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Similar Content
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By ttsgeb
This is going to start out as just being copied directly over from my thread on BitBuilt about the project.
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The xbox has some mildly odd power requirements. It uses the same 20 pin Molex MiniFit Jr connector that an ATX PSU output, however the pinout is completely different.
As it stands, the typical solution is to use a PicoPSU, a small ATX PSU, a modify it to work with the original xbox. PicoPSUs can be had for around $15, the power supplies for them can be had for around $10. It's a very inexpensive solution. Traditionally when this is done, the Power OK and Power On lines are ignored, the PSU is set to always on, and the wires are run all catywumpus to get to where they need to go. While this solution works, it's definitely a hack, and I believe we can do better.
So what are the xbox's actual power requirements?
While I haven't actually cut up a power supply and tried to get the xbox to full load while measuring the current draw, I have a V1.1 PSU here that handily has the power requirements right on the label.
Max Output Power: 96W
DC Output:
+5V -- 13.2A
+3.3V -- 4.8A
+12V --1.2A
+3VSB -- 0.045A
I hope it's safe to assume that further revisions of the xbox had similar or lower power draw. Regardless, this seems like a good starting point.
So, how do I plan to accomplish this?
With 4x LM2678 Regulators from Texas Instruments.
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Why 4 regulators for 3 voltages?
The LM2678 is a 5A regulator. I need 13.2A on the 5V line. Having looked at the specs for the PicoPSUs that seem to work just fine, they're rated for 8A on the 5V line. This leads me to believe that 10A should suffice, so I'll need two regulators for 5V.
I'll also need a 12V regulator, as I plan to run this off of an easily obtainable laptop power supply rather than needing to source an 8A 12V supply.
I will also be designing a smaller footprint alternative that runs off of 12v for when space is of the highest concern. I'll likely also break down the xbox's power requirements even further at some point to see if I can't design a PSU that allows for aggressive trimming, but that's much further down the road.
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I've designed the first iteration of the 24v board, it's 60*32mm. Now that it's done, I don't like it for a variety of reasons. I'm going to try again, putting the low profile components on the backside of the board and the tall components on the topside of it. Maybe I'll be able to squish it down a bit more in the process.
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There, that's a little better.
27.5*49.25 mm
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Oh, hey, I worked on this a bit.
I ditched the 12v regulator and changed it to 12v in. I also had to source different inductors, which are sadly larger, so the whole board got a couple of mm wider in the process.
26.5mm*57.2mm
I think I'm gonna actually order this one, and see if it works.
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I've since looked at the most recent revision and noticed a couple of flaws in it. I've repaired those flaws, and I'm gonna sleep on it again, look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow, and probably order it.
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By sweetdarkdestiny
Like the titel say...
Source: https://www.theverge.com/2020/5/21/21265995/xbox-source-code-leak-original-console-windows-3-5
Have a nice day guys.
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By Falcon639
Hi Guys
I'm getting this issue with my Enter the Matrix game(NTSC). I am using an NTSC-J 1.6 Xbox with an aladin mod chip running M8plus (EvoX).
I tried ripping Enter the Matrix to the console and when I play it, I get a black screen with a couple green dots. I then tried to run it straight from the Disc and get the exact same error. I then put the game in my 1.4 softmodded pal xbox and the game loads just fine.
Does anyone know why this is? I have attached an image of the blank screen with dots.
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48