FrostyMaGee

There’s usually a clear cache option in the mods somewhere. Alternatively I think you can delete files on the X, Y, and Z partitions to clear it out (I’d probably make a backup first) but I’d need to confirm that. I’m leaning towards bad/corrupted ISOs though or as @MadMartigan said bad file transfers could be the culprit. Hopefully you new image tests will produce better results and we will know more from there. If it still has issues with xisos from vimm then I’d definitely swap out the sata adapter and see if that solves the issue. Failing that I’d definitely try @Bowlsnapper idea about a clean hdd install with one of the vimm game images for a test. Any and all will at least get us a step closer to figuring out what’s up. Definitely let us know how it goes. I’m sure we can get it figured out.

Well that’s good at least. Have you tried clearing the cache on your Xbox? Also have you tried an xiso from another source? Possible the ones you have are damaged or corrupt. Edit: Another thought is maybe an issue with the sata adapter itself or the 80 wire 40 pin ide cable replacement.

Depends on the size. See below. 64 GB (with 4 KB clusters) 128 GB (with 8 KB clusters) 256 GB (with 16 KB clusters) 512 GB (with 32 KB clusters) 1 TB (with 64 KB clusters) 2 TB (with 128 KB clusters) 4 TB (with 256 KB clusters) 8 TB (with 512 KB clusters) 16 TB (with 1 MB clusters) It would be interesting to know if any partitions have an ER next to them though. I’ve seen weird stuff happen loading games from a hdd partition with errors. Haven’t seen the dirty disc error but black screens and crashes I have. Anyway, that’s just my first thought in easy things to check.

Out of curiosity have you checked your partitions in xbpartitioner to make sure nothing has an ER next to it and the cluster size is correct?

Yeah that’s within spec from what I recall. Especially under load. As long as it’s under 60C I wouldn’t replace the thermal just yet.

Could you post a pic of the piece of plastic you’re referring to?

I can guarantee i would immediately regret it. Lol

I’ve always been partial to the paste flux over liquid. That’s just a preference of mine. I also usually tell people who are starting out to go with a paste or gel type until they really get the hang of it. When people start out with liquid (having never used anything else) I think they tend to not use enough of it. IMO.

Awesome. Finally a price that’s reasonable! LOL

LOL. Nope. I’ve got better things to do with that amount of money than buy that xbox. That’s a crazy price.

It does. Xbpartitioner will show you cluster size, state, etc of each partition as well as allow you to do other things should you wish. Very useful tool when you need it.

Here’s what I have on the caps to replace. They’re all surface mount and you’ll need to note the polarity when removing the old ones. Magnification will help you a lot. Also tweezers. Samsung 605F Location Value Volt Dimensions 3 C105, C117, C502 220uf 6v 6.3x6mm SMD 1 C514 100uf 16v 6.3x6mm SMD 1 C221 47uf 6v 5x5.36mm SMD You may also want to check the resistor arrays behind the IDE interface as noted here. and here There are quite a few guides on soldering smd caps on YouTube such as this one I just ran across. Hope this is helpful. Best of luck in your repairs.

The white on the PSU is most likely an adhesive placed there on purpose if I had to guess based on your description. That’s normal but definitely compare to some others or post a pic here. As for the recap Fringle suggested…check the caps around the cpu heat sink. They should be in these locations C1E1, C2E1, C2E2, C2E5, C3E2. The 1.1 has five 1500 microfarad 6.3v caps there that tend to cause issues. A full recap would be best but I’d start there and then address any others on the mobo that look vented, leaking, etc. Unrelated you’ll want to remove or replace your clock cap.

Yeah as bowl mentioned magnification (even if it’s just a glass lens), helping/third hand is helpful, and tweezers are a must. Easiest way starting out with a soldering iron for this is basically cleaning off the pads for the area and dry tacking one end while you have the component placed. That’ll hold it in place so the can the solder the other side as normal then hit the side you dry tacked as well. It’s quite easy once you’ve done a couple. The biggest impediment is that it’s small but magnification, steady hand, and a little patience will overcome this part. Best of luck!

Yep. Cupric chloride or ferric chloride will do it. If I recall correctly cupric chloride was the best choice and what I mostly used way back in the day.

That was my thought as well, Bowl. Caps are the biggest point of failure on the psu. Replace those and some others and it’s pretty close to new in my experience. With the exception of some catastrophic failure beforehand of course.

The old school hobby way was basically taking a board, stenciling on your circuit diagram, and dipping it in some acid. Lol. Board complete! If you did it right. Lol

Just to interject…could you not just take another old psu and recap it? Many of us have done that and the parts that really wear out are readily available from good resources and inexpensive. The atx adapter is definitely cool but it’s basically made of similar components. If we are looking at it that way it’s all really replaceable even if you stick to the og Xbox form factor per se. Not trying to be antagonistic mind you. Just playing devil’s advocate. If you figure out the atx replacement I’d definitely be interested in the process as it’s always nice to have those options!

I was reading about it this afternoon on Reddit. I definitely want to download and check out how it works and take a look at all the files. I look forward to seeing what others do with this ability in the future! I might even play around with it myself.

Well that sucks. Sorry it didn’t work dude. I wish we could figure out what’s up with some of these that have this issue. They seem to be becoming more prevalent.

That’s why I was thinking coma console in this case. As Bowl mentions it could be a lot of things. Reading your post though it reminded me of a 1.0 I had that did the same. I was able to remedy it with that by forcing the Xbox to use other banks. Wanted to mention it as a possible fix.

For capacitors definitely go with Mouser Electronics or Digikey if you’re US based.

Hmm. Have you double checked for any shorting or solder splashes that might be causing that? My other thought is “coma console”. If it turns out to be that there was a trick for the 1.0 that could wake it up so to speak but it required some soldering. It basically forces the Xbox to use one of the other banks. Here’s an archived link for it should you need it later. https://web.archive.org/web/20060109124019/http://www.llamma.com:80/xbox/Repairs/ComaConsole.htm

Were you able to find a suitable replacement mosfet? I may have a 1.6 where this is also the issue but regardless I would like to add it to my list of replacement parts.

I’d be interested to know for sure as well!