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The flash.bin in the archive has Xenium OS v2.3.1 installed. The two Evolution-X BIOSes are the same even though named differently in the two banks - m8_16.bin. I've not checked to see if it's M8 or M8plus for a 1.6 console. From the filename, I'd say it's simply M8, not M8plus. Looking through the dump, it looks like the Xenium OS is based on on-time.com's RTTarget-32 v4.0 Core Real-time Operating System.

I run my stock fan at 35% and it's quiet enough. If your going to use a bigger fan get one with more blades or just stick with the stock one. I am sure MS tested a ship load of fan types before settling on the one in the Xbox. SS Dave Those who can Hard-Mod, Those who can't Soft-Mod.

i uploaded the Xenium OS v2.3.0 recovery.bin file in the root of the E drive. I then selected Recovery from the Xenium OS v2.3.1 main menu and answered Yes when prompted if I really wanted to go into recovery mode. I thought I'd killed it. The screen goes blank, the front panel LED color changes to amber, then it flashes amber a few times then starts Flashing Red and Green. FRAG I thought, damn! However, there is no green eject ring/console reset/green again/console reset/eject ring flashes red and green though of the normal hardware error FRAG. The multi-color LED on the Xenium changes colors several times and finally the console powers down. Upon reboot (powering the console on again), the new (well old) "Welcome to Xenium OS v2.3.0!" message is displayed before the main menu appears. This version of the Xenium OS also has -A printed at the end of the name of the first BIOS listed in the Launch Menu.

Here's the dump I made: flash.rar

Is it the fan that's making the noise. I have had hard disks make more noise than the fan.

Here sir

Started at 8:40, finished at 9:13 Step 1 - Remove RF shielding from underside of Case Top. Use a heat gun or hair dryer on the underside where the jewel sits above. Don't heat too long and move the air around, too much heat can warp or burn through the plastic. Once you have sufficiently warmed the bottom, the foam tape under the jewel will have softened. Use a prying tool or a thin flat head to pry up. Don't force it too much, you don't want to damage the edge of the jewel. Once you get the flat head under the jewel a little ways, lift the handle of the screwdriver upward so you are lifting the jewel with the shaft of the screw driver instead of the tip. Lift slowly, the tape is stretchy and will work itself free. The jewel can be fragile, you don't want to fracture or crack it. Step 2 - Use thermal paste remover to soften tape if needed.. On that hard rubber tape that some units have I had to re-apply and scrape off, I actually used the flat heat a little for that (carefully). The soft stuff you can just wipe with a rag. Just like when removing thermal paste the more moist the substrate, the more it penetrates what you are removing. I actually used that to completely get rid of all the green also by wiping over it.. BE CAREFUL IF USING - If you let the remover sit too long it can damage the plastic. When I did the jewel above, i had no issues, i did another yesterday and completely screwed it up. ALTERNATIVE - Sand it down, start with a little grit like 320 or so, if you can get the tape off by warming, peeling, goo gone or whatever, you can probably go right to 600 grit (can use an orbital here). Then do the wet sanding at 1000 grit, then 3000 grit. Step 3 - using Meguiars Headlight kit, I wet sanded using the 1000 grit (have used orbital also, but easy enough by hand). I did both sides of jewel, continuously adding water, then used the 3000 grit pad on both sides jewel. step 4, Use about a nickels worth of plastX cleanser and polish (to both sides) and buff with the drill wheel. Dry with microfiber cloth and ready for paint or leave as is if you want a clear jewel. The kit you can get on Amazon. It comes with the buffing wheel, 2 sanding pads, an the plastX solution.