'm considering selling this immaculate console that I restored with a NOS LCD screen and 3d printed resin buttons. I loaded it with my image which has all games and roms on it. Also some good music. Would anybody be interested? Don't know what to sell it for...

As the title says, I have a Xbox v1.6 modded with a DuoX2 Hyundai chip that I haven't used for years and now I get no TV-signal. I then remembered I could start it without the chip by starting it with the open button. Then I did get a working TV-signal so my problem seem chip related. One time when I tried to start I think the xbox ring blinked green and red, but now it always look normal green. I am basically a comlete nuub when it comes to electronics but I do have a soldering iron etc including a multimeter so I'm ready to try some CPR. I did clean some goo from the mod chip between the switch and the chips, but can those even leak something? Most of what you see in the image as white is reflection of light and not that worn out from cleaning with a q-tip and isopropanol. I pulled the switch back and forth a few times to clean dust from it and make sure it has a good connection. The chip blinks red once every second but I read that this is normal for this chip when it runs. The thought have crossed me to try to boot it switched the other way just to see what happens, but that is for lower versions of the motherboard I believe and I had never opened the xbox before so it should be in the right position. The motherboard seems fine too me. No leakages and all its capacitors look fine to me. I have the golden clock capacitor which seems to be in good condition. However the PSU Delta D capacitors may be leaking, or are those just some production markings? Looks a bit like some pen mark. The big capacitor have a surface difference on top due to my cleaning. I didn't want to clean it where it seems to have a blue stain before the photo so it is the blue stain I am wondering about. If they are leaking I suppose new capacitors or a new psu could perhaps solve my problems? I read that one thing I could try is to use some flux and resolder the mod chip but since I'm a bit inexperienced I don't want to do it if I don't have to so I don't make a worse mess. But I just came to think of the fact that the entire chip can be tilted in it's socket on the motherboard. I dont know if it is supposed to fit that loose in the socked or if that socket is the problem? I also read about a similar problem where it was recommended to try to reinstall bios in the mod chip by using a separate working chipped xbox and switch the chip just before install, but buying a working chipped xbox kind of defeats the purpose of fixing my old one. I suppose I can't install bios on the chip if I start it from without the chip by using the open button to power on and it would be difficult to install bios without a working TV-signal I guess. Any helpful thoughts on where I should start? Are the PSU capacitors busted so I should start there or should I just get a new mod chip or what would you suggest? Just buying a new chip don't seem that easy either though.

i have a hardmodded og xbox made in 2005 with a upgraded 120g hdd. the hdd is worn down recently and disk error ocuur from time to time. so i want to replace the hdd. i purchased a 120g IDE hdd made in 2000s, but it has never been used. i disconnet the old hdd and connect the new one to my console, drop the hexen 2018 disc into dvd drive, power on the console. it is supposed the hexen will detect the unpartitioned hdd and display something like this but actually, the screen is stuck at this: if i replace this new hdd with the old ones(both the original 8G HDD or the 120G HDD which i have used many years), the hexen UI can appear within 30 seconds, so it is unlikely that the hexen dvd is problematic. So what may be the cause of the stuck scrren when connected with the new HDD?

This Xbox had one issue of being placed in a different case and shorting. I replaced the faulty 2T transistor and all was working. Voltages were normal on all rails. I then was getting glitchy video on composite cable so I changed the large caps on the board and the video issue went away. It powered on and work fine all day. Even would power cycle multiple times without issue and run stable with any game I threw at it or just stay running for hours. The next day it would not power on at all. I changed the two large output caps on the PSU and reseated the modchip and it booted and ran perfectly so I played Doom3 for a few hours without issue. Shutdown normally. Next day it would not power on again.

Hi all, I've recently bought this adapter , I connected it to the power and the data cables (Seagate SATA 250gb drive 3.5"), inserted Slayer Evox 2.7 DVD, but it stucks a bit into the Xbox splash screen (while showing the pink icon on the top-left, no "Slayer Evox 2.7" appears below the Xbox logo) before giving me Error 16. So I switched back to the old PATA drive, Evox launched correctly, switched the drives (while Evox still running) but : - when I format, it takes ages and returns '0' on each partition - when I try to lock/unlock it freezes (blank text on blue container) - when I try install as new large hdd it takes to formatting - when I try to install just Evox on C it takes weirdly no time (after formatting all partitions took ages as usual). Edit: I just tried, left the console for a while, then returned and as before all partitions shown '0' and when I reboot (thinking the install process was complete) same Error 16 as before, sometimes error 7 So what I'm supposed to do? FYI: the adapter has no "slave/master" thing on it, just the 40 pins and the power ones (but it seems making the hard drive working/sounding).

I'm messing around with my own Xbox OG and have a modchip with Cerbios in it. I also changed the default hard drive with a SATA 160GB version and an IDE2SATA adapter with 80 wires 40 pins IDE cable. The boot is slow and yes I know the cheap IDE2SATA adapters can be annoying. But I used the exact same adapter in other Xboxes and they work fine. So, I did some testing. With the DVD drive attached (in the cerbios.ini it is defined as DriveSetup = 1 (which is HDD & No DVD (Legacy Mode)) the boot time is 42 seconds. When I detach the DVD drive, the boot time is aprox 20 to 21 seconds before the full EvolutionX dash is loaded. I tried several DVD drives (the one original in this Xbox is a Thompson, but I also tried Philips, Samsung) and the load time is with the DVD drive attached always 42 seconds and without at max 21 seconds. I also tried another 80 wires 40 pins IDE cable a had laying around, but same issue. Because I sometimes use the DVD drive I can`t eliminate it, so I'm out of ideas. If the adapter was also slow without the DVD, I would suspect that to be the problem, but in this case the performance without the DVD is fine (I also tested the adapter in a PC and it has good throughput). So if anyone has an idea to check and improve the time with the DVD attached it would be nice.

How to fix the 4 screens bug when patching to 720p in OGXHD

Hi I wanted to upgrade the ram and I accedently lifted pin 55 acording to the datasheet it is CK is there a way to repair it?

Limited Edition Japanese “Skeleton” Xbox for sale! This is my whole collection I’ve been working on for 5 years. I have lost interest in it and it just sits around unused. I’d like it to go to someone who would actually enjoy it! Everything is tested and working except for the wireless controllers. I recently picked those up and have not tested them. It’s possible they work just fine. Minor cosmetic scuffs on everything but does not effect functionality. A cracks on the Xbox itself, mostly around where the case screws go. One of the corners does have damage. See pics. Asking for $650 or best offer shipped in the US. PayPal only. Let me know if you have any questions! What’s included: - Limited Edition Japanese “Skeleton” Xbox - 4 special edition controllers - 3 wireless controllers (untested) - Pound HDMI adapter - Madcatz HD component/composite cable - 3 controller extension cables - 1 controller port to usb female adapter - power cable Mods: - TSOP flashed 1.4v motherboard w/ EvoX bios - 128mb ram upgrade - Startech IDE to Sata adapter - 80 wire IDE cable - 1TB SSD drive - Insignia Live setup (account/gamertag will be included) - DVD drive delete - XBMC-Emustation Dashboard - RGB lights

Everytime i try to get insignia on my xbox it says it can't connect to the server than i go the troubleshooting and it says that the DNS can't be resolved i am running the connection from a bridged connection on my pc could that be causing it?

Holy shit. This was quite the process and really tested my patients. First off I installed all 4 chips at once since I didn't think Xblast could be flashed to the tsop or that it wasn't a good idea. I know better for next time. Took me about 2 hours to get all the chips installed and I thought my soldering looked really good. No bridges, but all this xbox would do is frag. After fucking with it for about 4 hours I decided I had enough and put it away thinking the box was dead. This morning I decided to have another go at it, went back over my soldering and once again thought it looked really good but the damn machine still wouldn't boot. Now, I'm really frustrated. I take out the solder braid and start wicking off the solder in attempt to remove the chips. I notice that a couple of pins are slightly bent and might be touching other pads. I proceed to straighten them out, partially lifting a pad in the process. Once I get all of that done, I'm thinking there is no way this thing is going to start now. Well it surprised the shit out of me, it booted and all 4 ram chips passed. Maybe today is the day I should go buy a lottery ticket cause I feel pretty damn lucky this actually worked. If I do it again I'll be putting xblast on the tsop.

has anyone had the same issues I have? the DVD drive under standard XBMC and other apps fails to detect DVDs (always shows as empty), this is hinted in Titan's readme on its github, but it's a software problem -- it should be fixable, for example XBMC4Gamers has it fixed, but it can't play media in any way! is there any way we can obtain the same version of the source code that XBMC4Gamers uses and have it in a normal XBMC4Xbox version that can play multimedia? i'm one of the few weirdos that still uses his Xbox to watch movies and shows, cuz it gives an amazingly crisp, bright and clear image over RGB! so this DVD problem is a major bummer that I'd LOVE someone could have a fix for!

Hey guys and gals, so anyways I’m just wondering if the original Xbox can ftp to Linux distros (Ubuntu, steamos, Debian)? I was just wondering because I want to transfer files off my steam deck but idk how to transfer them so I’m just asking how I can transfer files from the deck to the Xbox.

I haven't used my og Xbox for a while I decided I wanted it set up and to play it again did all of that and it goes to boot up gives me a display but shows the contact service center with error code 12. I looked up the code and it points to the dvd drive. I've opened it cleaned it and still no luck. What are my options would a hard mod and no dvd bios be a better fix than replacing the drive? Or would buying a parts machine be better. Thanks Kyran.

I was trying to softmod my xbox by unlocking it using PiPROM and after many attempts I was successful. After I was done checking the drive, I locked the drive again with the same eeprom.bin, then plugged the drive back into the xbox and power cycled the console. I power cylcled the xbox and i get error 6. is there possibly ANY way i could get this drive working again with this xbox?

Recently acquired 3 Xboxes that I have tsop flashed with Cerbios. At first I purchased a cheap sata to IDE adapter and quickly found when I connected it I had no access to the DVD rom. I was also using the 40 wire IDE cable at the time so, I purchased an 80 wire IDE cable hoping it would solve the problem but unfortunately still no DVD rom access. I then purchased the startech adapter believing it would indeed fix the issue but alas, still no DVD rom access. With the startech adapter if I enable the option in the cerbios.ini file for DVD & HDD I get error 13 no mater which UDMA bios I flash and can't even boot into safe mode. So, doing this requires me to remove the drive and connect it to my pc to edit the ini file back to HDD & No DVD. Once I do this I can boot with up to UDMA mode 5 enabled. I was using old laptop sata drives until today when I got an SSD with the startech adapter but it still does the same thing. It also doesn't matter which position I move the jumper to on the adapter. Master and Cable select both do the same thing in all 3 Xboxes. Any ideas?

Well, overclocking has way too many problems to be worth it. You called it @MadMartiganSome are worth it, like the one I have at 827MHZ right now, but I'd rather get good at RAM upgrades and interposer installs. But I would have to do it with a hot air gun for now. I need a reball kit for the interposer and solder balls, I think .78MM leaded. I will get with him for the temps. on both. I promised myself I would do this and the RAM installs, so I'm doing it, come hell or high water. I have a 1GHZ coppermine with 256k of L2 cache. Should be sufficient. It was only 20 bucks. If anybody has suggestions for doing this the first time, I would appreciate it a lot ... I will be ignoring suggestions that say don't do it and you're stupid for trying... You know who you are lol, we'll see when I actually get around to it. I just killed two boards trying to do a stupid ram upgrade. Lol. Wow man.

OK, new modder confused here. I've been spending my time fixing up dead and half dead boxes, and thought I'd see how setting up a new hard drive works with a hardmodded console. I used the OG Xbox Install disc to TSOP to Evox m8+ nodvd, wiped the stock HDD and installed UnleashX and the default apps, and it boots fine. However, now when I swap a different drive to set up (either a 10GB drive from another Xbox, or a WD 80GB drive) the box fails to boot from DVD. I've tried with two different DVD drives, but it's always the same... even the seeking sound the optical drives make are the same (they keep going forever in an identical repeating "pattern" until I switch the console off - no, not impatient, waited for 5-10 minutes). When I switch back to the original HDD, the system boots up fine from it, and also boots from the DVD drive - and the DVD drive sounds "healthy" again compared to previous attempts. I tried powering the bigger new HDD with an external power supply, since I noticed it was pulling more power on the 12V rail (thinking maybe the old PSU is just at its end), but this makes no difference. I've also tried jumpering the drive to cable select and master+slave, but still nothing. The original drive is a Seagate, both replacements were WD. Is there something I've overlooked?

I think this is just a "replace the power supply" issue (DPSN-96DP), but I'd appreciate anyone's insight if they have advice: (Video of issue) https://imgur.com/INZWEUK Summary -- push power, no LED ring lights, X3 mod chip front indicator panel briefly lights up, then turns off. Eject button has same result. Case fan briefly twitches when power/eject is pressed. Continuously holding the power button 'on' keeps the lights on the X3 front panel lit, and the hard drive can be heard spinning up, but then nothing appears and it powers back off after release. Removed the motherboard, examined the traces to see if there was any rot -- looks really, really clean, nothing was visible after several minutes of inspecting. (Shot of a section of board) https://imgur.com/HIuVLGm CPU capacitors look a little sussy and puffed, I should replace, but nothing leaking onto the board. Clock capacitor looks good, too, but I think I should replace that as well. (CPU caps) https://imgur.com/NR7H58m (Clock cap) https://imgur.com/pFDgFPA Probably will get capacitors from Console5, I have enjoyed ordering from them before. Should I just replace the power supply? Is that what this issue looks like? https://imgur.com/FVbfgB6 (Delta power supply) Thanks anyone that feels like replying! This is my daily driver, I'd like to have it back!

I'm attempting to flash the official wireless D-Link firmware to the adapter. I'll look for the firmware now.