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BigBoi73

Lo 1st Proper Post and Its a Biggy!

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k i have a 1.6 version xbox here

tested unit before trying and all was good

whilst fitting an aladdin chip and  doing the lpc rebuild do dar one of the pads on the mb has lifted

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using the above guide its the cable from the top right point on the header to the contact/point (this is the oine thats lifted) between r7t3 and c7t3

i think the track is damaged :(

i have removed all wires installed elsewhere and re assembled and unit now showing FRAG

is it fubared? or is there a way to fix/sort?

thank you in advance

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Hey, thanks for joining! 

It is most likely fixable. You should see some of the things I have accidentally done to a console and managed to recover from, these things happen :)

 

Ahh  I misspoke. r7T3 and C7T3 are clearly evident on the underside of the board; obvious, since you mentioned this happened during the lpc rebuild  

Please post a photo of the affected area if you can! This can help us to figure out what the extent of the damage is. 

It may be possible to re-run the trace if necessary, using something like a bit of speaker wire or spare IDE cable. 

Edited by Magicaldave
Misspoke regarding silkscreen

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Get yourself some kynar 30 awg wire to fix any traces. Have you left the pinheader attached, if so check for any solder bridges on the pinheader.

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First thing I would do, if you haven’t already, is just give it a nice break. In my experience battering your head against these things just makes it worse eventually. 

I see two locations that appear to be damaged. The uppermost pad at R8R1 looks to have almost completely been lifted. It doesn’t look to go anywhere so it may be supplying power directly to the other side of the board. Gently, push it down as far as you can and dab on some solder to try and hold it in place. This should at least get your electrical connection back. 

Next, directly above, or to the left, of C7T3, that pad is just gone. If you follow the trace on both ends, you should see small holes - vias - on both ends. Take a very very fine, sharp object, and scrape JUST A TEENY TINY bit to remove the solder mask and reveal the trace underneath. Be very careful when doing this as it’s easy to overdo it and take the whole trace. This way, you should be able to take some spare wire or as Ging3rguy mentioned regular kynar wire, and solder it into these holes. Try to tin the wires a bit beforehand as this tends to make them fit better. 

In general, it looks like the board is getting way too hot. Go a bit easier on it. You wanna melt the solder, not your board :P

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What type of solder are you using, if you use lead solder you will not need as much heat? Also use either a small chisel or conical tip on your soldering iron and plenty of flux.

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28 minutes ago, Ging3rguy said:

Get yourself a conductive ink pen to fix the trace and then see if it boots up.

Man I always forget about this. Easily the best way to do it! Fiddling around with an iron is a pain especially if you don’t need to do it. 

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Oh that board looks really burned. To much heat applied. That's also a reason why the pads got lifted. :(

Don't worry we all started somewhere :) . I suggests practice soldering on any other broken or unused boards first, web guides can't give the true experience.

You can also send me this 1.6 mainboard, I can probably still safe it!

 

 

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1 hour ago, Traace said:

Don't worry we all started somewhere :) . I suggests practice soldering on any other broken or unused boards first, web guides can't give the true experience.

This right here. I once lifted some pads on a 1.4’s TSOP and ended up destroying all of the pads for said chip out of frustration. 

That console works great now with a simple modchip install. 

There are few, if any, repairs that are impossible. It’s just not the case. Granted you may not be equipped to figure them out or do that fix yourself... doesn’t mean they can’t be done. 

On that subject I have some spare boards I can send out if anyone is willing to pay shipping costs for them :P I have gotten my practice out of them and stole the components I cared about having. Useless to me now. 

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6 hours ago, Traace said:

Oh that board looks really burned. To much heat applied. That's also a reason why the pads got lifted. :(

Noob here. For this kind of task, what's the "ideal" temperature or "range" temperature for a soldering iron ?

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4 hours ago, VoltXT7 said:

Noob here. For this kind of task, what's the "ideal" temperature or "range" temperature for a soldering iron ?

Sorta depends on your iron, but generally speaking, as low as you can go. Leaded solder should melt at 183C/361F. Two problems with this:

highly depends on your solder. Go as thin as possible, I use Please login or register to see this link.

Unless your iron is very expensive, it either isn’t adjustable at all or doesn’t adjust based on a specific temperature. E.G mine goes from 1-5, my solder melts just under number 3 but depending I will crank it all the way up. 

Please login or register to see this link. and Please login or register to see this link. braid will also make your life way easier. These are just what I like, so find what works for you. 

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3 hours ago, Magicaldave said:

Sorta depends on your iron, but generally speaking, as low as you can go. Leaded solder should melt at 183C/361F. Two problems with this:

highly depends on your solder. Go as thin as possible, I use Please login or register to see this link.

Unless your iron is very expensive, it either isn’t adjustable at all or doesn’t adjust based on a specific temperature. E.G mine goes from 1-5, my solder melts just under number 3 but depending I will crank it all the way up. 

Please login or register to see this link. and Please login or register to see this link. braid will also make your life way easier. These are just what I like, so find what works for you. 

Thanks for your answer.

I've got the leaded solder (0.8 & 0.5)

I've got the flux.

My soldering iron is temperature adjustable. I only used once to fix a couple of cold solder points on my Xbox Power Supply (V 1.0)

The temperature I used was 450F; according to you looks like it was a little too high. At the end, my Xbox Power Supply PCB did NOT look "burned" like the pictures above.

Edited by VoltXT7

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13 minutes ago, VoltXT7 said:

The temperature I used was 450F; according to you looks like it was a little too high. At the end, my Xbox Power Supply PCB did NOT look "burned" like the pictures above.

Hey, it’s temp adjustable for a reason, right? I usually go closer to 450 to heat the entire area better when desoldering. A lot of that “burned” look usually is just the solder itself as opposed to the actual board. 

As far as working on the power supply PCB, they’re constructed a little bit differently. Essentially, it’s just a breadboard specifically slotted for the installed components. So you’ll notice there’s no solder mask on top, and I don’t believe the PSU uses surface mount components at all. Ends up being a bit more durable for this reason. Happy modding, pal :)

Edited by Magicaldave

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Board Life Status


Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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