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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/06/2024 in all areas

  1. I've posted a new version of the firmware, here's a list of some things that were added - PlayStation 3 support - PlayStation Classic support (the mini console) - CDC device mode for easier debugging of USB host stuff And controllers I've added support for - Switch Pro - Switch wired - N64 USB gamepads (may need to be updated to account for different brands) - PlayStation Classic Here's the link: https://github.com/wiredopposite/OGX-Mini/releases/tag/v0.2.0
    3 points
  2. Combo to save is “White + Back” and load is “Black + Back” Cerbios uses the triggers in conjunction with these buttons (like all other bios) so not sure how it’s conflicting in your case? Unless you’re using Ind-Bios5003 (official) as that had a bug with its IGR code that would shutdown the Xbox if “White + Back” was pressed.
    1 point
  3. Why not buy an RF shield? Or I guess you could use HDMI if you wish. Yes, the HD+ does work very well. Stellar is pretty cool too. You will either need Nemesis' STM32 dev board to use the HD+ without the stellar, or buy the standalone kit from MM. I would TSOP flash with Cerbios, which is compatible with the HD+ anyway, but don't be scared to change it. You don't have to be. But if you wait for the Open XHD, that is an option as well, and you will not need to deal with standalone STM32 horsecrap. How does the CF work for you? Why not a SATA?
    1 point
  4. If you load the Cerbios BIOS in the Cerbios Tool, you should be able to change IGR settings Edit: I see you tried the Cerbios tool. Are you using the newest Cerbios BIOS file? Did you leave the fields blank or did you change the keys? Here is some info on the github IGR combos are now only set in bios using Cerbios Tool. They will be ignored if found inside the cerbios.ini file. IGR KEYS = A = 0, B = 1, X = 2, Y = 3, BLACK = 4, WHITE = 5, LEFT_TRIGGER = 6, RIGHT_TRIGGER = 7, DPAD_UP = 8, DPAD_DOWN = 9, DPAD_LEFT = A, DPAD_RIGHT = B, START = C, BACK = D, LEFT_THUMB = E, RIGHT_THUMB = F If I had to take a guess I would say you may be using an older BIOS that can get the IGR from the .ini file on the Xbox's C drive and you still have the IGR reset key combination in that .ini file. When you boot your Xbox nothing changes because the BIOS is still looking at the .ini file for the IGR combo. I would make sure you are using the newest Cerbios BIOS with the latest Cerbios tool. You could also check the .ini file on the Xbox
    1 point
  5. You can try adding some ferrite beads to your cables. I hear it's handy for HAM operators.
    1 point
  6. Yeah as bowl mentioned magnification (even if it’s just a glass lens), helping/third hand is helpful, and tweezers are a must. Easiest way starting out with a soldering iron for this is basically cleaning off the pads for the area and dry tacking one end while you have the component placed. That’ll hold it in place so the can the solder the other side as normal then hit the side you dry tacked as well. It’s quite easy once you’ve done a couple. The biggest impediment is that it’s small but magnification, steady hand, and a little patience will overcome this part. Best of luck!
    1 point
  7. My kit arrived today, and I'm using this same redux fan from noctua. The quality of the kit is amazing, and the support of Nemesis. Here in Brazil where I live the Xbox was reaching 62 celsius, now with kit installed, it's 52.
    1 point
  8. There is this StarTech adaptor that I believe has been used successfully in the XBOX: https://www.startech.com/en-au/hdd/pata2sata3 (This adapter can be plugged into the motherboard and a SATA data cable run to the drive) It uses a SunplusIT SPIF223A chip and only supports up to SATA I at 1.5Gbps (which is obviously far in excess of what the XBOX is capable of and it's unlikely that a modern SATA III drive wouldn't be backwards-compatible with SATA I) and up to 133Mbps for PATA (which is UDMA-6). Potentially also saves the hassle of an 80-wire IDE cable upgrade, but not sure how this adapter actually goes with UDMA-5 or UDMA-6 in the XBOX.
    1 point
  9. I just soldered a 100 ohm resistor to r4 and I'm getting no video out. I'm gonna remove it and see if that's the reason edit: it wasn't the resistor. on this particular board when I ground d0 I get no video out.
    0 points

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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