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Just repaired a 1.6b that had a blown RAM bank 2. This is my first ever 1.6b I've worked on. Usually with FRAO systems there's a good reason for a RAM to die and it's usually a thick layer of once damp dust messing with things. But this time the motherboard was fairly clean. Since this is my first 1.6b I don't have a record of common faults like I do with the others. Do Hynix RAM chips commonly go bad?
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I have been watching YouTube, and I came across this video, and this guy thinks that Microsoft is over their head with Xbox. -
Hello, I have a xbox 1.4 motherboard. Clock cap of course had leaked however console worked fine. I disassembled the xbox to remove the cap and clean the area. I noted before i started that the diodes and resistors just north of the cap had taken the brunt of the leak. with the transistor in the Q7f4 position having its top leg detached from board. and as I said xbox still worked fine. well while cleaning the cap off that transistor fell off. I don't think I have much hope of re soldering it back at my skill level. So to my question, seeing how the xbox still worked with that transistor seemingly detached ( maybe it was still in contact and I couldn't tell?) I was curious is it part of the clock circuit? does it even need to be there if im not replacing the cap? IM trying to find anyone who knows definitely if it needs to be there or not for normal operation minus the clock. trying to find out before I attempt to power the board back up and harm it further. Thank you for your time. picture is not my board but one of the same 1.4 with the resistor im speaking of highlighted so anyone knows what one im talking about. -
Fixing a 1.0 and found this in it. Can't seem to find it on the modchip archive. No markings on the board that I can see.
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Pretty sure everything is ok given it has 15A on the 5V rail line but I want to double check before I commit to it. I've never done a power mod so I wanted some expert input. Would using this ATX PSU be ok to use with an Xbox? Id use an adaptor for my xbox, of course. I have an aftermarket setup so space isn't an issue and this PSU seems pretty top notch but I wanted to check before committing a trade to acquire it. I have heard that using too little power is bad or won't work with a PSU. Is there any truth to that? Thanks for any advice! -
I have a Samsung sdg-605f dvd drive. The thing is that it doesn't work and i think i might have fried the laser but I don't have proof to support this. I don't have the equipment needed to try to test and change the 33 or 88 ohm resistors so this could be the issue but i cannot say for sure. Before i tweaked the pot, the laser would not light up and not spin the disk a lot, as if the dvd tray was empty, but the laser would always move to a specific location near the spindle no matter where it was before startup. Now that i did the tweaking, the laser moves only a slightly bit and it is making a creaking sound and it only moves a couple of millimeters to the back no matter where it is, but it doesn't move any further. Please let me know if this is fixable or it is a lost cause and i need a new laser
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The XBox game Thief Deadly Shadows (Thief 3) has a serious bug. If you select a harder skill setting than 'normal', then when the game performs a load (either loading a save game, or when you reach a load point in the game's levels), then the difficulty would be set back to normal, which removed much of the challenge, as the game's AI was much more alert on higher skill levels. The PC version was fixed by fans, but of course the XBox never received the fix. A few days back, I posted on the Through the Looking Glass forum (https://www.ttlg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152823) hoping for more information (and also hoping that the problem would be a very easy fix, such as just editing .cfg or .ini files), and (brilliantly!) the author of the fix answered, but I'm not able to do anything with the information. So if anyone proficient with XBox programming could look at the reply, and attempt to get the XBox version of the game fixed, then that would be really good. Thief 3 is a great game, but the difficulty level is really nerfed because of this bug, sadly. -
I'm a long time original XBox fan for more than twenty years now (my favourite genre is the first person shooter, for which the XBox was the indisputable king of it's generation), and when I bought my first model I had it chipped at the same time, to play homebrew on it. For years it also doubled as my media player, until high definition files came along that the otherwise superb XBMC was too slow to play. I upgraded the hard drive a couple of times, and it ended up with a 500 GB IDE hard drive full of XBox games, emulators, music videos, etc. The original XBox is a superb emulation centre for 8 and 16 computer/console/arcade games, with quite a few 32 or 64 bit games (such as Nintendo 64 or original PlayStation games) running fine too, though of course the extra hardware resources needed by some 32 or 64 games, and the older age of many emulators for these systems means that many other 32 or 64 bit games have graphical/audio/gameplay glitches, or even won't run at all on the XBox. Anyway, a few weeks back I turned on the XBox, and it had somehow developed a video fault, the screen was now flickering. I found a business (in the UK) that I'd never dealt with before, and they fixed my faulty XBox, and refurbished two other consoles of mine, and their speed, quality of service, and prices are great, and I was wondering if I'm allowed to recommend them on here. What is this forum's policy on business recommendations for repairs and upgrades? I realise that, even though it would no doubt be helpful for some users (assuming the recommendations are genuine of course) then some 'recommendations' might be lies, especially if self-posted by a person/company or just plain scams. So is a one time recommendation by someone for a given company OK, or is it against the rules (especially for a totally new user like me, though I'm a very long term user of Emuxtras (username of Clockface) and came here via: https://www.emuxtras.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=187&t=7878&sid=39ac9891adc0cef4055d8b8382024e22
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Hello everyone, I finished modding my Xbox about 2 months ago and honestly haven’t had the time to sit down and play it. This weekend finally I could and noticed that when I started using it this high pitched coil whine type of noise started emitting from the right side of the console. Link here for a video where you can hear it - https://imgur.com/gallery/xbox-high-pitched-noise-uhg7cir . As I’m writing this it has went away and came back twice. The console is a 1.0 with the Minebea 1.0 original psu. I cleaned everything and the psu looked fine when I had everything out a few months ago. Please note that I have replaced my fans with a noctua on the GPU and nexus on the case, and a new 1tb hard drive so I don’t think it’s the normal noise makers that are making that noise. Any testing I should do to help narrow this down? Console works great though and runs cool. -
Found a good cable at the right price. This is my 1st time doing this so want to ensure I don't get the wrong thing. Can anyone confirm this is the correct cable for the cable upgrade? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285945357382?_skw=40-Pin+80-Wire+Ultra+ATA+2-Drive+Ribbon+Cable&itmmeta=01J8FJNTK17R82D1ZCRYBY15EN&hash=item4293abe446:g:yyEAAOSwn79miQYA&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKm7iQbBnl8fbU52nphsfcwuAH31NaccGcUbV80i4JT902JWYi6f4XgAav7Xybkxh1nxEmx63PsR38SqwGwENGp7DTRE3m4H6f0AhMfeEom2EU0mRVj9TTuwmtUl6uPhmVFuEO51x%2B0sBMynTSTKHBWvl%2BZnkE5B4LTOj9bZj1yh6D17INxfH4%2B1L%2FzOqeL5lXFnpHxCNDJ5%2FJmSQ8cYLaxhS1s0aUcQJ4SXR0CWhj88TrZ%2FSk%2FbFas%2FO8OF%2FJ36KPcBkilHyXkb2%2BXk3Cbv59RMRHmkOumHImHfqEueFkznUw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8qp1_LDZA
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It wasn't booting "for some unknown reason". I managed to fix it by routing a wire to the lclk via. and grounded the top d0. figured I'd share. Sheesh
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anyone know what this once was? There is nothing connected inside.
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I'm having an unlucky day, I have a 1.6 Xbox that's barely been used since new, a crystal box, It's just had a softmod on it although I'd just ordered a mod chip that I could install on it but it hasn't arrived yet. Either way, I went to fire it up today and completely dead, press eject or power and nothing, doesn't try to come on at all as if there is no power going to it. I fired it up last week when I pulled it out of storage and it worked fine. So, it's looking like potentially the power suplly has failed. In my collection of goodies I found an Xbox power supply, it's brand new never used in box. Here are some photos of it. It has both types of power connector. A switch to go between 120 and 240 volts, I'd need the 240. Do you think this would be fine to use on a 1.6 XBox for an Australian 240v Xbox?
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Not the XBOX logo font, but the one used for "NOT FOR RESALE", "Version 2.5" etc... Anyone out there know which font it is? Thanks in advance to any of you legends out there that come up with the correct answer
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See pics, I know it’s a remote on and off mod but is not the usual Xerc. I have the install down EXCEPT for the 2 power cables (purple and white)… looking for the source so I can work out where those two go!!
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Hi, Regarding the game Galleon. I see on the CCI compatibility list the loading times are slow for this game when in CCI format, I then noticed it being a split ISO format on download site. And don't understand why the ISO's (combined) size is about 3.5GB, compared to a HDD rip being only about 343MB. There's probably a good reason for Galleon to be in ISO format rather than HDD rip, but I'd also rather save the space on the Xbox hard drive and have it as a HDD rip unless there's a reason not to do it this way? This goes for the ISO games, many are larger than when extract as HDD rip? -
Currently it's the cheapest on eBay, for my location (found some Startech ones, which are generally most suggested online, but they cost 50€ wth). Asking this because last time I tried another adapter (this one), Slayer Evox installer didn't recognize it (showed 0 for all partitions on the main screen, then faked to formating and copying files -very quickly).
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hi to all, sorry for my bad english, i hope will be enough correct to let you understand me i'm very curious to read al you post, it will be very interesting!
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Is it possible to save this xbox? It's 1.0, fully recapped, and recently every now and then this Xbox goes into that overheating mode, with the orange light, and no image, and stays like that until it turns off. The panel buttons do nothing during this. But it's not overheating, because on all dashboards, it stays between 44C and 50C (I'm using the Nemesis Dual Fan Kit). I imagine it's the Adm1032 Temperature Ic Fail... I've already tried cleaning the contacts with isopropyl alcohol to see if it solves it, but nothing. Is there a BIOS that ignores this sensor, or something in software? Or anything else I can do?
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Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi all, first and foremost, as the season approaches I want to wish everyone a happy holidays! I bought a "for repair" 1.1 unit that needed a LOT of work. (This is a different unit than the Sharp TSOP unit from my other repair post.) Luckily I was able to repair everything except the Philips DVD drive. It was relatively clean - I cleaned the lens, replaced the drive belt and cleaned up a bit of corrosion on the board, but it's still dodgy. Question, can this Philips drive be saved? On startup there is a high-pitched whine from inside the dvd drive, and when I push the eject button, it wants to open and close, but it will only travel about an inch or so and stick, then if I keep pushing the button it will eventually open fully but refuse to close again. Is this a control board issue, or a motor issue? I rarely encounter DVD problems, so this is a new one for me. Thanks all!
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Reposted with pics on Imgur: https://imgur.com/gallery/rH19myY I need help flashing this corrupt Bios chip on my Og Xbox. Unfortunately this is the only way i can reflash it, as i attempted to flash it but forgot to bridge the points now my Og Xbox only works with a modchip. I got around to picking up a programmer TL866II Plus with Xgpro v11.90 Flasher tool. But i keep getting a pin detect error. I first tried it with a new exact replacement chip using a TSOP 40 adaptor. Then ended up losing that chip. And desoldered the one from the motherboard. I also removed the cold solder from the adaptors and added some fresh new high quality solder with flux to make sure that isn’t the problem. I socketed it into the slot and no luck “Pin detect error”. I then ordered another adaptor this time without a socket and i soldered on the bios chip. I also redid the solder joints, as the ones on that adaptor were dull aswell, and no luck. I picked up the correct or the closest settings on the Xgpro v11.90 software. I tried TSOP 40 Hyundai and Hynix HY29F080 with no luck. It yet again gives me a “Pin detect error”. I even tried auto detect and it says chip not supported. On the chip it says Hyundai HY29F080T-90, but i can’t find that exact model number on the menu. Could that be the issue or is it something else. I have no idea as this is my first time using a programmer. And saw a video or two on how to use it. -
Can someone help me identify this Modchip, and what is that "chip" betwen the wiring. The box is a v1.1
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So I was roaming Kijiji in my area (Toronto, Canada), and I saw an ad for an OG Xbox, selling for $15 CAD. The main pic was just the dusty, dirty lid, so I'm not surprised it wasn't quick to sell, but the second pic was the front. I offered him $40 to meet me at a subway station near to him (across town from me) and he agreed. Long story short, it needs all the typical work (clock cap, power rail caps, deep clean and a new hdd), but it's all there and it works. It's a 1.2 with a Samsung DVD, a 300 gig IDE drive, a very old install of Avalaunch, and some screen flicker. Pretty sure the new power rail caps will take care of the screen flicker. It was starting randomly at first, but that stopped after I removed the clock cap and cleaned up all of the spillage. I've ordered the internal parts and I'm really looking forward to working on this. I've never had an X3 system before...it's like answering an ad for "old car" and discovering it's a Porsche. I'd be happy to update this post if anyone's interested!
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i opened up my xbox and noticed this modchip and was wondering if it would be causing my issue. it will attempt to power on 3 times and on that third time it will start flashing orange and red.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48