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Found 7 results

  1. OK, I had a lot of trouble getting the AV port out of my v1.6 XBox. The solder pump I was using removed the traces on the underside of the board. Traces on the top are fine so I am able to tap the SPDIF and 5V. However, on the bottom, I tried using bodge wires soldered directly to the resistors going to pins 11, 12 and 13. My work so far has unfortunately been messy at best and I am getting flashing orange when starting the XBox so I am pretty sure it is my bodge work that is the issue. Does anyone know if there is a better way to short pins 11/12 and 13/14 elsewhere if my AV port through holes are toast? Reference picture of pins below... http://i.imgur.com/pyjq4y6.jpg BTW, the specific behavior I am seeing is I get a green light on the Xbox initially. The HD+ blue light blinks slowly (about every 3 seconds on 3 seconds off). After 10 or so seconds the Xbox flashes orange and needs to be unplugged to turn off. I did check the ribbon cable installation a couple of times. I checked for bridged connections. I also checked that I got continuity all the way from the ribbon far edge to the opposite side of the resistor that the trace was soldered to. So I believe the cable is soldered correctly (I'm sure, however, I could be proven wrong). I also tried checking continuity from by bodges to the other side of each resistor and had mixed results. I checked my soldering and it appears to be good. Not sure if maybe I fried the resistors if that is possible. Maybe I need to jump across the resistor (not sure if they do anything when pins 11/12 and 13/14 are bridged).
  2. For the second time in 18 months I've just lost use of another genuine MS Xbox Memory card. The memory card hadn't had anything written to it for months although many games access any attached memory devices so you can load a backup save from them. Then suddenly out of the blue this week it started displaying consistently as 0MB free space in the file manager, particularly after rebooting. It was quite full, only three blocks left so I tried deleting a couple of large saves when it, occasionally, started working again. That didn't help at all. I tried other controllers/slots/controller ports too - no joy in any case. The card is still recognised as being attached and when using the MS dash you can see the content although it takes a good minute to appear. What you can't do is write to it or delete anything. Very similar story for the first memory card too. Became unusable in the same way. Anyone else had an experience of MS Xbox 8MB memory cards going bad?
  3. Hi, i'm new to the scene and got my first chipped box a few weeks ago. Because i'm interested in tinkering around it happend that my Flashchip somehow got corrupted in the process of trying out another BIOS ... i'm kinda stuck now and absolutely want to recover from this situation by myself, so there have a few ideas risen and i may ask more veteran people about them: Ideas: 1. Boot the XBox of a friend of mine, remove the Flash with power on and flash mine. Did this years ago regulary on PC Mainboards but also know that these devices aren't built for hotswapping them and so i'm a little bit afraid of killing the circuitry with voltage spikes. 2. Softmod the Box and Flash the Modchip then. Question 1: Possible in general? Question 2: Is it possible to Softmod "externally" on a PC. I have a eeprom backup of my box and the key isn't nulled. 3. Invest a few bucks and buy a USB Flasher which is compatible with PLCC32 chips - mine is a SST 49lf020a. Question: Can i use other Chips with similar specification too? I'm thinking of ordering a SST 39SF02070-4C-N which has very similar specifications compared to the original one, which is no longer produced or available. Just a sidenote: The Modchip i use is a Alladin XT Thanks, Egon
  4. tried to install the aladdin xt plus2 on my 1.6 and ... last connection i had to make didnt go well ... i feel bad the point didnt want to tin, ended up destroying the point and traces around it is there anyway can i fix this mess ? https://ibb.co/FY4vbT0 https://ibb.co/nRq48GJ (its my first time soldering dont be too mean on me lol) thanks for future inputs
  5. This is new to me - I had a Controller S go properly bad yesterday. It was one of those which had developed stick centering issues but I'd thought I'd fixed that using some plastic friendly lubrication. At the same time I also replaced the sticks as the thumb-pads were badly worn. The controller worked perfectly for six weeks after that but I had suspicion things were not quite right a few days ago when the Xbox booted and it would start scrolling through the main dash menu on its own again. Re-centering problems returning you'd think and that appeared to be the case because if I rolled the sticks 360 degrees a few times and then rebooted all started behaving normally again. But last night something else went wrong: the attached memory card was continuously being reported as corrupt (its not) and the main dash menus were not auto scrolling up or down as they had before, they were actually stuck. You could move the menu down using the d-pad but selecting a particular menu item was very difficult. It would shift up one and then just wouldn't launch. Removing the controller and rebooting appeared to fix the problem but shortly after I started a game I discovered the left trigger was not working and some other buttons too. Rebooted again, tried a different game - all good initially but the same faulty behaviour soon reappeared. Using another controller quickly confirmed this was a specific controller issue not a controller port or Xbox console one. Anyone else had a Controller S go bad like this?
  6. I had a copy of the collection of 97 emulators for the xbox from isozone, but my machine died and now isozone is gone:( Am I completely screwed or is there another place to get them again anywhere?
  7. Hello, I've got an xbox to which I've performed the trace corrosion repair on the past, as the buttons did not shut down the console properly (it only turned on after i applied power to the unit). I've ran it just with the power button working, until now, when I decided to go ahead and try to fix both buttons. But now it went bad or something, because no matter how hard I jump wires to traces A, B and D (C is fine on my board, and I can't find E) as shown on this thread, the console simply refuses to turn on anymore.the wires are just fine and they give me continuity when soldered, but that's that. I know for sure that the power supply is perfectly fine (it never really failed). Even with only traces A and B soldered properly I can't get the console to boot anymore, and the right hand side of C7P8 has continunity to the solder pad in trace D (just saying because i'm not sure if this is how it should be, I hope nothing shorted ). Is there any other way to wire the power to the board so it'll work again? It would be really bad to have to throw it away over something like this.... I really hope someone can help me. Thanks in advance.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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