kgm316 Posted August 14, 2021 Report Share Posted August 14, 2021 Hi I recently got back to the og after seeing the clock cap problem. I have a version 1.0 that has trace damage from the cap. It works boots fine and replaced the thermal paste on gpu & cpu with MX4. I dont think its a heating issue. When I play a game it shuts off. On the dash the temps seem to be at 45 degrees Celsius 1. I am looking to preseve this for the future, is it possible this is a capacitor replated problem ? 2. This is a list ive tried to piece together with information looking around. Will these be suitable? for version 1.0 and 1.4 versions https://au.element14.com/panasonic/eeufr0j152l/cap-1500-f-6-3v-20/dp/2760316 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/16zl1500mefc12-5x20/cap-1500-f-16v-20/dp/1144693 https://industrial.panasonic.com/sa/products/pt/aluminum-cap-lead/models/EEUFR1A681 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/25zl100mefc6-3x11/cap-100-f-25v-20/dp/1144697 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/25ml22mefc5x5/cap-22-f-25v-20/dp/8126402 https://au.element14.com/nichicon/uut1c470mcl1gs/cap-47-f-16v-radial-smd/dp/8823200 https://au.element14.com/nichicon/uwx1c100mcl1gb/cap-10-f-16v-radial-smd/dp/8823022?st=16v 10uf nichicon wx 3. Are the Tantalum Capacitor better than SMD? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983008282.html TANTALUM CAPACITOR, 10UF, 16V TANTALUM CAPACITOR, 47UF, 16V https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=78134 xbox ultimate solid-mod Really appreciate any replies, Kaos & SS Dave really know there stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 I wouldn't use tantalum capacitors to replace a standard electrolytic cap. If the product you are replacing caps in uses tantalum caps (the Xbox does not), then replace tantalums with another tantalum capacitor; otherwise, replace the bad capacitor with a similarly rated electrolytic cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 6 hours ago, kgm316 said: When I play a game it shuts off. Is the eject ring flashing orange and are the fans going full blast before it shuts off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 6 hours ago, kgm316 said: I have a version 1.0 that has trace damage from the cap. Trace damage can result in phantom power on and off anomalies. Did you clean the leaked electrolyte off of the top and bottom surfaces of the motherboard. The trace that carries the power signal from the front panel to the System Management Controller (PIC processor) on the motherboard that controls soft power on/off of the Xbox is the outermost of the four (4) thin traces that run along the front edge of the motherboard. The trace at the bottom of this image. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgm316 Posted August 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 15 hours ago, KaosEngineer said: Is the eject ring flashing orange and are the fans going full blast before it shuts off? I played last night and was going for over a hour playing a game. Then just turned off, it wasnt flashing and didnt hear the fans blasting. Ill check the fans later and see if they are working properly, I think maybe the gpu fan. I think the thermal paste takes a few days to settle as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 2 hours ago, kgm316 said: I played last night and was going for over a hour playing a game. Then just turned off, it wasnt flashing and didnt hear the fans blasting. It is till sounding like possible trace damage or it could be dry/cracked solder joints on the PSU, Can you post pic of the bottom of the power supply board and the main board top and bottom. If you use a pic sharing site ( I use Postimages.org ) and post the links you can then upload a high quality picture. I would replace the caps next to the heat sink with the Panasonic ones as they have a longer life.9000hrs at 105c ver 5000hr at 105c for the Rubycon 2 hours ago, kgm316 said: I think the thermal paste takes a few days to settle as well. There is no settle in time for the heatsink paste. 2 hours ago, kgm316 said: I think maybe the gpu fan Very unlikely to be a issue. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgm316 Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 (edited) 11 hours ago, SS_Dave said: It is till sounding like possible trace damage or it could be dry/cracked solder joints on the PSU, Can you post pic of the bottom of the power supply board and the main board top and bottom. If you use a pic sharing site ( I use Postimages.org ) and post the links you can then upload a high quality picture. I would replace the caps next to the heat sink with the Panasonic ones as they have a longer life.9000hrs at 105c ver 5000hr at 105c for the Rubycon There is no settle in time for the heatsink paste. Very unlikely to be a issue. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Hey mate thanks here's the link https://postimg.cc/gallery/9ChfQ4z I would of went the 9000 hours but was out of stock. I tried most long life stuff. Looks like the gpu fan is dead unless it cuts in at certain temp Edited August 16, 2021 by kgm316 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 If the GPU fan is not spinning it needs to be replaced or you can fit the GPU heatsink from the later versions (1.1 - 1.6) There is 3d printable bracket on Thingiverse to hold a new current fan on the 1.0 heat sink but if you can get a later heat sink go that way. https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=xbox+version+1.0+fan&type=things&sort=relevant The power supply thats in that Xbox is cheap non genuine unit and from memory there was a Sydney supplier selling them 10+ years ago for $29.95 and it also looks a bit suspect with all that heat damage and in my view you are better of replacing it with a genuine version 1.0-1.1 PSU. lastly in the pic of the bottom of the main board there is a area that is of interest The yellow arrow looks a bit like corrosion and the same for the yellow box or it could just be dirty. If you are not sure give the area in red a clean and post a new pic Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgm316 Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 8 hours ago, SS_Dave said: If the GPU fan is not spinning it needs to be replaced or you can fit the GPU heatsink from the later versions (1.1 - 1.6) There is 3d printable bracket on Thingiverse to hold a new current fan on the 1.0 heat sink but if you can get a later heat sink go that way. https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=xbox+version+1.0+fan&type=things&sort=relevant The power supply thats in that Xbox is cheap non genuine unit and from memory there was a Sydney supplier selling them 10+ years ago for $29.95 and it also looks a bit suspect with all that heat damage and in my view you are better of replacing it with a genuine version 1.0-1.1 PSU. lastly in the pic of the bottom of the main board there is a area that is of interest The yellow arrow looks a bit like corrosion and the same for the yellow box or it could just be dirty. If you are not sure give the area in red a clean and post a new pic Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Thanks mate, yeah 3 traces need doing, where the arrow is what trace does that control looks like its broken too. Yeah the power supply, was originally US. Thanks for having a look. Very appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 7 hours ago, kgm316 said: Thanks mate, yeah 3 traces need doing, where the arrow is what trace does that control looks like its broken too. Yeah the power supply, was originally US. Thanks for having a look. Very appreciated. The trace with the arrow is one of the game ports. The 3 along the front are power, Eject, Green led (I think). Do you still have the 110 volt supply? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgm316 Posted August 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Thank you, I fixed the traces and is responding well. The 110 v, I don't think so. Possibly thrown away, I bought the switchable power supply back then as I built a broken US console from llama.com parts. Cost me about $50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgm316 Posted August 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 On 8/15/2021 at 3:52 PM, KaosEngineer said: Trace damage can result in phantom power on and off anomalies. Did you clean the leaked electrolyte off of the top and bottom surfaces of the motherboard. The trace that carries the power signal from the front panel to the System Management Controller (PIC processor) on the motherboard that controls soft power on/off of the Xbox is the outermost of the four (4) thin traces that run along the front edge of the motherboard. The trace at the bottom of this image. Thanks for your help, you guys are all over this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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