Magicaldave

FOR BLOODY SCIENCE M8 Actually I happened on the idea because I accidentally found an M.2>SATA adapter. I’m curious to see, though, if an NVMe would function at all, less than to see any performance benefit. There is, as you’ve mentioned in other posts, hardly even a difference in performance for ANY data-based disk because the bottleneck here is very very severe. I wonder that daisy-chaining adapters in the necessary manner wouldn’t introduce more latency in the first place. But that’s what we all said to the guys who first brought up the idea of installing SSDs and water cooling in the first place, no?

Oh, yeah, I mean even a 5400rpm SATA’s gonna saturate the hell out of that IDE bus, and any possible latency issues would be resolved on a SATA ssd. So using an NVME/SATA M.2 would really just be for funsies. IF it worked at all.

But wait... there’s mount points for standoffs on the bottom of the Pcb. Looks like it could be used either as an add-in or replacement?

Me and a couple buds were joking around over a couple dead boards and got to talking about SSDs. The fact that we even use SATA SSDs is a bit overkill already, but are there any confirmed reports of someone using an M.2/NGFF SSD in an Xbox? Sure, a decent sized drive is probably worth more than a fully kitted out console, but it sounds like a fun idea.

Add a picture of the chip and post the serial. Maybe we can glean more. I’m not even aware of dev boards with 2MB flash.

Hm. Guess it’s time to learn how to work on an Aladdin chip. They look a lot easier than this 10-wire BS anyway. Edit: would you happen to have a link on the 1.5 LPC rebuild? I know it’s not as involved as a 1.6 but still has to be done, right?

In purely technical terms there’s almost no difference between methods, but I’d go with the “lazy” route you described first just because injecting files onto a FatX drive has always been a major pain for me. Last time I did it it required manually creating and naming each folder along with dragging and dropping all the files one by one. Using the latest version of HDM would probably be ideal, but it has compatibility issues just like earlier versions and, well, you DID already build the drive.

WELP, There goes the rest of my weekend. Been looking for an excuse to finally finish Vagrant Story. Thanks!!!

No, I mean injecting the .cfg directly into the bios with IND-config so that the config file doesn’t need to sit on the hard drive in the first place. I don’t really see myself fiddling with the options much at all after I work out the color scheme.

Do you know if an X2.1Lite will boot on a 1.5? I can’t attach a screenshot atm but I have an old modchip list that shows this chip doesn’t work on consoles past the 1.2 rev. Maybe just because of changes to the LPC, though?

I did try that, but there’s still a decent delay after the .cfg is loaded where it just sits on a black screen. So I decided to keep the “X” screen and skip the flubber as it seems to be about the same. I think I’d get more out of directly objecting the cfg but I keep hearing conflicting reports on whether that actually bricks the console or not.

Hey guys! A friend brought me a dead console he found somewhere. I can’t post any pictures at the moment, but it looks to be a 1.5. It... doesn’t have a TSOP chip for some reason. In fact, the pads for it have been removed altogether. Can anything be be done with this? I have an old Xecuter 2.1 lite I could slap in if it’s worth the trouble. The chip’s been laying around for quite a while anyway.

Nah. At this point you don’t need the Pc at all. Softmod the console, you should see the space. If you don’t for some reason, use XBpartitioner to create the F:/ partition or just extend E:/. Keep in mind extending the E:/ partition will destroy all, if any, data stored in it.

Hey guys! I recently picked up a 1.5/128 console and am looking to trick it out as much as humanly possible. First on my list is customizing the boot logos. I’ve managed to alter the “microsoft” text basically using MS paint, but the “XBOX” text above seems a bit trickier. (My friend and I both have 4-letter names, so I’m sure you can see where this is going) I found some sample files and a guide posted by Rocky5 but the date on the guide is from 2004 and references 3DSMAX 6, which I can hardly even find mentions of on the web, let alone a functional copy. Has anyone tried this recently? Particularly in Blender? I’m pretty savvy but have absolutely no experience in modeling so would appreciate any help that can be given. Also: would love to have some insight into custom Flubber models as well. Thanks team! Actually last edit this time: ASSUMING your config is functional, is there a version of IND wherein the config file can be injected without killing the console? I’m not sure but I think mine is on 5003. Minimizing startup times is another major goal of this build (WOW does this BIOS boot fast /w no DVD!!)

Not that I’ve ever been a man to talk someone out of a perfectly good mod, but you could potentially achieve the same effect just dual-booting with Rocky5. Honestly that’s why I’ve not yet done this mod, as I don’t have enough stuff to even justify a 2tb drive, let alone two separate drives. I think all of my emulated content adds up to about 60gb, and that’s multiple rom sets! Most of that space is ps1 games that don’t really work anyway. The really interesting part of this mod is what to do with the case. Would love to see how you handle that. If you use 2.5 inch drives that would probably be ideal as you could sandwich them into the standard enclosure with nothing but Velcro. That’s how I go about installing SSDs in mine. Pro tip: if you use an ssd remove the sticker. The Velcro is way stronger than the sticker on the drive XD

This looks cool but what’s the use case exactly? Replacing the M$-USB with a standard one?

Yeah, that thread on the topic was really messy, wasn’t it? If we’re talking about the same thread here the mod isn’t intended to have a dvd drive in the console (at this point why would you even want one?) although it’ll probably work if you get a 4/5 connector IDE cable. The above diagram should help. The “micro interruptor” is a switch. Maybe the name is just translation issues. Take the 4-pin molex connector from the console’s power supply and cut off the actual connector. Solder red and yellow wires to middle switch poles as above. Take two more molex cables, keeping the connectors this time. Jam ‘em into desired hard drives. As before, attach the red/yellow to either side of the switch. Repeat for second drive. Once this is done run the middle two black wires on each drive to the two blacks directly from the psu. Make sure ALL HARD DRIVES ARE SET TO MASTER AND CONNECTED TO IDE. So what you should end up with is two HDDs and an ODD plugged into the system, with only one HDD ever powered on at a time. This is the function of the switch. The LEDs are just there to steal a bit of power so you can tell which drive you’re booting from. Using two hard drives AT THE EXACT SAME TIME however isn’t possible. This is more like switching BIOS banks on a modchip or early rev console with 1MB TSOP. Edit: out of curiosity, whatcha want two drives for? Entire NYSC collection will fit on a single drive. Got lotsa movies?

Not really. The stock Xbox PSU pushes more power than the system really needs and offers plenty of places to steal power directly from the board. You can use the LPC port, dvd drive connectors, fan headers, or just directly bridge stuff from the PSU. Even the controller ports, really. If for some reason that’s not actually enough you can basically just jam a couple resistors onto an ATX PSU and roll with it. But I hesitate to say you’d get much from this other than maybe some overclocking headroom that the Xbox board won’t Properly support with its VRMs anyway.

Probably a bit of both. Those GPU fans installed on the early consoles are insanely loud. You could just try to unplug the fan and see if the noise is still happening. Console might overheat after a bit but it'll just shut down for a bit.

Didn't quite make it this far, but did manage to fix it! When I ran NKPatcher I took a look at the description for this and it mentioned that the "install kernel fonts" option should be used first. So, I did! Startup seems a bit slower after the X logo now but doesn't fail at any point as before. So strange. I have 8 working consoles in different places for different reasons, all cloned from the same original drive, but only ever saw this happen when I decided to move to SSD. Thanks Kaos and team!

Hey guys! I've got a couple boxes I threw some SSDs into recently and they don't load the dash, but as it says on the tin, only every OTHER time I turn it on. Startup works normally up until AFTER the "X" logo. Either the LED will stay solid green, and the screen will just be completely black forever (to be fair, only ever left it for about and hour while I was doing other stuff for giggles) OR the LED goes solid red like I've set it and loads UnleashX A-okay. Things both run like a champ in this state, haven't seen anything unusual, even the temps are great with stock paste. This happens with: - 2 brand new ADATA ASU655SS-480GT-C units, both of which were cloned from an IDE-based box with a 750GB seagate. The system they were cloned from was 1.6, softmodded with SID5, then upgraded to Rocky5. No issues on that console. These drives have NOT been tested in other functional consoles. Yet. - Three 80-wire IDE cables, two of which were running active duty in other consoles prior to testing and one of which died for some reason during the test. - Four IDE-SATA adapters - an HDE, a Startech IDE2SAT, and 2 Startech IDE2SAT2s (I haven't gone through the trouble of comparing ALL adapter and cable combos but at this point I don't think it matters) - A 1.4 and 1.6 version console - UnleashX Version 0.39.0528A Build 584, as installed by Rocky5's softmod The fact that the LED stays green on the failed boot seems like the system somehow things everything is normal and the SSD has just... stopped? Somewhere? I'm not sure. I think maybe this could be related to the BIOS or DVD drive, as both consoles are only softmodded. I plan to TSOP the 1.4 anyway, but I can't TSOP the 1.6 or (easily) remove its DVD drive, which I'm not inclined to do anyway as it works great. Wondering if anyone had some suggestions I perhaps haven't tried yet. Thanks so much for any and all assistance!

Early versions of chimp DO STILL WORK but I'd strongly recommend using CHIMP 261812. https://github.com/Rocky5/Chimp261812 All the instructions you need to get it up and running should be there. When you FTP, make sure the "Transfer Type" is set to Binary or it might crash. Fundamentally we're talking about the same app, but 261812 has some additional niceties, is way easier to use, and also has some nice features to prevent making mistakes like unlocking your master hdd on accident. I once killed a 750GB IDE by hot swapping at the wrong time using the earlier version. 261812 makes this nice and easy by giving you an INSERT SLAVE DRIVE NAO screen that lets you know exactly when to do it. EDIT: Haven't tested this too in-depth, but never noticed a negative difference in startup times using a SATA HDD, so long as you've the right adapter and 80-wire cable, but you're a lot less likely to just have all three of those lying around.

As long as we're talking about original xbox games, ISO versions tend to be larger and much less practical to play. You can acquire your own ftp-ready versions or use an app like Qwix to extract the games from XISO format into folders which you can then FTP to the console. If you extract them yourself, you'll have to remove things like language files and demos on your own, whereas this may have already been done with a downloaded version. PS1 images I believe are supposed to use .img or .bin format. Keep 'em that way. Or as .iso, as long as it works in your emulator of choice.

This is pretty cool but the hardware seems hard to get. Might be better to rig up /w a raspberry pi.

If speed is a factor here, also ensure you’re using big an 80-wire, 40-pin Ultra ATA cable of about 18” or 24” and maybe consider removing your dvd drive as well.