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Can someone help me identify this Modchip, and what is that "chip" betwen the wiring. The box is a v1.1

So I was roaming Kijiji in my area (Toronto, Canada), and I saw an ad for an OG Xbox, selling for $15 CAD. The main pic was just the dusty, dirty lid, so I'm not surprised it wasn't quick to sell, but the second pic was the front. I offered him $40 to meet me at a subway station near to him (across town from me) and he agreed. Long story short, it needs all the typical work (clock cap, power rail caps, deep clean and a new hdd), but it's all there and it works. It's a 1.2 with a Samsung DVD, a 300 gig IDE drive, a very old install of Avalaunch, and some screen flicker. Pretty sure the new power rail caps will take care of the screen flicker. It was starting randomly at first, but that stopped after I removed the clock cap and cleaned up all of the spillage. I've ordered the internal parts and I'm really looking forward to working on this. I've never had an X3 system before...it's like answering an ad for "old car" and discovering it's a Porsche. I'd be happy to update this post if anyone's interested!

i opened up my xbox and noticed this modchip and was wondering if it would be causing my issue. it will attempt to power on 3 times and on that third time it will start flashing orange and red.

I just found this on ebay. Looks cheap and I wonder if it will work.

Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Can anyone else confirm this?? I have repaired several 1.4 consoles, but this one is not a 1.4. This console was modded previously according to the v1.5 aladdin mod. It has bios 5713. Yet it comes up as a 1.4. Only Xblast OS shows it as 1.4/1.5.

Hi all, Sorry if this is the wrong section but not sure if this is softmod or tsop so put it here. After having help to update my original xbox (thank you) I have since found the first unit that wife bought me in 2002. I thought it had been softmodded and slayers installed. Today I opened it up as I want to fit a 200gb sata hdd that I have spare and was surprised to see that it has had some kind of chip fitted in the past. It's a lot of years since this was last used and tbh I don't remember having a modchip. It has the stock hard drive and the manufacture date of sept 2002. It has Evox M7 and dash is +3921 if that is of any help. I just need to know if I am safe to carry on and install the 500gb hdd. If anyone can work out what has been done originally I would love to know, from my limited knowledge so far I wondered if it needed a chip fitted temporarily to flash them back then.

Hi all, I bought a "broken: for parts" Xbox. It was in good shape externally and when I opened it, it was a 1.1 and all five power caps were leaking. It did, however, have this X2.2 Pro modchip installed. I figured the problem was just the five leaking caps, so I replaced those with equivalents and assumed I had the problem solved. When I turned it on, I discovered it wouldn't move beyond the "Xecuter config live loading" screen. When I tried turning the chip off via the bank switch, the system would boot as far as the flubber animation before showing error 06. Long story short, I'm pretty sure the mobo is a write-off (clock cap was removed but I'm seeing a lot of old leak damage), so I pulled the chip off in hopes of installing it on a replacement motherboard. I'm not super familiar with Xecuter chips...is this chip salvageable? Do I have enough here to do a pin header install? I have a spare pin header, so that's not a problem. Based on my research, I know there was a second smaller cable that included the ground and D0 wires for that purpose, but I don't have it. (Of note, as you'll see, the bank switch is missing the blue dip switch cover, so I'd be ok doing a full 1mb BIOS flash and not using the switch bank.) Thank you in advance!

Hi all, I've been working on a FRAGing v1.1 Xbox, and while I was bridging the TSOP point on the bottom of the board, I accidentally de-soldered the tiny resistor just north of R7R3 in this picture: https://www.biline.ca/X-Box/10under.jpg. As always, by the time I realized it was gone, I couldn't find it anywhere, either on my iron or on my workbench. Dumb question please...how critical is that resistor? I know there likely aren't any redundant parts, but should I replace it, and is there a replacement part I could order? Thank you in advance for your help!

Hello people. i managed to fix the traces and install the xecuter2 modchip which i had spare. switched it on with the switches in correct position and im getting a bios flash screen. now the funny thing is now. when i switch the chip off via the switch. i fort it would boot into the ms dash board. which it dosent. the console switches on but nothing comes on the screen. so now the flashing. i dont have no blank dvds to install the bios. only way is to ftp into the console. i did try and quickly ftp into it using a normal ethernet cable plugged in to my network splitter but it wont connect. do i need a user name and password. been so many year i cant even remember is this chip working properly well atleast is it supossed to be doing what its doing cheers people

i've seen some bad info out there for noobs trying to mod a xbox for the first time. the 2 main ones are to null or modify your hdd key(without disclosing any of the dangers) instead of just keeping the old hdd as a backup to create another drive if needed and the 2nd one is to pry the gpu heat sink off. please don't do this, especially on a xbox that has sentimental value to u. this is a good way to ruin it. we really need to start being more careful what we tell noobs to do. i know my original xbox has a lot of sentimental value to me because it still has the game saves from where i used to go to lan parties with it back in the mid 2000's. i'd be heart broken if one of these guides caused me to ruin it. many other would probably feel the same way about theirs.

Currently it's the cheapest on eBay, for my location (found some Startech ones, which are generally most suggested online, but they cost 50€ wth). Asking this because last time I tried another adapter (this one), Slayer Evox installer didn't recognize it (showed 0 for all partitions on the main screen, then faked to formating and copying files -very quickly).

I'm getting horrible lag spikes that makes the system unplayable. I bought Mechwarrior. It plays fine off the disc. Zero problems. When I load it onto the HDD it is unplayable. It's the same with any game I load onto the HDD. Here is an example of the booting sequence into Mechwarrior, both with and without lag. Lagging boot: https://streamable.com/yohvt8 Normal boot: https://streamable.com/71a6ne The lag goes on throughout the game, particularly when heavy combat is involved. Halo is even worse. You can see from just the boot logo that the FPS is like 10. Why does this happen? I even noticed that when shutting the system completely off and powering it back on, the green xbox animation will lag at times. Watch the very end where it begins to stutter. Sometimes, however, it doesn't stutter at all. Lagging: https://streamable.com/vdoktf Normal: https://streamable.com/5220rt I read that the green Xbox animation at the very beginning is algorithmically driven (not off HDD or ROM), so if it is lagging what does that say about the xbox? Is it a cpu/gpu thing? After spending a few hundred $ getting this system up and running I couldn't be any more disappointed. Current specs:Xbox 1.62TB Seagate Barracuda: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2RR55Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 StarTech IDE/SATA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 24" 40-pin 80-Wire Ribbon Cable: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274553744014 Things I've tried: New 40 pin cable New HDD New SATA/IDE Adapter Putting old IDE HDD back in via 40 pin able (works with much less lag, but still noticeable) I'm at a loss and any/all help would be most welcome. Thank you, -R

Getting a quiet clicking noise when trying to boot, sound seems to come from the psu.

Someone Please Help Me Use This Tool I've Downloaded Several Others Of This Style But I Don't Know How To Use 20220904_112242.mp4

So I have a question....and it may sound dumb but ill explain and hopefully one of you wonderful lads and gents will have the answer I need.... I had two 1tb 3.5 hdds one got locked to a burned out mobo on a 1.2 xbox... 1.can I format that drive without the hdd key? 2.I don't want the data off of it just want to wipe it. 3.Its a WD Blue series hdd. Hopefully someone can relay some info on this... [Mods feel free to put this in the right forum topic as I wasn't sure where this should go]

So I got my new old xbox yesterday and still have no games for it but somewhere read that it can play audio cd s so I inserted a disc and listened. I accidentally pressed Y and X in a short space of time and it zoomed in that little animation so it was covering entire screen. I did it on my 1.1 xbox so idk if it works on other xboxes (probably yes).

Reposted with pics on Imgur: https://imgur.com/gallery/rH19myY I need help flashing this corrupt Bios chip on my Og Xbox. Unfortunately this is the only way i can reflash it, as i attempted to flash it but forgot to bridge the points now my Og Xbox only works with a modchip. I got around to picking up a programmer TL866II Plus with Xgpro v11.90 Flasher tool. But i keep getting a pin detect error. I first tried it with a new exact replacement chip using a TSOP 40 adaptor. Then ended up losing that chip. And desoldered the one from the motherboard. I also removed the cold solder from the adaptors and added some fresh new high quality solder with flux to make sure that isn’t the problem. I socketed it into the slot and no luck “Pin detect error”. I then ordered another adaptor this time without a socket and i soldered on the bios chip. I also redid the solder joints, as the ones on that adaptor were dull aswell, and no luck. I picked up the correct or the closest settings on the Xgpro v11.90 software. I tried TSOP 40 Hyundai and Hynix HY29F080 with no luck. It yet again gives me a “Pin detect error”. I even tried auto detect and it says chip not supported. On the chip it says Hyundai HY29F080T-90, but i can’t find that exact model number on the menu. Could that be the issue or is it something else. I have no idea as this is my first time using a programmer. And saw a video or two on how to use it.

OK so I just popped open my xbox to try and sort my HDD problem that KaosEngineer is kindly helping me with to find this, see photo, any idea where I can get replacement it's a v1.2 Its freaking me out. Wasn't like that before I'm sure, advise greatly needed.

So had 4 xbox's sat in my room off ebay that I wanted to do ram upgrade on, booted one which greeted me with blue xbox logo and xecutor 2 at the bottom of the screen before loading what seemed be original dash. Opened it up and found a SST49LF002A chip hard wired onto the LPC port using enamled/magnet wire.

Hi guys, first post, so take it easy on me lol Recently Got an OG Xbox, and as I'd had launch day Xbox blow up, I knew about the clock capacitor, (my old xecutor modded Xbox went with a pop adout 15 years ago ) Anyway, I'm rambling... I opened up this one to check/remove the cap, and it had already leaked, the Xbox was working before opened it, but the clock would not hold time.. the board looks pretty bad so I'm wondering if it's worth spending the time getting the new cap and fitting it.. I should also mention, that despite having a soldering iron, I'm a 100% noob... I'm sure I can replace the cap, but honestly, that's about the extent of my ability lol.. attached is a photo of the board, also, would an Xbox boot without the clock cap ? If so, I'll re assemble it and test it before I order the replacement cap.. treated the area with contact cleaner & a little wd40

Hey guys, I've got a 1.2 that I spent the weekend revitalizing with all new fresh capacitors and upgrading the RAM to 128mb. Everything went well. I had Xblast reading all 128mb, and everything was working a treat. That is until I went to pull it apart for final disassembly to clean the case and everything up before putting all back together for the last time. I first removed the SATA/IDE adapter from the HDD, leaving the molex connector in place and holding it by the cables and moved the HDD tray out of the way. It was then, that I somehow managed to let the SATA/IDE adapter dangle enough for it to brush the PSU right along side the big 470uF 250v capacitor without realizing it. And in my excited haste, I had not yet disconnected the power cord from the Xbox... As soon as I saw the bright flash and pop that was the SATA adapter getting completely obliterated, my heart immediately sank. The adapter, of course, is thoroughly destroyed. The logic IC and one of the voltage regulators quite literally exploded. At that point, I knew I'd be extremely lucky if it was the only casualty. On the Xbox itself, it blew the T3.15A on the PSU. I had some spare 3 amp glass slow-blow fuses, so I rigged one up until I get the proper cylindrical fuse to replace it later this week. Surprisingly enough, the PSU still works fine, albeit with a slight discolored battle scar on side of the big capacitor... However the motherboard is a different story. It now 3 boot/FRAGs both with or without the X2.3b lite I've had installed for years present. Thinking I had fried it, not feeling too optimistic about fixing it, I harvested the newly installed RAM, and original RAM but subsequently reinstalled the original, after changing my mind on giving up so quickly. Anyway, I've tried all the troubleshooting methods I could with what tools I have at my disposal, which is not much. All the PSU voltages are good. I've swapped PSUs with another, just in case. One observation I made is that the MCPX X3 gets really hot very quickly, so I'm sort of thinking it's shorted and therefore also toast, and that's what's causing it to FRAG. In any case, I figured, maybe I'd share my story for your entertainment, and maybe even see if any of you had any suggestions on what else I might try to test before I go on the hunt for a replacement board and continue scavenging useful parts from this one.

Someone knows if this PSU will work on a 1.4 console? Mine is faulty and I saw that one for sale in my country (OG Xbox stuff is extremely rare here) Pics from the seller, thanks for your time.

Tried it with 2 sets of component cables and had the same result. It's a 1.6 model and does this with various games, maybe 30 games total I've tried. Sometimes it doesn't do it all for 30min, then it'll flicker constantly for an entire hour. Super frustrating. https://youtu.be/wFh10gwcS6E

I got an og xbox with a toggle switch on the side, one wire to ground and other wire goes under the board near the lpc, I assume it decides whether to boot modchip or embedded bios, can someone confirm? thanks