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Hi all. im currently using xbmc emustation on one of my soft modded xboxes. i want to add a bunch of Xbox titles but don’t want them all in one folder on dash carousel. is there anyway I can edit the carousel to have say three Xbox images and links for # - F, H- O, P- X for instance to make it easier to scroll through games I want? i know you can jump to a letter, but that’s no the way I’d prefer. any help would be appreciated. Cheers.

So I ordered a Pound HDMI Cable for my Xbox because my Sony Bravia 850h TV has NO COMPONENT hookups! I really don't mind low resolution when im OG Gaming, but the only TV in my house that has components is in my bedroom and that is not where everyone games. Unboxing the Pound HDMI Cable and hooking it up, I immediately had video drop outs every 5-15 seconds it didn't matter if it was dashboard, games, anything. I also had wavy lines. This was WITH the microusb plugged in and powered. Things i tried: 1) all different HDMI ports 2) different HDMI cables 3) microusb using powered adapter 4) microusb plugged into TV Nothing fixed it, so I recorded and sent my info to pound. Their customer service is top notch and they sent me a new cable. This is where things get interesting. New cable, FLAWLESS HD Video, no lines, nothing! Looks amazing on the dashboard, loaded up CoinOps8 PERFECT, then I started Fable and immediately got drop outs. UGH! I did a lot of testing and I believe the first cable was a hardware issue. The new cable I now believe it is an issue with Sony 4k TV's. The drop out does not occur on ANY 720p+ games: Soul Caliber 2, Nitro cart racing, Tony hawk Underground etc. I have tried EVERYTHING I can think of and am at my wits end. I wonder if Chimera or XBOX2HDMI will have the same issues on my TV. I am really thinking at this point the only real solution is the XBOXHD+ upgrade, but i was really hoping not to shell out 140$ as thats almost the cost of my entire mod, and I would like to keep the case as close to original as possible. Ideas/thoughts? Dashboard - NEW CABLE https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_V5lpQHS1kthf_ItQCE8xTvvxNZ-cJIR/view?usp=drivesdk Fable(not 720) NEW CABLE https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_GwN9ItYl2auE4bt9KUmFxkbBG712OYt/view?usp=drivesdk Tony hawk underground (720) NEW CABLE https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_SbNQVKtSctsCnHYc4cnUh4mq8cff8IS/view?usp=drivesdk

This is something I came up with to make reballing the interposers a little easier. Should fit most top sections of these reball jigs, might need slight massaging with a vile and/or sandpaper. this is for 1.6mm thickness pcbs, you could also fit pcbs in there that already have passives soldered onto them. incase you have to try and salvage a failed attempt at the mod. Xbox cpu interposer jig v5.stl

I believe I seen a Reddit post couple days ago by KaosEngineer touching on this topic the post was sometime back, I'm wondering if it's practical today to even attempt or even flash an pc optical drive. I am aware that you can of course get parts from other consoles.. I asked this out of curiosity as I lack the information and experience on the topic.

Hi guys. I have a Xbox 1.0 with cheapmod (LPC Based SST49LF020) (Bios: Xecuter2 4983.67) and after i won't turn on the console for 1 or 2 days i always end up with Error 07 HDD Timeout. I tried out with 3 HDDs and i always get the same results. The interesting thing is if i unplug the IDE Cable and plug it back it boots without a problem, but after 1-2 days it's starts to act up. Any idea?

I have a 1.6 revision board which shut down in the middle of using it. I have tested the PSU which is working correctly (have tried in another system also). I have traced the problem to this MOSFET - Q2F1 not outputting 5V.Can anyone guide me on a replacement? The numbers on it don't give me a good guide on an equivalent/compatible one.

So I have a 1.6 Xbox that I softmodded with UnleashX few years ago and it's been great. Last week I was playing it just fine, got tired and turned it off for the night. Couple days later it wouldn't boot up at all, id hit the power button and it would attempt to boot for like half second then turn off. Opened it up to see 5 capacitors bulging on the bottom right of the motherboard under the CPU/GPU area. So I ordered replacement caps and installed them and now I'm getting a FRAG with no video output. I've been trying to diagnose for few days. I've swapped out the power supply with known working 1.6 PSU, I've tried swapping back to my original HDD from before the softmod all to no help. I've checked voltages at PSU connector, my issue seems to be the inductor (L2F1) isn't getting the 1.7vdc it should be getting from researching on this site. I've checked the transistor next to the L2F1 and getting 5vdc on one side and 1.7vdc on the other. I've checked the transistor (Q7C2) and getting 3.3vdc at the collector. Any help would be appreciated as I'd hate to make it a parts xbox thanks. Edit: I mightve connected a older revision PSU (1.1-1.4v) without noticing in a attempt to rule out power supply. But have since checked two different 1.6v PSU with no effect.

Hi, I bought an upgraded xbox v1.0 board from Trusty years ago. It has 128mb ram and supposedly a 1ghz CPU yet in xbmc it only shows as 733 mhz. After searching for pictures of the original xbox CPU mine looks similar. Basically I want to know if this CPU is a standard xbox one or a different replacement one. Picture of my CPU:

My other post was in the wrong sub, here's a fresh one. Sorry about that. There's a pre-v1.6 Halo Edition that just went up on the Arizona ShopGoodwill, with the matching controller. I'm not bidding on it, figured I'd let people know. There was one a few months back that went for over $500 on there. The prices for stock xbox's on that site have skyrocketed since last year. Used to be no more than $40 for a parts unit. https://shopgoodwill.com/item/190290748 Sorry about that, I'm new to posting to the site, I'll be more careful. But to tell if its a v1.6 or not, if the A/V port is all plastic, its not a v1.6.

So I've been doing a bit of research to try and find out more about this OG Xbox Halo 2 Edition I have - it's a Ice Blue Halo 2 Release edition with the Black Xbox logo on the top "Black jewel" I beleive it's refered to. Some sites I have found (https://gamingdoc.org/) & (https://consolemods.org/) - list the serial numbers as both: 2NNNNNN 51805 , 2NNNNNN 50805 Are these internal board Serial Numbers? The xbox is still in it's plastic bag packaging so I'm not going to open it to check but on the stick externally - it has 4044117 51505 :SERIAL NO. & 241 4044117 51505 :PRODUCT ID Does anyone know anything more about this? Like can I confirm the unit I have is actually the Xbox Halo 2 Edition from Asia ? (PAL) I'm in Australia so it's likely from the Asian Market. Considering it's still in it's plastic bag sealed - Are these things considered rare still? Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide me with! I'll attach the photos I have in the next comment from my phone.

can I use bridge of power supply outside classic xbox 1.6 . how can I use it with jamma .

Edited by moderator: Originally posted in similar thread "Xbox 1.1 dead no power". Moved @nerdbombing's post to a new topic thread. I'm having a similar issue with a 1.6 I took the box completely apart to put it into another shell. The box had worked before, no issues, fully softmodded with an upgraded HDD. I wast just trying to put it into a nicer shell as the one it was in had a cracked corner. After putting it into the new shell, nothing turns on. I thought it may have been the front switch or PSU but I replaced both with known good ones. It simply doesn't react to the power buttons, nothing comes on, no lights, and my visual inspection didn't find anything. What's a good place to start diagnosis from here? (Ebay#2)

I've been having this issue for a while, and I am not sure where to write about it. I mentioned it in a post a few years ago, but now have more information but it makes the whole thing even more baffling. I am using an Original v1.4 Xbox (Halo Green Edition) There are a handful of games that my Xbox just refuses to play, period. Originally, the only games I knew didn't work properly were Stubbs the Zombie, Psy-Ops and Hulk: Ultimate Destruction. They both would freeze at specific spots during the game, Stubbs during the "Don't do drugs" and Psy-Ops the final battle. Stubbs example - https://youtu.be/hO2w5w1KKFs With Stubbs, I tried it on my Xbox 360 and it worked perfectly without issue. So, I thought it was just a bad eye, or DVD-Drive. Drive picture - https://i.imgur.com/sMV3iMj.png I recently modded my system so that I could play Back-ups and preserve my discs, and low and behold...... the same issue is still happening.. even when played off HD, and there are more games! For example, with Stubbs.. I tried from disc, dvd2drive to play it off the HD, I went and got another disc from a local retro GameStore, and even found a back-up online to try out... and all freeze up exactly at that spot. Now I am finding other games with the same issue. Hulk: Total Destruction friezes when you start the game. Gauntlet Seven Sorrows freezes up after a few minutes of starting the game proper, it seems to be related to certain music tracks, but don't quote me. Once again, I've tried playing it on Disc, off HD, and even going out of my way to try a back-up I found on the net (both burned to DVD, and from HD) and it's the same results. Yet it works fine in my Xbox 360...... Seven Sorrows HardDrive - https://youtu.be/sE_dQsfw-lc Seven Sorrows DVD - https://youtu.be/xj8nMN3cLFY Seven Sorrows 360 - https://youtu.be/RdiYtq0Atyc (Runs with no issue) I did remove a bad clock/time capacitor as recommended. I am using the StarTech IDE2SATA with a 2TB Crucial SSD. Hardmodded my system with an open xenium chip. Here are some internal shots https://i.imgur.com/aAJkDMl.png https://i.imgur.com/qtmAh2x.png https://i.imgur.com/JzQEk8R.png https://i.imgur.com/llRixDK.png https://i.imgur.com/3IWYJ2N.png https://i.imgur.com/2ohDFWG.png https://i.imgur.com/MO0rsR9.png https://i.imgur.com/cf0opZT.png https://i.imgur.com/1VZ4Mez.png The High Voltage Capacitor on the PSU seems to reflect silver when I use the flash, so here's a better look at it. https://i.imgur.com/cdnAVqD.png https://i.imgur.com/Bm4ybuf.png So I want to know what is going on? Other games work just fine, I played through Robocop (2003) on my Xbox just last week with no issue and a few other games. Why do these handful of games crash, is it a bad chip? capacitor? Has anyone found an issue like this? Thank you all in advance!

Can I get my OG ms dash back after installing xbmc? I get error 13 when I turn my Xbox on without pressing and holding the power button. I have the Aladdin chip and boots up into xbmc fine but I really like my old dash to work aswell. Is it possible? Thanks

Hello, my old xbox console has been having an issue when I plug it in. I think it's the cables that are the issue, where it does show part of the startup but the display is completely black and white. The audio still plays and the xbox is still powered on, and I'm wondering if I need to just throw it out or something.

This video is a quick way to dump your original Xbox eeprom directly from the motherboard with just a Raspberry Pi Pico. The code is written by myself in micropython and posted on Github. All you need is a soldering station and 24-30 gauge wire ( or a scrap usb cable you can cut up). This video is handy if you're trying to revive an old Xbox or unlock its HDD. The dump only takes a few seconds, and requires only 3 wires to be soldered from the Pico to the Xbox. Everything that you'll need: -Github Posting https://github.com/maxpower5544/Pico-ogxbox-eepromdumper -Raspberry Pi Pico https://amzn.to/47CXUfe -Solder Station Kit https://amzn.to/47CP3dB -26 Gauge Wire https://amzn.to/3vFO3Ir -Breadboard https://amzn.to/3tUOiyG

Hello Xbox friends, I'm about to buy a used Xbox controller but are these original Xbox Series Controllers to use on a PC Or buying just a Xbox 360 wireless controller (I believe it's uses Bluetooth like the Series and One controllers?) will suffice, so I can save money? \ Thank you in advance. God bless, Revelation 21:4

Hello Xbox friends. I plan to play Shenmues 1 to 3 (father of all open world games by Yu Suzuki and SEGA) on macOS and Windows and want to use a controller that's as close to the Dreamcast as possible (I understand the Xbox is popularly known as the spiritual successor of the Dreamcast with Microsoft collaborating on Windows CE on the Dreamcast), also I like that it's big and won't cramp my hands but will an Xbox 360 USB breakaway cable work with the Xbox "Duke" controller flawlessly? Do they have the same exact pinouts? Thank you in advance. God bless, Revelation 21:4

About a year ago I tried to install an Aladdin into my (working, at the time) 1.6 Xbox. Lo and behold, post installation, it doesn't work. I don't remember if it would just power on without the chip or if it wouldn't power on at all. I decided to take it out and now when I power it on it tries to boot 3x then I get red and green flashing 50/50 (it stays on and just keeps flashing). I took pics of the board post-modchip removal so you guys could see if the board is a goner. I must acknowledge my soldering skills were not quite up to par at the time. Here's the diagram I followed: Here's a full shot of the LPC rebuild: Close-up of the red trace: I'll post the rest in a reply because I'm out of space here.

This is a 1.0 Xbox that was found with a dead 110v PSU, most likely plugged into 220v. I swapped the PSU with a good one. When I press the power button I get rapid flashing green light, no fans, no boot, no FRAG. It had a leaky clock cap with some messed up resistors near the cap which were replaced from a doner board after cleaning the area, no change. Traces look ok. I swapped the 5 1500uf caps with new ones, no change. Power at the first N FET input is 5v when the power on button is pressed and around 1.8v on the output. I swapped the fet from a doner board, no change. Voltage on the two resistors near the yellow power button cable show 3.5v and drop to around 2.5v when pressing the power button. Not sure where to go from here...

When pressing the power button, nothing happens. Sometimes it would make the fan reach max speed 3 times and flash orange for a split second. Sometimes it would do something in between and slightly nudge the fan to spin and nothing more. I should mention my xbox has a modchip. Based off the information i have gathered from forums and reddit posts, this is what i know; - IDE cable and disc drive are not the cause of the problem, everything is disconnected from the motherboard - power button and eject button work - checked the board for corrosion, cleaned with iso. alchohol - fuse on power supply is good - checked voltages on power supply ATX connector (connected it to the motherboard, stuck the probes inside the connector where the wires go and pressed the power button. This probably isnt the way to do it i know). The standby and power on voltages match, but after a few seconds the drop back to zero (excluding the orange wires which do have standby voltage) because i presume the xbox doesnt boot - checked the transistor at Q7C2 and i am not getting a match for the voltages. 1.1v on the collector and 0.6 on the emitter. I might have read the values wrong, but the still dont reach what the are supposed to Not losing hope, open to all suggestions

i know you are focused on og xbox but i guessed you have knowledge on 360 modding i have a problem i was trying to start rgh 1.2 my fat falcon xbox 360 but i had a problem im using jr programmer and coolrunner rev c and jrunner with extra i didnt start soldering the coolrunner yet i only solder programmer and i got to read the nand with no error 2 times but after Writing glitch.ecc to Nand i got these errors Error: 000 writing block 17 Error: 000 writing block 21 Error: 000 writing block 40 Error: 000 writing block 4D what im doing wrong ? and if i use the picoflasher i get better results ? ps: i forgot to backup the nand im i done for ? if anyone curios here is my soldering wires

Good evening, I have a 1.6b xbox, it is currently softmodded (this was done about 12 years ago) and the disk drive died on me to the point where the xbox wont boot to the dashboard (error code 12), anyway I read that since this is a 1.6b motherboard a TSOP flash is out of the question. I purchased a open xenium mod chip and performed the installation. Currently when the xbox is powered off but plugged in the mod chip emits a bright white light. This is after rechecking my joints due to having a bright red light. Im not sure which one of those is good or not. Anyway when I attempt to turn on the console with just the power and video cables and fan plugged in, no controller port cables plugged into the mb and no hard drive/disk drive, the mod chip emits a slightly less intense red light and the LED on the front of the xbox starts of green then flashes orange, fan spins up, then everything goes back to a powered down state and the white light returns. This is when powering on with the eject button btw. If I take the chip off the pin header, the xbox boots to the splash screen then ofc does nothing because there is no hard drive or disk drive. edit: forgot to mention I took a multimeter in continuity mode and the pins and points on the board are all connected as they should be, and I do have a picture of the chip itself but it currently is failing to upload here, ill try to do what I can in that regard Any guidance would be appreciated, attached are some photos of my amateur soldering work.

Hi. I was just finishing a successful repair to a 1.0 with a bad psu. Replaced psu, replaced clock cap, flashed Aladdin with Cerbios, updated hdd. Everything was working fine, dashboards, games, etc. Closed up the case and as a final thought decided to increase fan speed using Xblast OS. Loaded Xblast, set fan speed, hit reboot and... Frag with Christmas lights! Any ideas?

HI my replacement fan does not wanna spin I upgraded the ram and that was it üduring the top onece it worked and on the bottom ones I did not notice it. It did never got too hot or something like that. I used diferent fan still nothing. and if no fan is connected it is 11 Volts