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Opened up the Xbox to fix some trace corrosion. When I put everything back in and booted up, none of my controllers were working. Iv double checked the daughter board several times. Everything is plugged in correctly. On boot up it launches the clock and none of my controllers work in any of the slots. I found out I was atleast getting power through the controller port because when I plugged in my Wingman XB2 it lights up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I was playing with a different 007 Agent Under Fire game save hack and while flashing a new BIOS on a version 1.0 Xbox I flashed a 256k BIOS(STUPID I know). Yep it was FRAGing afterwards now you can either fit a mod chip and be done with it or do a 3 wire flash recovery by following the instructions that can be found by working the Google on the interweb. The instructions say 1 wire soldered to ground and the other 2 get soldered to points on the bottom of the mother board(pain in the butt as you now have to remove the PCB again), Me been lazy and not wanting to remove the PCB again found an easy way to do the 3 wire trick. {pic 1} You need a test lead with alligator clips both ends and a pin. {pic 2} Clip the pin in one end and the other on the metal shield(you did leave the metal shield in didn't you)and the point of the pin is gently held on pin 1 and 2 of the TSOP chip. {pic 3} Power on the Xbox and if all goes well your Xbox boots. Remove the pin that's shorting the 2 pins to ground. Now flash the correct 1024k (1 meg) BIOS. If you don't like the idea of shorting the pins on the TSOP IC the points in the pic below show the same points on the top of the PCB and the bottom of the PCB. {pic 4} 1 2 3 4 Inside the box on lower right of pic 4 are the same points as in pic 1 On side note I did try a mod chip and with some BIOS's the Xbox booted but with no video out but the Xbox was still showing on my home network and I was still able to network in to the box. SS Dave Those who can hard-mod, Those who can’t soft-mod. Ps If you like it don't forget to say thanks and please give me any feedback good or bad!

I have an unmodded 1.4 Xbox with a Samsung SDG-605B drive that won't read discs. The drive sounds like it's trying to read a disc, but then gets kicked out to the Xbox menu. I've tried all the usual things: cleaning the laser, greasing the rails/gears, adjusting the pots (anywhere from +10% to -20% of the original resistance) with no luck. Determined to get this fixed, I ordered a few replacement lasers from: https://alltroniccomputer.com.sg/products/cd-dvd-xbox-optical-pickup-sohd16-soh-d16-xbox360 My original laser pickup is SOH-DR16S, but it should be interchangeable with this one-- SOH-D16. I ordered 2 just to be sure and neither one of them worked. And yes I desoldered the anti-static blob and played with the pots. I read on another thread that the SDG-605F resistor arrays NR601 - NR606 can commonly fail. I checked the analogous resistors on the SDG-605B but they seem to measure the correct resistances. Lastly, I swapped DVD drives with a working Xbox and sure enough the working Xbox won't read discs, while the broken Xbox is fixed. So I'm pretty sure the problem is isolated to the DVD drive. There is such a scarcity of information on this drive on the internet and this forum seems to be the best resource. Any ideas on what it could be/what I could do next?

The X3 on top works perfectly. The one on the bottom gets smoking hot and will not boot. I am guessing there is a short to ground but not sure what to check. Any ideas? What typically fails on these?

Hi guys TLDR: - My xbox's Samsung disc drive no longer works, already tried the usual things. - Am I using the correct replacement laser? - have I overlooked anything for optical drive repair? - Can I still mod my xbox with an OpenXenium chip + can I properly upgrade the hard drive without ever needing the disc drive again (eg for running Hexen or OGXbox installation Disc, or can I use another way to properly set up a 2tb hard drive I've got for the planned upgrade). ________________________ Full version. Hi guys. I've got a stock OG PAL Xbox (v1.1?) that doesn't read any kind of discs anymore. I found this out 3 weeks ago when I took my xbox out for the first time after a few months. It doesn't ever give disc errors. It does not have any hard or soft mods applied yet, but I've got an openxenium chip on hand ready for when I eventually get to modding (also have a 2tb Seagate Barracuda drive set aside as an upgrade). I'll add that I've already removed the clock capacitor almost 2 years ago when I bought the xbox and had zero associated issues. I usually run my xbox via RGB scart on my CRT, and it previously ran without any problems. My OG xbox has a Samsung drive: SDG-605 version B, and originally has a SOH-D16 laser. I initially tried the usual stuff and none of it worked : - cleaned the laser lens - tried lowering the DVD Potentiometer resistance through various ranges (1800ohms from factory, lowered down to 830ohms testing every 100 or so Ohms) - checked the lubricants and deep cleaned the console for any dust/debris. - Eject button and disc tray works fine. I can't find any spare optical drive replacements in the UK currently, so I opted to replace the laser assembly. I purchased the replacement from AliExpress, though the laser model number I received was actually SOH-DR16S, rather than the SOH-D16. The listing stated it was for SOH-D16, but I received the SOH-DR16S instead (I can't seem to find any of the former anywhere). I couldn't find any confirming information about whether these laser assemblies are completely cross compatible in my DVD drive (but all the connector assemblies and ribbon connectors seem to fit perfectly fine). I also followed Bahamutfan64's reddit post and the linked guide to try and prepare the laser for best compatibility*: - swapped the white houseing onto the new laser - desoldered the static protection/storage solder bridges for both potentiometers (and tried my best to minimise static discharge risk when working with the lasers after the safety bridges were removed) - reassembled the laser assembly into the Samsung drive and removed the blue lens protection film - cleaned the lens with 99% IPA to remove any residue from the protective film. - recorded both potentiometers' factory resistances. The CD pot was 800ohms from factory, whilst the DVD pot's factory was 2010ohms. These values failed to boot any of my games or CDs. - I then gradually tweaked and tested my DVD pot down to about 1240ohms, testing at roughly every 100ohm intervals, and still couldn't boot into any of my games. I'm not sure if I should go all the way down to 800ohms onnthe DVD pot on a "brand new" laser. Here's how the Xbox mostly seemed to usually behave with the new laser (and even with the old laser with Pot tweaks): with the game disc inside, the eject button would keep flashing. At the same time the optical drive motor would try a few short bursts of spinning the disc, followed by a longer spin. After this longer spin it gives up reading the disc and the eject button stops flashing. I don't know if this is a sign of the optical drive's spindle motor failing, but I think it may be unlikely. I don't get any error messages, and the xbox simply remains in the green home menu screen (even last year when I had occasional failed disc reads, I would never receive error messages). I tried a range of different known working games and CDs to no success. I want some help and was wondering where to go from here. I have a few questions: Is there any way of telling whether the optical drive's PCB is gone? There aren't any obvious signs such as leaky caps or burnt componenents. I don't own an oscilloscope or any really seriously fancy equipment. The ribbon cables are all intact and I've even tried cleaning all of their contacts and reseating. All the necessary moving parts/gears appear/feel lubricated (doesn't appear overlubed) and the laser's worm gear/motor seems to be working fine. The eject/disc tray motor and associated parts also seem to be working. Is my replacement laser assembly actually compatible? I actually tried ordering 2 laser assemblies, sadly I received SOH-DR16S and not SOH-D16. Would these differences in lasers even matter for my Samsung Drive? They both appear identical. As far as I know, I believe an SOH-D16 can be used in place of a SOH-DR16S, but not sure if it works the other way around for my specific context. Would it be worth me trying the second brand new SOH-DR16S laser as well? I have no way if telling if these new lasers were dead on arrival. If I fail with disc drive repair, could I still successfully install the openxenium chip without ever needing the disc drive? Is it possible to run the OG xbox without an optical drive ever again and still get the key modchip benefits? Ie changing the bios/nand file, upgrading to a 2tb hard drive from stock (and boot my backups from this drive). I know that the Hexen disc/OGXBox installation disc would still require an optical drive, but could I still run these (or at least their features) without an optical disc drive? Is Hexen/OGXbox install disc even necessary in my setup is using OpenXenium? Ideally I'd like to avoid grabbing a second xbox just to salvage a working DVD drive that will likely fail soon anyway. I'm also aware with a modchip I can grab a PC dvd drive to play CD/DVD/burned media if absolutely needed (sadly I don't have one of these to hand, and I won't ever be able to use this to boot my original discs). Sorry for the long post, I wanted to include as much detail as possible including everything I've already tried and considered. *Guides I followed for laser replacement: https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/phuhy3/samsung_sohdr16_laser_replacement/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share http://fillwithcoolblogname.blogspot.com/2011/02/xbox-dvd-laser-replacement.html?m=1

Hi I've got another dead xbox the mobo is corroded by the clock cap. The previous owner tried to repair but components flaked off. I'm hoping I can add the missing components and get it working again with some help here. It's bad. It looks like 5 SMD transistors and 5 resistor or diodes are missing. serial and gfx chip (focus) suggest board is v1.4 according to https://www.informit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=367210&seqNum=2 The same area on v1.6 is very different so it would be a big help if anyone can photo the components on a v1.0 to 1.4 board thanks

I have a 1.0 Xbox I got from Goodwill online. It smells like a smoker crawled inside it and died, and I ended up accidentally tearing off the alt d0 pad , but got someone to repair it. However, it still does not boot, as it FRAGs instead. Can't figure out what is wrong - tons of pictures attached below. Things I've tried: Known-good PSU Booting WITH modchip + grounded d0 Booting without modchip or grounded D0 Swapping capacitors with good capacitors from a 1.1 Swapping the TSOP for one from a 1.1 Cleaning the board with IPA (multiple times) If any closer pictures are needed of any part, tell me.

Hello everyone! Obviously a little new here. Looking to get my 1.6 repaired if anyone can help me out. Basically, my son and I were playing a game and console completely turned off. Turned it back on and it immediately shut off. Tried again and it wouldn’t turn on anymore. Just a click. I ordered a new power supply thinking that may be the culprit, swapped it out and still nothing. Console is softmodded and has a larger HDD that I did myself about 6-7 years ago. I rarely play (have 2 kids under 5) but my autistic son is really into sonic (which is installed on the HDD). My original sega is in storage:( I also would have to look for the original HDD drive which is probably in storage as well since I haven’t had it in there for years. At this point I’m sure it’s a motherboard issue, but definitely want to get it working again. Anyhow, let me know what possible options are! Thanks again!

Greetings to all, I have an xbox classic 1.0 that they gave me. As soon as I tried to turn it on the initial boot appeared, but then I heard a noise like something sizzling coming from the power supply. I open the xbox and I noticed some screws springs on the power supply which probably caused a short circuit. Now the console does not turn on anymore. If I try to turn it on, the fan turns half a turn and turns off. In stand by I have 3.25 volts on the purple cable while the transformer on the secondary between the red and black cable gives me 0 volts. What could I check. Thank you

I have a Logitech X3B18 receiver that has had the usb cable removed (not by me, I just got it like that). If anyone has an intact receiver, could someone tell me the order that the wires go into the board, oriented with the J1 label facing front and on the right as pictured?

So I had the issue where the xbox would come on as soon as it was plugged in and the power button would not work to shut it off. So I did the trace repair on all 5 traces in the tutorial. Now the xbox will still come on as soon as it's plugged in but it will not shut off Randomly. Is there another trace other than the 5 in the tutorial That need repair?

Hi, i'm new to the scene and got my first chipped box a few weeks ago. Because i'm interested in tinkering around it happend that my Flashchip somehow got corrupted in the process of trying out another BIOS ... i'm kinda stuck now and absolutely want to recover from this situation by myself, so there have a few ideas risen and i may ask more veteran people about them: Ideas: 1. Boot the XBox of a friend of mine, remove the Flash with power on and flash mine. Did this years ago regulary on PC Mainboards but also know that these devices aren't built for hotswapping them and so i'm a little bit afraid of killing the circuitry with voltage spikes. 2. Softmod the Box and Flash the Modchip then. Question 1: Possible in general? Question 2: Is it possible to Softmod "externally" on a PC. I have a eeprom backup of my box and the key isn't nulled. 3. Invest a few bucks and buy a USB Flasher which is compatible with PLCC32 chips - mine is a SST 49lf020a. Question: Can i use other Chips with similar specification too? I'm thinking of ordering a SST 39SF02070-4C-N which has very similar specifications compared to the original one, which is no longer produced or available. Just a sidenote: The Modchip i use is a Alladin XT Thanks, Egon

I have a v1.4 Xbox and I followed the trace corrosion repair thread. I saw that trace A which is in the picture was bad and I tried to run a wire from the via, but it was too difficult. http://web.archive.org/web/20160330163920/http://diy.sickmods.net/images/pe_trace_12-15.jpg I decided to instead run a wire from the top side of the board to the end of the trace at the circular pad A. So, I wired it to the right side of the bottom signal resistor that's highlighted in red in the P/E continuity trace linked picture. However, I just now noticed that maybe the wire should've been soldered to the left side that's highlighted in pink. It seems to go on and off correctly, but I'm worried maybe I'm bypassing the resistor because of the way I soldered it in.

As it says in the title.

My OG Xbox started to Frag after a recap using the Console 5 kits. The PSU has been successfully recapped, mod chip and the extra ram chips work as i did that before the recap, clock cap area is fine, i removed that cap quite a while ago and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Every cap is in the right place and in the right orientation. But i did install C3B1 near the AV port, the 100uf cap the wrong away around the first time. I fixed that mistake, powered it on again but i get a Frag. What could be the problem? I reflowed the solder many times, and can’t find shorts either. Images: https://imgur.com/gallery/WIgbUQI

so got my uncle's xbox he said it does'nt work so I opened it up cleaned it then tried to turn it on. at first it booted og xbox boot animation with evox then shuts down, after which it tries to start up again maybe around 3x but at the end the Led would blink like crazy the powers off completely so how can I fix this.

Thank you in advance for any and all help provided, I can't seem to make the MS Dash boot via the .xbe I am trying to launch if from C:/MS Dashboard/default.xbe I upgraded the HDD and transferred files back but not sure why it isn't booting anymore!? Could file be corrupted? Can it be repaired? XBOX v1.0 X3 Chip/X3 Bios UnleashX Dash

So I'm repairing my motherboard after the dvd drive kept ejecting. Unfortunately my mb is a victim of that super capacitor. I removed and cleaned the board however the nearest transistor and resistor to the right corroded off. I managed to solder the transistor back on but I can't find the resistor. Anyone know what the value of that resistor? I tested the traces, so all of that looks good, so I'm guessing that resistor is the trouble maker.

After doing the trace repair (I used this video as an example) my Xbox powers on automatically but at least the random shutdown issues appear to be fixed. I can't seem to open the disc drive unless I press both power and the disc drive buttons. I notice the J2 trace seems to be causing it as I removed that one trace wire in troubleshooting. Nothing appears to be shorting. I can provide pictures once I'm done formatting/setting up the HDD I just put in.

I was given a 1.6 for free, soft modded it no problem - tried to put a shortcut in C to tell it to boot into XBMC4Gamers which I had installed in E: and something went wrong. Wouldn't boot into XBMC or the dashboard any more. No problem I think, I'll connected to FATXplorer on my PC. No dice - the drive is locked. So I boot up the xbox and try to hotswap it to a IDE/USB adapter to try and fix the bad dashboard, manage to get xboxhdm23usb to detect it, but it still said it was locked. Assumed i hadn't been quick enough with the hotswap. Try again and end up damaging one of the HDD pins (thank you whoever made this shitty adapter for putting it in a plastic housing and making it impossible to insert drives quickly). So now the xbox won't boot, the drive is locked, as well as damaged. Easier to just harvest it for spares now? It's a shame as it's a really clean 1.6 (that was the other thing, the next step would've been to TSOP it and boot into Hexen, but I haven't got a chip lying around and wouldn't trust my soldering skills anyway). Any thoughts on fixing this? P.S I tried to use Halo 2 to update the dashboard and fix it but it was already on the latest dashboard so it didn't work.

Hey all. Sorry if this has been posted, but I searched and couldn't really find anything. I have a 1.0 Xbox that was handed to me by a friend. He said he couldn't remember much about it, but that him and his kid tried to mod it a long time ago, and now it isn't working. Upon opening it, I found a pin header, no modchip, tsop points soldered, and the underside D0 pad ripped off. When I try to start the xbox, it cycles power 3 times then frags out. I'm assuming this is due mainly to the ripped D0 trace. I've tried repairing the trace, and bridging the two pads connected by the green line, but I can't seem to get the solder to stick. Is there any other way to repair this, or is this the only way? Relatively new to xbox modding so any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!

Hello, my name is Kris and I wrote the Xbox repair guide 2.1 around 17 years ago. I have thought about updating it (my grammar was atrocious!) and wanted to get feedback from OG Xbox fans. On top of the grammar, I wanted to reshoot the videos and pictures to today's standards. I also saw the suggestion for a PDF version, so that's gonna go on the list. Any other suggestions? There's a lot I have missed since getting out of gaming so any help would be appreciated.

Hi! Couple of days ago I decided to try repair my xbox which has been sitting on my shelf for at least 15 years after dying suddenly. I opened up a thread on reddit here, and chatted with KaosEngineeer over there. To sum up the current situation: -The xbox is unresponsive when pressing eject and power button, no sign of life. Back in the days it was repaired under warranty (substitution of the PSU) and then repaired and modded with Aladdin and Evo X. -Opening it up I noticed that the clock capacitor had leaked, but seemingly not caused any corrosion. I removed the cap and cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol. - I tried checking the PSU and it seems to work, giving out 3.3 Volts on the standby contact (brown in my case). I tried short circuiting the standby with the PowON (white) contact by using a piece of wire metal, and I verified that the lines (orange, red and yellow) are more or less in line with the pinout (instead of being 5 Volts there are 5.27 Volts and instead of 12 Volts there are 10.73 Volts). - I checked both visually and with a multimeter that the 4 traces under the motherboard are uninterrupted. In particular, looking at this image: There is continuity between the cyan and violet pins on the PIC chip and the cyan and violet contact in the bottom of the image. The 4 resistances in the same image seem to work fine, with a value of about 10 kOhm each. -I checked that the front panel eject and power button work by verifying that, when pressed, they connect to ground the red and blue traces next to the 10kOhm signal resistances. -Now, the stangest thing: if I give power, the brown contact is at 3.3 volts (verified while the psu is attached to the motherboard by inserting the multimeter probe in the top space between the plastic plug and the brown wire), but for some reason the PIC pins that should have the same voltage when the console is plugged (before and after pressing the eject and power button) remain at 0 Volt no matter if I press the front panel buttons or not and no matter if I choose a different point for ground ( I tried using all the black cables and the RF cage). So, basically I'm stuck. Any ideas? Thank you for help

Hello everyone, I am writing this today to see if anyone would potentially know what the issue is with my Xbox's dvd drive. A little backstory. I got an unopened 1.6 many months ago. The console would give the lovely 07 error, so I figured the hard drive was the problem. I swapped out the hard drive with a known good working hard drive, and chipped the console, and would still get the 07 error. In my quest to repair the xbox, I noticed that the green light was constantly flashing whenever I turned the console on. I swapped out the disc drive and all of the console's problems went away. That brings me to my issue. I currently have a Samsung SDG-605F that stops the console from detecting the hard drive whenever its IDE cable is connected. If I connect only the power cable, the console will open and close the console no problem. When I then connect the IDE cable, the console flashes green constantly and the drive will not respond to the eject button being pressed. I've taken a look at the drive's motherboard and there is nothing that stands out as wrong. My thoughts are that the firmware has gotten partially corrupted, the dram chip on the drive's motherboard is dead, or there are issues with the MediaTek controller on the drive's motherboard. I'm not sure what the issue is. I am hoping that someone here knows what the issue is and what I would need to do to fix it. Thank you for reading through all of this. DobaMuffin

Hi everyone! I have a 1.4 with trace issues, upon plugging in the power it starts automatically and when it's off, will occasionally boot at random. I managed to repair one trace as a preventative but not the 3 needed to ensure it's not an issue anymore, I found them too hard to work on https://imgur.com/gallery/ExATwa6 (not my pictures, just as an example!) I did the equivalent of the white wire and blue, is there another place to solder the other green/purple equivalent connections? It would be on the other side of the board I assume.