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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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I need some help repairing my original Xbox. I got an error 07 and got a new hard drive as I found this mod chip attached and was following some guides. I burnt a disk with Hexen and tried to run it but I still get a 07. I'm unsure what this mod chip actually is and can't find a solution to get my Xbox fixed. Any help whatsoever would be appreciated.
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I was playing with a different 007 Agent Under Fire game save hack and while flashing a new BIOS on a version 1.0 Xbox I flashed a 256k BIOS(STUPID I know). Yep it was FRAGing afterwards now you can either fit a mod chip and be done with it or do a 3 wire flash recovery by following the instructions that can be found by working the Google on the interweb. The instructions say 1 wire soldered to ground and the other 2 get soldered to points on the bottom of the mother board(pain in the butt as you now have to remove the PCB again), Me been lazy and not wanting to remove the PCB again found an easy way to do the 3 wire trick. {pic 1} You need a test lead with alligator clips both ends and a pin. {pic 2} Clip the pin in one end and the other on the metal shield(you did leave the metal shield in didn't you)and the point of the pin is gently held on pin 1 and 2 of the TSOP chip. {pic 3} Power on the Xbox and if all goes well your Xbox boots. Remove the pin that's shorting the 2 pins to ground. Now flash the correct 1024k (1 meg) BIOS. If you don't like the idea of shorting the pins on the TSOP IC the points in the pic below show the same points on the top of the PCB and the bottom of the PCB. {pic 4} 1 2 3 4 Inside the box on lower right of pic 4 are the same points as in pic 1 On side note I did try a mod chip and with some BIOS's the Xbox booted but with no video out but the Xbox was still showing on my home network and I was still able to network in to the box. SS Dave Those who can hard-mod, Those who can’t soft-mod. Ps If you like it don't forget to say thanks and please give me any feedback good or bad!
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Hi. I've replaced the laser and assembly motor for my TGM600 DVD drive. At first the drive wouldn't eject, but I washed the belt with dish soap and water, and it ejected. I was able to get the drive to read a disk the first time, but I haven't been able to get it to read since. Sometimes the drive will try and open but stops before it comes out. I purchased a replacement belt from Amazon, but they were a bit too small, so I put the old one back on after cleaning it again. Any ideas what I should look I to next?
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so got my uncle's xbox he said it does'nt work so I opened it up cleaned it then tried to turn it on. at first it booted og xbox boot animation with evox then shuts down, after which it tries to start up again maybe around 3x but at the end the Led would blink like crazy the powers off completely so how can I fix this.
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Hi everyone, I am new here and fairly new to console repair and modding and trying to get in some practice. I recently picked up an OG Xbox with a bad DVD drive. I also bought a different drive to attempt to repair. The drive that came in the Xbox is a Samsung. It is the model without adjustable pots and the laser seems to be dead since it just will not read discs. It does not give any errors, opens and closes fine, disc spins, but it never reads. I am fairly certain the laser has failed and it's not worth saving(though if I'm wrong, please tell me). The other drive, I think might be salvageable. When it is hooked up, I get an error message on the screen telling me to contact Microsoft for repair. The drive does open when the system is turned on and it turns on when it is plugged in with the drive attached. The thing that caught my attention is, whenever I press the eject button, it causes the system to shut off. There is no noise or anything, it just turns off and I can turn it back on right away. This does not happen with the other drive, so I suspect it is the drive and not the eject button itself. I do plan to recap the board this weekend, but wondering what else I should check? Any advice is welcome and thanks for reading. I look forward to getting more involved with this community in the future as I gain more experience.
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The once king of modchips that circles around still to this day with 'legendary' status and of course it's sought after front faceplates and other accessories. Unfortunately somewhat prone to miss-handling, reverse pin header accidents and cpld failure meant people have been left with the Xecuter kit, faceplates and such, but with a blown chip. This sucks. So alas, I had two blown purples myself, acquired in non-functional state that came in with Xbox's. Now after building the new R3dux X3 replacement, I thought lets see what we can do with these. This tutorial seeks to help those with the time, tools and patience to bring their Xecuter 3 setup back from the dead. -- Usual obligatory: If you blow yourself up and it doesn't work or whatever transpires therein, it's at your own risk! -- ***Tutorial difficulty rating: at least 3.75 out of 5 chainsaw rating!*** Tools. Decent temp controlled soldering iron with changeable tips (goes without saying here, your gonna need an asian sized winkle for this job!) BGA flux - something like RMA-218 Good solder, not naff stuff - something like 63/37 rosin activated leaded. Temp/Flow controlled Hot Air station - doesn't have to be some arty farty high end bumph. Preferable silicone mat for above so your desk doesn't RIP. Magnification of some sort - if you have eye's like me & Mr Magoo then some scope would be great. Solder braid - 1.6mm wide is fine. Tweezers - point tip/fine/stainless. Some stranded fine AWG wire - we want just the tiny strands. IPA/cotton buds - cleanup. Replacement chip: Lattice LC4256V - usual sources. JTAG programmer suitable for Lattice 4000 series. Some sodding peace & quiet! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PART 1 Right enough faff, lets see what's up with the damn thing. Usual scenario ... with it setup/installed as per Xecuter guide, we don't get the correct operation upon starting the Xbox power button with a 'quick press'. Either continual fragging, no matter what switch position, switch unplugged, nor pressing eject & power (backup). Switch light either just staying red, some times blue, but chip itself won't 'hot swap' to flash either and tried the hotswap method to use the X3erase.xbe. Still nothing. Zip, nothing working. We've exhausted all those guides.... In the first case then, we will give it a visual under magnification for any damages that may be spotted by chance (stray previous solder blob/wire generally anything). Nope nothing, well lets give it a clean & IPA wash and fire up the soldering iron. Initially I started to remove and replace most of the small SMD parts for higher quality new parts, like better ESD 10K resistors, filtered 0ohm jumper, new double mosfets etc as I have them on hand for building new chips. Simple answer here was, that none of this worked or improved things on test. So also then removed the switch out of the way and fitted a new eeprom too. Same again - nothing helped. I'd changed virtually everything including the mosfets as they control D0 etc. I'm purely adding this here just for info. Well okay, maybe if we can connect the X3 chip to ispLever lattice suite we'll see if we can get any info. To do this we need to get the 4 JTAG points to the Lattice chip. Xecuter had pads made on the PCB design for programming, you will see them around the chip. Match them up off the chip PDF or redux repo. My programmer is setup for the redux Xecuter 3, so it connects to the 4 unused pins inside the LCD connector. So I needed to solder those JTAG pads to the 4 LCD connector pins. This is where I started to solder the wires to the LCD connector. Now I'd done this in the anticipation I'd later be removing the CPLD chip, you on the other hand can just solder 4 wires to the pads later on and skip this above process if you wish. You will notice since I removed the large flash protect switch, I was able to utilise the large vias which were close to the other JTAG pads. (I cut the protect trace by the hole) Then brought them through across the back within kapton tape laid down first and over the front LCD pads to avoid possible shorts. Then covered again in kapton for protection. Now we can connect this sucker up to ispLever... -
Greetings all. I have a 1.3 board (2003) China moddel. It's nearly perfect, and it dawned on me today that nothing lasts forever. What are the main functions that go wrong? Can someone list some components I can purchase now that are still available to be able to fix the problems I may have in later life? I can rate my knollage as semi-skilled but don't really have the necessary expensive equipment to say I'm an expert.
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It wasn't booting "for some unknown reason". I managed to fix it by routing a wire to the lclk via. and grounded the top d0. figured I'd share. Sheesh
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Hello, I'm pretty new to the Xbox scene, so I would like some help one this issue. It has been bugging me so much because no matter what I changed it still froze. I'm Running the lastest Cerbios 1024kb BIOS UDMA 2 Mode, and removed the clock capacitor. I first was trying with a cheap IDE to Sata adapter with the stock 40 wire cable. Still freezing. So I changed it to an 80 wire Manhattan brand cable, and it still froze. I checked if it was an overheating problem but it isn't, I just repasted the CPU and GPU, and the max temps showed on both UnleashX and XBMC4Gamers is 55°C CPU, and 50°C for the other probe near the MCPX. 50°CPU and 45°MB when I bumped up the fan speed to 50% on the cerbios.ini. Lastly the freezing in-game appears to be random, sometimes it takes about 30 minutes playing or idle, like today just 5 minutes. And you can also leave the xbox idle on UnleashX for like an hour and a half and you will return to a frozen xbox. I also read on another topic it could be a bad MCPX, or maybe a bad PSU, but I don't know. maybe you guys could shed some light on my problem. Thank you!!! -
I was given Two OG XBOX PSUs but both have 2 missing components One PSU is Delta and belongs to OG Xbox 1.4 revision One PSU is Delta and belongs to OG Xbox 1.6 revision Fuse and varistor are missing in the PSUs, parts are not in the board, someone removed them. i think the owners connected them to 220v (here we have 220v , not 110v in the wall plug) and that caused the fuse to blow up, and varistor to blow up. Just like in the Wii power brick when connected to 220v So i spent some hours trying to figure out what the original components were for those PSUs, searching on forums and i was not able to find the complete info This is what i found online for each OG xbox model, in terms of original components it came with: OG Xbox 1.4 Power supply Varistor= Unknown? I was not able to find information online about this varistor. Fuse: 250v 3.15A (8.35x7.7mm) - OG Xbox 1.6 Power supply varistor: TVR 20241X Fuse : 250v 4A 20mm long - Maybe someone here on reddit knows more about these missing components so Here are my questions for OG Xbox 1.6 revision: The FUSE for OG xbox 1.6 revision, the PCB has printed "250v 4 Amps", and By looking at pictures on ebay i see they originally used a normal Glass Fuse 20mm long, but my question is: DOES IT NEED TO BE A FAST BLOW FUSE? OR SLOW BLOW FUSE? The VARISTOR for OG xbox 1.6 revision is TVR 20241X, but here that part is hard to find, can i use any of these as replacement? S20K150 or 20N241K or 20D241K ? (datasheets images are below) Here are my questions for OG Xbox 1.4 revision: The FUSE for the OG xbox 1.4 revision, the PCB has printed "250v 3.15 Amps", and by looking at pictures on ebay i see they originally used a circle encapsulated in plastic fuse, but again my question is: DOES IT NEED TO BE A FAST BLOW FUSE? OR SLOW BLOW FUSE? The VARISTOR for OG xbox 1.4 revision is UNKNOWN, I was not able to find online what type of varistor they used in that PSU, can i use the same varistor as in the 1.6 revision? here are images of the 1.4 fuse, along with what i was able to find available where i live for the 1.6 revision varistor, I hope someone can help me find the correct replacements -
Hello, my name is Kris and I wrote the Xbox repair guide 2.1 around 17 years ago. I have thought about updating it (my grammar was atrocious!) and wanted to get feedback from OG Xbox fans. On top of the grammar, I wanted to reshoot the videos and pictures to today's standards. I also saw the suggestion for a PDF version, so that's gonna go on the list. Any other suggestions? There's a lot I have missed since getting out of gaming so any help would be appreciated.
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I recently acquired this Xbox with a 1.0 board and wanted to try and repair it. After opening it up and cleaning it, I noticed the clock cap hanging on by a thread so I plucked that off. I haven't done anything else to the console and the previous owner doesn't know if it was soft or hard modded. I still get the same error from when I first got it which is described in the title. Below I will attach some photos to show off the condition of the motherboard. Thanks in advance for the help! -
I am having some issues with a system I am working on hardmodding, and I'd like to save the system if possible. The issue: I have a 1.0 OG Xbox console where the controllers do not work History of this project: This console started off as a non-working console on Ebay that had never been opened. It had hard drive issues so would give an error code 8 on boot. I was able to install an aladdin mod chip, and throw in a new formatted drive an boot into xblast and gentoox to try to flash cerbios. Xblast did not recognize the mod chip, so I tried gentoox also. My controllers do not work in either dashboard. I have an original controller from ebay that was advertised as working, as well as a cheap 3rd party controller from amazon. I do not have another Xbox, so its possible neither controller works. What I have tried so far: All 4 controller ports (If that even works in those dashboards) re capping the motherboard replacing the daughter board (1.0) and controller ports checking traces for continuity near the clock capacitor (there was a bit of leakage but not really any damage), near the controller headers, and general spot checks My question is, what would you try next? I would really like to save this console, but I am running out of ideas on how to repair it. Any advice/insight/knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
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Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Ok hi from Finland. I'm repairing and modding a Xbox og 1.6 with this samsung psu. The 3.3v and 5v stand-by voltages come and go, i think there is something to do with heat because it worked for a while when i resoldered almost every single solderjoint on the board. I have replaced the 2 big caps and that did fix the original issue of completely dead. I have replaced all the bigger caps on the mobo. Mobo works just fine when the psu gives the power needed. Can someone point me in the right direction? I have been stuck with this for over a month and i'm doing this free for my friend. EDIT: Just tried to measure the psu once again and had no 5v. Then i plugged mobo connector back in and plugged ac plug back on and the f*cking thing works again.
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One of my complete in box consoles has polystyrene which has snapped at the weakest point of the X. Reproduction polys do not seem to be available. There is an Etsy seller, but he is not responsive. Has anyone had any luck using glue? I had thought that a glue that wouldn’t melt the polystyrene might be worth a shot, like a PVA wood glue. Or if there are other methods that may have been successful?
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Hey guys, so anyways I have an original Xbox gamester arcade stick that has stucky buttons, how do i make them not sticky so they function better?
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Is this repairable, looking to rebuild LPC and install an Aladdin on this 1.6 with a beaten up LPC looks like a mod has been removed previously
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From finland, with xbox original with bad psu.
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Is there an OG XBOX fault tree / repair guide out there somewhere? I know its hard or near impossible to record or prep every possible scenario, but Going through this XBOX repair of mine I've found a lot of threads, youtube videos, and suggestions from you amazing folks, but nothing comprehensive on the repair side except an electrician who does some otherworldly stuff trying to determine the fault with a power supply. I know about the XBOX repair guide, but that doesn't have a fault tree like I envision. Not saying a fault tree doesn't exist, just that I haven't come across one. Since I'm trying to track down the Gremlin in my own XBOX and currently the Gremlin is winning, I thought through the process I would document what was done, and add in what could have been done so that it can be a resource for others, especially those new to the community, should -they suffer the same fate. Again if one exists I don't want to re-create the wheel. My XBOX knowledge is banal, so I would be relying on this community to keep me on the correct path, but I'd be willing to organize the thing if you all think it would be a worthwhile endeavor. For example, first thing would be power on Y/N. If No, swap power cords. -> No change ->check fuse functionality-> check plug solder joints. I'll attach a pic of a concept I quickly jotted down probably about a 10% complete, haven't thought it through too much or put any time into it since I don't know if its even needed -- and definitely not saying its the right way or the steps are even in order, but its a concept. On the left side is a descriptive fault check pathway, on the right is the traditional fault tree. Let me know if you think something like this would be value added.
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Hi, i'm new to the scene and got my first chipped box a few weeks ago. Because i'm interested in tinkering around it happend that my Flashchip somehow got corrupted in the process of trying out another BIOS ... i'm kinda stuck now and absolutely want to recover from this situation by myself, so there have a few ideas risen and i may ask more veteran people about them: Ideas: 1. Boot the XBox of a friend of mine, remove the Flash with power on and flash mine. Did this years ago regulary on PC Mainboards but also know that these devices aren't built for hotswapping them and so i'm a little bit afraid of killing the circuitry with voltage spikes. 2. Softmod the Box and Flash the Modchip then. Question 1: Possible in general? Question 2: Is it possible to Softmod "externally" on a PC. I have a eeprom backup of my box and the key isn't nulled. 3. Invest a few bucks and buy a USB Flasher which is compatible with PLCC32 chips - mine is a SST 49lf020a. Question: Can i use other Chips with similar specification too? I'm thinking of ordering a SST 39SF02070-4C-N which has very similar specifications compared to the original one, which is no longer produced or available. Just a sidenote: The Modchip i use is a Alladin XT Thanks, Egon
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I have an unmodded 1.4 Xbox with a Samsung SDG-605B drive that won't read discs. The drive sounds like it's trying to read a disc, but then gets kicked out to the Xbox menu. I've tried all the usual things: cleaning the laser, greasing the rails/gears, adjusting the pots (anywhere from +10% to -20% of the original resistance) with no luck. Determined to get this fixed, I ordered a few replacement lasers from: https://alltroniccomputer.com.sg/products/cd-dvd-xbox-optical-pickup-sohd16-soh-d16-xbox360 My original laser pickup is SOH-DR16S, but it should be interchangeable with this one-- SOH-D16. I ordered 2 just to be sure and neither one of them worked. And yes I desoldered the anti-static blob and played with the pots. I read on another thread that the SDG-605F resistor arrays NR601 - NR606 can commonly fail. I checked the analogous resistors on the SDG-605B but they seem to measure the correct resistances. Lastly, I swapped DVD drives with a working Xbox and sure enough the working Xbox won't read discs, while the broken Xbox is fixed. So I'm pretty sure the problem is isolated to the DVD drive. There is such a scarcity of information on this drive on the internet and this forum seems to be the best resource. Any ideas on what it could be/what I could do next?
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Hello everyone, this is my first post in this forum and glad to join this group. I got one OG XBOX and had DVD issue, need someone to help me how to fixed. The problem is when I press XBOX console DVD eject button, the tray will open and eject DVD disc, but when I press again. (make DVD to read), the tray will open again and eject DVD disc, that means this console can not read disc, DVD drive is keep eject. I followed youtube clip to tear-down DVD drive and try to maintain & clean all parts, eventually, I found the root cause, when DVD drive tray insert, DVD tray is no lift to correct location, so drive is no detect. But I ready clean all parts, this issue can not be solve. How to repair or need to check other parts? thanks a lot
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Opened up the Xbox to fix some trace corrosion. When I put everything back in and booted up, none of my controllers were working. Iv double checked the daughter board several times. Everything is plugged in correctly. On boot up it launches the clock and none of my controllers work in any of the slots. I found out I was atleast getting power through the controller port because when I plugged in my Wingman XB2 it lights up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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The X3 on top works perfectly. The one on the bottom gets smoking hot and will not boot. I am guessing there is a short to ground but not sure what to check. Any ideas? What typically fails on these?
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48