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Showing results for tags 'working'.
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Hi. I have 1.6 softmoded xbox, and some games wont run. Gunvalkyrie: have glitches on title screens, SEGA logo - just white screen, other logos smashed. Main menu works normal, but first cutscene broken. Black screen and the character falls behind textures and after that console just freeze. Burnout 3: console stuck on loading screen afrer the tutorial video Half_life 2: stuck on loading screen on 2% at the end of ravenholm chapter. I tryed replace HDD with new one, with chimp utility, change IDE flex cable, change regions, and nothing happens. Dashboard unleashX (xbmc4gamers same problem), videocable standart RCA Is this software problem or my console just broke? Please help me, I tried just play about like a month, and didn't finde a solution. Thanks in advance, and sorry for my english
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Hello friends. Guys, my game Call of Duty - Finest Hour stopped working. It just doesn't work anymore. I tried all possible versions, but nothing worked. I tried to change the region using the Original DASHBOARD, but that didn't work either. I believe all this happened after updating my CERBIOS to the current version 2.4.2. My XBOX is version 1.6 I'm using XBMC4Gamers. It is important to say that, in addition to all versions (J)(E)(U), I also converted to folder (default.xbe) and .CCI, however without success! I suspect the update, but since I hadn't played for a long time, even with the previous version of CERBIOS, I can't say if this was due to the update. Can anyone help?
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So I thought I was done with the 1.6 I recently fixed but it seems like there is only working audio after I reconnect the AV cable. I have tried component, composite and HDMI converter cable. All cables work with other consoles. So after a cold boot it has no audio, I reconnected the AV cable and the audio is working again... What could be causing this?
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I've got a Series X that has network issues. WiFi doesn't see any available networks, and LAN reports its connected even though cable is disconnected. I've tried factory reset, to keep it without power for some time, but I had no luck. I saw someone pointing that ethernet controller (RTL8111HM) could be the issue. Would replacing RTL8111HM help, does it affect both LAN and WiFi? Console is also stuck at 640x480, could it be that the same chip is the issue?
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I figure I'd share this with anyone that might be interested and I appreciate the help I received on here to fix my Xbox problem. I was searching a couple years ago for an arcade spinner that would work for games like tempest, arkanoid, and others on coin-ops 8. I couldn't find any that would work on the og Xbox, so I made one. This is how. Buy an ONN brand optical mouse at Walmart for about $8.00. next buy a GRS tsb-02 USB spinner off of Amazon for about $50.00. take the back plate off of the spinner by removing 3 tiny screws and remove the PCB and wiring out so you just have the physical spinner that has a tiny sprocket in the end. Place the sprocket end of the spinner onto the bottom of the mouse plugged into the Xbox (using a USB to Xbox adapter). Find the right spot on the bottom of the mouse so that when you spin the spinner, it moves the cursor on the screen in a horizontal direction and mark with a pen so you can put the spinner back in that exact location. Next, take the mouse in half ( screws) and carefully take the guts out. Drill three small holes through the bottom of the mouse and then attach the spinner to bottom of the mouse, where you made the pen marks, using the three tiny screws originally from the spinner plate you removed. Now, replace the guts back into the mouse and reassemble the mouse. Now you have a handheld spinner with both buttons working on the mouse for spinner games in coinops (and mame also I think). I left the top half of the mouse off and installed it in an xarcade tankstick so it would fit inside. It works perfectly, just need to adjust the sensitivity in the game settings sometimes. It's a little tricky to do, but well worth it because I could not find a spinner anywhere that would work for the og Xbox.
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Ive heard that a major part of the process is booting off of the hexen disc to get it set up. My disc drive is currently non-functional. How would I go about doing a TSOP flash with my Xbox in this state? is it possible? Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Hello everyone. Help please. Xbox 1.4, xblast tsop bios firmware. I can't flash cerbios. Freezes at the moment of the firmware.
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My 1.6 Halo edition that I put my Aladdin in is stable at 827MHZ. And shows it in XBMC and wherever else. My X3 console will work too, and I believe it's a 1.4. All my other consoles will not ackknowledge the overclock. They just ignore it and stay at 733. This is extremely annoying. I would like to overclock any console I want, but it's not behaving consistently, which is a problem I have not heard of. Does anybody know why XBOverclock would work for some consoles and not others? Edit: Let me be ridiculously specific since, again, it seems some people have a hard time understanding my English: Does anybody know why some consoles would continue to operate at stock speeds and ignore the overclock and why some will accept it and the overclock will actually take?
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All the maps work except for tombstone. It loads after countdown and then goes to black screen and then back to the halo 2 party screen.
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The game I’m talking about Is mech assault 2, halo 2, gta vice city etc games launch fine but audio cuts out and I only hear foot steps or driving or whatever when I die in mechassault 2 The camera just spins around consistently. no restart I don’t think it’s a bad rip at all. But I need yall help
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I have Xbox Crystal 1.6, with RGB connection I get a black screen,tried console with a two different cables, one is original and the other a working chinese cable, having other Xboxes and i found the problem in the console, it only works if connected with the AV cable the one with the 3 RCAs, is it possible to repair it?
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I picked up one of the Vader Intec controllers at a flea market the other day for $5. The tag said "untested" and I figured that it probably had issues. When I got home and plugged it in the lights on the pcb lit up like they were supposed to and the vibration switch would make the controller rumble (I'm not sure if its only supposed to rumble when things happen in the game but this was rumbling constantly when I flipped the switch) but none of the other buttons would work at all. The only thing any of them did was when I pushed the right trigger in the lights in the controller would dim a bit. Since it has a programming button I don't know if it just needs to be reset somehow or if it is actually damaged. Does anyone have any experience with these things and might have an idea on what the problem might be?
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Hey Everyone, I recently flashed Cerbios on my hard modded xbox via the OGXbox 2021 1.9.3 DVD. Now that Cerbios is on my xbox I'd like to use Xblast OS to flash the bios on my Xecutuer 2 chip with an updated version of Cerbios. Xblast OS is currently sitting in C drive as well as E:\\Apps\\Xblast\\xblast os.xbe. If I run the xbe file the screen goes black and the xbox eject ring starts to flash red and orange. Nothing happens for ten minutes. What am I missing? Starting to wonder if it's the Xbox High Definition AV Pack that I'm using to hook up my xbox to the TV. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Hi I bought a OGX360 from a guy in Western Canada I met on here a couple years ago and just got around to hooking it up. The controllers works with the wireless unit, on the two computers I tried it on, but when I connect the wireless unit to the OGXBOX I can connect the controller to it but all four lights blink on the controller and I can't do anything. It seems the OGX360 is not assigning ports to the controllers. Wondering if anyone knows what I should try to fix this?
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I recently got an xbox and had to replace the capacitors and remove the clock capacitor. Before this the console would flash orange led. There was minimal damage done by the clock capacitor. After replacing the xbox would turn on and i would move passed setting the clock. I tested a game and it was going well until i got a reconnect controller screen. I was unable to move passed the screen so I restarted. When it rebooted the controller was unresponsive. I disassembled the xbox and checked the daughter board that the ports are connected to. Cleaned it and reinstalled it. Booted up and the controller worked again. I moved past the clock screen and again controller life disappeared…. I can only get the controller to work after i reseat the daughter board and the power completely discharged from the board… What do you think the problem can be? I have tested multiple. OEM controllers, on three different working xboxes. None other have daughter boards so i cant swap to test atm.
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Does anyone have TR2/3 working on their Xbox? Both games crash at the "loading...." screen after selecting "New Game" for me If you have working copies can you link me, pretty please For anyone having the same issue, make sure you are using the LATEST xbe from the openlara github page. -
Hi, I created a dual BIOS using "X2 BIOS Manager v2.3" for my Xecuter 2.3b lite modchip. Bank 1 is Cerbios using UDMA5 and Bank 2 is Cromwell to allow recovery if I flash a dodgy BIOS in the future. Both banks work fine, Cerbios boots normally also. I've tried various flash programs (Xblast OS, Gentoox) on my OG Xbox itself, and get the same issue, Cerbios won't start Safe Mode, which as far as I know should use UDMA2, but I don't know what else it requires. Cerbios.ini is on C:\ and looks fine, it is in use when booting Cerbios normally, the dash list is correct. I want to make sure Cerbios Safe Mode works for an extra backup facility, and ideally want a backup bios bank, for if I upload a bios that the Xbox doesn't like in the future. Maybe a bit overly cautious I feel I'm 95% there, just don't know how Safe Mode works, and what it checks for. Thanks -
I softmodded a series of XBox OGs in a marathon week but discovered an issue with model v1.6 and dualboot not working. All versions below seemed to work ok. Anyone else have this issue? Thanks -
I am having some issues with a system I am working on hardmodding, and I'd like to save the system if possible. The issue: I have a 1.0 OG Xbox console where the controllers do not work History of this project: This console started off as a non-working console on Ebay that had never been opened. It had hard drive issues so would give an error code 8 on boot. I was able to install an aladdin mod chip, and throw in a new formatted drive an boot into xblast and gentoox to try to flash cerbios. Xblast did not recognize the mod chip, so I tried gentoox also. My controllers do not work in either dashboard. I have an original controller from ebay that was advertised as working, as well as a cheap 3rd party controller from amazon. I do not have another Xbox, so its possible neither controller works. What I have tried so far: All 4 controller ports (If that even works in those dashboards) re capping the motherboard replacing the daughter board (1.0) and controller ports checking traces for continuity near the clock capacitor (there was a bit of leakage but not really any damage), near the controller headers, and general spot checks My question is, what would you try next? I would really like to save this console, but I am running out of ideas on how to repair it. Any advice/insight/knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
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XBOX original dvd drive(sdg-605f) not working. Problem is with dvd drive capacitors. I dont know how to connect them. Please help me in understanding the capacitors connection. And 1 more thing is tht can I use other capacitos whose values are slightly c?
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I'm not sure what it's actually called (jewel?) but the LEDs that light up the ring around the eject button on my Xbox v1.0 doesn't work. I took the Xbox apart and tested the LEDs with my multimeter set on diode mode and the LEDs do light up (for those that might not know diode mode on a digital multi meter will usually provide enough power to light a LED). I then did a continuity test between the 3 legs on each of the LEDs to the connector pins on the back of the board and found not problems. I then powered up the board to test for voltage going to either of the LEDs and there is none., My guess is that corrosion damage from a bad clock capacitor (now removed) has caused an issue with the power traces going to the LEDs.. Is there a guide anywhere on fixing the trace(s) that provide power to the LEDs? or would it be easier to pick up power from somewhere else like from the leg of a voltage regulator or somewhere else? thanks
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I’m working on a cap list for each revision set that people could refer to in the forum. Here’s what I have so far. Wanted your opinions. Is this needed? Should I add links to caps on mouser and digikey or just list preferred brands and let people find their own via the info provided? Any mistakes or omissions? Compiled info from a few different sources. I haven’t double checked against a 1.0 board yet so that’s always possible. Rough draft. One thought I had was specifying Radial on the others since I specified SMD where applicable. Just so it was clear to those who might not know when looking for info. I also didn’t include the clock cap. Should I? Obviously for the 1.6/b but should I for the lower versions. Anyway, let me hear your thoughts or critiques. V1.0-1.1 Quantity Location Value Voltage Dimension 7 C5A4, C6A11, C6A12, C6A4, C6B4, C6B6, C6E2 10uf 16v 3x5.4mm SMD 1 C7B3 47uf 16v 6.3x5.4mm SMD 1 C5A3 680uf 16v 8x15mm 5 C1E1, C2E1, C2E2, C2E5, C3E2 (CPU Caps) 1500uf 6.3v 10x20mm 2 C1G1, C2F3 3300uf 10v 12.5x25mm 3 C7G1, C8F2, C8G1 1500uf 16v 12x20mm 6 C3B3, C3F6, C5F5, C5G1, C6G2, C6G6 100uf 25v 6x11mm 13 C1G3, C1G5, C2G2, C3F2, C3G4, C4G3, C4G6, C5F6, C6G1, C7B7, C7C3, C7G5, C8E4 22uf 25v 5x11mm
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Good night, I need help about the original Xbox Cromwell, my card is 1.6 and every time I start the Xromwell the screen is full of lines and the control stops working, I've tried changing the resolution to 480i and it still crashes I still don't know what it is. Could this be a BIOS issue? -
So I have a OEM component cable and a 3rd party. They both work but give me one same issue. The right audio channel wont work, so its just my left speaker. Its not my TV bc my PS2 and Wii component works flawlessly. I cleaned the av port with q tip and isopropyl 91. If I use my Chimeric HDMI adapter both speakers work but I think its still playing through the left audio channel only. Im tryna use component so I can avoid buying another hdmi splitter. My xbox is a 1.2 128mb ram openxenium running IND bios recapped not by me.
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AA on sub 1080p content only serves to degrade the visuals, IMO. Both the N64 and Wii have homebrew to disable various blur effects to great effect. Are there grumblings of anything similar for Xbox?
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48