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I am attempting to install a modchip for the first time. I have an aladdin XT clone from Aliexpress. The xbox is 1.4. I have a wire from bottom-side D0 to the top-side D0 pad on the chip. BT on the chip is wired to ground using the quick solder connector. The HD is stock with the standard xbox dashboard. Xbox was verified functional pre-modding. The only other mod is the removal of the clock capacitor. The console performs 3x boot attempts before FRAGing and eventually powering off. I used the LPC diagnostics page to verify my soldering. All eleven pins have continuity to the points described in the "baldbouncer" diagram. The only weirdness I noticed is that baldbouncer pin 4 to test point 4 has a resistance of about 1K. The via immediately below test point 4 has a much lower resistance to pin 4. See blue arrow in attached diagram. Despite watching a lot of tutorials and reading the documentation, I can't rule out some rookie mistake. Any tips for troubleshooting this?
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As mentioned in the title. The xbox restarts 3 times and flashes green and red alternately the third time. The so-called ask. Which can mean anything. The console came from something like eBay and the seller wanted to throw it in the trash because he couldn't fix it. I bought it anyway because it's a crystal. I've been looking for a long time. No capacitors were broken and all voltages were correct. Then I noticed that the lpc was being fried quite badly. After removing the solder from the LPC, I measured it again and there was about 1.5 volts missing at pin 1...or it switched off again very quickly. The same thing happened before the mcpx on the 3.3 volt pad. Well, long story short. I remembered a post by kaos engeneer. On the LPC (pin4) where the 2 vias are, a reset signal is passed along. And it was precisely this track that was torn down by the previous owner. That's why the console couldn't start and switched off the above-mentioned voltages. I repaired this track and everything is back to normal. Maybe it will help someone. Attached is another picture
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Hello! I've found a lot of good info and clever people on this board, so I'm hoping someone can help me out. It started with my old v1.1 Xbox and I screwed up the flash on the Xecuter 2.3b Lite and had no way to recover, so I bought an OpenXenium. I installed the pin header and mod chip and it worked great, for about a minute or two. Then the Xbox crashed. When I powered it back on, it FRAG'd. Disconnecting the mod chip didn't boot back into the stock BIOS either. I found a guy selling a mint v1.1 Xbox nearby for cheap so I bought it. I yanked the clock cap, installed the mod chip, and it booted up and worked great...for about a minute. It crashed and FRAG'd on reboot. Disconnecting D0 and removing the chip wouldn't boot the stock BIOS. Sounds familiar... After leaving the Xbox to sit for a few days while I ordered a magnifying lamp and some nicer wire, I soldered on a new D0 connection and just put the chip in with nothing else (no video even) and switched it on. Green light! Great! Installed the DVD drive and SSD and then...FRAG. I'm pretty confused now. I followed this guide to check the contact points on the board and I traced their resistance, all are less than 0.1 ohms (except the grounding pins...I don't know why those are mapped to vias?). https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2021_01/68206083_xboxLPC.thumb.png.331244095aee4bc57088b5b4ce2ec6c7.png With the system powered on, I checked the voltage and all looks good except the Pin 5 RST voltage is sometimes really low. That seems significant. I have another Xbox on the way but at this point I'm starting to think the mod chip is broken and murdering Xboxes. Since they won't boot even with the chip disconnected, that makes me think the chips borked the EEPROM or caused some electrical damage. I also find it weird that after letting the Xbox sit for a couple days and really not doing much, it worked once and then not again. I'm wondering if there's some kind of breaker being tripped and that resets? I know the Nintendo 64 has something like that if you had inserted the memory expansion pack backwards, you'd have to wait an hour or something. I've visually scanned the motherboard looking for bad traces, solder splash, anything looking out of the ordinary and it all looks fine. I'm at a loss at this point. What else can I check? What am I missing? Big thanks for any help anyone can provide
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So I done a ram upgrade which resulted in a freeze, red/orange then frag (wasn’t able to test 1 by 1), removing all 4 chips didn’t fix the issue. Attempting it again with another board, first chip was a success with xblast, second chip was installed by the cpu, xblast then froze when checking that chip and now that console is fragging, again removing that one chip doesn’t fix the issue. Are the boards dead or is there things I can try?
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I'm trying my hand at both soldering (never done it before) and hardmodding by installing an OpenXenium chip onto my 1.0 Xbox. As the title states, I'm getting nothing after my first attempt. My initial assumption was that I probably have a cold solder point on the LPC debug header, although the single wire could cause harm (I doubt that ones bad though.) I remembered, however, that due to it not being used, I left pin 15 filled, as I was struggling to get it opened. While I doubt it, could that be causing any issues? Here's a picture of the joints for easier assessment: Thanks in advance for any assistance.
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I've a Xbox v1.2 - 1.5. I know you can TSOP it, but I like the options a modchip brings. So, I soldered the LPC pinheader, a wire from D0 to ground (screwhole) and a wire on the Aladdin XT PLUS2 XT 4032 chip from the BT to the other pad. Now when turning on the Xbox it FRAGs. The led on the modchip is on. When I remove the modchip (I didn`t remove the LPC header or the D0 to ground wire, only the modchip from the header) the FRAGing exists. Before I soldered the modchip, the Xbox was working fine. Some photo's from my soldering job. I also tested from the top of the board the D0 point and my meter beeps on all the screwplates, so that looks fine. Also the LPC pinheader looks good. So I'm a bit frustrated because of this issue. https://imgur.com/a/3IRniGb Above the pinheader you'll see some flux residu, I've taken care of that after the photo's. Is there a way to double check the connections from the pins and the back of the board to somewhere on the board?
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I bougth broken og xbox 1.6 for repairs when i try boot xbox he blinks green lights three times and then flashing red/green .i open up and see that xbox was modded with super aladin modchip live when i delsoder wires from modchip xbox boot up with error code 05 so i redo soldering on xbox and i saw that there was not cut trace u7c1 so i cut and xbox begins again fraging here picture of soldering lpc and modchip what do next did i need buy new modchip swap or console is not fixable https://ibb.co/JsmkYR2 https://ibb.co/yFBtCPR https://ibb.co/pdxkJRN
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Hello everyone! I will tell you about my problem: I have an Xbox 1.0 with TSOP and 128Mb of RAM (I bought it pre-modified), I have tried to install an Aladdin Xblast by soldering the pinheaders to the LPC port and soldering point D0 of the motherboard to D0 of the chip (I have also tried soldering D0 from motherboard to ground on motherboard) and got FRAG. I have followed Barnito's Lpc Diagnostics (V0.1) guide (https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/239-lpc-diagnostics-v01/#comment-945) to verify voltages and continuity. With respect to continuity everything is correct except pin 2 and with respect to voltages everything is correct (+-10% of the correct voltage) except pin 1 0V and pin 5 1.7V. If I disconnect the D0 cable from the chip or ground, or if I disconnect the Aladdin chip, the console boots correctly with the Cerbios bios that I flashed in the TSOP and boots my Xbmc4gamers. What could be the problem? (if photos are necessary, I'll take them later when I get home from work)
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Modded a 1.6 with an Aladdin chip following a thorough tut on YT Rebuilt the LPC per the tutorial. I programmed with the latest cerbios. Pic attached isn't mine, but i followed this exact pic Powered on = frag Removed the hdd = frag Removed the disc drive = frag Disconnected the chip = no frag. Console booted up to the splash screen followed by errors related to the hdd and disc drive since they were disconnected Other then that Will cerbios run the origins 2tb? When i did a cerbios on a 1.4, i remember having to format the hdd with cerbios in fatxplorer Suggestions? Thanks in advance
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I have a 1.0 Xbox. It’s really close to the 1.1 change over but pretty sure it’s a 1.0. It was starting up fans and drives originally but still FRAGing. I tuned up the disc drive and I can tell the HDD sounds like it’s not running well, but still no boot at all. I could at least tell that the clock Cap had leaked so I decided to pull that. I got it out nice and clean and cleaned up the area around it but it didn’t look bad. No corrosion on front or back really. I reassembled for testing and now I’m getting the same FRAG but with no boot sounds. No disk spinning, no fans, nothing except the FRAG light. All I did was take out the clock Cap. Thinking about doing a full Cap replace on the board and PSU. Any other advice or things to test first?
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Long time reader first time poster! Sorry to start in this way but I'm completely lost and if possible I need your help all... First disclaimer, before the attempt on both console to install the modchip everything works fine (stock console no softmod or other modchip). As per the title I've installed the same Aladin XT Plus 2 (pick-up from AliX) but at the end (after the first boot) both console start to have the same issue as per below : Tries to Boot 3x then FRAG (Christmas Lights) Usually due to a failed or improperly installed modchip or the IDE cable being plugged in upside down somewhere. Check modchip wiring and IDE cables. If you did not do any soldering, it could be a bad PSU. - On both console I've already removed all the wires for the Aladin (beside the connector on the MB) - Cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol - Replaced the power supply - Recaps (Done only on the 1.0) - Searched on the motherboard for broken component or any other strange visual sign of issue Is clear that the Aladin I've is faulty but what I can try now to revive those two console? Thanks!
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Hi, I’ve been trying to fix an Xbox which used to work perfectly. I tried to do the wii to hdmi mod and screwed it up, so put the old av port back on and confirmed all the pins going to where they should go, but it started fragging. I compared it with a working Xbox and found one line across the motherboard giving a strange diode reading of -1.1 or -1.0 when it should be 0.497 (red probe on ground). I’m attaching 2 photos showing a red line where this strange reading is. Any advice would be grateful.
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Hello all i have a 1.2 XBox that is 128mb Ram upgraded & flashed with the correct bios. A little while ago I installed an Aladdin XT modchip. The EVO bios kept having a 50/50 % chance of finding XBMX4Gamers on f:/ which was too much of a little problem so I removed the modchip, but I kept the wire soldered to the Upside D0 pad and used electrical tape to protect the end. Everything was great until today it just started Fragging unable to complete boot? after a little trial and error I decided to put the modchip back (without connecting D0) and it booted EVO bios to the green flubber! I am totally stuck with what to do? I googled alternative D0 points and can’t find a short (even covering them with electric tape) https://imgur.com/pMhevhQ I can’t visibly see a problem unless there is a leak on points C6D4 or RP6D4 as there was a grease like substance next to them! it just keeps fragging, it even frags once before booting the EVO bios on the modchip! is there anywhere I can send the board in the UK for a specialist to look at it
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Hi everyone, i have a 1.3 xbox with OpenXenium that i recently installed, however when D0 is grounded via the modchip or the ground point the xbox frags and won't load the modchip. I checked everyting and the joints are ok and also the traces. The console works fine without the D0 grounded since loads the default bios. By checking with the multimeter while in frag i discovered that the pin 5 is 0.19v instead of 3.33v. The pin is 3.33v when the D0 is not grounded.
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I installed and Open Xenium mod chip and the MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI mod in my old 1.6 Halo SE Xbox, along with a cheap SSD. I initially had everything running, & was able to boot into the EvoX dashboard as well as play games. Once I put all the case screws in & set it up, it booted normally once. After that boot, any other attempt was met with 3 failed boots followed by flashing red and green. I disconnected all the wires, reconnected them, and tried again. Again, 1 normal boot followed by endless FRAG results. Like in Greyleaf's thread, my Open Xenium chip doesn't light up at all with the FRAG boot attempts. I am a soldering novice, having only completed a Boxy Pixel GBA SP Unhinged build and GBC build. I did get some recommendations from a fried for better flux partway through the mod. I accidentally lifted a pad on the HD+ ribbon cable, but I ran a small wire to the trace farther up the cable . My first attempt to solder the cable had some issues. I completely removed & resoldered it. When the system boots, I do have functional video output. If I remove my Open Xenium chip from the pin connector, it boots into an error 16 page (I guess no surprise with a modified dashboard & unlocked drive). I replaced the clock capacitor and reflowed the solder for the Open Xenium. None of this has solved the issue. I also made a Reddit thread when I started troubleshooting. I think I've written the important details here, but it's there if I missed anything important. Summary: 1.6 Xbox Halo SE Delta DPSN-96DP PSU Open Xenium mod chip MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI port SSD upgrade I'm a novice Successfully boots once after reassembly (so far at least) Second boot attempt leads to 3 boot attempts then FRAG No lights on Open Xenium chip during failed boot process Normal lights on XboxHD+ during failed boot Disconnecting Open Xenium mod chip gives error 16 boot screen Looking for any troubleshooting help. Thanks.
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I have a 1.0 Xbox I got from Goodwill online. It smells like a smoker crawled inside it and died, and I ended up accidentally tearing off the alt d0 pad , but got someone to repair it. However, it still does not boot, as it FRAGs instead. Can't figure out what is wrong - tons of pictures attached below. Things I've tried: Known-good PSU Booting WITH modchip + grounded d0 Booting without modchip or grounded D0 Swapping capacitors with good capacitors from a 1.1 Swapping the TSOP for one from a 1.1 Cleaning the board with IPA (multiple times) If any closer pictures are needed of any part, tell me.
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I've heard that you can replace the 5 1500 uf caps on a 1.0 and 1.1 with 3 3300 uf caps anywhere. I have been trying to fix a 3 boot fragging 1.1 with bad caps. I replaced it with the three capacitors and it still frags. When trying a modchip sometimes it fragged and sometimes it became a coma console (green light no video). Do you think this fragging is caused by the capacitors being the three 3300 uf caps? Does it still need to be the 5 1500 uf caps?
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Hey guys, I've got a 1.2 that I spent the weekend revitalizing with all new fresh capacitors and upgrading the RAM to 128mb. Everything went well. I had Xblast reading all 128mb, and everything was working a treat. That is until I went to pull it apart for final disassembly to clean the case and everything up before putting all back together for the last time. I first removed the SATA/IDE adapter from the HDD, leaving the molex connector in place and holding it by the cables and moved the HDD tray out of the way. It was then, that I somehow managed to let the SATA/IDE adapter dangle enough for it to brush the PSU right along side the big 470uF 250v capacitor without realizing it. And in my excited haste, I had not yet disconnected the power cord from the Xbox... As soon as I saw the bright flash and pop that was the SATA adapter getting completely obliterated, my heart immediately sank. The adapter, of course, is thoroughly destroyed. The logic IC and one of the voltage regulators quite literally exploded. At that point, I knew I'd be extremely lucky if it was the only casualty. On the Xbox itself, it blew the T3.15A on the PSU. I had some spare 3 amp glass slow-blow fuses, so I rigged one up until I get the proper cylindrical fuse to replace it later this week. Surprisingly enough, the PSU still works fine, albeit with a slight discolored battle scar on side of the big capacitor... However the motherboard is a different story. It now 3 boot/FRAGs both with or without the X2.3b lite I've had installed for years present. Thinking I had fried it, not feeling too optimistic about fixing it, I harvested the newly installed RAM, and original RAM but subsequently reinstalled the original, after changing my mind on giving up so quickly. Anyway, I've tried all the troubleshooting methods I could with what tools I have at my disposal, which is not much. All the PSU voltages are good. I've swapped PSUs with another, just in case. One observation I made is that the MCPX X3 gets really hot very quickly, so I'm sort of thinking it's shorted and therefore also toast, and that's what's causing it to FRAG. In any case, I figured, maybe I'd share my story for your entertainment, and maybe even see if any of you had any suggestions on what else I might try to test before I go on the hunt for a replacement board and continue scavenging useful parts from this one.
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sorry i know this is another FRAG Post,,, didn't want to highjack the one from the 12th or 14th... ok Xbox 1.0 1mb, Flash Tsop with Cerbios 256k with restoox. FRAG xbox... Did the Coma fix, needed both A18/A19 for it to Boot.. flashed Cerbios 2.01 1mb, Cerbios 2.2R 256k, Ind 1mb(not same times) .With Xblast, Evo from OG installer disc, OGXBox TSOP Flasher v1.7.2 thru install.xbe from E:\ .. But once I remove the A18/A19 it won't boot.. I'm I supposed to Leave this for good? or Remove it once it's booted before I Flash? also With Cerbios won't see DVD now that i changed after Evo flash.. so i Changed this to 0 but now get the error? I can pull cerbios.ini off hdd.. just thought this was weird ; Drive Setup ; 0 = HDD & DVD, 1 = HDD & No DVD (Legacy Mode), 2 = HDD & No DVD (Modern Mode), 3 = Dual HDD DriveSetup = 1 .. I seen a post about this to somewhere in my searching time for a fix... can't find it now Thanks for any help on this.. I just need to stick to Chips lol...
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Hi guys, Bought a v1.3 from gumtree just to get into soldering TBH. I replaced the three capacitors near the CPU and removed the clock one too. The box looks like it doesn't have any mods done, and i don't see any corrosion. It does look like it works, as i can eject the disc and it seems to run, but i get no display or audio. I have tried another cable, but with the same result. Any pointers to what i should check? I have ordered a mod chip just in case the bios is bricked, but otherwise i am not sure what to check.
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Hello guys, This post will be somewhat long because I want to include as much relevant information as possible. I have a v1.1 NTSC-U Xbox console, which I purchased brand new back in 2003. I modded it with a Xecuter 2.0 Pro mod chip sometime around 2004. It worked great for 2-3 years with no issues whatsoever. Then, out of nowhere, it started to intermittently FRAG. Sometimes it would boot just fine, but other times the Xbox would flash red and green and require me to reboot it 10 times in a row before it would boot to dashboard. Also, sometimes the Xbox would boot just fine and work for 2-3 hours straight and then, for no apparent reason, lose the video output. Interestingly enough, it would lose the video output only, but not audio. I tried different BIOS versions as well as different banks on the Xecuter 2.0 mod chip, but to no avail. After all that, I decided that it was too much trouble and just stopped using this FRAGging Xbox. Fast forward to 2020, and I decided to connect this old v1.1 Xbox to my TV and test it out. It worked great for the first two weeks, but then started FRAGging just like 14 years ago. It behaves exactly the same way as it used to – it might boot just fine 10 times in a row, or it might FRAG 20 times in a row. I reflashed the BIOS again, but to no avail. I also noticed a few more things. First, the removal of the DVD drive and/or hard drive does not seem to affect the FRAGging at all. The console can still FRAG with both drives completely disconnected. Also, if the Xbox boots to dashboard with no issues, I can easily make it lose the video output by knocking on the table on which the Xbox is sitting or by touching the AV cable. If I reboot the console immediately after that, the Xbox would usually FRAG. Bad AV cable, right? Nope. I tried four different AV cables/adapters and this is happening with all of them. All said cables work perfectly with my v1.0 Xbox and no amount of knocking on the table or touching the cables can make this second Xbox lose the video output. Here is the list of AV cables that I tried with the same result (i.e. intermittent FRAGging on my v1.1 Xbox and no issues on my v1.0 Xbox): 1. OEM Microsoft Composite cable 2. OEM Microsoft AV pack 3. OEM Microsoft HD AV pack 4. Third party HD AV pack Here are a few more things that I did: * Sprayed the AV connector in the Xbox with DeoxIT D5 and inspected it for damage * Reflowed all solder joints on the AV connector, twice * Inspected the traces on the motherboard near the AV connector Here is a list of things that I could still do (but would rather not): * Stop relying on the AV connector. Instead, solder the wires to it and add component video and coaxial audio jacks to the back of the Xbox console. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that this will solve the FRAG issue. This Xbox was used by an adult and was never dropped or abused. At this point, I am not sure what else I can do besides soldering wires to the AV port and adding audio and video output jacks to the back of the Xbox. Does anyone have any idea of what might be happening? P.S. The pictures of the motherboard are attached to this post.
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I recently bought a few faulty Xboxes yesterday and I want to try sort out this 1.1 which FRAGs. When I press eject it will often not open the disc tray, sometimes it will open quarter or half way or not close when it does open. I've tried 3 disc drives and they all have the same issue indicating a motherboard or possibly daughterboard problem. I have removed the clock capacitor which was only starting to leak. I've cleaned up what little leakage there was. Any ideas?
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I made the boneheaded mistake of flashing my backup 1.2's TSOP chip with a retail BIOS while the hard disk was unlocked. I ended up purchasing an OpenXenium that was pulled from another console (evidently a 1.6 based on the use of the 1.6 jumper). After installing the pin header and connecting D0 to the chip on the underside of the board (I found continuity between the pad on the chip and the topside via for D0) I found that the console wouldn't boot. It was the typical 3 boot attempts before a 50:50 FRAG. I'm unsure as to why this is happening, it was previously used which leads me to believe it was working just fine in the console it came from. The only thing I've yet to try is to install it into my main 1.2 and see if it has the same problem there, and if so, I can figure out if the CPLD needs reprogramming and the flash chip needs XeniumOS reflashed. Has anyone else had an issue like this with their OpenXenium?
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Let me share some context: The past year, I read about the clock capacitor, so I decided to open my xbox to check the clock capacitor status and I found there was some leakage, but fortunatelly it didn't corroded other components nor traces. So I removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Then proceeded to softmod the console with Rocky5 tools and I also updated the harddrive to a 2TB SATA HDD. Then I played almost all Rally Sport Challenge 2 cups (except the last one) to test it and after that I moved the console to the living room. Another day, I started the console to continue playing and, as soon as I started it, I heard a strong crack inside the console and some burned electronic smell, so I turned it off. Then I opened the console and I found a small tube moving around, so I started looking for its original place until I found it was one of the PSU capacitors, the one rated as 25V 47uf in a delta PSU. Then I ordered a couple of new PSUs from ebay, a delta and a minebea. As soon as they arrived, I replaced mine with the Delta one and the console can be powered on, but there was a strong burned electronic smell, so I quickly turned it off. By looking at the CPU capactitors, there was some brownish color, so I changed the 5x 1500uf 6.3v by 3x 3300uf 6.3v Panasonic FM, then turned the console on again and it was FRAGed and the smell it's not longer strong, BUT I still can smell a light "funny smell", this time it smells like "new" electronic. Please help me to throubleshoot this issue, I really would like to repair this xbox as it is the one I used 20 years ago. If you need pictures of anything please let me know.
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Hey Guys, Im currently working on trying to fix a FRAG'd motherboard that I bought sometime last year. While normally I would just ditch the motherboard in a normal FRAG circumstance, this motherboard is special. Its a board that has the MCPX X2 chip instead of the retail X3 and has only 64mb of RAM. Im not entirely sure on what its history is, the person who I bought it from on Ebay didnt seem to know either so whether he is 2nd owner or even further down the line, im not sure. Either way im trying to do all I can to diagnose and fix the board so that I can turn it into a proper debug board that could maybe run stock un-modified Debug ROMs. Just a nice small little thing. Anyways, I had recently posted about this around a year ago asking if anyone had any X2 bioses and whether there was any main difference between a BIOS for a X2 and X3 other then the secret boot portion. After all that I built a Couple OpenXenium modchips and went to town on trying BIOS's. Ill note, the original 1mb ROM chip was FRAG'ing and at the moment i've pulled it and put it on a breakout but havent gotten around to reading it out. Anyways right now i've made a dumb variant of the Xenium firmware so that instead of doing all the smart stuff, it just boots and mirrors the first 1mb 16x across the memory space. I've also attached a stackable header to one of the chips so I could attach a logic analyzer I bought to read things out. So onto the results. While I haven't decoded the LPC address requests yet, based upon my initial inspection, it seems the system is requesting a set of data, and then just stopping. The clock still runs untill the PIC comes in and restarts the system since it didnt receive the special code. I've attached a photo to show what I mean. Im trying to work up a decoder for the analyzer so I can see what address its requesting and what data gets sent back. From what I see and speculate, it almost seems like a memory failure or something along the lines of that maybe? Im just thinking if the MCPX is requesting the first reset vector worth of data for the CPU but then nothing is getting transferred into ram, then it might not execute? Then again I didnt think things got transferred into RAM until the 1bl is loaded, and from what I figure from the capture, only about 16 bytes is getting transferred ( 16 LFRAME signals). If anyone has some suggestions, im all ears right now. I'd like to try and get this board up and running, but a FRAG state is hard to figure out and diagnose. If I cant get the decoder up and running in a bit here, i may just hand calculate the LPC transactions. And for those wondering, the bios im running is a patched 3944 bios. Patched as in I tossed the security 256 bytes into it. The dumb firmware works as I've tried it on a retail machine and it boots fine. If anyone is curious or wants a specific picture of the LPC capture, just ask and I'll see what I can do. Thanks in advance.
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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48