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  1. Listing of materials tested: OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables All the combinations and configurations had tested. Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences ) Winner! Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall). Explanation The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented. The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc. But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric. Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing. I thinking pass all my life with monster x400. There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures. After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors). Now it is better than the monster component. And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do. But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce. I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher. Now with the good wall charger. It's a masterpiece. How setting this Winning combination. Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers. Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less. Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4. The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004. The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly. The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that. The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound. Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400. The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more. Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears. Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox. Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6) Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution. Audio Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape. Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up. Thanks SS_Dave for help.
  2. Hi folks, A friend pointed me in your direction, and I hope you can shed some light of this issue. I picked up an immaculate Xbox today, boxed, sealed manual, still had the plastic over the eject and power buttons, not a mark on the case I played some OutRun2 and Dead or Alive 3, no issues. I then decided to “stress test” and run a game for half an hour, and chose Halo 2, letting it sit in its promo/demo loop. After around 35 mins, the game froze. I ejected the disc, returned to the dash, and reloaded the disc … nothing. The green light around eject just flashes, but there’s no action from the drive other than 3 whirs then nothing. Tonight I took the console apart, and it’s immaculate inside. No leaks, no dust, no bulging caps, not even a spec of dust on the fan … I doubt this console has seen much use, which is what makes this issue even harder to understand. When I had the lid off the drive, I tried to load a game, OutRun2 … but the behaviour is the same for any disc. The lens moves to the top of the track and back 3 times, and each time it returns to its “home” position next to the disc spindle, the spindle tries to turn and moves, if it’s lucky, a centimetre or two. It does this 3 times, then nothing. I don’t get any disc read errors, because the disc doesn’t seem to spin up. The drive, like the rest of the system, is very clean but it just stopped working so suddenly. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. I don’t want to return this to CEX for them to scrap it, especially given it’s condition, so I want to try and save it. If the drive is toast, as I suspect it may well be, what are my options in terms of modding without a working disc drive? Thanks all. Edit: I have uploaded a video of the drive in action, here:
  3. G'day guys, Just a quick one, Today I aquired a Crystal XBOX, I was under the impression they were all 1.6 but after I soft mod'd its ID'ing it as a 1.4? From what I have read this may mean its actually a 1.5 as it was manufactured in 2004. So I know I need to pull the clock cap (which appears dead anyway) But I have opened her up and thankfully no damage to the board that I can see but its a different cap layout to the ones I have pulled before. Or is this actually a 1.6 and I can leave it be? So can you confirm its this cap I need to pull out? As you can see the board is totally filthy so tomorrow I intend on pulling the cap and giving it a good blow out Cheers.
  4. Hello everyone! This is my first post, so apologies if it’s formatted incorrectly. I’m currently having a tough time trying to diagnose what could be causing my Xbox to output a wobbly video signal as seen here. I’ve tried -swapping power supplies -replacing the 5 caps near the cpu -giving the board and console a deep clean I’m thinking maybe it’s a grounding issue? Or perhaps the video encoding chip is about to die? Honestly I’m at a loss. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you guys.
  5. My original xbox died 10 years ago and the drive has been sitting on the shelf ever since. I recently installed an Aladdin XT Plus2 chip in a 1.6 Xbox and I have hexen19 burned onto a DVD. How Do I replace the stock drive with the drive from my old u modded xbox? The reason I want to use the old drive is that I want to transfer my save files off of it then place a new drive in the xbox, if this isn't possible, is there another way to transfer my files off the old drive. The drive is a Seagate not a WD.
  6. Hi, New member here and will hopefully be a first time xbox owner soon A friend is sending me a mod'd xbox to add to my collection, I have never owned or done any mods to one before so lots of learning on the horizon for me. This seemed a good place to come for info and help if required so here I am! My friend has done a bios mod to it, removed the clock cap which I understand are suicidal on these and replaced the Drive band so that saves me some work He has advised that I need to get a Hexen disc which I believe I can download from here somewhere and after that I guess there's not much to do until it gets here and I can start tinkering One thing I would like to do and maybe you guys can point me in the right direction is change the main PSU. The reason being its a US console and I am in the UK, Obviously I can run it through a transformer to reduce it to 120v but I was thinking if I could find one it may be worthwhile swapping out the entire PSU for a 240v one. Is that possible? Anyways see you on the boards
  7. Greetings from Greece and congrats for the valuable info shared in this site. This is my first post here although I' ve been reading a lot of threads and have TSOP flashed - modded several XBOXes in the past. Generaly i upgrade hard drives by installing 5400 rmp WD green ones which work great. So my question is simple. Is it ok if I install an 7200rpm 3.5 inch HDD? My biggest concern is the higher temps those HDD generate and how this affects the other internal components of the box.
  8. I finally got around to removing the clock cap v1.2 board, though i would completely strip it down as it was half way in bits anyway, and give it a good clean out. Washed the plastics etc cleaned motherboard, fan, heatsink (Still need to apply new thermal paste) popped her back together after the plastics had dried and to my amasement it works. The cap was fine to be honest, no sign of any problems at all. I was quite supprised how clean it was to be honest, just a light bit of dust on the motherboard. Thanks allf or looking.
  9. Hi, So I have an old mod chipped Xbox. I threw in a 500 gb drive and have it setup, but the build is old and crappy. lol How would I go about updating the build? I've softmodded a bunch of systems with the JRocky 5 softmod but the TSOP/ Chipped systems I'm just learning now. The dashboard setup that hexen 2018 did I really dont like, I much prefer the JCRocky5 dashboard setup with emulators and games etc. showing on the first screen. Is there any way to set it up like this? Like I said I'm a noob with the modchip setups. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks Guys.
  10. Hey guys.... I just found my original Crystal modded xbox from years ago tucked away in a corner in the loft. Only thing is it has faulty Ethernet port. Is it easy to swap them out for a replacement? If so does anyone have a tut?? Otherwise i want to update the softmod that is in it..... I bought it already modded and it was supposed to be chipped but well i have opened it and there is deffo no modchip inside. Its also a 1.6 so no TSOP either so by process of elimination it has to be softmodded. My question is..... Am i safe to run Rocky5's softmod updater from the extras disc to update it? If so can i...(using a FATX formatted usb stick) copy the extracted extras disc to the E drive and run it from there as i cannot seem to get the DVD drive to read anything.... Oh yeah heres a quick vid of the old school XBMC dash it has on it
  11. MAMEoXtras 2.0 runs just fine but all the MAMEoXtras updated 2018/2019 just reboots my Xbox when executing the .xbe, tried deleting udata/tdata/cache, still the same, what could be the problem?, thanks for any clues.
  12. So i originally got my Xbox in 2004, i was 5 years old. iv'e kept it all these years, now a 19 year old college student. I've always been really into collecting for the original xbox. it's more fun to collect than the playstation 2 in my opinion. just recently i got around to modding my system, installing unleashx and personalizing it. i also took out the clock capacitor before it leaked. but now i'm looking into TSOP flashing it so i can put a 2tb drive in it. can anyone help me find the upgraded ide cables and the adapter for the drive? i can only find ones coming from china, and i much prefer U.S. based sellers. i'm gonna have to do a bit of soldering anyway, not just the TSOP but one of the caps by the CPU is bulging very very slightly. so, i'd do anything to keep my unit alive.

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