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the method using a pin and a soldering iron that floats around the net is unsustainable.
i recently acquired a couple dead boards and one of them has samsung ram which my 1.2 had stolen from the bottom when i upgraded my 1.1 and ran out of new parts.
so i said screw it im gonna put the 2 i need on this board.
this is a way better homebrew than the pin.
i made a small 'puller' out of a very thin piece of wire (the type thats inside of cheap cheap twist ties you get for the garbage bags.
twisting the loop over top adds a subtle tension to keep hold of the chip. lots of flux applied to pins (not applied in this pic)
each end is bent over and tucked under the row of pins, use a small enough gauge wire you arent jamming it in.
heated slowly on low setting with a cheap heat gun (the econo brand heat gun)
then one good blast at high once warmed up and it pulled right off.
lots of movement of the gun and very delicate pressure when pulling.
they laid down on the other board with ease
tack the corner on X & Yaxis,
then line up pins and do another x & y. then just apply slight pressure with finger on chip and hit each pin with the iron.
the unit fired right up.
this solution originally came from removing a botched install.... removing i didnt want to accidentally scrape one of those small caps/resistors off. and i had already made a decision that hot air had to be the solution to removing these.
handling the chip becomes most important once the solder goes molten.
in a furious rush i harvested 2 ram chips off a working board, now id like to re-install these and get it working again because as far as i can remember this unit worked just fine prior.
the replacement ram came from a friend with a broken console. one chip had 2 twisted pins which laid down pretty nice with gentle persuasion.
now that they are installed (2 on the bottom) the unit will not power on?
power button does nothing, any ideas how ram affects the power process?
could this be a separate issue?
very interested to hear thoughts/theories.
the extent of my troubleshooting was testing a working consoles psu on this board which yielded identical results (power button does nothing, i can 'hear' the psu working there is a subtle discharge sound).
i have 1 more chip to try in place of the twisted one.
there are no bridges on the install and contact is made on each pad as far as continuity is concerned.
I recently completed and posted on a few Facebook groups a little project which I recently finished and one of your members recommend me come here and share it with you all, so here goes!
The whole thing started when I decided I wanted to build a PC into an Xbox. I've done a little bit of modding here and there in the past, but nothing to this extent. Sadly I didn't make a build log as I went along, but here is the finished product for you to enjoy!
Intel i5-7400 Processor running at 3.0 GHz
Zotac 4GB 1050 Ti Graphics Card
16GB DDR4 Crucial Memory running at 2400 MHz
MSi H110i PRO LGA1151 Mini-ITX Motherboard
250GB Samsung NVMe SSD
2TB Seagate Barracude Storage HDD
300w Game Max Power Supply
It's got a custom water cooled loop in there too, and boots to Windows desktop in 13 seconds!