MadMartigan

Is there a library of xiso files like with the HDD ready and redumps?

You could possibly have something wrong with your AV outlet on the motherboard if you’re experiencing issues with different cables and monitors.

It could be something as simple as a bad game rip or transfer via ftp. Have you tried transferring the files again one at a time with FileZilla or ripping the game again after completely deleting it?

Would love to know what you figure out.

Running speed tests, I definitely get better speeds using cat7 vs cat5. From previous replies it seems cat5 might be the max for the OG Xbox.

If the game didn’t play off HDD drive before, now they do without issue. By definition, flawless is without flaw. I’m just the messenger man. You asked and I delivered an answer. I am in no way arguing semantics. Edit: There is a strong argument that this is even better than what it was designed/intended/coded to do. No more scratches, dirty disc errors, misalignments, degradation, and even shorter load times in some cases.

Well the main advantage for some ppl is as stated before and that is “FLAWLESS”gameplay, including the handful of previous games that had file sizes too large to play from the HDD. So there’s a handful of benefits for you right there lol. It also has the feature to customize your boot animation. It’s a new and steadily updated project aimed at cutting through all the red tape that was obstructing so many things before now. (Behind the curtains) And of course it may possibly support up to 16TB soon as we all know by now. I’m Im sure there’s more that someone else can provide.

Flawless game play with .iso

If continuity checks out there then hopefully some of the wizards here can delve further into it for you. At least that's one thing you can check off the list.

It appears as though you have some trace corrosion and still a little leakage in the pic. If you have a multimeter you should check for continuity on those traces.

I’m sorry for not being more specific. I was speaking in terms of any good programs out there that can format whatever you throw at it.

I’m not the smartest man in the forum, but judging from the video it looks like you could possibly have something else going on with the motherboard. Did you do anything or than soft mod it and was it tested to be a fully functional system beforehand? I realize you’re the sole owner, but they get old and things happen. If it’s not a v1.6 motherboard, have you removed your clock cap and checked for corrosion or any trace damage top and bottom? I have heard of others having to plug the cables in backwards. I’ve never had to do it so I can’t explain why that would be. Seems like it was way the cable was sending the information or something.

And you are saying that there is absolutely no way around that?

Yea it is not acid. I always reflow those boards when I get them as they often have suspect solder joints. It won’t increase load times of them, but will at least bring some to life.

You could try and format the drives and go from there I suppose.

I’d like to piggy back this thread a tad. I have several of the cheap Aladdin XT Plus chips from AliExpress. Seems the reviews on there say that they can’t be flashed. Is this a fact or would the 2 second power option work for those as well? I have not tried in fear of screwing something up. I’m very good at that.

Yeah that’s one small thing a lot of people don’t think of when swapping cases. That pesky extra screw before 1.6 released. Great that you got it fixed. Post a pic of the transistor you replaced. It could possibly help others out in the future.

Here’s a pic of mine. Hope it helps.

I’ve seen great reviews on the simplicity of the conductive ink pen method but mixed opinions on the results of using it. Did you remove the ink after you performed the flash or did you leave it on the board? That was definitely one of the issues people presented on this method. Personally I have never used it so I have no say in the matter. Did you add or remove any files before this error occurred? Did you change any settings such as dashboard? Have you removed the clock cap already and checked for any leakage causing trace damage? You could always screenshot both drives from within the file explorer and compare the files to see what’s missing. I don’t think Installing a mod chip on top of the TSOP will do any good. I think you’d have to remove the TSOP first or the chip won’t boot. That has been my experience. Pretty sure one of the wizards around here would know what has caused this issue

As you can see in the second picture, I somehow missed connecting the D0 pads on the rebuild board. My old eyes just missed it.

PROBLEM SOLVED Can delete thread

This guy did it. And a clean room https://northridgefix.com/product/portable-dust-free-clean-room-with-green-and-white-light/

Hey all. It’s time I start to get rid of some of my pickups over the past year or so. I have around 25 or so, fully working consoles that have all been cleaned and modded. Clock caps removed on all boards under 1.6. I have all different sizes of HDDs in both SATA and IDE from 80GB up to 2TB. SATA options will include the needed adapters and 80 wire cables from Kekule. Everything under 1.6 is TSOP or has a mod chip. Most chips are xecuter 2.3 & 2.6. Prices of course will vary depending on HDD size and type and wether they have a chip or not. Most of them are empty mods waiting for games and emulators of your choice. I can also add those if needed. Again everything is tested and working and will be a clean, fresh mod, without old game saves and such. Couple of these are Crystal edition. For those that just want soft mods, that can be arranged too if you’re not capable or don’t have the necessary tools to do so. I also have 3-4 PAL PSU in different models for those that acquire imports and need replacements LEDs are also optional for controller ports. I also have some pretty cool spare parts that don’t pop up very often. I’d much rather let them go here than dump them on FeeBay. Located in Virginia, USA. Feel free to send a DM or post here directly. Everything needs to go, but I’m not doing lowball deals.

Just installed an Aladdin in a perfectly working 1.6 because I was bored. Install went smoothly and connections are great throughout. However, I’m getting the three boot cycle and then black screen with no audio or video. Any help would be appreciated. I have all day to fiddle with it to try and fix things. I did not cut the L trace and instead have connected to the right leg of the accessible transistor on top to prevent the led from always being on when power is connected. I can’t post a pic because they all end up being over 2mb. Edit: everything stills works as normal with the chip removed from the header so nothing is screwed up internally. I’m thinking maybe a bad chip?

I have 3 or 4 PAL psu that I have no need for if anyone else is interested. I swap them out for NTSC psu when I get imports.