SS_Dave

Good to here L1 is to change the eject led colour when the chip is active so you didn't jump on Xbox Live and get banned for having a modded Xbox and L2 is supposed to flash the eject led when the HDD is active I think. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I have a hard modded 1.6 and X2 Wolverines revenge loads and I was able to start the game with no problems. Some time ago I had a similar problem with one of the car race games and the fix was to load the MS dash and change the language to anything but what it's on now then reboot the Xbox. Then I think you loaded the MS dash again and set it back to English and reboot again and that fixed the game. You may have to launch the game before resetting the language back to English I can't remember. You have nothing to loose by trying this. If you want I can zip the working copy I have on my Xbox and send you a link to download it. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

It's a 1.1 board (12pin power connector and no fan on the GPU) What happens if you use the eject button to power on the Xbox? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

That adaptor is just as bad as the Pound HDMI Get one of these adaptors and cancel the Chimeric systems one. https://electron-shepherd.com/xbox2hdmi/ They are both plug and play and both use the digital audio to give Dolby Digital 5.1 sound over the HDMI lead. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

The easy way to fix it is to get your hands on a hard modded 1.0-1.4 and fit your DouX2 then you can boot the Xbox and re-flash with a 1.6 compatible bios. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Yes Can you test for power at the 12 pin (1.0-1.1) and 20 pin (1.2-1.4) The PowOk wire should have around 3 volt The brown (1.0-1.1) should have 3.3 volt and there should be a 3.3volt STB on the 1.2-1.4 version Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Strange Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Can you post a pic of where the wire on L2 (White wire) is going? I tested this one that someone tried to remove from a board but as it was soldered direct to the board they damaged both the chip and the board. On the 1.0 I tested it on as long as the D0 point on the main board is grounded it loads the bios on the modchip even with DO, BT, L1, L2 not connected on the chip (so just like you see it in this pic ) Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

It is probably best to post some pics of the inside. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Add the link from BT to ground as per the green line and remove the blue wire that is currently on BT At the minimum you remove the wire with the black arrow, I would also remove the two wires with the white arrows, Don't remove the wire with the Yellow arrow. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Let me guess you have a 1.6 and you flashed a 1.0-1.4 bios to it When the chip is untouched one bank is a 1.0-1.4 only bios and the other bank is a EvoxM8 that will work on all versions 1.0-1.6 I am in Australia and can fix it for you but there may be someone closer to you. Or if you can get a 1.0-1.4 with a modchip you can temporary fit the chip in that Xbox and it should boot and then you can re-flash with a EvoxM8 to work with a 1.6. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

The 1st thing I would check is trace damage. If you test the 2 points on the IC in this pic you should get 3 volt then test the 2 points next to the white scocket and you should have 3 volt if there is no reading on the IC then add 2 links by joining the 2 light blue and the 2 purple points. 1.0 -1.1 below Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

The TRAY_IN needs to be held high (3.3 volt) to tell the main board the DVD tray is closed And from memory the CD_RDY need to be held low(0 volt) to tell the main board the CD/DVD is ready. The NEJECT is high (3.3 volt ) until you or send a tray open by pressing the eject. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

When I was repairing DVD and CD players I would test the laser output level with a oscilloscope providing it would at least look at the disk for the TOC other wise replacing with a known working laser was the only other option. If replacing the suspect part didn't fix it then it was a good chance it was the other part, it was always a 50/50 guess. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I had one that when the Xbox was in standby the fan would run And quite a few with the screws 1/2 undone The screws are meant to have Loctite on them but of all the ones I have seen lose none had the blue Loctite. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Looks like one of the screen save file is to big. 01:07:47 M: 3559424 DEBUG: Loading the next image F:\Slideshow\wp9383673-the-legend-of-zelda-4k-wallp.jpg 01:07:47 M: 3543040 SEVERE: DLL: Q:\system\ImageLib.dll : malloc failed, crash imminent (Out of memory requesting 4147216 bytes) Previous line repeats 1 times. 01:07:47 M: 2781184 SEVERE: msg: PICTURE::LoadImage: Unable to open image: F:\Slideshow\wp9383673-the-legend-of-zelda-4k-wallp.jpg Error:Insufficient memory (case 4) (0) 01:07:47 M: 2781184 DEBUG: PICTURE: Error loading image F:\Slideshow\wp9383673-the-legend-of-zelda-4k-wallp.jpg 01:07:47 M: 2781184 DEBUG: We have an error loading a picture! 01:07:47 M: 2781184 ERROR: Error loading the next image F:\Slideshow\wp9383673-the-legend-of-zelda-4k-wallp.jpg 01:07:48 M: 2781184 DEBUG: SECTION:UnloadDelayed(DLL: Q:\system\libexif.dll) Try resizing the file "wp9383673-the-legend-of-zelda-4k-wallp.jpg" Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

You are welcome and good to here you got it working. If you re-install the link J11 it becomes a 100-120 volt AC supply. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

The fuse (Yellow circle) will be blown and it looks like one of the Varistors Z2 (Red circle) is missing and there only job is to hopefully stopping the two main filter caps exploding. When I was testing the PSU's there was 150VDC across the caps each The Varistors are a 150VAC/200VDC on both the 100 and the 220 volt supply's Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

The 5 volt supply on the 1.6 should be fine but in my view it would be better to find a 1.0 - 1.4 supply or repair the original. I did some testing on jap supply (100 volt) when I was looking at the possibility of converting to 240 volt and I accidently blew it up and it was a fuse and a 170 volt surge protector for the main filter cap that failed. I also found J11 is not present on a 220 volt version and adding the link allows the supply to work down to 80volt AC and removing the link on the 110v supply allowed the supply to work at 255 volt AC. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

That one is/was repairable and can be converted to 220 volt by removing the link J1 The 1.6 PSU wont have the required 3.3volt current to run a 1.0-1.4 without a larger 5v to 3.3v regulator with proper filtering and heat sink. The 1.0-1.4 needs a 3.3volt 4.8 amp power on supply and a 3.3 v 75ma standby supply Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I would use a partition wipe program on you PC to fully remove any trace of the Xbox and then use Fatxplorer v3.0 beta to format for the Xbox. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

You are better off finding the correct PSU. https://xboxdevwiki.net/Power_Supply The 1.0 - 1.4 PSU all have the same outputs and you could either make a adaptor lead or rewire the 12 pin/20 pin connectors to suit the Xbox. The 1.6 PSU is only suitable for the 1.6 board. Can you post a pic of the 1.0-1.1 PSU that has failed? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

What dash are you trying to boot? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Is the hard drive from a soft modded Xbox? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I have used he EvoXM8 set to no DVD on all versions and on modchips and onboard bios with no problems. You can test by unplugging the 40 pin IDE and leave the yellow power lead connected and see if it boots Ok I add a link in the DVD power connector that tells the mother board the DVD tray is closed. Like this. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.