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FrostyMaGee

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Everything posted by FrostyMaGee

  1. FrostyMaGee
    Here’s what I have on the caps to replace. They’re all surface mount and you’ll need to note the polarity when removing the old ones. Magnification will help you a lot. Also tweezers. Samsung 605F Location Value Volt Dimensions 3 C105, C117, C502 220uf 6v 6.3x6mm SMD 1 C514 100uf 16v 6.3x6mm SMD 1 C221 47uf 6v 5x5.36mm SMD You may also want to check the resistor arrays behind the IDE interface as noted here. and here There are quite a few guides on soldering smd caps on YouTube such as this one I just ran across. Hope this is helpful. Best of luck in your repairs.
  2. FrostyMaGee
    The white on the PSU is most likely an adhesive placed there on purpose if I had to guess based on your description. That’s normal but definitely compare to some others or post a pic here. As for the recap Fringle suggested…check the caps around the cpu heat sink. They should be in these locations C1E1, C2E1, C2E2, C2E5, C3E2. The 1.1 has five 1500 microfarad 6.3v caps there that tend to cause issues. A full recap would be best but I’d start there and then address any others on the mobo that look vented, leaking, etc. Unrelated you’ll want to remove or replace your clock cap.
  3. FrostyMaGee
    Yeah as bowl mentioned magnification (even if it’s just a glass lens), helping/third hand is helpful, and tweezers are a must. Easiest way starting out with a soldering iron for this is basically cleaning off the pads for the area and dry tacking one end while you have the component placed. That’ll hold it in place so the can the solder the other side as normal then hit the side you dry tacked as well. It’s quite easy once you’ve done a couple. The biggest impediment is that it’s small but magnification, steady hand, and a little patience will overcome this part. Best of luck!
  4. FrostyMaGee
    Yep. Cupric chloride or ferric chloride will do it. If I recall correctly cupric chloride was the best choice and what I mostly used way back in the day.
  5. FrostyMaGee
    That was my thought as well, Bowl. Caps are the biggest point of failure on the psu. Replace those and some others and it’s pretty close to new in my experience. With the exception of some catastrophic failure beforehand of course.
  6. FrostyMaGee
    The old school hobby way was basically taking a board, stenciling on your circuit diagram, and dipping it in some acid. Lol. Board complete! If you did it right. Lol
  7. FrostyMaGee
    Just to interject…could you not just take another old psu and recap it? Many of us have done that and the parts that really wear out are readily available from good resources and inexpensive. The atx adapter is definitely cool but it’s basically made of similar components. If we are looking at it that way it’s all really replaceable even if you stick to the og Xbox form factor per se. Not trying to be antagonistic mind you. Just playing devil’s advocate. If you figure out the atx replacement I’d definitely be interested in the process as it’s always nice to have those options!
  8. FrostyMaGee
    I was reading about it this afternoon on Reddit. I definitely want to download and check out how it works and take a look at all the files. I look forward to seeing what others do with this ability in the future! I might even play around with it myself.
  9. FrostyMaGee
    Well that sucks. Sorry it didn’t work dude. I wish we could figure out what’s up with some of these that have this issue. They seem to be becoming more prevalent.
  10. FrostyMaGee
    That’s why I was thinking coma console in this case. As Bowl mentions it could be a lot of things. Reading your post though it reminded me of a 1.0 I had that did the same. I was able to remedy it with that by forcing the Xbox to use other banks. Wanted to mention it as a possible fix.
  11. FrostyMaGee
    For capacitors definitely go with Mouser Electronics or Digikey if you’re US based.
  12. FrostyMaGee
    Hmm. Have you double checked for any shorting or solder splashes that might be causing that? My other thought is “coma console”. If it turns out to be that there was a trick for the 1.0 that could wake it up so to speak but it required some soldering. It basically forces the Xbox to use one of the other banks. Here’s an archived link for it should you need it later. https://web.archive.org/web/20060109124019/http://www.llamma.com:80/xbox/Repairs/ComaConsole.htm
  13. FrostyMaGee
    Were you able to find a suitable replacement mosfet? I may have a 1.6 where this is also the issue but regardless I would like to add it to my list of replacement parts.
  14. FrostyMaGee

    R7D2

    FrostyMaGee replied to arfows's topic in TSOP Flashing

    I’d be interested to know for sure as well!
  15. FrostyMaGee
    Well as you said they’re over 20 years old. The life expectancy of the aluminum electrolytic capacitors ran out a while back. I’d for sure replace the 3300uf 6.3v caps near the cpu but honestly they could all use replacing just due to their age. Also yes they can be bad and still look ok. Usually you see some outward signs but not every time. This probably doesn’t relate to your current issue but just wanted to answer your question about capacitors. I like to replace the caps near the cpu by default regardless of what they look like since they tend to be a common point of failure anyway. When I have time I’ll just do a full board recap all together.
  16. FrostyMaGee

    R7D2

    FrostyMaGee replied to arfows's topic in TSOP Flashing

    I don’t know 100% but I would think you could use the additional open spots for those caps like the older board revs did with 1500uf caps but instead have 2200uf as long as other conditions were met. Going up in microfarad usually isn’t a problem (up as compared to say the five original 1500uf on the older revisions). I can say for sure that you don’t want to go under voltage on those. Slightly over voltage rating is usually ok as well but they definitely need to be at least 6.3v plus the other specs that @KaosEngineer mentioned as they’re also important.
  17. FrostyMaGee
    Congratulations on the new addition!
  18. FrostyMaGee
    You can use XBPartitioner to check the cluster sizes of your partitions.
  19. FrostyMaGee
    I beat you to it! Lol. It would’ve taken me longer to find usually but I had just pulled the psu out of it yesterday so I knew exactly where it was.
  20. FrostyMaGee
    I had a 1.0 laying around in a parts box. I took a pic of the area for comparison.
  21. FrostyMaGee
    I just saw this but wondered if you found what you needed for softmodding or at least a place to start. If not let me know and I’ll see what I can do to help.
  22. FrostyMaGee
    Well at least the 1.4 is being consistent. Lol. It’ll be interesting to see if Stubbs works fine on the modded 1.6 once you get it back.
  23. FrostyMaGee
    Just to clarify on the upgraded cable…this is always necessary when upgrading from the IDE drives. In a nutshell the 80 wire 40 pin cables are high speed and give you a ground between each of the 40 pins to reduce crosstalk thereby preventing signal level corruption at the higher transfer speeds. Not having this cable when you upgrade to a sata drive and adapter can also (and usually does) produce an error 7 on the original Xbox. Anyway, I just wanted to elaborate on why you needed this cable and when.
  24. FrostyMaGee
    Just off the top of my head I’d suggest replacing C1E1, C2E4, and C3E2 (the three near the cpu just in case I didn’t recall all the location codes correctly lol) when you’re replacing the others. They are 3300 microfarad 6.3v and are 10mm diameter by 25mm length for that revision board. These can have a direct effect on your power as well (though in this case there are probably multiple things). They look ok from your pictures but at this point are really old anyway and should be replaced. Since you’ll be replacing some other radial caps already I thought I mention them.
  25. FrostyMaGee
    I’m just seeing a lot of corrosion spots that are worrisome though. Hopefully it’s not too far gone.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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