Leaderboard

Unless this is your work Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I have just had a version 1.0 with a orange light I got from the rubbish tip shop and it was a short under the pin header. So start with returning it back to a unmodded state and booting to at least the flubber. As for the rebuild PCB I have only ever fitted one and the rest went in the bin. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

You could try spraying some contact cleaner in the 3 switches and work them on and off about 10 or 15 times each, but to me it sounds like the solder joints on the other side of the switchboard need to be resoldered . Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Just bought a used 360 controller and synced it to windows using the esp8266

The main idea of flux it to help the solder flow. You should be able to solder the pin header in to a LPC without needing to use a fiber pen to clean anything( you only need to use that if you are cleaning the masking paint from a trace ) don't use the lead free solder it's harder to get a nice solder joint as it need more heat. The flux paste I use is in a syringe and I would apply about a pinhead or 2 per joint if any as applying more just makes more to clean up. You should really post a pic of your solder work and let us see what's happening. On the modchip did you link the BT point to ground (pin2) Use the alternative D0 point and link to ground or to pin 2 of the LPC port(the terminal just below the square one) It won't matter if the wire is squashed by the metal shield as thats ground as well. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Well, I received some stock and I tested my internal Relay Board v1 (which is 100% compatible with the standard OGX360 by Ryan Wendland). I'm pretty happy with the results and I'm excited to see where things go in future PCB design. OGXBOX.com Facebook group post: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ogxbox/permalink/2761570890780316/

Dave already said everything. Forgot to tell about that you could link it to the LPC as well. I read somewhere that the XBox is "well engineered" and that there is mainly just 1 ground piont at all which means, you could basicly solder D0 anyware you want. About the self made flux, use a syringeto fill it up, it will made things much easyer. I find the rosin + ipa stuff much better as that paste stuff you can get for around 4-5 bucks. If money don't matter get flux from Amtech. And here are two videos about flux : One and Two. Finaly the best part is you don't need to clean that up at the end (Yes you could and should but ....). Look at the Duke or S controlers. They have used rosin to solder them and the joints still looking awesome. And like Dave also wrote, show us a pic of your work. It can't be so bad that you must hide it. ;)

Yo, my names Boured, been into the OG XBOX for awhile as it's really the only XBOX I have a connection with as I grew up with it. Been in the XBOX Homebrew Discord for a bit so maybe some people here have seen me, though maybe not, maybe 1-2 people. Currently have a very modded console, TSOP'd and 128MB RAM upgraded, really enjoying it so far. So yeah, nice to meet you all, any questions are fine. I'll just be trying to join in the community.

I thought I'd chime in here as I also have a couple of boards with MCPX X2 chips on them (in my case with the full 128MB RAM on them) originally used in Sega Chihiro consoles. From the get-go they FRAGd until I applied heat to reflow the GPU, and now they light up solid green but display nothing. From what I can see, all non-retail boards *always* have the TSOP write enable points bridged, and have the LPC port populated as that is where the mediaboard is normally plugged into. I therefore strongly believe that this was also the case for your test board: I do not think a previous owner tried to flash it, it likely contains the Chihiro bios which does not display any video at all unless you have the mediaboard plugged in so that it can find "segaboot.xbe". I have been able to get them to boot from common Aladdin modchips (that are 256KB in size) by grounding D0 but only with a BIOS specifically designed to boot externally- and even then, it's not a debug BIOS, but a very early retail test BIOS from the recent source code leak. I think this is because how the address regions are hardcoded. I'm also struggling to find a modchip that has 1MB to fit a full debug BIOS that does not manipulate the code being passed to the Xbox LPC port. Xeniums will not work because they always expect to boot from an X3 MCPX, and therefore always respond from 2BL (completely skipping the required boot sector which would normally be overlayed by the Secret ROM on an X3) no matter what you flashed to it (the 2BL is hardedcoded in the Xenium and then it passes execution to the chosen BIOS, as it is designed to work in an X3). So matter what I flash to my Xenium to set up, even with 'fastboot', it always FRAGs once moved to the test boards. Try as I might, I cannot overwrite the original TSOP because I have no dashboard files that work with such an early retail BIOS. I am planning to do it the hard way by removing the TSOPs with a hot air station and flashing them manually with a PIC programmer in a socket. I just really hate doing it this way because the damn legs are so tiny and it's a nightmare getting them back on the board without getting solder bridges. If I do succeed in converting my boards this way, I'll write back.

Thanks for sharing!