Search the Community

Since this is my first post (long time lurker) I just want to say I appreciate everyone who devotes time to making this console better than ever 20+ years after it released, as well as the knowledge I have read in others posts as it is extremely helpful, you guys rock. Now to my question - I recently installed a rp2040 tiny using modzville's adapter board on a friends xbox and it works great! Now that PrometheOS is supported on the Modxo, I flashed it to my friends box and the led on the rp2040 tiny started working, and you could change the colors through the PrometheOS settings. Last night I finally got around to building another one and putting it into my personal xbox, it also works great but for some reason I cannot get the led on my 2040 to light up. Both tinys used are waveshare brand. My xbox is rev 1.0 and my friends is 1.1 (if this makes any difference as both boards look almost the same). I am not sure where the issue resides. Does anyone have any ideas for me to try? Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I recently turned on my OG Xbox after MANY years in storage (mostly temperature controlled storage) and I had no idea about the issues about the capacitors and so on. The DVD Drive and HDD seems to still be working fine with no issues. All of my old data was still there and I wanted to save the data to a memory card. I have learned that it is possible to save the data to a USB as well, but I think it might require a Softmod or something. The Fan still blows heat normally so it appears to be cooling the unit properly. Sadly I can't get the data from the drive at the moment. I tried to show plenty of pictures below as well. I have a few questions and concerns. Shortly after plugging in the unit I heard: -- 2 pops, but the console turned on and ran fine for a while (XB Dashboard and within a game). -- After a while my video went fuzzy\scrambled, reset and it started to FRAG during the game. (2 resets and Red\Green blinking) with no video). -- No smoke\smell or anything and I was able to open the tray to remove my disk. -- Same results after hard reset (FRAG). I did some research and learned more about the capacitor issue. I didn’t know any of this stuff before. I saw 2 busted capacitors from what I can see (those 2 pops). -- The Clock capacitor, which I eventually removed + cleaned the area (top and bottom) -- The PSU appears to have one leaking capacitor. Clock Capacitor: Battery Cap Leak - https://i.postimg.cc/jdfhZk4D/Fresh-leak.jpg Acid Corrosion - https://i.postimg.cc/BnGBycmM/Corroding-leak.jpg Battery Leak Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/9QtYjRSV/Cleaned.jpg Bottom of board Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/sfqcPR7F/Bottom-Cleaning.jpg Not knowing any better I let the clock “acid” sit there for a few days before cleaning because I was thinking about sending it in for repairs or something, but after reading more I decided to open it up and remove the Clock cap. It was pretty much corroded at this point and the leaked acid started to look horrible on my board. I cleaned it with 91% alcohol + Q-tips. For the corrosion I also scrapped some of the left over residue and kept wiping the entire area gently. The spill traveled further than I originally though. I checked the bottom of the board and saw a light cloudy color, but nothing too serious so I cleaned it up as well. Since the board was opened I decided to clean\wipe down the entire board from top and bottom. The board was in great condition, not too dirty\dusty, but since I had it opened….why not right? Power Supply Unit: PSU Cap Leak A - https://i.postimg.cc/Fs0jjkhc/PSU-Capacitor-lea-A.jpg PSU Cap Leak B - https://i.postimg.cc/447vxFMW/PSU-Capacitor-leak-B.jpg PSU Cap Leak C - https://i.postimg.cc/W1ngyRF1/PSU-Capacitor-leak-C.jpg PSU Cap Leak D - https://i.postimg.cc/8CzMQyMB/PSU-Capacitor-leak-D.jpg PSU Cap Leak E - https://i.postimg.cc/j27y3LNp/PSU-Capacitor-leak-E.jpg PSU Bottom A - https://i.postimg.cc/PfgWpQnT/PSU-Bottom-A.jpg PSU Bottom B - https://i.postimg.cc/P5h1Kfq7/PSU-Bottom-B.jpg Based on my research I have an Xbox v1.3 revision. The PSU capacitor leak looks fine on the bottom of the PSU and it appears that I have one of the “reinforced” PSUs that should not spark or cause a potential fire due the power connector\solder joint issue (constant insertion and removal of the power cable from what I’ve learned so far). Also, I did NOT wipe the PSU clean\wipe down top and bottom and honestly I didn’t want to touch it. Can someone tell me how long it takes for the PSU to drain and becomes much safer to handle? I know that PSUs (not just OG Xbox’s) can hold a charge for a very long time after being unplugged. I never touched it while cleaning the Clock capacitor leak. I let it (PSU) sit for roughly 10 days so I suppose it was safe to handle. I wasn't going to touch it, but I wanted to check the bottom of the PSU to see if there was any damage. I pretty much pulled it out and re-installed it by using the cabling and not even touching the damn thing. I have a Foxlink PSU, but I wanted to replace it with another one of the three brands. I believe they are interchangeable from what I’ve read. I noticed that the cable “color” was a bit different on the Delta, but the pinouts are the same I believe. I have the OG Xbox surge protector on the way just to be safe. Before investing into another PSU I was wondering what could be the harm in plugging in my current Foxlink with the leaking capacitor that already popped just to check and “see” if the console boots with no errors. If it boots to the Dashboard then I could turn it off and place the order for a replacement unit. Any potential issues with trying this before spending money on a PSU? Also I'd like to know an estimated amount of time that the PSU can hold a charge.

Hey, Im a new member. Nice to meet yall. Hopefully i will get to know lots about the og xbox and have a good time. (English not my language, but i will do my best) So i have a problem and perhaps i could get some assistance here. I was gifted an og xbox, it was to be taken apart piece by piece and i said no no no lets see if i can do something about it. Took it home, power it on and after some attempts sure enough i get image asking for time and date. Deleted all save files and bought a game, game works. When the console is on and working theres no problem whatsoever. So the console works, reads discs and saves to hdd. The console is not modified in any form it seems. I opened it up today for the first time and it has the original 10gb hdd, and the dashboard is stock. I removed the clock capacitor and it now asks for time and date. It had not leaked as far as i could tell. Looked around, did not see anything bizarre, just some dust. But i know nothing about this really so its my guess is it was ok, but im not sure. All connections seemed secure inside. Also AV cable and power chord are firmly in place when FRAG. Console is 1.1 version according to kernel. But it FRAG sometimes, everyday actually. So ill try to explain. If i leave the console alone for a few hours after last session, and come back to power it on, it FRAG. The longer i leave it alone, the harder it is to get it to boot and have video. I have to keep to powering it on and off and eventually it displays video. I get no video when it does FRAG, no error codes. The FRAG is, it tries to boot two or three times, then flashes red and green. Other strange thing is if i keep trying to eject the tray i will get video sooner i believe. So that helps. Also it does a noise, 2 or 3 times. The noise is exactly the noise from this video i found on reddit (in fact this is the same thing happening to my console, to a T, except mine eventually works)(hope the link is not against rules): Im hoping its just the hdd dying because i intend to softmod and install a 2tb i have laying around. That im able to do. But im a noob so i dont know how to read voltages, solder and all that stuff. But if there is anything simple i could do to try to fix this, im all ears. Ill have a look around the forum to try and see all the good info around. Thanks a lot in advance! Cheers

Hello, I have had a1.4 xbox with a duox modchip (v1) and I'm a little confused about how I can flash it. I bought this xbox pre chipped 15+ years ago and I've never touched anything past keeping exox dashboard updated. I took it out of storage after a good few years, I would guess I've not used it bar the odd nostalgic game session (It's part of a setup in my living room with an OG xbox a 360 and a series x on shelves) in around 10 years so I have no idea what the latest best things are. Also the xbox came with an 80GB hard drive installed. I have purchased a xbox-HDMI adapter (powered by usb) because my TV has 3 hdmi ports and that's it. literally nothing else. This works. I have an issue with my dvd drive in that the band need replacing, can't get more for a another 2 weeks. In the meantime is it possible to flash the chip without a disc? some places seem to say I must have a dvd and others allude to not needing a disk. I've been researching this for hours and just decided to ask on here. it works ok but I didn't flash the bios so I have never done it before. I was looking at increasing the capacity further but may need a bios flash. in avox settings the BIOS is unknown. So in short, what is the "goto" Bios and dashboard nowadays? Is it possible to do without a DVD drive? Could I do it by stripping the xbox DVD drive putting a disk in and reassemble? If I desperately need to? Bit drastic but I can't do anything for a few weeks. A bit of a bonus question. I had a game of FIFA 2003 last night and it played strange. Like it was sped up. Best description is like an emulator running at 1.5-2x speed. Some games don't boot. I don't know where to start with testing it. If anyone has an idea I'd appreciate it. EDIT: So I've backed up using evox. FTPd it to my PC. I noticed a bios folder. It has 3 files "EvolutionX M7 Bios.nfo" "EvoxM7_ef.bin" and "EvoxM7.bin" I can guess which previous version was. Can I just replace them and flash latest bios from evox launcher then?

As the title states I have a 1.6 xbox that after lcp rebuild and mod chip install it reads hexen and works for a few mins then frags...I have capacitor and transistor replacements on the way ..but really curious as to what could be causing it photos will follow. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xgfbhusv4f6h2ff/AAAotnIs2jHOwIA_JFidW-Iba?dl=0

Looking for _Resources for the following emulators, if anyone is able to offer up any boxart or images? MameOx WinSTonX And not so much (see my previous post): Kawa-X CPX3 Anyone who has any old boxart for these squirreled away from the past would be grateful if you could share.

2nd picture will be in the comment. i'll let y'all know how these work out. they look pretty nice.

Just got 3 xbox for $6.35 Canadian. Two are booting in so far. Gonna be a fun night cleaning and replacing heatsink grease. Wish me luck

SO when I turn it on, it starts and stops a few times before it finally gets going and then when it does I get no image or sound and the light just flashes red and green. At first I thought it was my IDE adapter on my new hard drive, but when I replaced the unnamed brand one with a startech it still did it. To be clear, my xbox DOES work if I keep fucking with the power button and I can play games normally (Have not extensively tested to see if it randomly shuts off or anything after a long period of time. Anyone know what the problem could be?

Hi, I'm new here. I had something to do with the xbox a very long time ago, I think in 2004. I was looking for a good site and I think I have a xbox and I wanted to change it with tsop. But there are questions one should take HeXen CD I can unfortunately not download my contributions are limited to 5 pieces per day. Excuse my bad english i always let it translate. With many things I always read : " Sorry, you aren't permitted to download this file. " greetings to all

Cool video about xbox development, i wonder what your thoughts are, and has anyone got more of this content to share? I'm curious about what PC ports exist and what may have been possible Just read through RandySlims post here, he has a good list of games... nice to run into 'digthatbox' again... its outside of my oxbox TUNNELVISION so i guess i forgot about it