Magicaldave

Hey guys, sorry if I put this in the wrong section but wasn’t sure where it fit. Basically, trying to figure out how to operate without running Windows for a bit. 1) I cannot get Chimp261812 to run if I FTP from something other than windows. I tried FileZilla in the latest macOS and Ubuntu MATE, and plain old file explorer and FileZilla in windows. I heard a couple other reports of this and thought it was total bs until I actually did it. 2) I need to use Xboxhdm to hook up and build some new drives soon for a couple dead consoles. Does anyone know if Rocky5’s xboxhdm23 works through WINE? I have an entire Windows install just for these two things, would love to be able to eliminate it.

Hey, so if your BIOS is hosed on a 1.0/1.1 Xbox you can do some very very easy solder work to actually switch BIOSes. The earlier versions of Xbox had 4x256KB BIOSes flashed onto the 1mb bios chip. https://www.xbox-hq.com/html/xbox-tutorials-226.html Rip up an Ethernet cable and hit the underside of the board with it and a soldering iron, might be worth a shot. (Please don’t literally smack your board with an iron) How do you know the board is a 1.0 though? Maybe post the serial number.

I have to admit I’m genuinely confused by this as I’ve got a TSOP’ed console I just upgraded from SID like two weeks ago. Perhaps this is specifically in reference to chipped consoles? Either way, if your console is chipped Rocky5’s ain’t gonna get you much you don’t already have. *maybe* dual-boot functionality if it’s a lower end chip. Plus rocky’s Ain’t saving you from keyed HDDs, whereas your chip/TSOP will.

I know this is really not-picky, but those MSI IDE cables look killer. Do you have a link for them?

Pretty much! Installing to the right folder is important. Otherwise, CHIMP itself will mostly walk through the process for you. If you’re upgrading to a SATA drive and have a lot of data on your original, make sure to install the 80-wire cable for your upgraded drive for the clone. It can make an unrealistically long clone into an overnight process. To to install a new dash as your primary, or dual-boot a dash, you can just boot the extras disc and choose the “dashboards” option. The extras disc also has an option to upgrade your current softmod to Rocky5, although I’m not certain as to whether or not this works properly on a hardmodded console. I’d generally suggest it, in the event it doesn’t somehow damage the function of your console. Don’t see why it would though.

Dead post, but there are easy ways to do that these days. If you’ve got a raspberry pi and want to upgrade your hdd in the process, there are guides for first dumping your hdd key onto your raspberry pi, and also for cloning it using the latest version of xboxhdm.

OP says X3 is disabled but I can’t tell if it was enabled at some point? if there are issues reading the EEPROM outside of the EEPROM itself booting from a modchip might tell you more.

Either of the two adapters you’ve linked are both driven by the Marvell 88SA8052 chipset. That’s what’s necessary for the best compatibility. Although, the DeLock adapter has an additional LED. My star tech adapter has slots for one if you really want it, but Inprefer not to have one. There’s lots of docs out there about the actual cloning process, thanks to Rocky5 it’s pretty easy these days.

So basically it seems like there aren’t a ton of solutions to this. I hear Win3 can run on DosXbox, so i May try that. I found the files on my hdd were literally just all the different versions of Win3, nothing too useful XP on QEMU seems kind of silly on a stock console. Win95/98 seem as if they were possible at one point using an app called “98lite” and more QEMU. However, I cannot locate the files required for this. More exploration needed.

I took a look at this last night on my system and found something called “Windows 3 versions” that didn’t boot shortly before I started an HDD clone. I’ll come back later once I can crawl the files and report what I find. I’m probably missing something. I’ve read various tuts online about running Windows 98 but can’t locate any of those files. As far as Windows XP goes, I *have* seen that running on an upgraded Xbox in DSL via QEMU but it ran like arse. Plus the original uploaded has never explained how to do it.

Hey guys! Title explains it all. I'm trying to track down this old package I saw on ISOZONE once. I had it installed on my box before and now can't use the machine it's currently saved onto. Was hoping someone here had/used it. Thanks!

Definitely so, maybe humidity. I have two 1.1 consoles, a 1.0, and a 1.5 here in OK, all of which are subject to bad clock cap leakage. Picked Up a couple 1.5’s from the west coast and they’re the cleanest boards I’ve ever seen. Also no need for clock cap replacement on 1.6. They *should* be okay...

As long as your chip is installed properly, it’s the only thing you can flash on the console. From what I see, the Aladdin chips have a 256k bios, so when you boot HeXen, make sure you pick a 256k BIOS and just before you actuallu flash it will tell you what chip is being flashed. I’m not sure what it will be for your chip, but if you take a close look at the name it should be fairly obvious if it’s your Aladdin or your Xbox that’s getting flashed. If it’s your Xbox chip you should check your modchip install. Xbox chips are usually Sharp, Winbond, Hyundai, Samsung, there are a few others, I’m sure.

No probs! If you’re looking into a hard drive mod, I prefer applying the TSOP mod as most modded BIOSes don’t require a dvd drive, you can just drop in a new drive in the dvd drive slot and run chimp to clone and lock your drive without hotswap. Hotswap isn’t too bad, but I killed a drive once doing it. You can can also use xboxhdm If you have an old pc with an IDE drive. Also, since you’re most likely using a SATA hard drive in the upgrade, make sure you use an 80-wire IDE cable and preferably the Startech SATA to IDE adapter. The HDE adapters work but in-game reset doesn’t work on the consoles I’ve used them with. Good luck!

Yes, gotta lock the drive. Depending on your BIOS I think you can boot HeXen or Rocky5 if you have issues with the lock. Also, I find xboxhdm to be finicky. It has only ever worked for me using an actual IDE bus on whatever PC you’re attaching to. Make sure to try all ports if you haven’t already. Also it doesn’t support 2TB drives. If you have a working console with a no-dvd BiOS, You could try to pop in your desired drive and clone /w chimp.

I’ve not been “in” the scene but I’ve been following it for a long time and can say it was pretty sad. But it you know what? It’s not something that really even *can* be defeated. Mod/ROM/Emu sites are honestly in as much danger as they were 4-5 years ago. It’s all PR. Yeah, publishers and going all gung-ho on ROM sites but they really didn’t do much but take down one and scare off the next two-four most popular ones. ISOZONE has already been backed up and I’m not sure but think it’s replacement may already be running. Even if not, go try to find some ROM. Any ROM, any search engine. I doubt you’ll have much trouble. The internet - and the world - are way too large to really ferret out everyone who backs up and then redistributes this content. It’s too easy compared to the Herculean effort required to renew licensing deals for a lot of these games. A few good examples - Azurik, Blinx, Brute Force, and Conker. M$ isn’t even gonna sell you those. There’s no margins there after all the work. Xbox as a whole is a good example as there are plenty of publishing houses and devs that worked on that system that are just *gone*. Who’s gonna sell you those? Nobody. But I bet if you name almost any game you wanna play on your OG Xbox there’s a dozen or more people in the scene somewhere or another who’ll help you get it. IF you can’t still find it online. Personally I’d prefer a world without piracy but funnily enough, copyright protection puts software publishers in such a place that it’s almost impossible not to foster piracy after a point. Developers deserve credit for the HARD work they put in to make amazing games for us. That said, paying some eBay scalper $400 for a copy of Conker’s Bad Fur Day doesn’t do dick for Rare, and that same example can be extended pretty far.

Technically yes, but a better way to achieve this would be to rewrite the HDD key in the EEPROM of both Xboxes to all zeroes. This way you don’t have to back up (or really even know) the key to recover from failure and swap at your leisure.

I guess it depends mostly on what chip you have. Personally, unless it’s a 1.6, I would pull the chip and replace with a solid TSOP, then zero the HDD key. It is easier to install a replacement drive with a chip, but if you have a spare chip running around, it also makes it that much easier to recover from a drive failure or some terrible BIOS issue, or other mods in the future. Tl;dr, if this is your only system and don’t plan future mods, leave it alone.

For what it’s worth, I’ve used both adapters and a couple others on different chipsets without much issue. Your drive model seems compatible based on some quick Google fu, and you mentioned the 80 wire cable so maybe it is the HDE adapter. Those things really are trashy. I’ve heard some users complain that the adapters would kill whatever drives they were attached to. If you do keep the HDE adapter for one system or another, keep in mind it’ll initialize slow as balls and hurt startup times, maybe even kill your in game reset.

It depends a lot on what you mean. Hard mod can be anything from a TSOP flash to a mod chip to an HDMI port or PSU shrink or anything, really. Basic steps, don’t be scared of the box, ground yourself on something, and get comfortable with a soldering iron. If you’re not exactly sure what mod to start with, this site has an excellent guide on TSOP flashing. Also look into http://www.biline.ca/xbox_mod.html Also, if you haven’t already, use Rocky5’s CD for the softmod. A lot of people still use SID/AID/who knows what and it tends to be filled with old crap. The TSOP flash mod is pretty simple and will give most of the benefits of a mod chip (hacked BIOS, no dvd, zero out hdd key for EZ replacement) A tip for this one: use the HeXen 2018 CD found on this site and *try* to flash a 256k Bios to check exactly which flash chip you have. Just before the BIOS actually gets flashed, it’ll tell you which TSOP you have. If it is a Winbond or Sharp, go back and use the sharp/Winbond TSOP option in HeXen. Visual inspection will not always work here, and if you get a corrupt BIOS on your system it’s a bad time. The coolest mods out there, some of which can be found on this site, are really personal to you. Desperate for HDmi? Multiple guides for that. Wanna use a PC power supply? Schematic’s on this site. maybe you have a bunch of wireless controllers and you’re tired of the adapters sticking out of the front. Maybe you want two hard drives because reasons. Think of something you like, even if it’s out there, and try it. Almost anything can be added or upgraded on these systems. Mini-LCDs, built-in displays, extra RAM, wi-fi... it goes on until you get tired of it. The only thing i know of that ISN’T possible on these systems is a GPU upgrade.

@NooB check this out, https://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/using-xboxhdm-updated-2018.1902/ has a pretty good write up on using xboxhdm to rebuild a drive from scratch. You might need need to use xplorer360 to find the eeprom.bin on your Xbox drive... make sure you do NOT format or do anything funky with the drive when connected to your pc. https://www.afterdawn.com/software/system_tools/manage_external_devices/xplorer360.cfm will allow you to browse the FatX drive like you would any other. Not sure where your EEPROM.BIN would be as it depends on what installer you used.

Depends on what exactly the behavior is. Does it restart at all? Do do you get video? Any error codes onscreen if so? Finally, check this out to determine exactly what your LED is doing. If you’ve had the thing for a while HDD failure or clock cap fluid leaking are common reasons for a FRAG.

Not much of an update, but I did manage to change the behavior somewhat. I replaced the original PIC thinking maybe there was an issue with compatibility or just bad installation, and also reflowed some of the nearby ICs in case there was an issue there. First time I powered the system on, just shorted the power pin and it stayed on. No reboot. Okay... Came back a few minutes later and powered it on, then it rebooted once. Third reboot, it’s back to rebooting three times. At this point I’m only working with the board so I hooked up a P/E board to see what the LED is doing. Solid green the entire time. No G/O as for missing cable, no G/R for missing drive and whatnot. Thought this his might be an extension of the original corrupted BIOS (removed my bodge wire just in case) and replaced the wire on back... and my PSU exploded because I accidentally sat it on some desoldering braid. Sigh. I have an extra PSU and fortunately the board looks okay, but it’ll be a day or two before I can get at my parts.

Took a closer look at the board, “50” is actually C6C9. Didn’t think 50 seemed right... the 089 resistor is pictured above as R6C6 and R6B8. Not sure that was actually the problem. I looked the board up and down about a dozen times and could only find four, two on each side, around pin 30 on each RAM module. The 1.1 I scrapped has three left, so I guess I was just being kinda clumsy and the resistor ended up in my parts tray? I tried rerunning some of the components and lost a pad, so I ended up creating a really miserable bodge to pin 53 to fix the ram errors I was getting, so it’s a mess now but that data line works okay The voltages on pin 20 of the PIC are good but I’m not sure what to do with this. I followed the trace for a while and it just goes under the PIC? R6C2 gets 2.6V as do a lot of the caps nearby. It splits that into 1.33V, then R6C1, C6C2, C6C3, and C6D3 receive this current and all seem to split it again into 12.6mV. C6C1 does the same with 3.3V from the PIC, as do C6B11 and C6C9 with the 2.6V they receive. Unless I’m reason these voltages wrong everything here looks fine? I checked nearby capacitors and resistors for similar function and got exactly the same measurements. There is even a similar array of resistors/capacitors at R5F1 which measures the same. I tried to to follow the source of R6C2’s power onto the other side of the board, but it seemed not to go anywhere. I realize this board is multilayer so am I just not seeing the trace? Edit: I’d thought about installing the mod chip I originally planned to use to fix the hdd, and this gave me the idea to test the lpc port. I dug around the forums and found each of the pins on the lpc port seems to deliver the right voltage but pin 5 only shows 175s after the console stops rebooting instead of 3.3V. Peaks at 2.1 while the system is restarting, is this maybe something to look at? The name LRst leads me to think it’s related to restarts somehow but it doesn’t seem to get quite the right voltage even when that’s the case.

Well, I gave up on the 1.1 and scrapped it’s TSOP, SMC, and RAM chips for later use in case I need them. But the SMC swap killed my 1.0 I just saved. It actually FRAGs now. Three reboots and all. I accidentally removed a few extra components from the board on the SMC swap and attempted to resolder them. This seems to have worked but the Xbox is still dead. Attached are some after pictures. If anyone could help I’d really appreciate it. My 1.1 didn’t have much hope but I just fixed this damn thing... Also, here’s a list of the components onboard I lost: R6C1, R6C2, R6C3, C6C2, 50, C6C1, and C6B11. A couple of these were knocked loose from their original homes, and one (50) was sourced from the 1.1 board. I have a loose component I can neither identify nor find on the 1.0 board which is black and has the text “089” in white letters. Perhaps this is the culprit? thanks again! -Magicaldave