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I have a 1.0 Xbox I got from Goodwill online. It smells like a smoker crawled inside it and died, and I ended up accidentally tearing off the alt d0 pad , but got someone to repair it. However, it still does not boot, as it FRAGs instead. Can't figure out what is wrong - tons of pictures attached below. Things I've tried: Known-good PSU Booting WITH modchip + grounded d0 Booting without modchip or grounded D0 Swapping capacitors with good capacitors from a 1.1 Swapping the TSOP for one from a 1.1 Cleaning the board with IPA (multiple times) If any closer pictures are needed of any part, tell me.

As it says in the title.

My OG Xbox started to Frag after a recap using the Console 5 kits. The PSU has been successfully recapped, mod chip and the extra ram chips work as i did that before the recap, clock cap area is fine, i removed that cap quite a while ago and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Every cap is in the right place and in the right orientation. But i did install C3B1 near the AV port, the 100uf cap the wrong away around the first time. I fixed that mistake, powered it on again but i get a Frag. What could be the problem? I reflowed the solder many times, and can’t find shorts either. Images: https://imgur.com/gallery/WIgbUQI

so got my uncle's xbox he said it does'nt work so I opened it up cleaned it then tried to turn it on. at first it booted og xbox boot animation with evox then shuts down, after which it tries to start up again maybe around 3x but at the end the Led would blink like crazy the powers off completely so how can I fix this.

Thank you in advance for any and all help provided, I can't seem to make the MS Dash boot via the .xbe I am trying to launch if from C:/MS Dashboard/default.xbe I upgraded the HDD and transferred files back but not sure why it isn't booting anymore!? Could file be corrupted? Can it be repaired? XBOX v1.0 X3 Chip/X3 Bios UnleashX Dash

So I'm repairing my motherboard after the dvd drive kept ejecting. Unfortunately my mb is a victim of that super capacitor. I removed and cleaned the board however the nearest transistor and resistor to the right corroded off. I managed to solder the transistor back on but I can't find the resistor. Anyone know what the value of that resistor? I tested the traces, so all of that looks good, so I'm guessing that resistor is the trouble maker.

After doing the trace repair (I used this video as an example) my Xbox powers on automatically but at least the random shutdown issues appear to be fixed. I can't seem to open the disc drive unless I press both power and the disc drive buttons. I notice the J2 trace seems to be causing it as I removed that one trace wire in troubleshooting. Nothing appears to be shorting. I can provide pictures once I'm done formatting/setting up the HDD I just put in.

I was given a 1.6 for free, soft modded it no problem - tried to put a shortcut in C to tell it to boot into XBMC4Gamers which I had installed in E: and something went wrong. Wouldn't boot into XBMC or the dashboard any more. No problem I think, I'll connected to FATXplorer on my PC. No dice - the drive is locked. So I boot up the xbox and try to hotswap it to a IDE/USB adapter to try and fix the bad dashboard, manage to get xboxhdm23usb to detect it, but it still said it was locked. Assumed i hadn't been quick enough with the hotswap. Try again and end up damaging one of the HDD pins (thank you whoever made this shitty adapter for putting it in a plastic housing and making it impossible to insert drives quickly). So now the xbox won't boot, the drive is locked, as well as damaged. Easier to just harvest it for spares now? It's a shame as it's a really clean 1.6 (that was the other thing, the next step would've been to TSOP it and boot into Hexen, but I haven't got a chip lying around and wouldn't trust my soldering skills anyway). Any thoughts on fixing this? P.S I tried to use Halo 2 to update the dashboard and fix it but it was already on the latest dashboard so it didn't work.

Hey all. Sorry if this has been posted, but I searched and couldn't really find anything. I have a 1.0 Xbox that was handed to me by a friend. He said he couldn't remember much about it, but that him and his kid tried to mod it a long time ago, and now it isn't working. Upon opening it, I found a pin header, no modchip, tsop points soldered, and the underside D0 pad ripped off. When I try to start the xbox, it cycles power 3 times then frags out. I'm assuming this is due mainly to the ripped D0 trace. I've tried repairing the trace, and bridging the two pads connected by the green line, but I can't seem to get the solder to stick. Is there any other way to repair this, or is this the only way? Relatively new to xbox modding so any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!

Hello, my name is Kris and I wrote the Xbox repair guide 2.1 around 17 years ago. I have thought about updating it (my grammar was atrocious!) and wanted to get feedback from OG Xbox fans. On top of the grammar, I wanted to reshoot the videos and pictures to today's standards. I also saw the suggestion for a PDF version, so that's gonna go on the list. Any other suggestions? There's a lot I have missed since getting out of gaming so any help would be appreciated.

Hi! Couple of days ago I decided to try repair my xbox which has been sitting on my shelf for at least 15 years after dying suddenly. I opened up a thread on reddit here, and chatted with KaosEngineeer over there. To sum up the current situation: -The xbox is unresponsive when pressing eject and power button, no sign of life. Back in the days it was repaired under warranty (substitution of the PSU) and then repaired and modded with Aladdin and Evo X. -Opening it up I noticed that the clock capacitor had leaked, but seemingly not caused any corrosion. I removed the cap and cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol. - I tried checking the PSU and it seems to work, giving out 3.3 Volts on the standby contact (brown in my case). I tried short circuiting the standby with the PowON (white) contact by using a piece of wire metal, and I verified that the lines (orange, red and yellow) are more or less in line with the pinout (instead of being 5 Volts there are 5.27 Volts and instead of 12 Volts there are 10.73 Volts). - I checked both visually and with a multimeter that the 4 traces under the motherboard are uninterrupted. In particular, looking at this image: There is continuity between the cyan and violet pins on the PIC chip and the cyan and violet contact in the bottom of the image. The 4 resistances in the same image seem to work fine, with a value of about 10 kOhm each. -I checked that the front panel eject and power button work by verifying that, when pressed, they connect to ground the red and blue traces next to the 10kOhm signal resistances. -Now, the stangest thing: if I give power, the brown contact is at 3.3 volts (verified while the psu is attached to the motherboard by inserting the multimeter probe in the top space between the plastic plug and the brown wire), but for some reason the PIC pins that should have the same voltage when the console is plugged (before and after pressing the eject and power button) remain at 0 Volt no matter if I press the front panel buttons or not and no matter if I choose a different point for ground ( I tried using all the black cables and the RF cage). So, basically I'm stuck. Any ideas? Thank you for help

Hello everyone, I am writing this today to see if anyone would potentially know what the issue is with my Xbox's dvd drive. A little backstory. I got an unopened 1.6 many months ago. The console would give the lovely 07 error, so I figured the hard drive was the problem. I swapped out the hard drive with a known good working hard drive, and chipped the console, and would still get the 07 error. In my quest to repair the xbox, I noticed that the green light was constantly flashing whenever I turned the console on. I swapped out the disc drive and all of the console's problems went away. That brings me to my issue. I currently have a Samsung SDG-605F that stops the console from detecting the hard drive whenever its IDE cable is connected. If I connect only the power cable, the console will open and close the console no problem. When I then connect the IDE cable, the console flashes green constantly and the drive will not respond to the eject button being pressed. I've taken a look at the drive's motherboard and there is nothing that stands out as wrong. My thoughts are that the firmware has gotten partially corrupted, the dram chip on the drive's motherboard is dead, or there are issues with the MediaTek controller on the drive's motherboard. I'm not sure what the issue is. I am hoping that someone here knows what the issue is and what I would need to do to fix it. Thank you for reading through all of this. DobaMuffin

Hi everyone! I have a 1.4 with trace issues, upon plugging in the power it starts automatically and when it's off, will occasionally boot at random. I managed to repair one trace as a preventative but not the 3 needed to ensure it's not an issue anymore, I found them too hard to work on https://imgur.com/gallery/ExATwa6 (not my pictures, just as an example!) I did the equivalent of the white wire and blue, is there another place to solder the other green/purple equivalent connections? It would be on the other side of the board I assume.

I have two OG XBOX consoles and I'd like to get them up and running again if possible. One unit powers on but shows an error 7 and the other powers on and reaches the dashboard but will not read any disc I put into the drive(There is also no message about not being able to read the disc either). What steps should I take to get started with a repair? Is either unit a lost cause? I know I'm probably leaving out important info but hopefully this can get me going.

For people that want more info http://www.mediafire.com/file/as3fd031ru9c3f2/XBoxRepairGuide21.exe/file

Hi all, just wanted to start a thread regarding my Crystal Xbox Original as its modded with Evox chip and only loads the Evox boot when the chip is enabled and I also press the LED pins with my finger (very odd, no?) I've included an image to show what I mean. The chipped Evox works in this case but wondered if there's anmything I should do? I'm also considering selling it once working. Thanks and cheers for the advice. GamerID80 - Also on the Facebook group.

Hi, I have been given two Xbox consoles, one to repair (and I may get to keep the other), both new to me and have been in storage for years so owner is unsure of details. Both hard modded. One works fine, the other after fixing an overheating issue now works to turn on intermittently using the power button. Eject seems to work OK. The hard mod requires the use of the power button, it will work after 5 or so minutes of fiddling. Because I am in a unique situation I am looking for advice that I can't search in another category. I have been asked to get photos and saved games off the non working box. My soldering skills are limited and kynar wire will cost me $20 here in Australia so I'm hoping there might be another fix. Given both boxes are hard modded is there a way to unlock the drive in the non working box and use it in the working one? I have been told that a straight swap didn't work which is why it's been given to me to find a fix. I've read about nulling the HDD and eeprom but all info seems to be based on a softmod. I have contemplated several options but not sure what will be simplest, lowest risk etc. Cloning - can I clone a drive from one box and use the data in another? Swap - Is this possible? Do I need to null the HDD and eeprom on both boxes? Can I look up the eeprom code on the working box and change the HDD code to match? FTP, can I simply FTP the data from the non working box and then push it to the other box? (Keeping in mind by non-working I mean it takes 5 minutes to get the power button to boot into the hard mod. Finally a hardware fix. As I said my soldering skills are limited so I'm worried about this proper fix for now (though it may be easiest and will result in two working boxes). Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

So here's my situation, My 1.6 burned out about two months ago now. Trusty system, but now it's doing the on/off three times frag thing. For 10 bucks I bought a 1.0 Xbox. It however, didn't have a hard drive in it. Error 7. The man gave me back my money and let me keep the Xbox because he didn't know it was lacking a hard drive. So, I have these two boxes. My 1.6 has an 80 gig drive. I received in the mail an Aladdin XT Plus 2. What can I use this chip for to get either of these boxes running? Can I simply plug the Aladdin chip onto the 1.0 board? Modding the 1.6 is a bit ridiculous, and I am not sure if the chip will repair the system anyway. I can't find any info on using the Aladdin chip on a 1.0 board, but with that unit NOT having a hard drive I cannot tsop flash it, so if I can boot it via the Aladdin chip and the then set it up I am PERFECTLY FINE with that as a solution. Looking for as little hogwash as possible. Thanks for your thoughts.

Hi people, i bought an softmoded OG Xbox a couple of months ago with an 80GB Ide hard drive. I wasn't able to use it because i needed to get an Voltage converter (v220 to v110, 300W) and i wasn't able to test it untill now. During that time i replaced the thermal paste following some tutorials and cleaned the upper case. Now that i have the converter the console won't turn on. It doesn't make any noise. I checked the capacitors and all of them seem to be alright (Flat on the top and no leaking) and i tried with a different power cable and nothing. Thanks for your time. Here are some pics of the console. https://imgur.com/a/3XkDNpe https://imgur.com/a/h9GBXQS

´hello guys, nice to meet you all, i recently got a modded xbox and i got coinops8 running on it, i played some good ol banjo kazooie before moving onto the main game i bought the system for, jet set radio, after ftping everything it just boots up into the sega logo and freezes, any help would be appreciated as i am a complete noob in this, i deleted the stuff in the x y and z partition and it semed to advance maybe a second more before freezing again, any help?

Ok I one of my xboxes just stopped working. I started desolder the pin header and my vellman vacuum pump ruined a few traces. So now I wonder where to solder the new wires. And should I cut the traces close to the solder points where it looks a little bit sketchy. I want to repair the visa for pin header and put some wires where it seems like I may have ruined the traces or what you call them. And also another question what is required for being able to download files in file section?

I was playing with a different 007 Agent Under Fire game save hack and while flashing a new BIOS on a version 1.0 Xbox I flashed a 256k BIOS(STUPID I know). Yep it was FRAGing afterwards now you can either fit a mod chip and be done with it or do a 3 wire flash recovery by following the instructions that can be found by working the Google on the interweb. The instructions say 1 wire soldered to ground and the other 2 get soldered to points on the bottom of the mother board(pain in the butt as you now have to remove the PCB again), Me been lazy and not wanting to remove the PCB again found an easy way to do the 3 wire trick. {pic 1} You need a test lead with alligator clips both ends and a pin. {pic 2} Clip the pin in one end and the other on the metal shield(you did leave the metal shield in didn't you)and the point of the pin is gently held on pin 1 and 2 of the TSOP chip. {pic 3} Power on the Xbox and if all goes well your Xbox boots. Remove the pin that's shorting the 2 pins to ground. Now flash the correct 1024k (1 meg) BIOS. If you don't like the idea of shorting the pins on the TSOP IC the points in the pic below show the same points on the top of the PCB and the bottom of the PCB. {pic 4} 1 2 3 4 Inside the box on lower right of pic 4 are the same points as in pic 1 On side note I did try a mod chip and with some BIOS's the Xbox booted but with no video out but the Xbox was still showing on my home network and I was still able to network in to the box. SS Dave Those who can hard-mod, Those who can’t soft-mod. Ps If you like it don't forget to say thanks and please give me any feedback good or bad!

I'm attempting to help someone with their original Xbox that refuses to boot. His family pulled it from storage around Thanksgiving and it powered on but gave error message. Initially I recommend just finding another working unit but this one holds special sentimental value. Turns out belonged to his oldest son who passed away from a brain tumor at 14. Got this as a part of his Make a Wish gift at 12 and played it constantly. So I've done softmod on Xbox, Wiis, and PS3 but never tried a modchip but was thinking that it might be a way to get this thing back up and running. Can this be done or any other ideas? I tore the system down, pulled the leaky clock capacitor, cleaned the board, checked all connections and reassembled but no go. Could use any help with this. Thanks!

I have a 1.0 Xbox that has the dreaded "Christmas Lights" flashing on the eject button. It tries to boot twice before doing its signature Red and Green flashing. Nothing is displayed on the TV so no codes are provided. It also makes a terrible noise when it fails to boot up. After tearing it down completely, cleaning everything top to bottom, removing the clock capacitor (which did not leak thank god), opening and inspecting the DVD drive then hooking everything back up I'm about 99% sure the condition and noise is being caused by a faulty HDD. My question is, assuming my diagnosis is correct, if I bought a SATA HDD (with the proper cables and converter) and installed an Aladdin XT Plus2 Modchip inside would it bring this Xbox back to life? Again, the theory is that the original HDD took a shat so I'm not worried about the DVD drive or motherboard. If there are any other steps I should take (EXCEPT softmodding and replacing the whole console) please let me know. If you require any other information I can also provide it for you. Thank you for your time and help on the matter!

I have a version 1.4 console with a modchip installed due to a bad TSOP flash. I cannot seem to find the location of the A15 point to attempt the repair process. Can anyone point me to an image? Thanks.